I am in the process of installing a ST 4000 autopilot on my 290. I'd like any input as to installation tips...dos and don'ts. Where to mount the fluxgate compass? Thank you in advance for the assistance.
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Paul Hitchcox
Thanks in advance
I know one response may be "check the archives", and I have, but I'd like to second Michael's question. I'm expecting arrival today of a 4000 and will install it in my 290 also. So anything more specific to 290's or its sister models would really be appreciated (especially the fluxgate compass location...). My thanks in advance.
I know one response may be "check the archives", and I have, but I'd like to second Michael's question. I'm expecting arrival today of a 4000 and will install it in my 290 also. So anything more specific to 290's or its sister models would really be appreciated (especially the fluxgate compass location...). My thanks in advance.
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Michael
Paul.....
Paul, I checked the archives as well...not a whole lot there except for posts making me question my decision. Hunter said to put the fluxgate in the starboard lazarete in the cockpit. That's ruled out on mine because that's where I put my A/C compressor. The best place I've found so far is right near the LP Gas solenoid on the side of the galley. I'm just trying to find a run for the cable from the fluxgate to the control unit which I'm putting on the pedestal in front of the integral drink holders. Michael S/V "Second Wind"
Paul, I checked the archives as well...not a whole lot there except for posts making me question my decision. Hunter said to put the fluxgate in the starboard lazarete in the cockpit. That's ruled out on mine because that's where I put my A/C compressor. The best place I've found so far is right near the LP Gas solenoid on the side of the galley. I'm just trying to find a run for the cable from the fluxgate to the control unit which I'm putting on the pedestal in front of the integral drink holders. Michael S/V "Second Wind"
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Dan
290 fluxgate compass
I have our fluxgate compass located in the storage area under the counter in the head. I'm not completely satisfied with that location, although it does seem to work. The autopilot works well in most instances, even up to 25 knots of wind with the boat balanced well. On the other hand, we have a shoal keel and a shorter rudder than the deeper keel boat would have. I think that in high wind conditions (gusts) that sometimes the boat is a little under ruddered. The autopilot is not the fastest in the world and it can get behind. I suspect that a rudder position transducer (an option) might help this. If I were to move the transducer (which I may) just to see if it can do better, I might try to locate it in the rear of the boat behind the stateroom somewhere. Not really many places on the centerline of a 290 that don't have a lot of metal around them. Getting the wire over to that side of the boat was a real challenge. Once we got a pull wire through we ran a few things that direction. By the way, you will need to drill a hole in the pedestal to install the autopilot (the motor will sit in this hole). Mark it carefully and drill large enough to get a small sanding drum inside, then enlarge slowly checking often. If you do it right the motor will fit tight and that eliminates the need for the bracket. Not sure how you would ever install that anyway and get the pedastal back on....and I did not want to try to remove the pedastal. Good luck. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije)
I have our fluxgate compass located in the storage area under the counter in the head. I'm not completely satisfied with that location, although it does seem to work. The autopilot works well in most instances, even up to 25 knots of wind with the boat balanced well. On the other hand, we have a shoal keel and a shorter rudder than the deeper keel boat would have. I think that in high wind conditions (gusts) that sometimes the boat is a little under ruddered. The autopilot is not the fastest in the world and it can get behind. I suspect that a rudder position transducer (an option) might help this. If I were to move the transducer (which I may) just to see if it can do better, I might try to locate it in the rear of the boat behind the stateroom somewhere. Not really many places on the centerline of a 290 that don't have a lot of metal around them. Getting the wire over to that side of the boat was a real challenge. Once we got a pull wire through we ran a few things that direction. By the way, you will need to drill a hole in the pedestal to install the autopilot (the motor will sit in this hole). Mark it carefully and drill large enough to get a small sanding drum inside, then enlarge slowly checking often. If you do it right the motor will fit tight and that eliminates the need for the bracket. Not sure how you would ever install that anyway and get the pedastal back on....and I did not want to try to remove the pedastal. Good luck. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije)
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Michael
Thanks Dan...see attached
I was thinking the same as far as locating the fluxgate in the head area but my A/C ducting runs under the cabinet in the head. Seriously considering the area near the LP gas solenoid. Seems to be most centrally located. Now all I need is to find a wire chase from that area to the pedestal. Yu have to drill the pedestal for the motor???? Oh this is going to be fun! New pedestal replacements can't be that expensive can they? Any idea what size hole cutter you used or did you go with the sabre saw. The guy in the next slip suggested lighting an M-80 in the pilot hole and running. I'm considering less noisy alternatives. THANKS HOW!!!
