I'm trying to find out how to replace the line that pulls open the roller furling. Since it has to be a continous loop, it has to be spliced. How do you splice so that it is strong but still fits through the roller furling. Anyone have any recommendations for a good book that would cover this and other splices.
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WM HAS A SPLICE KIT FOR DOUBLE BRAID...
that I think includes instructions on butt splicing. I do not have the kit, nor do I know how to do it. I've been told it is quite easy to do, but it requires a special fid that comes with this kit. Good luck. Terry
that I think includes instructions on butt splicing. I do not have the kit, nor do I know how to do it. I've been told it is quite easy to do, but it requires a special fid that comes with this kit. Good luck. Terry
slip it under
I bought the line pre-spliced in a loop from sailnet for our hood furler, then undid the forestay at the boat and slipped the loop up into the furler.. had to use the jib halyard to pull the mast forward enough to re attach the forestay but it was a pretty quick deal..
I bought the line pre-spliced in a loop from sailnet for our hood furler, then undid the forestay at the boat and slipped the loop up into the furler.. had to use the jib halyard to pull the mast forward enough to re attach the forestay but it was a pretty quick deal..
Most any rigging shop.
Terri: Most any rigging shop can make up the line for you. The problem with this is the fact that you have to take off the forestay to install it. If there is a rigger that comes to your marina, you can have them do it on the boat. The other option is to convert your system to a single line vs a continous line system.
Terri: Most any rigging shop can make up the line for you. The problem with this is the fact that you have to take off the forestay to install it. If there is a rigger that comes to your marina, you can have them do it on the boat. The other option is to convert your system to a single line vs a continous line system.
www.briontoss.com
Brtion Toss is the master rigger's master rigger. His video tape on splicing covers the splice you need, along with most of the others. An end to end splice is not in itself easy, but it is by no means imposible. I find it easier than an eyr splice in double braid. After about three to five practice splices following along on the tape you'll be OK to do the real thing on your boat. Get his tape. His books are excelent also.
Brtion Toss is the master rigger's master rigger. His video tape on splicing covers the splice you need, along with most of the others. An end to end splice is not in itself easy, but it is by no means imposible. I find it easier than an eyr splice in double braid. After about three to five practice splices following along on the tape you'll be OK to do the real thing on your boat. Get his tape. His books are excelent also.
Continous Furler Line
I was with my rigger when he spliced the line on my Legend 37. The best way to explain it is think about the Chinese Finger Trick. You remove a portion of the core of the line on each end of the line, about 8". You then slip the end of the line into the cored portion of the other end using a fib. You then repeat the process with the other core removed end of the line into the cored end of the other end. There will be a small area which will have the two core removed portion of the line exposed. You whould then sew those two portions together just to assure the two ends don't pull out. Once you put tension on the line to furl or unfurl the sail it puts pressure on those two areas and prevents the ends from pulling out. I have been using the line for 3 years and I have had no trouble with the ends slipping out. A lot of words... Hope the meaning of them is understood. Good Luck.
I was with my rigger when he spliced the line on my Legend 37. The best way to explain it is think about the Chinese Finger Trick. You remove a portion of the core of the line on each end of the line, about 8". You then slip the end of the line into the cored portion of the other end using a fib. You then repeat the process with the other core removed end of the line into the cored end of the other end. There will be a small area which will have the two core removed portion of the line exposed. You whould then sew those two portions together just to assure the two ends don't pull out. Once you put tension on the line to furl or unfurl the sail it puts pressure on those two areas and prevents the ends from pulling out. I have been using the line for 3 years and I have had no trouble with the ends slipping out. A lot of words... Hope the meaning of them is understood. Good Luck.
Continuous Loop Line
Terri We just did this job on our 27_75-84 (actually, my wife Pam did the splice work, I replaced the blocks and fairleads. So press on and remember to order your new line a bit long. You can always shorten it if the first splice isn't your best work.
You will need a kit from West Marine (or wherever). The kit needs to include the "fid" that fits the line size you are using and is designed for braided line. The bigger kits will have all of that in them. However, the kit didn't have any good instructions on how to do the necessary continuous loop splice. Luckily, the previous owners of our boat had saved the Cruising Designs Inc. manual and there is a pretty good explanation of the process in there, with some diagrams. If you have that CDI furler and you can't get any help from their web site (see below for the url) send me an email at rvanderveer@bellsouth.net and I can scan our manual in for you and send it along via pdf. By the way, for the good of the group, we also successfully lowered the jib for the first time on that furling setup. Everything was easy once we realized that the little messenger thingy needs to go up the aluminum track with the arrow pointing down (apparently to indicate the lowering of the sail). Finally, I feel the need to defend the continuous loop design of that CDI rig. It works perfectly for us. And I notice that companies seem to be going back to that setup. So you guys be nice out there!! Take care, Ron Vanderveer "Dolphin Dancer"
Terri We just did this job on our 27_75-84 (actually, my wife Pam did the splice work, I replaced the blocks and fairleads. So press on and remember to order your new line a bit long. You can always shorten it if the first splice isn't your best work.
You will need a kit from West Marine (or wherever). The kit needs to include the "fid" that fits the line size you are using and is designed for braided line. The bigger kits will have all of that in them. However, the kit didn't have any good instructions on how to do the necessary continuous loop splice. Luckily, the previous owners of our boat had saved the Cruising Designs Inc. manual and there is a pretty good explanation of the process in there, with some diagrams. If you have that CDI furler and you can't get any help from their web site (see below for the url) send me an email at rvanderveer@bellsouth.net and I can scan our manual in for you and send it along via pdf. By the way, for the good of the group, we also successfully lowered the jib for the first time on that furling setup. Everything was easy once we realized that the little messenger thingy needs to go up the aluminum track with the arrow pointing down (apparently to indicate the lowering of the sail). Finally, I feel the need to defend the continuous loop design of that CDI rig. It works perfectly for us. And I notice that companies seem to be going back to that setup. So you guys be nice out there!! Take care, Ron Vanderveer "Dolphin Dancer"Contact Hood
I had the same problem....needed to replace the continuous line on my Hood 705LD furler. I contacted Hood, I think through their web site & e-mail. They sent me a photocopy of the original manual for the 705LD. It includes instructions for splicing a continues line from any quality double braid. It was easy to do, took about 30 minutes, and you don't have to disconnect your forestay to do it. The manual was also very helpful for proper maintainance and for removing the furler when I tuned my rig. If you can't find the web site, the last phone number I have for Hood Yacht Systems is 813-885-2182 in Tampa, FL.
I had the same problem....needed to replace the continuous line on my Hood 705LD furler. I contacted Hood, I think through their web site & e-mail. They sent me a photocopy of the original manual for the 705LD. It includes instructions for splicing a continues line from any quality double braid. It was easy to do, took about 30 minutes, and you don't have to disconnect your forestay to do it. The manual was also very helpful for proper maintainance and for removing the furler when I tuned my rig. If you can't find the web site, the last phone number I have for Hood Yacht Systems is 813-885-2182 in Tampa, FL.
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