I have a Hunter 29.5 with a Guest charger. While at the dock, I keep the charger on at all times. It has a green and red light (guessing the red light is the overload alarm). The green light is always on, so, I THINK I am ok...never had any problems in the past. My bilge pump runs on both AC/DC, and I usually keep the battery switch in the OFF position when I am not at the boat. I have checked the voltage on the batteries from time to time and they check out fine. Do I need to be concerned? Thanks in advance.
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Ted
Red light may be "polarity"
On my boat lights are part of electrical board and the green indicates A/C is on while red is indicator of wrong polarity or ground from shorepower. I would guess yours to be same.
On my boat lights are part of electrical board and the green indicates A/C is on while red is indicator of wrong polarity or ground from shorepower. I would guess yours to be same.
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Pete
quest battery charger
Matt. I could not find a web site for Guest but they are located at Research Parkway in Meriden CT. I'm sure a phone call to them and you would get the correct answer or a owners manual would tell you. I am puzzled by your bilge pump working on both ac and dc.I would be very surprized if it operated on both but rather dc (12 volt) and is kept charged (supplied) by the ac (120 volt) chargers. Your bilge pump is (or should be) wired direct to 12 volt power source (battery direct or back of battery switch). I suspect that you have nothing to worry about and that everything is O.K. with your set up.
Matt. I could not find a web site for Guest but they are located at Research Parkway in Meriden CT. I'm sure a phone call to them and you would get the correct answer or a owners manual would tell you. I am puzzled by your bilge pump working on both ac and dc.I would be very surprized if it operated on both but rather dc (12 volt) and is kept charged (supplied) by the ac (120 volt) chargers. Your bilge pump is (or should be) wired direct to 12 volt power source (battery direct or back of battery switch). I suspect that you have nothing to worry about and that everything is O.K. with your set up.
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David
Guest Charger Lights & Website
Tim, I have a portable Guest Charger and it also has a red light and a green light: When only the red light is on, it is deep charging; when both lights are on, it has slowed down the charge rate; and when only the green light is on; it is trickle charging. The website below is for the parent company; not any datasheets that I could find, but there was contact information. Happy Sailing! David J. 'Wild Goose'
Tim, I have a portable Guest Charger and it also has a red light and a green light: When only the red light is on, it is deep charging; when both lights are on, it has slowed down the charge rate; and when only the green light is on; it is trickle charging. The website below is for the parent company; not any datasheets that I could find, but there was contact information. Happy Sailing! David J. 'Wild Goose'
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Gord May
Batt. Charger Timer
If you feel you must leave the Battery Charger connected, you might consider installing an appliance time in the A/C supply line (to the charger). This will cycle the charger “On & Off” at whatever percentage you consider prudent to keep your batteries topped off. As little as 1 hour per day might suffice to replace the power consumed by your Bilge Pump. As others have said, the Bilge Pump should be connected, through a Fuse or Circuit Braker, directly to the Battery. The Charger should have both A/C & DC Circuit Protection. Regards, Gord
If you feel you must leave the Battery Charger connected, you might consider installing an appliance time in the A/C supply line (to the charger). This will cycle the charger “On & Off” at whatever percentage you consider prudent to keep your batteries topped off. As little as 1 hour per day might suffice to replace the power consumed by your Bilge Pump. As others have said, the Bilge Pump should be connected, through a Fuse or Circuit Braker, directly to the Battery. The Charger should have both A/C & DC Circuit Protection. Regards, Gord
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Tim McCarty
Thanks guys...
Just realized that I need to keep at least one battery switched on and the master switch on (on my control panel) for the bilge pump. Having just launched the boat for Springtime, I am always a bit fuzzy as to what is what. Hopefully, when I visit the boat tomorrow, it will still be floating (although, never had much of a problem with a wet bilge).
Just realized that I need to keep at least one battery switched on and the master switch on (on my control panel) for the bilge pump. Having just launched the boat for Springtime, I am always a bit fuzzy as to what is what. Hopefully, when I visit the boat tomorrow, it will still be floating (although, never had much of a problem with a wet bilge).
