I purchased the line and a splicing kit for my halyards, read the instruction booklet and set out to splice. Two hours later I had the fid stuck so tight I could not go forward or back it out. Has anyone sliced with any success?
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Here's some other ideas. StuDo you have the right size fid?
My experience is that you must use new line (which you have) and must use the right size fid for each size of line you wish to splice. The first couple of times are the most difficult, but don't give up, the results are worth the effort.
My experience is that you must use new line (which you have) and must use the right size fid for each size of line you wish to splice. The first couple of times are the most difficult, but don't give up, the results are worth the effort.
a couple possibilities
A few things that beginners might not know about splicing double-braid: 1. Every size line requires a different fid. If someone tries to sell you a one-size-fits-all fid in a splicing kit, run the other way. 2. Stretched line is ten times harder to splice than unused line. Avoid the temptation to tie a bowline in a new line and use it a couple of times before you can get around to splicing it. 3. Taper the cover to make it easier to draw in. Instructions for doing this can be found on page 95 of Chapman's Knots. It makes the job a TON easier. 4. Practice a few splices on a short length of new line before you ruin an expensive new halyard. Most chandleries have a box of "roll remnants," short pieces of new rope you can buy inexpensively. Use the exact type of line to practice that you'll be using for your halyard, because different cores are straight, twisted or braided, and will need to be worked differently. 5. No shortcuts. If your instructions tell you to mark position X with a blue felt pen, use a blue felt pen.
A few things that beginners might not know about splicing double-braid: 1. Every size line requires a different fid. If someone tries to sell you a one-size-fits-all fid in a splicing kit, run the other way. 2. Stretched line is ten times harder to splice than unused line. Avoid the temptation to tie a bowline in a new line and use it a couple of times before you can get around to splicing it. 3. Taper the cover to make it easier to draw in. Instructions for doing this can be found on page 95 of Chapman's Knots. It makes the job a TON easier. 4. Practice a few splices on a short length of new line before you ruin an expensive new halyard. Most chandleries have a box of "roll remnants," short pieces of new rope you can buy inexpensively. Use the exact type of line to practice that you'll be using for your halyard, because different cores are straight, twisted or braided, and will need to be worked differently. 5. No shortcuts. If your instructions tell you to mark position X with a blue felt pen, use a blue felt pen.
It is so easy.....
Don: It is so easy when you watch someone do it. One of our local harbor rats has a son that is a professional rigger. He does a line in about 3-8 minutes (friggin' amazing). I just let him do mine.
Don: It is so easy when you watch someone do it. One of our local harbor rats has a son that is a professional rigger. He does a line in about 3-8 minutes (friggin' amazing). I just let him do mine.
I've spliced double braided line many times
Yale Yatch Braid should be fairly easy to splice, or at least that's been my experience. I assume you are using the traditional fid and pusher tools, but perhaps you are using the Yale splicing device. Nevertheless, I am pretty sure I know where your problem is. I think as you are pulling or pushing the core through the cover to where the core has exited from the cover, you are running into an area that is quite tight as you are trying to push or pull a fid into a cover that already has a core in it. Basically, the last step before you pull things up tight. Now, the instructions may seem to say to continue pushing or pulling the fid down several inches into the cover, a task which I am sure at this point you find impossible. Well it is. I have ended up just pushing or pulling the fid a small fraction of an inch past the point where the core exits the cover where it becomes very difficult to continue pushing or pulling. I exit the fid at that point. I have done this many times with no loss in strength or safety. In fact I recall that there is a book that even instructs in splicing using this method. Another somewhat helpful item is to put talcum powder (baby powder) onto the core. That will make it a little more slippery. Don't try splicing Marlow lines as their covers are much too tight over their cores. New England ropes, especially their high tech lines are also difficult to splice. My favorites for splicing are Yale and Sampson.
