Lot of good common-sense info here. Don't know where it came from but I thought I would share with our community. .
Getting your Boat Ready for the 2022 Sailing Season
Engine
Hoses and clamps; Hoses for deterioration clamps for security.
Get a couple of small wrenches for the two most used size hose-clamps. Put a small cup holder hook in the engine compartment and hang them there for accessability.
Corrosion; Check around heat exchanger fill cap for corrosion. Remove with a Scotch brite pad and brass brush, (not steel). Paint with the engine manufacturers color.
Check anti-freeze coolant, over flow bottle. Should be between High and Low. Add a mixture of 50% distilled water and anti freeze. If it is dark brown or sludgy, it may be time for a flush.
Drive belts, raw water pump and alternator. No more than 1/8" deflection when pushed with a finger.
Get new ones from engine manufacturer, replace and use old ones for spares. I do this every season, cheap insurance. Same thing with raw water impeller, change out every year with the old one carried as a spare. (Keep an extra new one if the old one is damaged.) Also cam in pump for wear.
Check engine oil level; should not have changed last fall at winter lay-up as well as filter. Oil should be a golden color, if it is a milky color there is water in the oil, and it must be drained and the source of the water found.
Check the “oil level” in your transmission. (Oil is used in most Yanmar transmissions, usually 30 wt, not 10W30). Check your engine manual for type and recommendations. If it looks dirty, change it.
Check prop stuffing box. If it was snugged down for the winter lay-up, loosen and check the water flow. Should be about 3 drops a minute, max when ran. If you have a dripless unit, “burp” it, to insure there is water flow. Lubricate the unit with a good water-proof grease.
Drain the fuel water separator, and change the fuel filters, using one of the units you have in your emergency kit. Replace with a new unit to your kit as soon as possible.
Check air filter. Wipe down and if the foam type clean with soap and water. Cheap insurance, Use a paper towel to wipe the housing out. Oily carbon deposits may be a symptom of a exhaust cooling elbow blockage.
Lubricate the moving parts, linkages, etc with a good lubricant such as Boeshield or McLube.
Finally wipe down engine and engine pan with a good de-greaser. Follow-up with fabric softener and water mix, 50-50 to eliminate any diesel smell.
Hint: Feminine products make excellent engine oil pads and cost less than the Marine engine bay Pads.
Check and top off batteries with distilled water. Look into battery boxes to insure batteries have not leaked over the winter.
Check connections at the batteries and at the 12VDC bus bar for secure connections. Lubricate w/ ant- corrosion conditioning spray
Turn on , (power-up) your instrument displays with back-lights set on high for about 30 minutes to get rid of any condensation. Keep the unit covered to maximize warmth.
Check the 120VAC plug at the pedestal and the boat to see if any arcing has occurred. (This is a very serious condition. Shut down the 120VAC system until the cause has been found).
Test all of the 12 volt powered items, this includes interior and exterior lights, pumps, (bilge and fresh water), fridge, and VHF radio.
If your boat is 1984 or older check to see if all of the 120VAC sockets are protected by a GFCI. (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter). Only one is needed at the start of the circuit with all other sockets wired in parallel. May save your life when you dry your hair in the head after taking a shower.
Run a tablespoon of vegetable or peanut oil through the head to oil and lubricate the gaskets and leathers.
Check manual bilge pump for operation. Check diaphragm for age cracks and seal deterioration. (Run about a gallon of clean fresh water through the pump to check integrity. )
Give the hatch and port hinges a squirt if silicone lube to aid in ease of operation. Wipe down seals with Vaseline to keep them pliable.
Pull up floor boards, vacuum and wipe out with a rag soaked in Pine-Sol or equivalent. Hair and dust-bunnies will clog bilge pumps! Keep any money found for new boat.
Flush potable water system at least 3X before using. Use bleach sparingly, rinse until water is sweet.
Check the operation of all the seacocks and check security of the hose clamps. Hoses below the water line should be double clamped and only 304/ 316 SS clamps used. Carry a small magnet when you check clamps. The tightening screw should be 304 / 316 SS as well as the clamp body.
Secure the soft wood safety plugs to the sea-cock handle for easy access.
Check “O” rings for wear / deterioration on Fuel / Water / and Waste deck fills. Replace at first sign of deterioration.
Vacuum or blow out vents; fuel, water, holding tank. Spiders like them for setting up shop
Check propane vent to insure the vent is clear. (Propane is heavier than air and will settle at lowest point) Check solenoid for operation. This allows the flow of propane to be stopped with out turning off the valve.
Uncover sails and remove all the dirt dauber nests before you have friends out for a sail.
Lubricate sail slides and sail track with McLube, Have mate hoist the sail and check each slide.
Check lubrication requirements for the roller furler. Some units specify WD-40, others use a silicone lubricant.
Check sea-hood for ease of movement. Again Lube, lube, lube.
Take cover off emergency Tiller connection. Fit tiller and move rudder thru the full range of movement.
Give a shot of WD -40 to your rigging turn-buckles. WD-40 is a (W)ater (D)isplacement formulae 40. Will help fight corrosion.
Finally sight up the mast to determine a true straight mast. Mast should not curve off to port or starboard side. Check rigging with a tensiometer and keep a record of the readings so you can gauge and compensate for rigging stretch. Slack shrouds on the leeward side of the vessel must be corrected as tacking will “shock” the rigging. Never have the rigging “too loose”
Safety Equipment At the start of the season. ➘
Change or install new batteries in smoke detector and CO monitor.
Check indicator on SOSUSPENDERS. Renew CO2 cartridge if past the date.
Use Life jackets at night and single handing. Have them equipped with strobes.