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Debra B
guest fried 2 sets of batteries
I had a guest charger (actually 2 - I took the first one back for replacement, and the 2nd one I just returned). After replacing 2 sets of batteries (well the first set needed replacing anyway) I went with another brand. If you keep the guest, get the timer and run it a few hours per day. (of course if a leak develops while you are away from the boat, your batteries may be drained before the charger comes back on. Invest in an alarm)
I had a guest charger (actually 2 - I took the first one back for replacement, and the 2nd one I just returned). After replacing 2 sets of batteries (well the first set needed replacing anyway) I went with another brand. If you keep the guest, get the timer and run it a few hours per day. (of course if a leak develops while you are away from the boat, your batteries may be drained before the charger comes back on. Invest in an alarm)
Should not need the battery switch on.
Tim: If you are properly wired, you should NOT need to have either battery on for the bilge pump to work. They are normally wired so that they turn on automatically when the float switch reaches a specified position. You can also turn on the bilge pump manually with the switch on the DC panel. If you are not wired this way, you should be.
Tim: If you are properly wired, you should NOT need to have either battery on for the bilge pump to work. They are normally wired so that they turn on automatically when the float switch reaches a specified position. You can also turn on the bilge pump manually with the switch on the DC panel. If you are not wired this way, you should be.
Steve D. is right....
and, if you have more than one battery aboard, the pumps should be wired to the two largest batteries, with independant fuses, switches, floats and hoses. Redundancy is a wonderful thing!!
and, if you have more than one battery aboard, the pumps should be wired to the two largest batteries, with independant fuses, switches, floats and hoses. Redundancy is a wonderful thing!!
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Shippy
Steve D. is right - Part II
Tim, I also have the same setup and on my 29.5. I use to leave the shorepower connected during the week (typically a week-end sailor) but often found the fuse tripped when I returned on Friday nights. Asking around I found that the folks at the marina often do this to prevent over-charging. So lately I haven't been leaving the shore power connected during the week and I turn the batteries to off. But the bilge pump still works (hence it is directly wired to the battery). I can hit the manual bilge pump switch at the overhead panel and it work with no shore power connected and batteries to OFF. If yours doesn't work the same, I would look to rewire it directly.
Tim, I also have the same setup and on my 29.5. I use to leave the shorepower connected during the week (typically a week-end sailor) but often found the fuse tripped when I returned on Friday nights. Asking around I found that the folks at the marina often do this to prevent over-charging. So lately I haven't been leaving the shore power connected during the week and I turn the batteries to off. But the bilge pump still works (hence it is directly wired to the battery). I can hit the manual bilge pump switch at the overhead panel and it work with no shore power connected and batteries to OFF. If yours doesn't work the same, I would look to rewire it directly.
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Jim A
WHY !!!
do you keep it on all the time! Your cooking your batteries! NOT REQUIRED, unless you have already damages them!
do you keep it on all the time! Your cooking your batteries! NOT REQUIRED, unless you have already damages them!
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Tom S
Jim A, You won't "cook" your batteries if you have
a GOOD 3 stage battery charger. A GOOD three stage charger (Like Xantrex Smart Charger) has a float stage that turn off current flow when the batteries get to a certain level and will only 'kick on' when the voltage drops below a certain level. Its perfectly fine and in actuality, will keep the batteries lasting longer. Over the last 8 years, I've had 2 different boats plugged in full time at a marina with the charger always on and haven't 'cooked' a battery, but I do have a GOOD 3 stage battery charger. A cheapo auto charger will cook you batteries though, they are not smart enough to regulate the charging regimine. The reason I leave my 110VAC plugged in and battery charger on, is because I leave food (and cold beers) in the fridge and leave that on. If I didn't have the charger it would drain my batteries down. And Shippy, if my marina (Brewers Yacht Haven) came around and did that (Turn off the power to boats) They would have a MUNITY on their hands as hundreds of boaters would be storming the main office demanding and explaination and retribution.
a GOOD 3 stage battery charger. A GOOD three stage charger (Like Xantrex Smart Charger) has a float stage that turn off current flow when the batteries get to a certain level and will only 'kick on' when the voltage drops below a certain level. Its perfectly fine and in actuality, will keep the batteries lasting longer. Over the last 8 years, I've had 2 different boats plugged in full time at a marina with the charger always on and haven't 'cooked' a battery, but I do have a GOOD 3 stage battery charger. A cheapo auto charger will cook you batteries though, they are not smart enough to regulate the charging regimine. The reason I leave my 110VAC plugged in and battery charger on, is because I leave food (and cold beers) in the fridge and leave that on. If I didn't have the charger it would drain my batteries down. And Shippy, if my marina (Brewers Yacht Haven) came around and did that (Turn off the power to boats) They would have a MUNITY on their hands as hundreds of boaters would be storming the main office demanding and explaination and retribution.