I was thinking the same as far as locating the fluxgate in the head area but my A/C ducting runs under the cabinet in the head. Seriously considering the area near the LP gas solenoid. Seems to be most centrally located. Now all I need is to find a wire chase from that area to the pedestal. Yu have to drill the pedestal for the motor???? Oh this is going to be fun! New pedestal replacements can't be that expensive can they? Any idea what size hole cutter you used or did you go with the sabre saw. The guy in the next slip suggested lighting an M-80 in the pilot hole and running. I'm considering less noisy alternatives. THANKS HOW!!!
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Dan Jonas
Hole
Michael, Cutting this hole is something you need to be most careful with. I driller the hole considerably smaller than final size, but large enough to fit a small drum sander into. I then sanded the edges getting gradually larger, and as I did so, I moved to larger sanding drums. Start by measuring the distance from the wheel centerline to the motor centerline. Mark this on the pedastal. You will find a little insert piece on the back of the pedastal that you will get the edge of when you drill the hole. Go slow and keep fitting things back together to check clearances. You want the motor tight so things don't bang around when the autopilot commands a turn. If the boat were closer, I would take a picture of it and post it here. In fact, maybe we can arrange to get something on here over the next few days. And you are right, you don't want to screw up the pedastal. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije)
Michael, Cutting this hole is something you need to be most careful with. I driller the hole considerably smaller than final size, but large enough to fit a small drum sander into. I then sanded the edges getting gradually larger, and as I did so, I moved to larger sanding drums. Start by measuring the distance from the wheel centerline to the motor centerline. Mark this on the pedastal. You will find a little insert piece on the back of the pedastal that you will get the edge of when you drill the hole. Go slow and keep fitting things back together to check clearances. You want the motor tight so things don't bang around when the autopilot commands a turn. If the boat were closer, I would take a picture of it and post it here. In fact, maybe we can arrange to get something on here over the next few days. And you are right, you don't want to screw up the pedastal. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije)
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Lee
Don't forget the special bracket
And don't forget to order the special bracket for the pedestal. The one that comes with the unit won't work on your boat and you will have the privilage of paying an additional $50.00 for it. I had to wait three weeks to special order mine from Raytheon so if you don't already have it, wait for it before your start drilling.
And don't forget to order the special bracket for the pedestal. The one that comes with the unit won't work on your boat and you will have the privilage of paying an additional $50.00 for it. I had to wait three weeks to special order mine from Raytheon so if you don't already have it, wait for it before your start drilling.
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Dan Jonas
Bracket
You only need the bracket if you don't get the motor mounted tight in the hole. The clearance between the back of the wheel autopilot and the pedastal is very close. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije)
You only need the bracket if you don't get the motor mounted tight in the hole. The clearance between the back of the wheel autopilot and the pedastal is very close. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije)
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Bruce Mulford
Don't spend the money on the bracket...
I installed the same autopilot on my H 29.5, and the pedestal setup is very similar. I used a 3/8" hex head bolt, and a nut and washer on the inside and outside. Works great and was 50 cents, not 50 dollars. You can't even see it once it's installed because of the close clearance. As for the hole for the motor, I bought the correct size hole saw for my drill, and measured several times before drilling. Don't forget to look at what is behind where the hole will be as the motor extends in quite a distance.
I installed the same autopilot on my H 29.5, and the pedestal setup is very similar. I used a 3/8" hex head bolt, and a nut and washer on the inside and outside. Works great and was 50 cents, not 50 dollars. You can't even see it once it's installed because of the close clearance. As for the hole for the motor, I bought the correct size hole saw for my drill, and measured several times before drilling. Don't forget to look at what is behind where the hole will be as the motor extends in quite a distance.