Get a life ladder and install it every time you get on the boat, even at the dock.
Getting your Boat Ready for the 2022 Sailing Season
Engine
Hoses and clamps; Hoses for deterioration clamps for security.
Get a couple of small wrenches for the two most used size hose-clamps. Put a small cup holder hook in the engine compartment and hang them there for accessability.
Corrosion; Check around heat exchanger fill cap for corrosion. Remove with a Scotch brite pad and brass brush, (not steel). Paint with the engine manufacturers color.
Check anti-freeze coolant, over flow bottle. Should be between High and Low. Add a mixture of 50% distilled water and anti freeze. If it is dark brown or sludgy, it may be time for a flush.
Drive belts, raw water pump and alternator. No more than 1/8" deflection when pushed with a finger.
Get new ones from engine manufacturer, replace and use old ones for spares. I do this every season, cheap insurance. Same thing with raw water impeller, change out every year with the old one carried as a spare. (Keep an extra new one if the old one is damaged.) Also cam in pump for wear.
Check engine oil level; should not have changed last fall at winter lay-up as well as filter. Oil should be a golden color, if it is a milky color there is water in the oil, and it must be drained and the source of the water found.
Check the “oil level” in your transmission. (Oil is used in most Yanmar transmissions, usually 30 wt, not 10W30). Check your engine manual for type and recommendations. If it looks dirty, change it.
Check prop stuffing box. If it was snugged down for the winter lay-up, loosen and check the water flow. Should be about 3 drops a minute, max when ran. If you have a dripless unit, “burp” it, to insure there is water flow. Lubricate the unit with a good water-proof grease.
Drain the fuel water separator, and change the fuel filters, using one of the units you have in your emergency kit. Replace with a new unit to your kit as soon as possible.
Check air filter. Wipe down and if the foam type clean with soap and water. Cheap insurance, Use a paper towel to wipe the housing out. Oily carbon deposits may be a symptom of a exhaust cooling elbow blockage.
Lubricate the moving parts, linkages, etc with a good lubricant such as Boeshield or McLube.
Finally wipe down engine and engine pan with a good de-greaser. Follow-up with fabric softener and water mix, 50-50 to eliminate any diesel smell.
Hint: Feminine products make excellent engine oil pads and cost less than the Marine engine bay Pads.
Check and top off batteries with distilled water. Look into battery boxes to insure batteries have not leaked over the winter.
Check connections at the batteries and at the 12VDC bus bar for secure connections. Lubricate w/ ant- corrosion conditioning spray
Turn on , (power-up) your instrument displays with back-lights set on high for about 30 minutes to get rid of any condensation. Keep the unit covered to maximize warmth.
Check the 120VAC plug at the pedestal and the boat to see if any arcing has occurred. (This is a very serious condition. Shut down the 120VAC system until the cause has been found).
Test all of the 12 volt powered items, this includes interior and exterior lights, pumps, (bilge and fresh water), fridge, and VHF radio.
If your boat is 1984 or older check to see if all of the 120VAC sockets are protected by a GFCI. (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter). Only one is needed at the start of the circuit with all other sockets wired in parallel. May save your life when you dry your hair in the head after taking a shower.
Run a tablespoon of vegetable or peanut oil through the head to oil and lubricate the gaskets and leathers.
Check manual bilge pump for operation. Check diaphragm for age cracks and seal deterioration. (Run about a gallon of clean fresh water through the pump to check integrity. )
Give the hatch and port hinges a squirt if silicone lube to aid in ease of operation. Wipe down seals with Vaseline to keep them pliable.
Pull up floor boards, vacuum and wipe out with a rag soaked in Pine-Sol or equivalent. Hair and dust-bunnies will clog bilge pumps! Keep any money found for new boat.
Flush potable water system at least 3X before using. Use bleach sparingly, rinse until water is sweet.
Check the operation of all the seacocks and check security of the hose clamps. Hoses below the water line should be double clamped and only 304/ 316 SS clamps used. Carry a small magnet when you check clamps. The tightening screw should be 304 / 316 SS as well as the clamp body.
Secure the soft wood safety plugs to the sea-cock handle for easy access.
Check “O” rings for wear / deterioration on Fuel / Water / and Waste deck fills. Replace at first sign of deterioration.
Vacuum or blow out vents; fuel, water, holding tank. Spiders like them for setting up shop
Check propane vent to insure the vent is clear. (Propane is heavier than air and will settle at lowest point) Check solenoid for operation. This allows the flow of propane to be stopped with out turning off the valve.
Uncover sails and remove all the dirt dauber nests before you have friends out for a sail.
Lubricate sail slides and sail track with McLube, Have mate hoist the sail and check each slide.
Check lubrication requirements for the roller furler. Some units specify WD-40, others use a silicone lubricant.
Check sea-hood for ease of movement. Again Lube, lube, lube.
Take cover off emergency Tiller connection. Fit tiller and move rudder thru the full range of movement.
Give a shot of WD -40 to your rigging turn-buckles. WD-40 is a (W)ater (D)isplacement formulae 40. Will help fight corrosion.
Finally sight up the mast to determine a true straight mast. Mast should not curve off to port or starboard side. Check rigging with a tensiometer and keep a record of the readings so you can gauge and compensate for rigging stretch. Slack shrouds on the leeward side of the vessel must be corrected as tacking will “shock” the rigging. Never have the rigging “too loose”
Safety Equipment At the start of the season. ➘
Change or install new batteries in smoke detector and CO monitor.
Check indicator on SOSUSPENDERS. Renew CO2 cartridge if past the date.
Use Life jackets at night and single handing. Have them equipped with strobes.
Get a life ladder and install it every time you get on the boat, even at the dock.
