I'm looking to replace my 25' chain with about 100-125' on my H376. My 200' nylon rode is in good shape. How difficult is splicing the line to the chain? Or should I leave this up to someone else? Does someone have a simple easy to follow diagram? Thanks, Bob
- Status
easy
Splice an eye with a thimble into the end and then shackle it to your chain, then Safety wire the shackle closed. You can have a local rigger make the splice if you don't feel confident about it.
Splice an eye with a thimble into the end and then shackle it to your chain, then Safety wire the shackle closed. You can have a local rigger make the splice if you don't feel confident about it.
Hard
Steve, I'm kidding. But if Bob hopes to run his rode through a windlass, the splice would have to be rope/chain and tight. No thimble. Even without a windlass, getting rid of shackles and thimbles is a very good thing.
Steve, I'm kidding. But if Bob hopes to run his rode through a windlass, the splice would have to be rope/chain and tight. No thimble. Even without a windlass, getting rid of shackles and thimbles is a very good thing.
Not Difficult but always a worry
Bob, Lewmar/Simpson Lawrence recommend a simple back splice in the rope and passing the strands through the end link in the chain. This way the join should pass through the chain/rope gypsy. I use this but constantly worry about the rope chafing in the end link. It needs frequent inspections, sometimes jams in the windlass and rust is the enemy. I try to anchor in shallow water on chain only
Bob, Lewmar/Simpson Lawrence recommend a simple back splice in the rope and passing the strands through the end link in the chain. This way the join should pass through the chain/rope gypsy. I use this but constantly worry about the rope chafing in the end link. It needs frequent inspections, sometimes jams in the windlass and rust is the enemy. I try to anchor in shallow water on chain only
Thanks Alan, Don & Fred....
Then link to NE Rope helps, but I think I'll let an "expert" do it. I'll sleep better not worring about my splicing ability!
Then link to NE Rope helps, but I think I'll let an "expert" do it. I'll sleep better not worring about my splicing ability!
BELLY UP TO THE BAR
Doing a splice is a simple thing on 3 strand line, and any seaman worth his salt should be able to at least do an eye splice and after a few of thoes a back splice isn't that hard and that is all the rope/line splice is... are you going to be relying on someone else to do most of the other things on the boat also, gee what happens when something breaks and there is nobody around to fix it... I started splicing lines at the age of 10... try it it isn't all that difficult on 3 strand....braid on braid on the other hand takes some time but even that isn't worth $20 - 25 per splice that the riggers charge... PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT and just think you just learned a new skill
Doing a splice is a simple thing on 3 strand line, and any seaman worth his salt should be able to at least do an eye splice and after a few of thoes a back splice isn't that hard and that is all the rope/line splice is... are you going to be relying on someone else to do most of the other things on the boat also, gee what happens when something breaks and there is nobody around to fix it... I started splicing lines at the age of 10... try it it isn't all that difficult on 3 strand....braid on braid on the other hand takes some time but even that isn't worth $20 - 25 per splice that the riggers charge... PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT and just think you just learned a new skill
To: Patrick - adding chain?
Existing chain is fine. Adding on to the anchor side of the chain is a great idea, but I worry about the strength of the splice link, and how it will feed through the windlass. Bob
Existing chain is fine. Adding on to the anchor side of the chain is a great idea, but I worry about the strength of the splice link, and how it will feed through the windlass. Bob
Adding chain to chain
Take both chains to a welding shop. They will cut the last link, join the chain and weld the link. The weld is stronger than the chain. You will loose part of the galvanizing on one link. Most paint stores carry GAL-A-GRIP. Paint the line once or twice a season to keep the rust at bay until it's time to redo the whole chain. It's a good idea to learn the splice for joining rode to chain if you use a windless. You should tie a new one every few years. Tom Neal hates this joint and does not recommend it for the year round sailing he does.
Take both chains to a welding shop. They will cut the last link, join the chain and weld the link. The weld is stronger than the chain. You will loose part of the galvanizing on one link. Most paint stores carry GAL-A-GRIP. Paint the line once or twice a season to keep the rust at bay until it's time to redo the whole chain. It's a good idea to learn the splice for joining rode to chain if you use a windless. You should tie a new one every few years. Tom Neal hates this joint and does not recommend it for the year round sailing he does.
Re Chafing
I have spliced rope to chain, the example I followed was to lay heat shrink tube in the chain link and then run the three strands through that. Shrink the tubing and then you have an abrasion resistant cover on the nylon so it is not in direct contact with the chain. Tony
I have spliced rope to chain, the example I followed was to lay heat shrink tube in the chain link and then run the three strands through that. Shrink the tubing and then you have an abrasion resistant cover on the nylon so it is not in direct contact with the chain. Tony
Tony, I don't understand, How did you 'lay' the
tubing. I can't visualize how heat-shrink tubing can go around a chain link, except the outside, and what good would that do?
tubing. I can't visualize how heat-shrink tubing can go around a chain link, except the outside, and what good would that do?
- Status