Split backstay conversion for Cat22

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Ross Hendricks

I have a 1989 catalina 22, hull # 15023 and want to add a split backstay. I believe there is a steel plate embedded in in the fiberglass of the transom on the port side into which you can drill and tap a hole for a second backstay tang. Can anyone confirm this? (there is no room to get a nut under there.)
 
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Bayard Gross

C-22 Split Backstay Adjuster

Been there, done that On my C-22 #9911 there is that wonderful bronze (although I think it is brass) plate just under the fiberglass on the top edge of the transom. I can almost guarantee you beyond doubt that you have this plate as well as your hull number is higher than mine. Therefore, to install an eye for a backstay adjuster, you will need to tap into this bronze (brass) plate and then screw in the eye, assuming you use the kit from Catalina Direct that has this eye. Now for some items you will need to know. First, you should find the appropriate position for the eye that is just the opposite of the current eye holding your backstay. Start by drilling a small 1/8-inch diameter hole. Next, you will need to go to Home depot and get a special sized drill bit for making a hole for a one-half inch tap. The size is something like 27/64 or something; my memory is weak here. As this bit is larger than 3/8’s and as I do not think that this size bit is made with a reduced 3/8-inch shank, you need a half-inch drill. If you need to purchase one, do not fret, as it is better than a 3/8 inch drill for mixing up heavy anti-fouling paint with one of those special mixing bits. Get something like the Skill half-inch drill with its curved end and handle as opposed to the Black and Decker half-inch drill with its straight and bulky back end. The reason for this is the Skill Drill will fit under the aft pulpit (if you have one) while the Black and Decker will not or barely will at best. Been there, done that. You will also need to purchase a one-half inch tap and, unfortunately, the larger tap handle, as the smaller one can only accommodate up to about ¼ inch taps. Yea, that is right, this job is suddenly getting expensive. Also, get some Three In One oil or some light honing oil to use as tapping oil. Now you get to go down to your local West Marine and get about four half inch stainless steel washers and some sealant, either Silicone or 5200, or whatever you like to use, unless, of course, Catalina Direct supplied some for you in their kit. Thusly, as you have now blown your boat budget to smithereens, you can head back to your vessel and get to work. Alternatively, you can just use the new half-inch drill for some lobotomy, as your wife will probably wish when she sees the Home Depot and West Marine bills. Using the small 1/8-inch hole as a guide, drill out the respective hole to be tapped. Then taking your brand new tap handle and tap, proceed to slowly tap out the hole using enough oil to work smoothly. The bronze (brass) plate is relatively soft, so it should tap easily without too much oil. Next, screw in the eye until it bottoms and then back it off to align it the same way as the starboard eye. There should now be some space between the flat bottom of the eye and the fiberglass transom. This is where the half-inch washers come into play. Determine how many washers you will need to insert in between the eye and the fiberglass to provide a good steady base for the eye. Then test fit the eye and washers to see if everything aligns properly and add or subtract washers as necessary. Then disassemble, and coat everything in sealant and reassemble. From here, there is the new backstay, split wire, wire block, and twelve to one blocks set up which can be performed relatively easily assuming you have lowered the mast.
 
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Ted

Not sure, but . . .

use an electronic stud finder to see if you can locate metal (i. e. dense material) in that area. I added a backstay to my boat, but it is a 1982 model, and I cannot remember if I hit metal or not. There is no stainless steel of any significance in that area, because I would have remembered drilling through that (and I don't). There is practically no way you can sneak a nut up in the space within the transom to secure the eye bolt. I finally drilled a 2" access hole on the cockpit side of the transom to get access to the area. Once everything was installed and secured, I patched up the hole and applied gelcoat to the area. You can't even tell there was a hole there. Regards, Ted
 
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Ross Hendricks

Thanks

Thanks for all the detailed info. I have the tools, so putting it in should be a snap. Ross
 
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