I have the Ray Marine ST- 60 Speed, water temp through hull transducer. It's the black plastic one w/ the little paddle wheel in the bottom. I cleaned it out. It spins free but still doesnt seem to work . Is it toast ?
Speed Transducer Isn't Working
- Thread starter Patrick17430
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try spinning it manually while connected, and see if you get a reading. Sometimes paddlewheel sensors get just enough corrosion\growth on the axle to prevent spinning, especially at low speeds. Even if it spins free manually, it may still be catching while submerged. If the manual test sends data, then you need a new axle pin. Could be $5 instead of $200, not to mention the re-wiring.
Honestly, if the reading is not going to be very dependable, put in the plug and forget it.
One less thing to fret over that I neither want or need.
I had mine plugged for a year... and it works! It simply is not worth keeping clean. I have GPS and I have apparent wind. If I can't guess true wind from that or my senses... well the first (how many) years of America's Cup racers got by all right. If I am curious about tide, I look at a crab pot or marker.
One less thing to fret over that I neither want or need.
Testing the Speed Sensor portion of the Raymarine ST60 transducer:
Verify that the transducer’s paddle wheel is free of marine growth and rotates freely on its shaft
Power down the instrument
Disconnect the GREEN and SHIELD transducer leads from the instrument display or instrument pod.
Connect a multimeter to the GREEN and SHIELD transducer leads and configure the multimeter to measure continuity or resistance.
Slowly rotate the transducer paddle wheel by hand. Note that as the paddlewheel is rotated, the multimeter should alternate between an open circuit and a closed circuit with each quarter turn. As such one complete revolution of the paddle wheel should open and close the circuit four times.
If the multimeter respond as indicated above, then the speed sensor element of the transducer would be functional. If not, then the transducer has failed and should be replaced.
Verify that the transducer’s paddle wheel is free of marine growth and rotates freely on its shaft
Power down the instrument
Disconnect the GREEN and SHIELD transducer leads from the instrument display or instrument pod.
Connect a multimeter to the GREEN and SHIELD transducer leads and configure the multimeter to measure continuity or resistance.
Slowly rotate the transducer paddle wheel by hand. Note that as the paddlewheel is rotated, the multimeter should alternate between an open circuit and a closed circuit with each quarter turn. As such one complete revolution of the paddle wheel should open and close the circuit four times.
If the multimeter respond as indicated above, then the speed sensor element of the transducer would be functional. If not, then the transducer has failed and should be replaced.
How do you know if transducer is totally clean
This may be a silly question, but how does one know that the transducer is clean enough to spin completely free without any drag?
I have pulled mine, soaked it in vinegar, cleaned it with a Q-Tip, but I wonder if it is spinning at the speed that is should?
Mike
This may be a silly question, but how does one know that the transducer is clean enough to spin completely free without any drag?
I have pulled mine, soaked it in vinegar, cleaned it with a Q-Tip, but I wonder if it is spinning at the speed that is should?
Mike
If it spins completely freely without any resistance when you "flick" it, it's probably as free as its gonna get, and you can assume it's reading ok. I had to replace mine last year when it went bad (wasn't obvious where the problem was; sent the instrument head back to Raymarine, tested OK, they sent me a new transducer and wiring at no cost and it worked fine, but what a bitch running the new wiring since you aren't supposed to cut and splice it). I now take the transducer out and insert the plug every time I leave the boat, so keeping it clean is not a problem.
Mine stopped working this summer here in Michigan. I pulled it out and cleaned the zebra mussels from it. It would work when spun by hand but after reinstalled in the boat it would not work. After the boat was hauled out this fall I found a very large zebra mussel attached to the through hull ring that was blocking the wheel from turning.
If you could clean it with a Q-tip, it wasn't "dirty". "Dirty" is when you need a stiff bristle brush and may have to push out the axle to get out the slime and marine growth. I don't even bother installing mine for a day sail, but will do it for a weekend or longer. In the summer, a week in the water is enough to clog it up.
Transducer paint
Has anyone found a paint or treatment that works most of the season. I have found that the warmer water of August seemed to cause us the most problems. I have used MDR paint but it honestly doesn't work too great (not sure if it works at all) - but I know it is intended more for depth transducers (doesn't work too great there either).
Not so much "most of a season," but rather works at all!
When we install new paddles we coat them with antifouling paint. With my broken leg and reduced sailing time, it got gummed up pretty bad. Weekly use always had ours working.
The best solution is to keep using your boat regularly. :dance: Mileage WILL vary based on the water you're boat is in.
Take out
I take mine out and put the blank plug in if I think I will not use the boat for a while,once in a while I let it soak in vinegar to clean it while out.
Nick
I take mine out and put the blank plug in if I think I will not use the boat for a while,once in a while I let it soak in vinegar to clean it while out.
Nick
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