After reading the posts in trying to solve Mr Marvel's overheating Yanmar. Is there some type of preventative maintenance to prevent the buildup in the exchanger? I have replaced the coolant, but should I run some type of special flush thru before? Thanks.
Speaking of Overheating, any prevention?
- Thread starter rfrye1
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Nope ... Regular maintenance is required.
You cant change 'chemistry' - If you 'boil' seawater its going to drop its carbonate load. Just keep a record of the operating temperature, and the volumetric output (bucket and stopwatch). If you have a record of the operating parameters - youll know long before a 'problem' starts to happen. Descale when necessary, change the impeller and exchanger zincs and clean the strainer yearly. Use distilled or demineralized water on the 'fresh water' side if your water is 'hard'. Other than following your maintenance manual, thats about it! Just get to KNOW your engine. Your record keeping and regular maintenance will keep you .... "happy".
You cant change 'chemistry' - If you 'boil' seawater its going to drop its carbonate load. Just keep a record of the operating temperature, and the volumetric output (bucket and stopwatch). If you have a record of the operating parameters - youll know long before a 'problem' starts to happen. Descale when necessary, change the impeller and exchanger zincs and clean the strainer yearly. Use distilled or demineralized water on the 'fresh water' side if your water is 'hard'. Other than following your maintenance manual, thats about it! Just get to KNOW your engine. Your record keeping and regular maintenance will keep you .... "happy".
Bob
Replacing the coolant has no effect on the scale we're talking about. That scale forms on the seawater side, from seawater. And fresh water cooled Yanmars don't have zincs.
Replacing the coolant has no effect on the scale we're talking about. That scale forms on the seawater side, from seawater. And fresh water cooled Yanmars don't have zincs.
Prestone radiator cleaner
It uses citric acid which is non toxic once diluted in water. Citric acid is a chelator that means that it binds divalent cations and keeps them in solution. The divalent cations are what cause most of our problems. Calcium and magnesium are the two most prone to precipitate in our heat exchangers. Ideally you would dilute this in distilled water and let it set in the exchanger for a while. Citric acid works best at a basic(high) pH. Oxalic acid will work but is more toxic and may attack the metal of your cooling system. Oxalic is one of the active ingredients in lime-away. It is very effective in cleaning the pipes connected to the head and holding tank. Tom
It uses citric acid which is non toxic once diluted in water. Citric acid is a chelator that means that it binds divalent cations and keeps them in solution. The divalent cations are what cause most of our problems. Calcium and magnesium are the two most prone to precipitate in our heat exchangers. Ideally you would dilute this in distilled water and let it set in the exchanger for a while. Citric acid works best at a basic(high) pH. Oxalic acid will work but is more toxic and may attack the metal of your cooling system. Oxalic is one of the active ingredients in lime-away. It is very effective in cleaning the pipes connected to the head and holding tank. Tom
Maybe I'm messed up...
but how can an citric acid be high in PH? Seems to me that by definition an acid (any acid) has a PH less than 7.0. When the PH is raised higher then 7.0 it becomes a basic (or an akaline)and is no longer an acid.
but how can an citric acid be high in PH? Seems to me that by definition an acid (any acid) has a PH less than 7.0. When the PH is raised higher then 7.0 it becomes a basic (or an akaline)and is no longer an acid.
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