I need to replace my furling line and i need to do a "Double Braid Constant Diameter Splice". the only thing that i have been able to find is instructions from New England Ropes. Would any of you have a better example to follow? thanks for your time. Howard
splicing
- Thread starter Howard9071
- Start date
- Status
I can't tell you how many
miles of double braid I sacrificed in order to learn how to make the "constant diameter splice" using published directions by at least two rope makers. I never got it right. I did, however, develop a suitable "workaround splice" that sufficed. If you are interested in how I did that, send me your email address. A friend of mine (Jim Seamans, s/v Java) broke the code by buying and using Brion Toss' splicing DVD and special splicing wands. He said the splice was a piece of cake using those. I would hazzard the guess, however, that you could have a professional rigger come to your boat and do the splice there for the same cost as the Toss DVD and wands... In my case, I was trying to use the standard double braid splicing fids/pushers and it just didn't work for me.
miles of double braid I sacrificed in order to learn how to make the "constant diameter splice" using published directions by at least two rope makers. I never got it right. I did, however, develop a suitable "workaround splice" that sufficed. If you are interested in how I did that, send me your email address. A friend of mine (Jim Seamans, s/v Java) broke the code by buying and using Brion Toss' splicing DVD and special splicing wands. He said the splice was a piece of cake using those. I would hazzard the guess, however, that you could have a professional rigger come to your boat and do the splice there for the same cost as the Toss DVD and wands... In my case, I was trying to use the standard double braid splicing fids/pushers and it just didn't work for me.
Splicing Challenges
I agree with Warren, After many unsuccessful attempts bought Brian Toss' books, and the wands and am getting better. This is a tough splice do do well. BTW found a great site for other splices: http://www.animatedknots.com/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com
I agree with Warren, After many unsuccessful attempts bought Brian Toss' books, and the wands and am getting better. This is a tough splice do do well. BTW found a great site for other splices: http://www.animatedknots.com/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com
three strand splice
Triple strand rope is much easier to long splice. Looks saltier too IMHO Another solution is to put the splice at the exit end of the furler drum when the sail is furled. Then the splice moves away from the drum and has to make the entire circuit before getting back to the drum. I had this as a periodic task when I was using braided line.
Triple strand rope is much easier to long splice. Looks saltier too IMHO Another solution is to put the splice at the exit end of the furler drum when the sail is furled. Then the splice moves away from the drum and has to make the entire circuit before getting back to the drum. I had this as a periodic task when I was using braided line.
splice
Warren, my email is howardarm@cox.net. and to Bill, does the three strand hold well in the jaws of the furler drum? i have wasted some line trying this as well but am not ready to do away with the roller furler or upgrade to the single line yet. thanks all.
Warren, my email is howardarm@cox.net. and to Bill, does the three strand hold well in the jaws of the furler drum? i have wasted some line trying this as well but am not ready to do away with the roller furler or upgrade to the single line yet. thanks all.
I think it holds better
When I used the POer's braid line I had to reposition the splice about twice a year. I have noticed that the three strand long splice is still right where I put it 2 years ago.
When I used the POer's braid line I had to reposition the splice about twice a year. I have noticed that the three strand long splice is still right where I put it 2 years ago.
- Jan 22, 2008
- 519
I Googled and found...
...the following URL. See if it helps. http://www.sailingservices.com/running_rig/splicing/doublbr_endf_end_spl.htm I search for "Double Braid Constant Diameter Splice". Good Luck! There were nany, many hits on Google.
...the following URL. See if it helps. http://www.sailingservices.com/running_rig/splicing/doublbr_endf_end_spl.htm I search for "Double Braid Constant Diameter Splice". Good Luck! There were nany, many hits on Google.
The New England Splice is overkill
The NER splice will work just fine in that application but as others have noted, is is a fussy splice to make. It is designed to retain as much of the rope's strength as possible and for the diameter line that most single line furlers use you don't need anything like that much strength. Hood used a simpler version of the splice for their line drive furlers. I can't seem to find the set of instructions I used to have. Selden also has instructions for and end to end splice but I can't seem to find the instructions on their website any longer. I'll bet if you contact Hood, they can provide the instructions for the Hood line drive splice. It is easy to make and plenty strong enough for the furling line.
