Our 2 year old head makes a terrible squeaking noise when we pump. Both on wet or dry. You can hear it from a block away! It's is also very hard to pump. This has been getting worse this season. This is factory installed by Hunter. It does work fine but the biceps are bulging!
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Ever hear the expression "squeaky wheel gets
the grease?" Your head is telling you it needs lubrication. A manual toilet consists of a piston (the part with the handle on it) inside a cylinder. The piston has rubber seals on it that rub against the cylinder wall when you pump it. Without lubrication, it creates dry friction that wears the rubber pump seals and o-rings and the cylinder wall. It's even worse in salt water because salt crystals scratch the cylinder. Heads come from the factory slathered with teflon grease...it lasts about two years. When it start squeaking, it's time to lubricate it again. Using it without lubricating it wears out the seals and gaskets very quickly, so it should be done as soon as it starts to squeak, or better yet every fall as preventive maintenance. You CAN buy lubricants that are just poured down the toilet (some people use a little vegetable or mineral oil), but they wash out very quickly...you have to do it about once a week. Taking the pump apart once a year to slather it with Sea Lube or SuperLube keeps it working smoothly and efficiently for at least a full season...plus, it keeps the seals, and valves from drying out which cuts down on the frequency of rebuilding. The best time to do it is to make it part of winterizing, so the teflon grease protects the seals, valves and o-ring from drying out and becoming brittle over the winter. And, taking it apart to lubricate it has the added advantage of providing an opportunity to inspect the pump seals and o-rings to see if they need replacing BEFORE they fail...doing it when the head is clean and dry is SO much nicer than doing it when the bowl is full and won't go down! Teflon grease is sold at all the boat stores as SeaLube or SuperLube. A liberal "dose" of it will keep your pump working smoothly for at least a year, maybe two.
the grease?" Your head is telling you it needs lubrication. A manual toilet consists of a piston (the part with the handle on it) inside a cylinder. The piston has rubber seals on it that rub against the cylinder wall when you pump it. Without lubrication, it creates dry friction that wears the rubber pump seals and o-rings and the cylinder wall. It's even worse in salt water because salt crystals scratch the cylinder. Heads come from the factory slathered with teflon grease...it lasts about two years. When it start squeaking, it's time to lubricate it again. Using it without lubricating it wears out the seals and gaskets very quickly, so it should be done as soon as it starts to squeak, or better yet every fall as preventive maintenance. You CAN buy lubricants that are just poured down the toilet (some people use a little vegetable or mineral oil), but they wash out very quickly...you have to do it about once a week. Taking the pump apart once a year to slather it with Sea Lube or SuperLube keeps it working smoothly and efficiently for at least a full season...plus, it keeps the seals, and valves from drying out which cuts down on the frequency of rebuilding. The best time to do it is to make it part of winterizing, so the teflon grease protects the seals, valves and o-ring from drying out and becoming brittle over the winter. And, taking it apart to lubricate it has the added advantage of providing an opportunity to inspect the pump seals and o-rings to see if they need replacing BEFORE they fail...doing it when the head is clean and dry is SO much nicer than doing it when the bowl is full and won't go down! Teflon grease is sold at all the boat stores as SeaLube or SuperLube. A liberal "dose" of it will keep your pump working smoothly for at least a year, maybe two.
Thanks, Peggy
Our toilet came without any instructions for maintenance, repairs, or use. You have been our ONLY source of information. Now we have to figure out HOW to get it apart (and back together
)
Our toilet came without any instructions for maintenance, repairs, or use. You have been our ONLY source of information. Now we have to figure out HOW to get it apart (and back together
)Thanks two , Peggy..
..I did it on my Jabsco one , and it stopped that squeaking noise , plus it moves up and down eassier.
..I did it on my Jabsco one , and it stopped that squeaking noise , plus it moves up and down eassier.
Call jabsco and get the owners manual for it...
It includes an exploded drawing that shows where all the parts go. I'd give you their phone number, but everything in my office except my computer is in boxes right now. You should be able to get it from their website at http://www.jabsco.com/toilidx.asp
It includes an exploded drawing that shows where all the parts go. I'd give you their phone number, but everything in my office except my computer is in boxes right now. You should be able to get it from their website at http://www.jabsco.com/toilidx.asp
Peggy-Does the bolt pattern fit
the Raritan Cricket? I have a H340 with a Jabsco pump head. Thanks, Wynn Ferrel
the Raritan Cricket? I have a H340 with a Jabsco pump head. Thanks, Wynn Ferrel
My experience with bolt patterns.
I have had 3 different heads in my H'31. Every one of them was different. There was alway at least one new hole to be drilled. I usually just use some Life Caulk to seal up the old hole. I always use caulk when reseating the new lag bolts. It would be just as easy to mix up a little epoxy and seal up the old holes too.
I have had 3 different heads in my H'31. Every one of them was different. There was alway at least one new hole to be drilled. I usually just use some Life Caulk to seal up the old hole. I always use caulk when reseating the new lag bolts. It would be just as easy to mix up a little epoxy and seal up the old holes too.
My experience with bolt patterns.
I have had 3 different heads in my H'31. Every one of them was different. There was alway at least one new hole to be drilled. I usually just use some Life Caulk to seal up the old hole. I always use caulk when reseating the new lag bolts. It would be just as easy to mix up a little epoxy and seal up the old holes too.
I have had 3 different heads in my H'31. Every one of them was different. There was alway at least one new hole to be drilled. I usually just use some Life Caulk to seal up the old hole. I always use caulk when reseating the new lag bolts. It would be just as easy to mix up a little epoxy and seal up the old holes too.
Nope, but new models of the same head rarely
match older model bolt holes either...designs change. It's not a big deal. Fill the holes, then cover with a nicely finished piece of 1/4" or 1/2" piece of teak or mahogany...screw it down, don't glue it down, and seal the edges with silicone sealant to keep moisture from getting under it. (I just answered this same question yesterday in another thread...)
match older model bolt holes either...designs change. It's not a big deal. Fill the holes, then cover with a nicely finished piece of 1/4" or 1/2" piece of teak or mahogany...screw it down, don't glue it down, and seal the edges with silicone sealant to keep moisture from getting under it. (I just answered this same question yesterday in another thread...)
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