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Tim McCarty
Ok, guys...I do leave the charger on, however...
I have been doing this for the past two seasons, and, thus far, my batteries are still keeping a consistent charge (knock on wood). I haven't cooked them yet, but, I guess that's always a possiblity. Sunday, I did happen to switch my A-battery on, and the main, however, I am going down tomorrow to varify if in fact my bilge pump is hot-wired to the battery bank (which I think it is). Anyway, thanks for all of the help and recomendations...
I have been doing this for the past two seasons, and, thus far, my batteries are still keeping a consistent charge (knock on wood). I haven't cooked them yet, but, I guess that's always a possiblity. Sunday, I did happen to switch my A-battery on, and the main, however, I am going down tomorrow to varify if in fact my bilge pump is hot-wired to the battery bank (which I think it is). Anyway, thanks for all of the help and recomendations...
24 x 7 charging should be better....
Jim: I would have to agree with Tom. IF you have have a good battery charger this should not be a problem. If you are using flooded batteries you must have a regular maintenance schedule to check the electrolyte level. Not having the propper level is what will cook them. Letting batteries discharge is probably the worst thing for them. Check out the battery sites. How many discharge cycles can your batteries take.
Jim: I would have to agree with Tom. IF you have have a good battery charger this should not be a problem. If you are using flooded batteries you must have a regular maintenance schedule to check the electrolyte level. Not having the propper level is what will cook them. Letting batteries discharge is probably the worst thing for them. Check out the battery sites. How many discharge cycles can your batteries take.
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Jim A
Tom S Cool!
That's great for you boat! All that stay electricity corroding your vessel. And all for cool beer! I am sure the guys in the next slip love you!
That's great for you boat! All that stay electricity corroding your vessel. And all for cool beer! I am sure the guys in the next slip love you!
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Chris Burti
24/7
I have the stock charger that Catalina installs which enjoys a reputation for cooking batteries. I leave the refer running which is recommended for its welfare and that creates enough load that I have no cooking issues. I check the water level regularly and need to add very little. I have checked for stray current with a special immersible test lead meter that the marina has as a precaution...again no problems. If your boat is properly wired and the system is in good condition, you should not be having any 'stray' current. Fundamentally, electricity doesn't 'get' loose, it is 'let' loose.
I have the stock charger that Catalina installs which enjoys a reputation for cooking batteries. I leave the refer running which is recommended for its welfare and that creates enough load that I have no cooking issues. I check the water level regularly and need to add very little. I have checked for stray current with a special immersible test lead meter that the marina has as a precaution...again no problems. If your boat is properly wired and the system is in good condition, you should not be having any 'stray' current. Fundamentally, electricity doesn't 'get' loose, it is 'let' loose.
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Tom S
Jim A. Sorry it might be happening to YOUR boat
But NO it doesn't happen to mine. My boat is up to spec and to ABYC and other marine standards. The wiring is in top shape and I have a galvanic isolator. There is NO stray currents corroding my vessel I can gaurantee you that. I know my vessel and wiring **very** well, from where my "green wire" is and whether its hooked up to my boats DC negative ground, to how much current is back flowing out through the galvanic isolator. Why can't you imagine that a properly set up system can work? And NOT cause the problems you might have. I'm not saying that there isn't a lot of poorly set up systems. They usually are these older runabouts or sailboats with wires hanging everywhere, but that doesn't mean we can't have a good working electrical system that we don't have to be afraid of....... And lets take that sarcastic and totally INCORRECT comment you made about my slip mates having to worry about corrosion even further !! There isn't a snowballs chance in hell about any issues with my boat causing ANYONEs boat to get accelerated galvanic corrosion. You see I have a "Drive Saver" on my shaft, which I put on to extend my shaft for an Autoprop clearance, but it does do double duty and isolates my boat. BUT !! Even if I didn't no one would have to worry because I know where and how my green wire is tied. Do YOU ? Tell you what jim a, if you are worried about your boat and galvanic corrosion maybe you should keep your boat on a mooring. or better yet, just haul it after every time you go motoring out and back when you take it out for a day. Making comments like you do tend to scare off the uninformed and create panic among people. It reminds me of people that continue to say leaving a battery on concrete will drain the battery and you shouldn't do it. Yes there was some small basis in fact a long time ago, but its been repeated so often, that people tend to believe it as gospel now..
