Relatively new to sailing and count mainly on the old memory banks - but I thought there must be a spring pre-launch check list of maintenance and pre-launch activities somewhere on the world-wide web that I can print and keep in my boat binder for reference. I've seen safety equipment lists and such, but I'm interested in a spring tune-up, maintenance, pre-launch check list so I can rest easy once I've completed everything that applies to my boat and she is in the water on her mooring bouy. Any thoughts? Thanks
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Spring Pre-launch
The checklist is also available at http://www.BoatUS.com/freebies. BEFORE YOU LAUNCH: __ Inspect and lubricate seacocks. Hoses and hose clamps should be inspected and replaced as necessary. __ Replace deteriorated zincs. __ Inspect prop(s) for dings, pitting and distortion. Make sure cotter pins are secure. Grip the prop and try moving the shaft – if it’s loose, the cutlass bearing may need to be replaced. __ Check to make sure the rudderstock hasn’t been bent. __ Inspect the hull for blisters, distortions and stress cracks. __ Make sure your engine intake sea strainer is free of corrosion and properly secured. __ Check the engine shaft and rudder stuffing boxes for looseness. After the boat is launched, be sure to check these as well as through-hulls for leaks. __ Use a hose to check for deck leaks at ports and hatches. Renew caulk or gaskets as necessary. __ If equipped, ensure that stern drain plug is installed. OUTDRIVES and OUTBOARD ENGINES: __ Inspect rubber outdrive bellows for cracked, dried and/or deteriorated spots (look especially in the folds), and replace if suspect. __ Check power steering and power trim oil levels. Replace worn-out zincs. __ Inspect outer jacket of control cables. Cracks or swelling indicate corrosion and mean that the cable has to be replaced. ENGINES AND FUEL SYSTEMS: __ Inspect fuel lines, including fill and vent hoses, for softness, brittleness or cracking. Check all joints for leaks and make sure all lines are well supported with non-combustible clips or straps with smooth edges. __ Inspect fuel tanks, fuel pumps and filters for leaks. Clamps should be snug and free of rust. Clean fuel filters. __ Inspect cooling hoses and fittings for stiffness, rot, leaks and/or cracking. Make sure they fit snugly and are double-clamped. __ Every few years, remove and inspect exhaust manifold for corrosion. __ Clean and tighten electrical connections, especially both ends of battery cables. Wire-brush battery terminals and fill cells with distilled water. __ Inspect bilge blower hose for leaks. SAILBOAT RIGGING: __ Inspect fittings for cracks and rust. Inspect wire halyards and running backstays for “fishhooks” and rust. __ Remove tape on turnbuckles and lubricate threads, preferably with Teflon. Replace old tape with fresh tape. __ Recaulk through-deck chainplates as necessary (generally, once a decade). TRAILERS: __ Inspect tire treads and sidewalls for cracks or lack of tread and replace as necessary. Check air pressure. Don’t forget the spare! __ Inspect bearings and repack as necessary. __ Test tail and back-up lights. Test winch to make sure it’s working properly. __ Inspect trailer frame for rust. Sand and paint to prevent further deterioration. MISCELLANEOUS: __ Check expiration dates on flares and fire extinguishers. __ Check stove and remote tanks for loose fittings and leaking hoses. __ Inspect bilge pump and float switch to make sure it’s working properly. __ Inspect dock and anchor lines for chafing. __ Update or replace old charts, waterway guides. __ Check shore power cable connections for burns, which indicates the cable needs to be replaced. __ Make sure your boating license and/or registration is up to date. Don’t forget your trailer tags. __ Review your boat insurance policy and update coverage if needed. Be sure you have fuel spill insurance coverage. __ Make sure you have a properly sized and wearable life jackets in good condition for each passenger, including kids and pets.
