I have a 2003 Fractional/Wing that I would like to add a spinnaker to. There is a spinnaker halyard on the mast already. I don't know much about flying one, what else do I need. I have a very nice sturdy whisker pole, could I use this or do I even need a pole. I feel like from reading I want an asymmetrical but im not sure. Thoughts? Is the spinnaker on Catalina Direct an asymmetrical? Oh and does anyone have a spinnaker for sale?
Spinnaker
- Thread starter SailSmith
- Start date
You are going to need:
1) Spinnaker $600 - $800
2) Spinnaker pole ~~ $500 I do not think you can get buy with a whisker pole.
3) Topping lift setup
4) Pole Downhaul
5) Sheets
6) Some blocks and cleats to run the sheets and guy through
Probably going to cost you around $1,500 before you are through.
Best to sail with somebody who uses a spinnaker, to get a feel for what is involved. Look for a J-22 or J-24 sailor who needs crew. Or another Capri 22 sailor who uses a spinnaker.
Hershey
1) Spinnaker $600 - $800
2) Spinnaker pole ~~ $500 I do not think you can get buy with a whisker pole.
3) Topping lift setup
4) Pole Downhaul
5) Sheets
6) Some blocks and cleats to run the sheets and guy through
Probably going to cost you around $1,500 before you are through.
Best to sail with somebody who uses a spinnaker, to get a feel for what is involved. Look for a J-22 or J-24 sailor who needs crew. Or another Capri 22 sailor who uses a spinnaker.
Hershey
On a 22' Capri, you won't need separate sheets and guys - just two "lines" that switch between sheet and guy depending on current tack.
Starboard tack: sheet is on port running through your sternmost block (attach block to bottom/front of pushpit, the sheets run forward to the main winch on each side) and the line on starboard is now a guy, passing through adjustable length down haul blocks on each side at the widest point of the deck (bottom of midship stanchion).
Gybing switches functions: port sheet becomes port guy as port downhaul line pulls guy down close to the deck and the starboard guy is loosened so that old starboard guy becomes the starboard sheet.
That allows just one line to the whisker pole (8.1 feet long = J) which is the pole topping lift.
Starboard tack: sheet is on port running through your sternmost block (attach block to bottom/front of pushpit, the sheets run forward to the main winch on each side) and the line on starboard is now a guy, passing through adjustable length down haul blocks on each side at the widest point of the deck (bottom of midship stanchion).
Gybing switches functions: port sheet becomes port guy as port downhaul line pulls guy down close to the deck and the starboard guy is loosened so that old starboard guy becomes the starboard sheet.
That allows just one line to the whisker pole (8.1 feet long = J) which is the pole topping lift.
I'm not sure that an asymmetrical 'chute is legal for racing, so if that's your game, check it out first. For day sailing, I would go asymmetrical with a dousing sock. Look on Bacon Associates for other boats with similar I and J dimensions and see if there are some stock asymmetrics that will fit. No pole needed and therefore no pole topping lift, downhaul, tweakers, mast track, or car.
Buy some decent lightweight sheets that are long enough to run forward of the fore stay and sheet close on the other side (maybe 2 1/2 boat lengths each). That way you can gybe the sail by turning it inside out forward of the fore stay.
I'd also install an adjustable tack line run aft to the cockpit. It's nice to be able to raise the tack above the pulpit sometimes
You won't need a spinnaker pole, but if you already have a whisker pole, that's nice to stabilize the asy chute on days when the wind is flukey or you just want to relax.
You'll need a pair of turning blocks (Harken hexaratchets) fastened to the push pit. Just run the sheets forward to the primary winches in stronger winds.
Fun to think about! Sail on, Dude!
Buy some decent lightweight sheets that are long enough to run forward of the fore stay and sheet close on the other side (maybe 2 1/2 boat lengths each). That way you can gybe the sail by turning it inside out forward of the fore stay.
I'd also install an adjustable tack line run aft to the cockpit. It's nice to be able to raise the tack above the pulpit sometimes
You won't need a spinnaker pole, but if you already have a whisker pole, that's nice to stabilize the asy chute on days when the wind is flukey or you just want to relax.
You'll need a pair of turning blocks (Harken hexaratchets) fastened to the push pit. Just run the sheets forward to the primary winches in stronger winds.
Fun to think about! Sail on, Dude!
Everything is legal in PHRF racing!!! You just need a cert.
They got you covered... if you want to "play" and don't care much... look for a J/22 spinnaker on ebay, or catalna 22.
You can buy the ends for a spinnaker pole alone, then go get an aluminum tube locally. All the other stuff should be pretty obtainable.
I personally would go the route of an asym short handed if just screwing around. its easier to launch/retrieve/use... getting the inexpensive sprit from catalinadirect... if you find that launches are too tough, get a top-down furler... now we are talking big bucks, but it'd be worth it for the lazy approach.
If you are looking to be competitive in PHRF W/L races, you'll need the symmetrical setup, and some crew (3 on the boat to properly launch, and fly it).