But NO it doesn't happen to mine. My boat is up to spec and to ABYC and other marine standards. The wiring is in top shape and I have a galvanic isolator. There is NO stray currents corroding my vessel I can gaurantee you that. I know my vessel and wiring **very** well, from where my "green wire" is and whether its hooked up to my boats DC negative ground, to how much current is back flowing out through the galvanic isolator. Why can't you imagine that a properly set up system can work? And NOT cause the problems you might have. I'm not saying that there isn't a lot of poorly set up systems. They usually are these older runabouts or sailboats with wires hanging everywhere, but that doesn't mean we can't have a good working electrical system that we don't have to be afraid of....... And lets take that sarcastic and totally INCORRECT comment you made about my slip mates having to worry about corrosion even further !! There isn't a snowballs chance in hell about any issues with my boat causing ANYONEs boat to get accelerated galvanic corrosion. You see I have a "Drive Saver" on my shaft, which I put on to extend my shaft for an Autoprop clearance, but it does do double duty and isolates my boat. BUT !! Even if I didn't no one would have to worry because I know where and how my green wire is tied. Do YOU ? Tell you what jim a, if you are worried about your boat and galvanic corrosion maybe you should keep your boat on a mooring. or better yet, just haul it after every time you go motoring out and back when you take it out for a day. Making comments like you do tend to scare off the uninformed and create panic among people. It reminds me of people that continue to say leaving a battery on concrete will drain the battery and you shouldn't do it. Yes there was some small basis in fact a long time ago, but its been repeated so often, that people tend to believe it as gospel now..
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J.B. Dyer
Xantrex
Last year in July due to an incident with some lightning that hit a boat a couple of slips down from mine, I lost my battery charger and all four batteries. I shopped around and after many comparisons decided on the Xantrex True Charge 40. Being a user of flooded batteries, I was in the habit of checking water levels a couple of times a month. Since the installation of the Tru Charge, the batteries stay fully charged and I haven't had to put one drop of water in any of the batteries since July. I can't say as to the other "smart chargers" on the market, but the Tru Charge is high on my list of things that I would buy again. It was a little expensive but the lack of continous maintenance on batteries makes it worth it. By the way, at just about every marina that I've been at, it's more the practice to keep shore power hooked up than it is not. So many bigger boats these days have refrigeration and keep food items as well as drinks on board. It's not hard to detect current in the water and also not hard to identify the boat that's putting it there. Tom S. Those drive savers are nice, aren't they??
Last year in July due to an incident with some lightning that hit a boat a couple of slips down from mine, I lost my battery charger and all four batteries. I shopped around and after many comparisons decided on the Xantrex True Charge 40. Being a user of flooded batteries, I was in the habit of checking water levels a couple of times a month. Since the installation of the Tru Charge, the batteries stay fully charged and I haven't had to put one drop of water in any of the batteries since July. I can't say as to the other "smart chargers" on the market, but the Tru Charge is high on my list of things that I would buy again. It was a little expensive but the lack of continous maintenance on batteries makes it worth it. By the way, at just about every marina that I've been at, it's more the practice to keep shore power hooked up than it is not. So many bigger boats these days have refrigeration and keep food items as well as drinks on board. It's not hard to detect current in the water and also not hard to identify the boat that's putting it there. Tom S. Those drive savers are nice, aren't they??
We have had a Tech Pro 4 charger on our
boat now for 2 years. We're always hooked up to shore power at the dock. We're very happy with it. It out performs Guest and costs many boat bucks less. See link.
boat now for 2 years. We're always hooked up to shore power at the dock. We're very happy with it. It out performs Guest and costs many boat bucks less. See link.
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Jim A
Nothing happening to my boat
I unplug when I leave the boat! Guess all the experts are wrong and you guys are right!
I unplug when I leave the boat! Guess all the experts are wrong and you guys are right!
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