The NER splice will work just fine in that application but as others have noted, is is a fussy splice to make. It is designed to retain as much of the rope's strength as possible and for the diameter line that most single line furlers use you don't need anything like that much strength. Hood used a simpler version of the splice for their line drive furlers. I can't seem to find the set of instructions I used to have. Selden also has instructions for and end to end splice but I can't seem to find the instructions on their website any longer. I'll bet if you contact Hood, they can provide the instructions for the Hood line drive splice. It is easy to make and plenty strong enough for the furling line.
After failing"Constant Diameter"
splicing 101, here is what I did instead: I took a utility knife and heated it red hot with a propane torch. I used the hot knife to cut both ends of a piece of double braid nice and smooth and with no frays. It sealed them nicely. I then took a piece of heat shrink tubing of the right size and about 5 inches long and slid it over one end. I butted the two ends together and then began to sew them in place using long stitches all around the area where they joined. Each stitch was about 2 inches in length. I used some really tough waxed dacron whipping line to sew with. I guess I put about 10 stitches or so around the butted joint. Then I slipped the heat shrink over the splice and heated it up to seal it. That "splice" was really strong and could take a lot of pressure. It had no trouble going through the furling drum. Although I later replaced the furler, my guess is that "splice" would have lasted a number of years. Hope this helps.
splicing 101, here is what I did instead: I took a utility knife and heated it red hot with a propane torch. I used the hot knife to cut both ends of a piece of double braid nice and smooth and with no frays. It sealed them nicely. I then took a piece of heat shrink tubing of the right size and about 5 inches long and slid it over one end. I butted the two ends together and then began to sew them in place using long stitches all around the area where they joined. Each stitch was about 2 inches in length. I used some really tough waxed dacron whipping line to sew with. I guess I put about 10 stitches or so around the butted joint. Then I slipped the heat shrink over the splice and heated it up to seal it. That "splice" was really strong and could take a lot of pressure. It had no trouble going through the furling drum. Although I later replaced the furler, my guess is that "splice" would have lasted a number of years. Hope this helps.
End splice
I splice all of my own line, large and small eye splices in Sta-set and Sta-set X, takes me about 45 min. and 1 beer to do any eye splice. After 100 or more attempts to do a good looking end to end and wasting yards of line, I never could get a splice that looks as good as the rigging shop could do. I accept that this is one of the things in my life I can not do to my standards, so I spring for the $20 it costs to have it done right. Also saves on cuss words and Rollaids;-)))) fair winds Dave
I splice all of my own line, large and small eye splices in Sta-set and Sta-set X, takes me about 45 min. and 1 beer to do any eye splice. After 100 or more attempts to do a good looking end to end and wasting yards of line, I never could get a splice that looks as good as the rigging shop could do. I accept that this is one of the things in my life I can not do to my standards, so I spring for the $20 it costs to have it done right. Also saves on cuss words and Rollaids;-)))) fair winds Dave
Samson
We sell Samson XLS here, here is a link to Samson's site with downloadable splicing instructions: http://www.samsonrope.com/index.cfm?page=28 Good luck. Dave Groshong customer service SailboatOwners.com
We sell Samson XLS here, here is a link to Samson's site with downloadable splicing instructions: http://www.samsonrope.com/index.cfm?page=28 Good luck. Dave Groshong customer service SailboatOwners.com
I used Warren's method
I used Warren's method but with a few differences. When I cut the lines with the hot knife, I laid them down side by side, paralell to each other and cut them diagonally. I also sewed with whipping thread in long (varying lengths)stiches across the splice while rotating the line to spread the load. Warren's idea of the shrink tubing sounds good and I might have tried it if I'd thought of it. I whipped the entire splice with standard whipping thead instead. I did have to re-whip it twice in 8 years but the splice performed well. I know that these Hood double line furlers are not supposed to be used to reef but I do it regularly and have never had a problem. I do make sure that the splice is on the unloaded side when I reef. Sometimes that requires "walking" it around a bit but that's not hard to do and it gives me peace of mind. Warren, I'll be in your area (HHS)in July (9th & 10th, I think) I'll buy you a beer at Mangos if you stop by. Tom s/v Orion's Child