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Michael
Intimate with the interior! 3/8" hex?
Thanks guys for the great information on the ST 4000. I did end up running a dedicated power line for the unit...out the bottom left of the control panel at the nav station, removing the panel behind the cushion at the setee, past the battery,under floor panel, back under flooring of the head (now ready for some major Advil and a Can'n Morgan and Coke). This will get you to the run that will take you through the wire run under the stern berth. Just remove the starboard floor panel and the route is fairly clear. Thanks for the suggestion on the 3/8" hex bolt. That's a great idea and it looks like it will be a CLOSE fit. Since I'm basically a chicken at heart...how long was the bolt? Also any idea what size hole saw you used for the motor? I just about wore out my Dremel on the control unit at the top of the pedestal.
Thanks guys for the great information on the ST 4000. I did end up running a dedicated power line for the unit...out the bottom left of the control panel at the nav station, removing the panel behind the cushion at the setee, past the battery,under floor panel, back under flooring of the head (now ready for some major Advil and a Can'n Morgan and Coke). This will get you to the run that will take you through the wire run under the stern berth. Just remove the starboard floor panel and the route is fairly clear. Thanks for the suggestion on the 3/8" hex bolt. That's a great idea and it looks like it will be a CLOSE fit. Since I'm basically a chicken at heart...how long was the bolt? Also any idea what size hole saw you used for the motor? I just about wore out my Dremel on the control unit at the top of the pedestal.
M
Michael
Intimate with the interior! 3/8" hex???
Thanks guys for the great information on the ST 4000. I did end up running a dedicated power line for the unit...out the bottom left of the control panel at the nav station, removing the panel behind the cushion at the setee, past the battery,under floor panel, back under flooring of the head (now ready for some major Advil and a Can'n Morgan and Coke). This will get you to the run that will take you through the wire run under the stern berth. Just remove the starboard floor panel and the route is fairly clear. Thanks for the suggestion on the 3/8" hex bolt. That's a great idea and it looks like it will be a CLOSE fit. Since I'm basically a chicken at heart...how long was the bolt? Also any idea what size hole saw you used for the motor? I just about wore out my Dremel on the control unit at the top of the pedestal. I took a few pics of the wire run and as soon as I get them edited I'll post them.
Thanks guys for the great information on the ST 4000. I did end up running a dedicated power line for the unit...out the bottom left of the control panel at the nav station, removing the panel behind the cushion at the setee, past the battery,under floor panel, back under flooring of the head (now ready for some major Advil and a Can'n Morgan and Coke). This will get you to the run that will take you through the wire run under the stern berth. Just remove the starboard floor panel and the route is fairly clear. Thanks for the suggestion on the 3/8" hex bolt. That's a great idea and it looks like it will be a CLOSE fit. Since I'm basically a chicken at heart...how long was the bolt? Also any idea what size hole saw you used for the motor? I just about wore out my Dremel on the control unit at the top of the pedestal. I took a few pics of the wire run and as soon as I get them edited I'll post them.
M
Michael
Paul Hitchcox...Portland
Paul, if you'd like help on the ST 4000 installation on your 290 let me know. I have gotten mine installed and it works like a charm. I have pictures of the installation. If you'd like them let me know and I'll email them to you. They're too large for posting on here and I haven't figured out how to shrink them yet. Thanks to all that gave advice. The 3/8" bolt and nut worked GREAT!!!! $0.14 compared to $50 works out anytime!
Paul, if you'd like help on the ST 4000 installation on your 290 let me know. I have gotten mine installed and it works like a charm. I have pictures of the installation. If you'd like them let me know and I'll email them to you. They're too large for posting on here and I haven't figured out how to shrink them yet. Thanks to all that gave advice. The 3/8" bolt and nut worked GREAT!!!! $0.14 compared to $50 works out anytime!
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Paul Hitchcox
Michael
Thanks; I would appreciate the pictures; please send them to phitchcox@sacoriver.net. I'll catch up with the other replies; thanks for your offer.
