Asymmetric Spinnaker for 2005 H36
Nick -You don't say, but I assume from your earlier postings that you're not planning on racing with a foredeck crew to handle a symmetric spinnaker.There are basically a couple of choices for asymmetric spinnakers. One is the larger type which you use mostly when wind is aft of the beam (or a little forward) and dowse/control with a spinnaker sock. That's what I had Doyle make for me as part of the custom suit of sails I bought in lieu of the stock Hunter/UK sails. As you may know, I usually single-hand Persephone and the sock makes the chute quite manageable. This design, which Doyle calls an APC, works very well on my H36 with wind angles between 75 and 150 degrees off the bow. (Doyle claims "60 to 160," but that's a stretch.) It's usually made of 0.75oz nylon, and is a light air sail. Mine is 850sq-ft.I especially love mine when sailing in 5-10kts on a broad reach - what a difference in horsepower. My APC is slightly larger than the combined total of the areas of my mainsail and jib, and I get 4.5-5kts out of 6kts of true wind.The other type is a smaller design with a less radical cut that can be thought of almost as a super-sized Genoa jib. It can be used closer to the wind, but gives less horsepower with the wind behind the beam than an APC (but more than your jib could do). Doyle's version is called a UPC, and other sailmakers sometimes call it a Code 0. It's often made of 1.5oz nylon for ocean-crossing use in 20kt trade winds, but is also made from 0.75oz nylon as a light air sail.It can be used with a sock, but one of its great advantages is that it can be hoisted in front of your jib on a vectran luff with a roller furler similar to your jib's. This means it can be handled from the cockpitChuck from Salem has both on his H356 and I'm sure could/would tell you more about the most effective usages of both so you could pick the type that worked for the majority of sailing you do.