I used Warren's method but with a few differences. When I cut the lines with the hot knife, I laid them down side by side, paralell to each other and cut them diagonally. I also sewed with whipping thread in long (varying lengths)stiches across the splice while rotating the line to spread the load. Warren's idea of the shrink tubing sounds good and I might have tried it if I'd thought of it. I whipped the entire splice with standard whipping thead instead. I did have to re-whip it twice in 8 years but the splice performed well. I know that these Hood double line furlers are not supposed to be used to reef but I do it regularly and have never had a problem. I do make sure that the splice is on the unloaded side when I reef. Sometimes that requires "walking" it around a bit but that's not hard to do and it gives me peace of mind. Warren, I'll be in your area (HHS)in July (9th & 10th, I think) I'll buy you a beer at Mangos if you stop by. Tom s/v Orion's Child
Line cutter
Has anyone reverse engineered a hot wire line cutting circuit? The ones that are commercially available seem like a lot of money for not much equipment. What is an appropriate gauge and type of wire, size power resistor, voltage? I'm guessing that with an old AC/DC converter that I have lying around I'll be able to rig up something usable - if it can supply enough current. I remember as a teen I had a long 12 gauge copper wire jumping out a bad part of the wiring harness on my Olds Cutlass. The jumper itself shorted out. In a matter of seconds the 12V car battery drew enough current through the wire to melt off all the insulation and start burning into hoses etc... Having nothing else handy, I swiped at it with my hand to knock it off the car. It worked, but I did receive a nasty burn for my carelessness. I'm just learning splicing too and a line cutter would be handy.
Has anyone reverse engineered a hot wire line cutting circuit? The ones that are commercially available seem like a lot of money for not much equipment. What is an appropriate gauge and type of wire, size power resistor, voltage? I'm guessing that with an old AC/DC converter that I have lying around I'll be able to rig up something usable - if it can supply enough current. I remember as a teen I had a long 12 gauge copper wire jumping out a bad part of the wiring harness on my Olds Cutlass. The jumper itself shorted out. In a matter of seconds the 12V car battery drew enough current through the wire to melt off all the insulation and start burning into hoses etc... Having nothing else handy, I swiped at it with my hand to knock it off the car. It worked, but I did receive a nasty burn for my carelessness. I'm just learning splicing too and a line cutter would be handy.
Worst Marine has them!
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product/10001/-1/10001/268824/10001/227/11208/800
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product/10001/-1/10001/268824/10001/227/11208/800
It's the principle
I just find it philosophically objectionable to spend $30 on 30 cents worth of current limiting resistor (plus an old DC power adapter, could even use an old car battery). I'll let you know what circuit values I come up with after playing around with it. Further off topic, why do you suppose that fishfinder transducer and displays sell for a fraction of the cost of "depth sounder" units, bulkhead or dash mount, that have same or simliar transducers and more elementary digital displays? More on topic, when do you choose to use a thimble versus just splicing an eye in the line by itself?
I just find it philosophically objectionable to spend $30 on 30 cents worth of current limiting resistor (plus an old DC power adapter, could even use an old car battery). I'll let you know what circuit values I come up with after playing around with it. Further off topic, why do you suppose that fishfinder transducer and displays sell for a fraction of the cost of "depth sounder" units, bulkhead or dash mount, that have same or simliar transducers and more elementary digital displays? More on topic, when do you choose to use a thimble versus just splicing an eye in the line by itself?
A gun with tip
Use a soldering gun with line cutter tips. The tips are something like 4 dollars each. Look at, www.hamiltonmarine.com/0076.htm It’s much better then the bench mounted one and can be used when you do a wire to line splice or taper or rat tail a line etc. All the best, Robert Gainer
Use a soldering gun with line cutter tips. The tips are something like 4 dollars each. Look at, www.hamiltonmarine.com/0076.htm It’s much better then the bench mounted one and can be used when you do a wire to line splice or taper or rat tail a line etc. All the best, Robert Gainer
- Status