The checklist is also available at http://www.BoatUS.com/freebies. BEFORE YOU LAUNCH: __ Inspect and lubricate seacocks. Hoses and hose clamps should be inspected and replaced as necessary. __ Replace deteriorated zincs. __ Inspect prop(s) for dings, pitting and distortion. Make sure cotter pins are secure. Grip the prop and try moving the shaft – if it’s loose, the cutlass bearing may need to be replaced. __ Check to make sure the rudderstock hasn’t been bent. __ Inspect the hull for blisters, distortions and stress cracks. __ Make sure your engine intake sea strainer is free of corrosion and properly secured. __ Check the engine shaft and rudder stuffing boxes for looseness. After the boat is launched, be sure to check these as well as through-hulls for leaks. __ Use a hose to check for deck leaks at ports and hatches. Renew caulk or gaskets as necessary. __ If equipped, ensure that stern drain plug is installed. OUTDRIVES and OUTBOARD ENGINES: __ Inspect rubber outdrive bellows for cracked, dried and/or deteriorated spots (look especially in the folds), and replace if suspect. __ Check power steering and power trim oil levels. Replace worn-out zincs. __ Inspect outer jacket of control cables. Cracks or swelling indicate corrosion and mean that the cable has to be replaced. ENGINES AND FUEL SYSTEMS: __ Inspect fuel lines, including fill and vent hoses, for softness, brittleness or cracking. Check all joints for leaks and make sure all lines are well supported with non-combustible clips or straps with smooth edges. __ Inspect fuel tanks, fuel pumps and filters for leaks. Clamps should be snug and free of rust. Clean fuel filters. __ Inspect cooling hoses and fittings for stiffness, rot, leaks and/or cracking. Make sure they fit snugly and are double-clamped. __ Every few years, remove and inspect exhaust manifold for corrosion. __ Clean and tighten electrical connections, especially both ends of battery cables. Wire-brush battery terminals and fill cells with distilled water. __ Inspect bilge blower hose for leaks. SAILBOAT RIGGING: __ Inspect fittings for cracks and rust. Inspect wire halyards and running backstays for “fishhooks” and rust. __ Remove tape on turnbuckles and lubricate threads, preferably with Teflon. Replace old tape with fresh tape. __ Recaulk through-deck chainplates as necessary (generally, once a decade). TRAILERS: __ Inspect tire treads and sidewalls for cracks or lack of tread and replace as necessary. Check air pressure. Don’t forget the spare! __ Inspect bearings and repack as necessary. __ Test tail and back-up lights. Test winch to make sure it’s working properly. __ Inspect trailer frame for rust. Sand and paint to prevent further deterioration. MISCELLANEOUS: __ Check expiration dates on flares and fire extinguishers. __ Check stove and remote tanks for loose fittings and leaking hoses. __ Inspect bilge pump and float switch to make sure it’s working properly. __ Inspect dock and anchor lines for chafing. __ Update or replace old charts, waterway guides. __ Check shore power cable connections for burns, which indicates the cable needs to be replaced. __ Make sure your boating license and/or registration is up to date. Don’t forget your trailer tags. __ Review your boat insurance policy and update coverage if needed. Be sure you have fuel spill insurance coverage. __ Make sure you have a properly sized and wearable life jackets in good condition for each passenger, including kids and pets.
Add these to the list...
Faulty or failed electrical wiring or connections are the leading cause of boat fires. So check all your wiring and electrical connections...and your fuel lines and connections. Charge your batteries and make sure EVERYthing works...replace fuses as necessary...replace any frayed or corroded wiring or switches...any hoses that show signs of chafe. If you haven’t done it in at least two years, change every impeller—in the electric toilet, the macerator, the engine intakes--on the boat, even if it looks fine. Each time an impeller pump starts up, it runs dry at least briefly which wears down the edges of the vanes. Unless it’s run dry long enough to really fry it, you can’t see the wear, and there’s only about the width of a human hair between an impeller that still fits tightly enough in the housing to pump water and one that can't pump any at all. If you have access to water, now's a great time to really CLEAN your bilge, sumps and chain locker--while the boat's out of the water and can really dry out. You won't smell them now, but there are a lot of odor-causing “critters” growing in all those places, ,just waiting to multiply and STINK when the weather get hot If you haven't rebuilt your toilet in at least 5 years, now's the time to do it--while it's clean and dry. Preventive maintenance--new seals, gaskets, valves, etc--reduce the odds of having to make repairs by 99%. Whether you rebuild or not, lubricate your manual toilet: open the pump and give it a liberal slathering with SuperLube—the same thick teflon grease that was in it when it left the factory. Not only will it keep your toilet pumping smoothly for a full season, but it will protect the seals and pump housing from grit and dirt. Check all vent lines--on fuel, water and holding tanks--for obstructions and clean them out if necessary. Recommission the fresh water system.
Faulty or failed electrical wiring or connections are the leading cause of boat fires. So check all your wiring and electrical connections...and your fuel lines and connections. Charge your batteries and make sure EVERYthing works...replace fuses as necessary...replace any frayed or corroded wiring or switches...any hoses that show signs of chafe. If you haven’t done it in at least two years, change every impeller—in the electric toilet, the macerator, the engine intakes--on the boat, even if it looks fine. Each time an impeller pump starts up, it runs dry at least briefly which wears down the edges of the vanes. Unless it’s run dry long enough to really fry it, you can’t see the wear, and there’s only about the width of a human hair between an impeller that still fits tightly enough in the housing to pump water and one that can't pump any at all. If you have access to water, now's a great time to really CLEAN your bilge, sumps and chain locker--while the boat's out of the water and can really dry out. You won't smell them now, but there are a lot of odor-causing “critters” growing in all those places, ,just waiting to multiply and STINK when the weather get hot If you haven't rebuilt your toilet in at least 5 years, now's the time to do it--while it's clean and dry. Preventive maintenance--new seals, gaskets, valves, etc--reduce the odds of having to make repairs by 99%. Whether you rebuild or not, lubricate your manual toilet: open the pump and give it a liberal slathering with SuperLube—the same thick teflon grease that was in it when it left the factory. Not only will it keep your toilet pumping smoothly for a full season, but it will protect the seals and pump housing from grit and dirt. Check all vent lines--on fuel, water and holding tanks--for obstructions and clean them out if necessary. Recommission the fresh water system.
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