Yale Yatch Braid should be fairly easy to splice, or at least that's been my experience. I assume you are using the traditional fid and pusher tools, but perhaps you are using the Yale splicing device. Nevertheless, I am pretty sure I know where your problem is. I think as you are pulling or pushing the core through the cover to where the core has exited from the cover, you are running into an area that is quite tight as you are trying to push or pull a fid into a cover that already has a core in it. Basically, the last step before you pull things up tight. Now, the instructions may seem to say to continue pushing or pulling the fid down several inches into the cover, a task which I am sure at this point you find impossible. Well it is. I have ended up just pushing or pulling the fid a small fraction of an inch past the point where the core exits the cover where it becomes very difficult to continue pushing or pulling. I exit the fid at that point. I have done this many times with no loss in strength or safety. In fact I recall that there is a book that even instructs in splicing using this method. Another somewhat helpful item is to put talcum powder (baby powder) onto the core. That will make it a little more slippery. Don't try splicing Marlow lines as their covers are much too tight over their cores. New England ropes, especially their high tech lines are also difficult to splice. My favorites for splicing are Yale and Sampson.
Splice the Hard Way or the Easy Way
Your Choice. I too was pulled in to this web of deceipt perpetrated on unwary boatowners by corporations selling useless tools. I tried the fids and pushers, a different one for each size rope....they stink and work poorly. I tried a "super snake" tool that worked well but broke in half after the second splice. THEN I INVENTED MY OWN TOOL!!! It is fantastic, is essentially FREE, and works so good I CAN'T believe it!!!! I could make millions on my tool but I posted it here for everyone to share just as my way of giving something back to the community. My tool is posted in the forum archives with a photo. It is made out of a simple coat hanger, it will not break, it works great, and you will love it. You can make it from smaller diameter stiff wire for smaller lines (I was splicing 5/8 and 1/2 inch) which I have also done. The tool is made in less than 5 minutes with a set of pliers and some wire cutters (usually found as part of the pliers). I think I called it Dave's super splicing tool or something if you want to search for it. Good luck Dave
Your Choice. I too was pulled in to this web of deceipt perpetrated on unwary boatowners by corporations selling useless tools. I tried the fids and pushers, a different one for each size rope....they stink and work poorly. I tried a "super snake" tool that worked well but broke in half after the second splice. THEN I INVENTED MY OWN TOOL!!! It is fantastic, is essentially FREE, and works so good I CAN'T believe it!!!! I could make millions on my tool but I posted it here for everyone to share just as my way of giving something back to the community. My tool is posted in the forum archives with a photo. It is made out of a simple coat hanger, it will not break, it works great, and you will love it. You can make it from smaller diameter stiff wire for smaller lines (I was splicing 5/8 and 1/2 inch) which I have also done. The tool is made in less than 5 minutes with a set of pliers and some wire cutters (usually found as part of the pliers). I think I called it Dave's super splicing tool or something if you want to search for it. Good luck Dave
I buy pre- spliced
Splicing is like golf you have to do it frequently to be any good. I would rather spend my time sailing so I avoid the frustration (also like golf) and just buy pre-spliced or pay someone to to do it.
Splicing is like golf you have to do it frequently to be any good. I would rather spend my time sailing so I avoid the frustration (also like golf) and just buy pre-spliced or pay someone to to do it.
Its not so bad
I've spliced them all: 1. Three strand - nylon nad polyester filament - for my rope lifelines, chain snubber, lazy jacks, and so on. Easiest, and fun adn quick. 2. Double braid - for various purposes. I have hte Sampson fid and pusher kit - over-priced, and I never use the pusher. Takes a little practice, but can come out really nice. 3. Parallel core low stretch, like Sta-Set X, spliced eyes around thimples for halyards. Need a winch to pull these in. Only high strength way of attaching these lines. The "trick" is tha tyou need a tool bag with all of the right stuff - masking tape, permanent marker, scissors, knife (and I have a square of plywood and a hammer so I can cut rope quickly and cleanly with my rigging knife); whipping twines, needles, fids, and a good cigarette lighter and spare can of butane. jv
I've spliced them all: 1. Three strand - nylon nad polyester filament - for my rope lifelines, chain snubber, lazy jacks, and so on. Easiest, and fun adn quick. 2. Double braid - for various purposes. I have hte Sampson fid and pusher kit - over-priced, and I never use the pusher. Takes a little practice, but can come out really nice. 3. Parallel core low stretch, like Sta-Set X, spliced eyes around thimples for halyards. Need a winch to pull these in. Only high strength way of attaching these lines. The "trick" is tha tyou need a tool bag with all of the right stuff - masking tape, permanent marker, scissors, knife (and I have a square of plywood and a hammer so I can cut rope quickly and cleanly with my rigging knife); whipping twines, needles, fids, and a good cigarette lighter and spare can of butane. jv
Splicing kit gets the deep 6
It is a wonder I got as far as I did with the kit I bought. Two fid sizes with a pointed end and one end with a hook. No pusher!!! The hook snagged everything. I like the idea tying a boline so no more splicing except three strand for me. The kit was New England Ropes Uni-Fid II splicing tool.
