Four years ago I bought a new 95 336 and one year later purchased an asymetrical Spinnaker at a boat show that was suppose to be made specifically for it. In fact, the pictures shown at the boat show were of a 336 wonderfully flying it. The salesman said I needed no additional equipment. I'm sorry to say my wife and I have been unable to fly it yet as it seems I need some type of additional rigging gear. Initially I realized I needed a separate halyard which I installed. Does anyone have any experience in rigging a 336. You can't imagine how difficult it is trying to control the sheets directly to the winches that are installed aft. Shouldn't there be some type of block located aft of the aft winches? If so, where should they be attached. Also where is the tack suppose to attach. I tried the stemhead but this offers no control for raising or lowering the sail to fill or tighten it. Anyway we have failed to sail this in all our attemps and I think it is because we don't have it rigged and we would love to see this this fly before we get completely fed up and sell this boat. We have done wonderfull things with and to our Hunter 336 and would like to figure this out.
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flying the kite
On our 340, we fly the assym. spin. in the following way: 1)buy a spin sock from atn. Absolutely invalueable! 2) snatch blocks attach to the stern pulpits and lead forward to either the winches on the coaming or on the cabin top 3)secure your bow anchor firmly with a strong pin .I also fashioned a set of teak blocks to fit on either side of the bruce anchor to keep it from rolling side to side. 4) Attach a snatch block to the anchor via a "d" ring. 5) lead the spin tack through the snatch block and to the nearest cleat. Leave the tack pennant about 7 ft. long in order to adjust the height off the deck. 6) when you jibe, douse the spin in the sock first, turn theboat then bring the spin. on the other side of the forstay. Re lead the sheet and bring the sock up. You can also jibe the sheets around the forstay if you have a good helmsman. With the kids as my sailing crew, it's easier and safer to bring ther sock down prior to the jibe. The above description sounds a bit involved, but really does work. I wouldn't use the chute for cruising in winds over 15 knts. Hope this helps!
On our 340, we fly the assym. spin. in the following way: 1)buy a spin sock from atn. Absolutely invalueable! 2) snatch blocks attach to the stern pulpits and lead forward to either the winches on the coaming or on the cabin top 3)secure your bow anchor firmly with a strong pin .I also fashioned a set of teak blocks to fit on either side of the bruce anchor to keep it from rolling side to side. 4) Attach a snatch block to the anchor via a "d" ring. 5) lead the spin tack through the snatch block and to the nearest cleat. Leave the tack pennant about 7 ft. long in order to adjust the height off the deck. 6) when you jibe, douse the spin in the sock first, turn theboat then bring the spin. on the other side of the forstay. Re lead the sheet and bring the sock up. You can also jibe the sheets around the forstay if you have a good helmsman. With the kids as my sailing crew, it's easier and safer to bring ther sock down prior to the jibe. The above description sounds a bit involved, but really does work. I wouldn't use the chute for cruising in winds over 15 knts. Hope this helps!
Uh, Capt. Mike....
You actually attach spin sheet blocks to the pulpit? That is really rather frightening. My blocks are firmly attached to my toerail aft of the secondaries. And you want him to attach the tack to the anchor?? I suggest attaching the tack to the stem fitting instead. One good gust and the anchor may unexpectedly deploy.. An even better move would be to trade that Asym for a real chute with a pole. MC
You actually attach spin sheet blocks to the pulpit? That is really rather frightening. My blocks are firmly attached to my toerail aft of the secondaries. And you want him to attach the tack to the anchor?? I suggest attaching the tack to the stem fitting instead. One good gust and the anchor may unexpectedly deploy.. An even better move would be to trade that Asym for a real chute with a pole. MC
each to his own
Michael, in response to your concerns: 1)Hunter placed attachment points on the 340 as part of the stern pulpit for the snatch blocks. 2) The anchor is locked in by teak blocks, anchor pin and a cunningham hook through the chain attached to the nearest cleat.3) given the facts of who the crew is (in my case the wife or kids), the asymm. chute is much safer. Again, I would not recommend in winds over 15 knts. I have flown the chute this way for the past two seasons(never at night) on some long passages without problems. I don't know if the 336 has the same attachment points as the 340 for the snatch blocks, but the toe rail does not exist on the 340. Capt. Mike
