SS replacement tiller for H26?

CHSN WND

CHSN WND

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Mar 24, 2013
115
Hunter 26 MN
Does anyone know where I might find a replacement for my original SS tiller? I noticed it had considerable "slop" when I test sailed the boat this weekend - I figured it might need new plastic rudder spacers. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the one of the bolt holes though the tiller is substantially stretched from round to oblong. It still might need new spacers but the main issue seems to be the damage to the tiller bolt hole(s).

Would like to stick with SS if possible... Thanks in advance for your help.
 
flynhi4u

flynhi4u

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Oct 28, 2013
678
Hunter 20 Lake Monroe
Tiller fix

If it is actually stainless you could take it to a fab shop and have them drill the holes oversize, install a stainless bushing and tig weld it in place. I have a shop that does my aircraft exhaust that could handle it. Probably be a 100 bucks or less.

Sam in IN, trying to figure out if it is September or July.
 
CHSN WND

CHSN WND

.
Mar 24, 2013
115
Hunter 26 MN
Re: Tiller fix

Learned that it's made from Al, not stainless...

The plastic gasket plates that fit between the rudder and tiller handle need to be replaced, since the tiller doesn't stay up unless tied. It looks like the PO may have made them himself, possibly from plastic stock that was too thin?? That could be how the hole drilled thru the tiller handle became enlarged - excess side-to-side movement would encourage that. Replacing the plastic gasket plates should help reduce tiller play, but perhaps not entirely fix it.

Since I like inexpensive solutions I'll start with the plastic gasket plates, then consider a replacement wooden tiller from the SBO store for $149 if the plates don't reduce the play enough. I could buy a replacement Al tiller but they want $249 for it - too expensive.
 
isaksp00

isaksp00

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Apr 27, 2010
1,240
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
Is there any way you could take a smaller diameter aluminum pipe, insert it into the tiller end and drill a smaller hole for the attachment bolt? Or, a welding shop may be able to weld in a patch to fill in the oblong holes, since that isn't a safety-critical spot.
 
CHSN WND

CHSN WND

.
Mar 24, 2013
115
Hunter 26 MN
isaksp00 said:
Is there any way you could take a smaller diameter aluminum pipe, insert it into the tiller end and drill a smaller hole for the attachment bolt? Or, a welding shop may be able to weld in a patch to fill in the oblong holes, since that isn't a safety-critical spot.
Click to expand
Good idea! Hadn't considered that, but it's definitely worth investigating. I'm hoping that replacing the plastic inserts will stop most of the side-to-side movement, and make it manageable.

Thanks!
 
T

timothy_c

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Sep 16, 2007
48
Hunter 23.5 lighthouse landing
Buy a wooden replacement you'll be a lot happier. I went through all the mentioned repairs and my aluminum tiller broke at the bolt location during a race with other boats in close proximity.
 
Fred

Fred

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Sep 27, 2008
503
Catalina 28 mkii 745 Ottawa, Ontario, CA
I'm quite sure that changing out the plastic spaces will solve most of your problems. I tried making my own but could not find the correct thickness material. I ended up purchasing replacements from SBO store. With shipping they ended up being quite pricey for what they are but they fit and my rudder works well. I have a wooden tiller and keep the oem aluminum tiller stored on the boat as a spare.
 
T

timothy_c

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Sep 16, 2007
48
Hunter 23.5 lighthouse landing
When I started sailing my 23.5 in '07 there were 3 others with the same problem in the marina, sloppy tiller handle to rudder attachments. Each owner tried different "fixes" but none were long lasting. Changing out the plastic spacers won't solve the problem. That area takes stress and eventually the threads on the bolt "waller out" the hole. That bolt needs to be replaced with a custom that has a smooth shank passing through the tube with threads only at end outside the rudder head plate. I had a machine shop patch the holes one year and it worked for a while. Manufacturing the custom bolt was MORE than I wanted to spend. The tube was weakened and the following year had them weld in a cross tube for the bolt. As I stated in my previous post it failed during a race. My boat headed up violently towards other boats as we were rounding a mark. I had to jam my boat pole into the rudder head and spent the rest of the day under motor limping back to the marina. All-in-all I spent $200.00ish for the repairs then more for the wooden replacement from this site. Trust me don,t waste time and $'s on fixing. Either replace the original with another and change out that damn bolt or buy the wooden. Personally I'm happier with the wooden one.

If I can find the time I'll gladly pull my entire rudder system out, disassemble it and post pictures. There are easy and inexpensive work-arounds for the common problems I've read about this rudder system.


Tim
H-23.5
S/V Psychotic Squirrel
KY Lake
 
isaksp00

isaksp00

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Apr 27, 2010
1,240
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
I have no experience with the aluminum tillers, as my H23 has a wooden tiller - I am happy with it, now that I sanded it down and cetol'ed it so it looks nice. If you go that way, and need a new bolt, get one with a nylon locking nut or else a bolt where you can drill a hole in the threaded end for a locking cotter pin. I had an "unlocked" nut come off while sailing; not a disaster as on the 23 at least the wood is somewhat held in by the rudder head, but best to avoid.
 
CHSN WND

CHSN WND

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Mar 24, 2013
115
Hunter 26 MN
It sounds like a new wooden tiller is my best option. It currently has a nylon locking nut on the bolt and I'll replace with another - thanks for that!
 
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