Here's a graphical analysis of a 525, using 'brochure' drawings.
First off, the 10-12° lines drawn from the tack will be the approx. sheeting angle for pointing with the jib in ~10kts., more open angle as the wind goes higher .... keeping the clew to these angles will result in the approximate best 'slot open' distance, hence pointing ability.
You'll also see immediately that the chainplate connection point is well outboard of the 10-12° line, also see that the 'aqua' on the profile sketch (looking at a jib in frontal profile) is also within the line directly from the chainplate to the mast (no spreader!)
What this means is that for pointing optimization that you cant carry a jib larger than about 105-110°; and, if any larger LP jib is used, the leech has to be cut with a large amount of 'hollow' so that it clears the spreader. Not to worry as a large LP genoa isnt going to be that effective in pointing, especially if its clew is outside that 10-12° line.
For racing, this means if you want to dominate the other two 525s in your fleet, youll have to change/peel to a larger genoa for downwind ... or simply fly a spinnaker if the local rules allow (for simplicity, a 'free flying', Ronstan type, spinnaker furler @ a cost of ~$300 would be 'the cats meow for downwind sailing).
For racing and for peeling/changing, Id opt for a dual groove 'tuff-luff'. A 'furler' would severely reduce the exposed luff area as well as %LP to 'fit'; but, if the other 2 boats are carrying their clew outboard of the 10-12° line they wont be able to point either, so a furler with genoa and a large %LP reduced so that the leech 'just hits' the spreader may still be a strategic advantage.
Since the shroud chainplate to mast line, even without a spreader, is well outside of that 10-12° line,
sweeping the spreader further back or shortening the spreaders will not be of signficant value. .... using a smaller full hoist,
deck sweeper, ~105±% LP is what is going to make this boat 'point' like a banshee.
Youll need both a pull-in barberhauler and an pull-out barberhauler to get the 'slot distance' correct (or secondary genoa track
with a bridle between the secondary and primary genoa track). How to set: get the boat maximized for shape and trim with all tell tales flying perfectly, then slowly pull IN on the barberhauler while you watch the speedo (or better VMG on a GPS) for max. speed, then slightly ease. Totally ignore 'backwinding' when doing this barberhauler adjustment. When winds are 12+kts. then pull the barberhauler out while looking for max. speed. Once you get max. speed via best 'slot open adjustment' then you can slightly cup-up the leech on the mainsail a wee bit to help get the keel to lift and to POWER 'point' when needed. Setting the correct 'slot distance' will enhance the aerodynamic flow over 'both' sails.
For best course/leg to weather mark, do *search* for 'turbo sailing' on this forum.
http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=806425&highlight=turbo sailing - post #12
hope this helps. ;-)
BTW ... if thats your boat in the first 2 pics of the the above URL you posted .....
your boom aft end is drooping into the cockpit .... meaning that the mainsail isnt properly 'raised'. Go to:
http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=120970 to find out how to properly raise a dacron mainsail ... and set proper helm pressure at the same time.