Michael, in response to your concerns: 1)Hunter placed attachment points on the 340 as part of the stern pulpit for the snatch blocks. 2) The anchor is locked in by teak blocks, anchor pin and a cunningham hook through the chain attached to the nearest cleat.3) given the facts of who the crew is (in my case the wife or kids), the asymm. chute is much safer. Again, I would not recommend in winds over 15 knts. I have flown the chute this way for the past two seasons(never at night) on some long passages without problems. I don't know if the 336 has the same attachment points as the 340 for the snatch blocks, but the toe rail does not exist on the 340. Capt. Mike
Capt Mike - thanks
Ok, well, it sounds as though your setup is working well for you. I guess I'm just a bit conservative about these things. I do a lot of racing, and I've seen a lot of blown-up equipment and a lot of injuries resulting from that..and that was with everything properly rigged. I think people tend to underestimate the forces a chute can put on a rig. MC
Ok, well, it sounds as though your setup is working well for you. I guess I'm just a bit conservative about these things. I do a lot of racing, and I've seen a lot of blown-up equipment and a lot of injuries resulting from that..and that was with everything properly rigged. I think people tend to underestimate the forces a chute can put on a rig. MC
you're absolutely correct
Michael, your last statement on flying the chute, whether asymm. or symm a most important concept! Spinnakers can be very dangerous,causing broaches, pinning the boat on her side, throw people off the deck, etc. Try having the chute wrap around the forstay a few times after the autopilot decided to jibe in 30 knt. sustained 20 nm offshore in 10 ft. seas. Don,t try this at home! Fly these things under the best of conditions only ,especially with s shorthanded crew. Thanks for your thoughts. Capt. Mike
Michael, your last statement on flying the chute, whether asymm. or symm a most important concept! Spinnakers can be very dangerous,causing broaches, pinning the boat on her side, throw people off the deck, etc. Try having the chute wrap around the forstay a few times after the autopilot decided to jibe in 30 knt. sustained 20 nm offshore in 10 ft. seas. Don,t try this at home! Fly these things under the best of conditions only ,especially with s shorthanded crew. Thanks for your thoughts. Capt. Mike
Cruising Chute
Leon, I agree with Capt Mike, there should be a ring welded to the side of the stern rail that is there specifically for this purpose (at least there waas on my 336). One way to attach the tack is to attach to the bow ring just below the anchor roller and attach a block, or blocks to this line ( you can make this a 2:1 or 3:1 purchase). Then run the tack line through this block and tackle arrangement. My dockmate used this arrangement on his 280 and seemed to work well. I hope this helps. Paul Bednarzyk S/V Knot Again
Leon, I agree with Capt Mike, there should be a ring welded to the side of the stern rail that is there specifically for this purpose (at least there waas on my 336). One way to attach the tack is to attach to the bow ring just below the anchor roller and attach a block, or blocks to this line ( you can make this a 2:1 or 3:1 purchase). Then run the tack line through this block and tackle arrangement. My dockmate used this arrangement on his 280 and seemed to work well. I hope this helps. Paul Bednarzyk S/V Knot Again
336 Spinnakor How to Fly - Paul
Paul, thanks for the information. As soon as I read your response I ran out and looked at may stern rail and saw a ring about halfway up the second post of the stern rails. Is this the ring, if so you have solved my problem. What type of block did you use. Again, thanks. Leon Maraist Lagniappe
Paul, thanks for the information. As soon as I read your response I ran out and looked at may stern rail and saw a ring about halfway up the second post of the stern rails. Is this the ring, if so you have solved my problem. What type of block did you use. Again, thanks. Leon Maraist Lagniappe
Yep!
Leon, Those are exactly the rings I was refering to. I suppose you could use a snatch block, though my understanding is that they were not really designed to take the load through a nearly 180 degree turn. Nearly any of the quality blocks could be used, you might check the Harken catalog (or website), but I don't have a specific recommendation for this application. I hope this helps. Paul Bednarzyk S/V Knot Again
Leon, Those are exactly the rings I was refering to. I suppose you could use a snatch block, though my understanding is that they were not really designed to take the load through a nearly 180 degree turn. Nearly any of the quality blocks could be used, you might check the Harken catalog (or website), but I don't have a specific recommendation for this application. I hope this helps. Paul Bednarzyk S/V Knot Again
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