Thanks; I would appreciate the pictures; please send them to phitchcox@sacoriver.net. I'll catch up with the other replies; thanks for your offer.
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Michael
Paul H #2 Hints on ST 4000
Paul, here's thew step by step. Photos to follow via email when I return from business trip. The fluxgate might be better mounted in the aft well on the starboard side of the aft berth...behind the thru hull for the head sink and the macerator. The run from the galley was a bit**. There are no metal parts in the well and the run of wire is short to the pedestal. Run the wire up through the arae where the holding tank and fuel tank are, over the headliner to the area where the light is. When the light is removed (lowered) you will have good (adequate) access to the tube for the wires to the pedestal. Use a fish tape to run the wiring. The power for the unit will be a run that is a little more difficult. Remove the floor panels from the bilge area and the starboard floor board (screwed to the hull. Also remove the cushions from the aft starboard section of the setee. The wire for power willl run out the lower left side behind the navstation panel, down behind the setee back, through the battery hold, along the flooring under the head to the rear panels under the aft berth. You can access all these areas easily. You'll need 30' of 2 wire 12 gage. Nothing like being intimately in touch with the guts of the boat! As far as the pedestal, the posts were right. Don't waste the $$$ on the adapter for the pedestal. I used a 2" 3/8" bolt, washer and lock washer instead...$0.42 vs. $50. It's a VERY tight fit but it can be done with a bit of swearing, a pint of Cap'n Morgan and a Dremel. The Dremel comes in handy with sanding drums for the control panel as well. The pedestal will have to be drilled out for the motor. Again, a pint o Cap'n may help with the nerve. I used a 1 3/4" hole drill and saw that was perfect. Just a bit smaller than needed but used the sanding drum on the Dremel to make it larger and fit snuggly. MEASURED 4 TIMES BEFORE CUTTING. Install the 3/8" bolt first so you have 2 refernce points to measure for the motor hole. The hole you'll cut is just below and right of that little white plastic panel on the pedestal. Hope this helps and you're not too far into the project.
Paul, here's thew step by step. Photos to follow via email when I return from business trip. The fluxgate might be better mounted in the aft well on the starboard side of the aft berth...behind the thru hull for the head sink and the macerator. The run from the galley was a bit**. There are no metal parts in the well and the run of wire is short to the pedestal. Run the wire up through the arae where the holding tank and fuel tank are, over the headliner to the area where the light is. When the light is removed (lowered) you will have good (adequate) access to the tube for the wires to the pedestal. Use a fish tape to run the wiring. The power for the unit will be a run that is a little more difficult. Remove the floor panels from the bilge area and the starboard floor board (screwed to the hull. Also remove the cushions from the aft starboard section of the setee. The wire for power willl run out the lower left side behind the navstation panel, down behind the setee back, through the battery hold, along the flooring under the head to the rear panels under the aft berth. You can access all these areas easily. You'll need 30' of 2 wire 12 gage. Nothing like being intimately in touch with the guts of the boat! As far as the pedestal, the posts were right. Don't waste the $$$ on the adapter for the pedestal. I used a 2" 3/8" bolt, washer and lock washer instead...$0.42 vs. $50. It's a VERY tight fit but it can be done with a bit of swearing, a pint of Cap'n Morgan and a Dremel. The Dremel comes in handy with sanding drums for the control panel as well. The pedestal will have to be drilled out for the motor. Again, a pint o Cap'n may help with the nerve. I used a 1 3/4" hole drill and saw that was perfect. Just a bit smaller than needed but used the sanding drum on the Dremel to make it larger and fit snuggly. MEASURED 4 TIMES BEFORE CUTTING. Install the 3/8" bolt first so you have 2 refernce points to measure for the motor hole. The hole you'll cut is just below and right of that little white plastic panel on the pedestal. Hope this helps and you're not too far into the project.
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Paul Hitchcox
Again, thanks.
All of you are great for helping me out; still a little chilly in Maine so I'm now well prepared once the weather warms. Again, thanks.
All of you are great for helping me out; still a little chilly in Maine so I'm now well prepared once the weather warms. Again, thanks.
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