I am getting ready to remove my primary winches so I can take them home for a thorough cleaning/lubrication. Looking for suggestions on a good solvent degreasor for the job. Before the expected responses about why would I want to remove them rather than do the job while they are mounted on the boat -- I just do. Don't like to fool with tiny parts/springs with cold fingers (still wintry here in the Midwest) and re bedding the winches isn't that hard. Thanks
solvents
- Thread starter Bill C320 Papillon
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Plain acetone
Acetone works fine for me. It costs about half as much at the local hardware store as at the marine store. In my limited experience with my single speed winches, I have never had a part fly off when removing them. The first time I took them off the boat to clean them, I went to the trouble of cutting a hole in the middle of a box lid and putting that under and around the winch to catch any escape attempts. I still wrap a towel around the base of the winch before removing the top, but I have yet to have any mishaps. IMHO, I would rather remove the winches in cold weather than risk the inevitable painfully skinned knuckles from unbolting the things in the cold.
Acetone works fine for me. It costs about half as much at the local hardware store as at the marine store. In my limited experience with my single speed winches, I have never had a part fly off when removing them. The first time I took them off the boat to clean them, I went to the trouble of cutting a hole in the middle of a box lid and putting that under and around the winch to catch any escape attempts. I still wrap a towel around the base of the winch before removing the top, but I have yet to have any mishaps. IMHO, I would rather remove the winches in cold weather than risk the inevitable painfully skinned knuckles from unbolting the things in the cold.
A little trick....
...for servicing winches w/o removal. (It can't help with the cold) Cut a hole in the bottom of a cardboard box the exact size of your winch drum. Tape the box to the deck over the winch. Now you can remove any parts without the fear of loosing anything. If anything decides to fly the coupe the box will contain it. I've used this each year for winch service. PS, acetone is a great solvent but be sure to use lots of ventilation. Place a fan behind you while working with it.
...for servicing winches w/o removal. (It can't help with the cold) Cut a hole in the bottom of a cardboard box the exact size of your winch drum. Tape the box to the deck over the winch. Now you can remove any parts without the fear of loosing anything. If anything decides to fly the coupe the box will contain it. I've used this each year for winch service. PS, acetone is a great solvent but be sure to use lots of ventilation. Place a fan behind you while working with it.
I use ordinary
old mineral spirits (paint thinner), an old paint brush, and an old tooth brush to clean the inards of my winches. After cleaning, I grease the gears with PTFE grease, which really resists being washed away, and spritz the springs and pawls with spray lithium. Depending on how caked on the old goo is in your winches, you may want to just soak all the parts in mineral spirits (or diesel fuel) prior to cleaning them up.
old mineral spirits (paint thinner), an old paint brush, and an old tooth brush to clean the inards of my winches. After cleaning, I grease the gears with PTFE grease, which really resists being washed away, and spritz the springs and pawls with spray lithium. Depending on how caked on the old goo is in your winches, you may want to just soak all the parts in mineral spirits (or diesel fuel) prior to cleaning them up.
GAS
Just did all four of mine on an h31 and I used Gasoline. The goo was so thick from years of no attention that I had to let all the parts soak for a few hours before going to work with an old tooth brush and a small wire brush. I did mine at home in the comfort of my garage.
Just did all four of mine on an h31 and I used Gasoline. The goo was so thick from years of no attention that I had to let all the parts soak for a few hours before going to work with an old tooth brush and a small wire brush. I did mine at home in the comfort of my garage.
WD 40
I don't recommend acetone and gasoline is so flammable. Kerosene or diesel should work just fine and is less of a fire hazard. I like WD-40 as it is a great solvent. I just spray and wipe a few times until it is clean. I don't like the white lithium grease. It seems to react to salt or something and turns really nasty after a month or so. They sell axle grease that has antirust that I've used with good results. I've also used teflon grease with good results but it is much more expensive.
I don't recommend acetone and gasoline is so flammable. Kerosene or diesel should work just fine and is less of a fire hazard. I like WD-40 as it is a great solvent. I just spray and wipe a few times until it is clean. I don't like the white lithium grease. It seems to react to salt or something and turns really nasty after a month or so. They sell axle grease that has antirust that I've used with good results. I've also used teflon grease with good results but it is much more expensive.
Kerosene or diesel are good solvents
be sure to wear gloves, because you can absorb the carcinogens through your skin. Kerosene mixed with 10 to 30% red ATF makes a great, cheap penetrating oil. It leaves the ATF as a lubricating film, and it's highly detergent. In Chinese and other Asian cultures, red is good luck. I figure any time I need penetrating oil, I need all the luck I can get. WD 40 dissolves corrosion, especially on aluminium, but it evaporates, so you need something to lubricate and protect after WD. Boeshield is another good product. It has castor oil in it, which leaves a non sticky film.
be sure to wear gloves, because you can absorb the carcinogens through your skin. Kerosene mixed with 10 to 30% red ATF makes a great, cheap penetrating oil. It leaves the ATF as a lubricating film, and it's highly detergent. In Chinese and other Asian cultures, red is good luck. I figure any time I need penetrating oil, I need all the luck I can get. WD 40 dissolves corrosion, especially on aluminium, but it evaporates, so you need something to lubricate and protect after WD. Boeshield is another good product. It has castor oil in it, which leaves a non sticky film.
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