Some dumb questions

Joe · Jun 22, 2017

Use the hook on the gooseneck. It's upside down in the picture... you will have to ease the outhaul/clew hook at the other end of the boom. You should have a strap ring on the luff reefing cringle to slip over the hook when reefing. This should help you understand the isomat spars reefing system.

CrispyCringle · Jun 22, 2017

The out haul and reefing line go through the boom and come out at the gooseneck. I have a cleat and a jam cleat on the mast, a foot or two below the gooseneck (may not be the correct term) to secure those two lines. The topping lift is supposed to go through the boom as well (according to the manual), but I tie it off at the end of the boom on a small cleat.

Tony_Furst · Jun 22, 2017

stackwalker said:
So after getting the mast up with ease after figuring out that you hook the mainsheet in the anchor locker, (thanks forum members), I'm focused on a couple other things.
First, I'm not sure where to attach the tack of the sail? The double hook on the gooseneck?

Second, where do I secure the reefing line? I'm used to there being a cleat on the bottom of the boom but I don't have one.

The tack of the sail attaches with a shackle to the eye in the gooseneck attachment to the mast. The rams head hook (double hook) is used for reefing the main. When reefed the hook is used to secure the reefing eye at the mast end of the sail. The reefing line exits the boom is routed through the lower reefing cringle and then ties to a pad eye on the boom. You need to use sail ties in the other two reef points once you reef the sail. I leave my two sail ties permanently installed on the two center reef points so that I don't have to look for them when I need them.

Do you have a copy of the 23.5 owners manual, there is a great diagram of how to route the lines for the jiffy reefing system.

Tony

Crazy Dave Condon · Jun 22, 2017

Joe is correct the hook end is upside down and the hooks are the attachement for the mainsail for both standard attachement and reefing. Follow the diagram for the reefing line to. Thank you Joe.

rgranger · Jun 22, 2017

Justin_NSA · Jun 22, 2017

rgranger did a great job illustrating the fixes. The horn needs to be turned around. The tack needs a shackle. The horn would not be advisable for a normal attachment. Every time you dropped the sail the chance of coming unhooked is great. Use it for reefing.

jon hansen · Jun 22, 2017

it appears that your gooseneck clevis pin is too small a diameter and too long. keeping it tight will slow wear.

Justin_NSA · Jun 22, 2017

Red and green. Something for port and stbd? Hard to tell from the pic.

Tony_Furst · Jun 22, 2017

stackwalker said:
Awesome! thanks for the illustration!

What are the two lines (red and green) coming out of the boom? those were both resting in the jam cleats on the gooseneck side of the boom. Are those both for the tack end of the sail? I could easily be mistaken, but I thought the reef line was the larger line coming out of the boom. Maybe that's just for the luff end? All my boats have been old junkers with roller reefing (boom reefing) systems so this is a little different for me.

There should be three lines in your boom, one line is for your jiffy reefing, usually the starboard most line, the center line is your outhaul, and the line to port is for your topping lift adjustment. The topping lift should be attached with a shackle of some fashion to the end of the adjuster line so that you have control of sail shape as well as the ability to lift the boom up and out of the way if your anchored and want the clearance.

rade0041 · Jun 22, 2017

stackwalker said:
What are the two lines (red and green) coming out of the boom? those were both resting in the jam cleats on the gooseneck side of the boom. Are those both for the tack end of the sail?

The Tack of the sail just gets attached at the gooseneck. I think I currently have mine on the hook but like someone said, it tends to fall off.

My H26 has room for 3 lines like that through the boom. One is the outhaul attached to the clew of the sail. For me that runs out the boom and then back to the cockpit. Another is the reefing line. I had trouble keeping that jam cleat from slipping so I added a cleat to the lower part of the mast for this one. My third one is not used but I suppose it could be used for a 2nd reef point if you have one or to adjust the topping lift. As for what line is what in your picture, I think you just have to figure it out from the size and length of each line.

rgranger · Jun 22, 2017

Your reef line is the one in the jam cleat. It goes to the clew end of the boom, exits and then goes up to the reef gromet (reef clew) and back into the boom. To reef you lower the main and insert the tack gromet in the reef claw at the mast, then simply pull that line near the jam cleat. it will cinch up your tack and.... done....

Crazy Dave Condon · Jun 23, 2017

Justin_nsa
I found if the foot of the main is tight enough with the correct tension on the outhaul, the horn turned up correctly will hold the main in place. By putting a shackle on attached to the fixed plate pop riveted onto the mast, it takes more time taking everything apart paticuraly if you are trailering a lot.

As for the topping lift, there are several things you can do. First with age the topping lift line coming thru the jam cleat at the head of the boom will eventually wear out and give causing that line to loosen up and boom falling. I use to put a stopper knot in the reef line so if it did prematurely fall, the knot would stop at the jam cleat lever keeping that boom from falling hurting someone or damaging the boat.

As for the topping lift, you could add a curved base turning block attached to the end of the boom either side leading forward aft to a cleat. There is another option that worked well for trailering to help eliminate time. In the small boat vang dept. there is a two turning block with a V jam on the back side. You could attach the block to the end of the boom and run the topping lift thru it by running it on the back side of the first or upper turning block and around the front side of the larger lower turning block and back up to the v jam. Worked very well. You could attach the V jam two turning block to the end of the reef line exiting the back of the boom (coming out of the boom). Food for thought

Crazy Dave Condon · Jun 26, 2017

Under most conditions, the boat will go up to the winch stand bow stop or roller but remember the boat is horizontal in the water and the trailer is at an angle downhill. So when you pull up the bow will not be against the roller. Drop the water out at the ramp. Pull the boat up to the parking area and demast. Then after the mast is down and secured, pull forward and brake. Each time get out and tighten up the winch strap till the bow is firmly against the bow roller on the winch stand or V rubber pad. Then attach the safety chain and tie down strap across the cockpit and secured to the trailer. Understand there are no dumb questions as most of us have been there long before you and you are simply learning...

Justin_NSA · Jun 26, 2017

Any play in your wheels? I don't think you need to regrease them again. It they are sealed they should be fine. How is the tow vehicle?

rgranger · Jun 26, 2017

Thanks for sharing the photo.... that is what it is all about....

Some dumb questions

.

Attachments

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.