They got you covered... if you want to "play" and don't care much... look for a J/22 spinnaker on ebay, or catalna 22.
You can buy the ends for a spinnaker pole alone, then go get an aluminum tube locally. All the other stuff should be pretty obtainable.
I personally would go the route of an asym short handed if just screwing around. its easier to launch/retrieve/use... getting the inexpensive sprit from catalinadirect... if you find that launches are too tough, get a top-down furler... now we are talking big bucks, but it'd be worth it for the lazy approach.
If you are looking to be competitive in PHRF W/L races, you'll need the symmetrical setup, and some crew (3 on the boat to properly launch, and fly it).
Everything is legal in PHRF. Yes this is true, but do not be surprised if your PHRF # is different (lower) then what it would be with as "stock" spinnaker setup. Check with the PHRF handicapper before doing anything out of the ordinary.
Hershey
Hershey
Did the Capri 22 one design rules ever get modified to allow:
Asymmetrical spinnakers
Rigid boom vangs
Full batten mainsail
Curious,
Jerry
Asymmetrical spinnakers
Rigid boom vangs
Full batten mainsail
Curious,
Jerry
Jerry you are so funny! changing the class rules... boy the Capri 22 could easily become more modern with a furler, and a sprit, and a larger roachier main (turbo capri 22).
yes allowances/variances from the OD class usually warrant a rating penalty from PHRF.
yes allowances/variances from the OD class usually warrant a rating penalty from PHRF.
All this talk that an Asym should change the PHRF... Does anyone know what the Sq Ft size is of a Regular Spin that is allowed in the class?
FYI- there is a 37' chute scoop on ebay for $60 bucks. Shouldn't be hard to shorten it.
Rule 6.8 The girth measurement shall be taken at the three-quarters and on-half height points on the leech, located when the head is folded to the clew to determine the one-half point, and when the head is folded to the one-half point to determine the three-quarters point. The maximum widths between the leech and the nearest point on the luff including the luff rope, shall not be more than the following (in feet).
Height of Measurement Standard Rig Tall Rig
One-half 6.6 6.7
Three-quarters 3.9 4.0
Rule 6.10 The maximum luff perpendicular (LP) of a headsail shall not be more than 12.6 feet.
Rule 6.13 The spinnaker shall be a three-cornered sail, symmetrical about its center line.
Rule 6.14 The length of the spinnaker leeches shall be not more than 25 feet, for the standard rig, or 29 feet, for the tall rig. All girths shall be not more than 14.68 feet.
Rule 6.8 The girth measurement shall be taken at the three-quarters and on-half height points on the leech, located when the head is folded to the clew to determine the one-half point, and when the head is folded to the one-half point to determine the three-quarters point. The maximum widths between the leech and the nearest point on the luff including the luff rope, shall not be more than the following (in feet).
Height of Measurement Standard Rig Tall Rig
One-half 6.6 6.7
Three-quarters 3.9 4.0
Rule 6.10 The maximum luff perpendicular (LP) of a headsail shall not be more than 12.6 feet.
Rule 6.13 The spinnaker shall be a three-cornered sail, symmetrical about its center line.
Rule 6.14 The length of the spinnaker leeches shall be not more than 25 feet, for the standard rig, or 29 feet, for the tall rig. All girths shall be not more than 14.68 feet.
According to the Class rules that Right Brainer posted above, my sail maker went and calculated that the Max Sq Foot size of a Spin for a standard rig would be about 370 Sq Ft. The Asym I got from him for my standard rig measures out at 400 Sq Ft. So really not much difference there. So while the Asym isn't class legal, no matter in a PHRF fleet. Beside if someone really wants to challenge the existing rating for the Capri they really would need to provide evidence that an Asym is creating a stronger performance than a Regular Spin. Especially given the longer course the Asym requires one to sail when racing traditional windward leeward.
Bottom line its all for fun any way, so if the Asym allows someone to use a chute that otherwise wouldn't, like me, then that's all that matters.
Bottom line its all for fun any way, so if the Asym allows someone to use a chute that otherwise wouldn't, like me, then that's all that matters.
Changing the PHRF, and changing the OD Association rules are 2 different things.
PHRF uses the OD Association class rules to establish a base handicap per region (for every OD boat). Modifications to a boat are assumed to be done to improve the performance, not really to make things easier., thus PHRF usually knocks you 3sec/mile at a time for each modification. Each being, Sym-Asym, Sprit length beyond J, etc.
I still think it'd be a cool beer can configuration.
Didn't someone on here do this to their boat?
PHRF uses the OD Association class rules to establish a base handicap per region (for every OD boat). Modifications to a boat are assumed to be done to improve the performance, not really to make things easier., thus PHRF usually knocks you 3sec/mile at a time for each modification. Each being, Sym-Asym, Sprit length beyond J, etc.
I still think it'd be a cool beer can configuration.
Didn't someone on here do this to their boat?