The rudder on my '95 H26 splintered when it dropped while launching. The bottom of the rudder is chewed up, the crack or splinter runs up the spine of the rudder. Is their a product I can purchase to solidify the splintering (glue?) and something I might purchase to reshape and form the bottom that was chewed up? I don't think it's bad enough to have to get a whole new rudder. Thanks for any help!
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Foss Foam
If you end up replacing it. I believe Foss Foam made it and should have a replacement for you.
If you end up replacing it. I believe Foss Foam made it and should have a replacement for you.
I Have Two Ideas
Where it is spliting get a Dremel tool and put in a V about an eighth of an inch deep then fill with Marine Tex and sand smooth. Dont worry about the misshaped portion unless you are going to enter the boat in the next Americas Cup. Just seal the exposed portions of it just as you did the crack. You could use resin or some other epoxy product but you just got good at working Marine Tex so give it a shot with that. The other option is to buy a new blade from the site right here. It is an one peice monolithic deal and most folks seem to really like them.
Where it is spliting get a Dremel tool and put in a V about an eighth of an inch deep then fill with Marine Tex and sand smooth. Dont worry about the misshaped portion unless you are going to enter the boat in the next Americas Cup. Just seal the exposed portions of it just as you did the crack. You could use resin or some other epoxy product but you just got good at working Marine Tex so give it a shot with that. The other option is to buy a new blade from the site right here. It is an one peice monolithic deal and most folks seem to really like them.
Thanks
OK, sounds simple enough. But, the bottom of the rudder had about 4-5 inches chewed off, if I just seal it and don't reshape it, will it affect steerage of the boat, or increase weather helm?
OK, sounds simple enough. But, the bottom of the rudder had about 4-5 inches chewed off, if I just seal it and don't reshape it, will it affect steerage of the boat, or increase weather helm?
Marine Tex will do the job but.........
Just got slammed by hurricane Wilma. Had alot of damage on my hunter 25.5. My rudder got smashed against the cement dock. A long piece (slice) of my rudder is gone. About 29-32 inches long. The foam was exposed. I bought Epoxy (resin)which is pre-mixed with pieces of fiberglass at an auto body supply store. Mixed in the hardener and layered the damaged area. Waited 1 1/2 hr and continued with the layering. Waited 24 hours for it to cure. Sanded down the area and applied bottom paint (antifouling). I used the Expoxy ($11.00) instead of the Marine Tex($72.00) because it was cheaper completely water proof, and easy to work with. If you have ever worked with Marine Tex you know that it will dry like cement, and it is very hard to shape or sand. My rudder is back on the boat and doing the job. Good luck! Phil
Just got slammed by hurricane Wilma. Had alot of damage on my hunter 25.5. My rudder got smashed against the cement dock. A long piece (slice) of my rudder is gone. About 29-32 inches long. The foam was exposed. I bought Epoxy (resin)which is pre-mixed with pieces of fiberglass at an auto body supply store. Mixed in the hardener and layered the damaged area. Waited 1 1/2 hr and continued with the layering. Waited 24 hours for it to cure. Sanded down the area and applied bottom paint (antifouling). I used the Expoxy ($11.00) instead of the Marine Tex($72.00) because it was cheaper completely water proof, and easy to work with. If you have ever worked with Marine Tex you know that it will dry like cement, and it is very hard to shape or sand. My rudder is back on the boat and doing the job. Good luck! Phil
Doubt You'll Notice Any Difference At All
One of the secrets to working with Marine Tex or any sort of filler like Bondo is the do as much shaping as you can before it hardens. Use aluminum foil to smooth it out after you fill the split and then use a file to get the contour as close as possible to the original.
One of the secrets to working with Marine Tex or any sort of filler like Bondo is the do as much shaping as you can before it hardens. Use aluminum foil to smooth it out after you fill the split and then use a file to get the contour as close as possible to the original.
Thought Some More
Where yoou'll notice the difference is when you heal over the rudder will come out of the water sooner and you will round up before you normally would. Not enough of a difference that I would run right out to get the new rudder but keep it in mind.
Where yoou'll notice the difference is when you heal over the rudder will come out of the water sooner and you will round up before you normally would. Not enough of a difference that I would run right out to get the new rudder but keep it in mind.
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