It is a wonder I got as far as I did with the kit I bought. Two fid sizes with a pointed end and one end with a hook. No pusher!!! The hook snagged everything. I like the idea tying a boline so no more splicing except three strand for me. The kit was New England Ropes Uni-Fid II splicing tool.
It's knot that hard
Nyuk,nyuk I like splicing. Sta-Set is super easy. I just followed the instructions that came with the fid set. If it said to wrap with tape, I did, mark at 1 inch, I did. Worked each time. Blind ends and thimbles. Sta-Set X is more difficult to work with. Can't make a blind end with that stuff, but did my halyard thimble eyes. I'd rather splice line than polish brite work.
Nyuk,nyuk I like splicing. Sta-Set is super easy. I just followed the instructions that came with the fid set. If it said to wrap with tape, I did, mark at 1 inch, I did. Worked each time. Blind ends and thimbles. Sta-Set X is more difficult to work with. Can't make a blind end with that stuff, but did my halyard thimble eyes. I'd rather splice line than polish brite work.
I like doing my own splicing...
It connects me with my boat in a personal way. Using splices in place of bowlines (did I see someone call it a "boland"?) gives the rigging a clean look. I have never had a splicing session take away from my sailing. I will bring it home, or do it while watching football on t.v..... I use the fids, one for each size of rope. The biggest problem is keeping the core in the fid while trying to push it through the cross-over area. That's where two sections of core are inside the cover. What I do is use a razor blade to taper the end of the core so it will fit into the fid's end cavity well, then I spirally wrap masking tape around the fid and core to hold it in. Theoretically when I'm pushing the fid through the tight spot, twisting it, etc. the twisted tape is less likely to peel. I don't use the pusher tool much, it destroys the core/fid connection, and it keep thinking it's going to poke through my hand or something else. The talcom powder trick sounds like a good idea. My technique for getting the fid through that long tight section is the same as Bayard's. Inch by inch. That is not to try and push the fid through the whole distance at once, but rather exit the cover when it gets too tight, then re-enter in the same place/hole and continue on. Instead of 3-4 inches of tight pressure on the entire fid, do it one or two inches at a time. It won't hurt the splice. I've talked to a few guys who use the splicing wand. You go in from the back, attach the core to the wand via the adjustable loop and them pull the piece back through. They cost about 40-50 dollars. But I'm cheap, already own the fids, so... why change.
It connects me with my boat in a personal way. Using splices in place of bowlines (did I see someone call it a "boland"?) gives the rigging a clean look. I have never had a splicing session take away from my sailing. I will bring it home, or do it while watching football on t.v..... I use the fids, one for each size of rope. The biggest problem is keeping the core in the fid while trying to push it through the cross-over area. That's where two sections of core are inside the cover. What I do is use a razor blade to taper the end of the core so it will fit into the fid's end cavity well, then I spirally wrap masking tape around the fid and core to hold it in. Theoretically when I'm pushing the fid through the tight spot, twisting it, etc. the twisted tape is less likely to peel. I don't use the pusher tool much, it destroys the core/fid connection, and it keep thinking it's going to poke through my hand or something else. The talcom powder trick sounds like a good idea. My technique for getting the fid through that long tight section is the same as Bayard's. Inch by inch. That is not to try and push the fid through the whole distance at once, but rather exit the cover when it gets too tight, then re-enter in the same place/hole and continue on. Instead of 3-4 inches of tight pressure on the entire fid, do it one or two inches at a time. It won't hurt the splice. I've talked to a few guys who use the splicing wand. You go in from the back, attach the core to the wand via the adjustable loop and them pull the piece back through. They cost about 40-50 dollars. But I'm cheap, already own the fids, so... why change.
Dave, I can't find your photo of magic splicing
tool. Could you please repost it for us? Thanks!
tool. Could you please repost it for us? Thanks!
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