Solo anchoring...

Dec 1, 1999
2,391
Hunter 28.5 Chesapeake Bay
Since I often sail solo, I've tried a lot of different anchoring techniques when I'm alone. I've been pretty successful doing it as follows: (1) pick the spot where you want the anchor to set; (2) pass over that spot going downwind; (3) drop the anchor from the stern; (4) let the anchor set after 30 feet or so while securing the rode to a stern cleat; (5) once the anchor is set, walk the rode outside of the lifelines and secure it to a bow cleat; (6) go back and release the rode at the stern cleat and let the bow swing around into the wind; and (7) let out the right amount of scope from the bow.
What works for you?
 
May 20, 2016
3,014
Catalina 36 MK1 94 Everett, WA
Drop the anchor from the helm using a remote on the windlass. Watch the rode for depth markers while using the wind to push me backwards (shots of reverse if wind lacking). Go to bow and snubber rode. Return to helm and back down to set
 
Nov 22, 2011
1,192
Ericson 26-2 San Pedro, CA
Since I often sail solo, I've tried a lot of different anchoring techniques when I'm alone. I've been pretty successful doing it as follows: (1) pick the spot where you want the anchor to set; (2) pass over that spot going downwind; (3) drop the anchor from the stern; (4) let the anchor set after 30 feet or so while securing the rode to a stern cleat; (5) once the anchor is set, walk the rode outside of the lifelines and secure it to a bow cleat; (6) go back and release the rode at the stern cleat and let the bow swing around into the wind; and (7) let out the right amount of scope from the bow.
What works for you?
Just be careful that you don't wrap your anchor line around your prop.
 
Oct 26, 2008
6,045
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
I've found that anchoring alone is rarely graceful. Your procedure doesn't sound bad, but I keep my anchor in an anchor locker at the bow, and I don't think I want to transfer it to the stern. I generally head to my spot upwind and drift to a stop. Then I walk forward and lower the anchor. Since it is a Danforth, it can easily foul if I drop or throw it carelessly. When the wind is light, allowing the boat to drift back on the anchor doesn't generally work very well since I'm trying to avoid dropping a pile of chain on top of the anchor. I generally like to snub it at about 30' of rode to get the anchor dug in (more or less depending on depth). The bow is usually swinging off the wind faster than the stern, so if the bow straightens out when the rode comes tight, I take that as a good sign, and give it another 10' to 30' (it all depends on depth) of rode before going back to employ power to set the anchor. After that, I make my final calculations for scope, adjust the rode accordingly, then set it again with power.
If the wind is light, I'll often line up the boat into the wind as it comes to a stop and then center the rudder and put into reverse gear to get the boat moving so that when I drop anchor and chain, the chain is laid out on the bottom, not just a pile on the anchor. The problem is that rarely the boat moves backward in a straight line, and with just a little wind, the bow swings off really quick. That's when things get interesting ... I set the rode and have to get back to the stern quickly to get lined up again, just hoping that the first snub is a decent set. Then, I'll go forward again to make adjustments for scope followed by another set.
Someday, I'll put a bow roller on so I don't have to lift the anchor out of the locker and drop it in under the pulpit. It's awkward and I'm getting too old for that sh!t. It's a pia handling that thing at both ends of the ordeal (anchoring and leaving), all the time worrying about chips in the gelcoat.
When Sue is backing up and responding to my signals and shouts, it is rarely any more graceful (but don't let her know that I said that :shhh::shhh:).
 
  • Like
Likes: TomY

TomY

Alden Forum Moderator
Jun 22, 2004
2,758
Alden 38' Challenger yawl Rockport Harbor
I generally head to my spot upwind and drift to a stop. Then I walk forward and lower the anchor. Since it is a Danforth, it can easily foul if I drop or throw it carelessly. When the wind is light, allowing the boat to drift back on the anchor doesn't generally work very well since I'm trying to avoid dropping a pile of chain on top of the anchor. I generally like to snub it at about 30' of rode to get the anchor dug in (more or less depending on depth). The bow is usually swinging off the wind faster than the stern, so if the bow straightens out when the rode comes tight, I take that as a good sign, and give it another 10' to 30' (it all depends on depth) of rode before going back to employ power to set the anchor. After that, I make my final calculations for scope, adjust the rode accordingly, then set it again with power.
).
I sail onto my anchor quite a bit, and that's how I usually do it. Sometimes I'll reach through the area to find a good spot, then tack and reach back toward it.

Staying way to leeward, I'll come into the wind when directly downwind of the 'spot'. Then ride the boats way up to the spot. That's quite a distance, it takes some experience with your boat.

If I guessed about right, once the boats motion stops, I'll lower the anchor and chain by hand(our windlass isn't too handy for that). Then I know the 35 CQR will lay out with the 40' of chain, trailing back.

The good thing is, if you overshoot your mark, you can still lower it to stop the boat(sometimes from going aground if the spot is close to shore - which is often for us).

The boat wants to drift back beam to the wind, but if you keep a little tension on the rode, the anchor and chain keep it into the wind, as it drifts back.

After the sails are put away, or sometime later, I'll set the hook under power (or not if I'm in a well known protected spot).
 
Jun 6, 2006
6,990
currently boatless wishing Harrington Harbor North, MD
(Typically) motor around the anchorage to find the right spot, go to the spot approaching from upwind and just prior to reaching it put the motor in neutral, check the depth, and lock the rudder; go forward and drop the anchor (you prep the anchor prior to finding the right spot BTW), let the boat momentum carry you to the desired scope (based on the depth you noted prior to going forward), cinch off the rode at that point and let momentum set the anchor. Watch your fingers for pinches, they hurt a lot and interfere with beer drinking and admiral chasing, The boat will pivot upon setting the anchor (that is how you tell it is set BTW). If the boat does not pivot and set the anchor put the transmission in reverse and back down on the anchor watching out astern and for depth clearance till you note no change in your position. Check for swing clearance. Assuming you did not pinch you fingers and require medical aid, inform the admiral "the anchor is set" and proceed to identify range markers that will be visible after everybody turns their lights off on shore at 0300. Note these range markers in the ships log. You are now in a position to start "admiral engagement strategies" and alcohol re-hydration. Anchoring is hard work and needs hydration to maintain your health and admirals need lots of maintenance when at anchor.
Note to solo sailors: sailing solo is kinda like masturbation. sure it is fun but it is much more fun if you have a friend. That friend may or may not be into the details of sailing. If they are not you will want to master solo sailing to keep them (and yourself) happy.
 
Mar 26, 2011
3,402
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
How is it different?
  • Pick a spot that makes sense in terms of swing. Many cannot visualize this.
  • Approaching from down wind, put the bow about 50 feet to windward of where you want the anchor.
  • If the wind is very light, just enough reverse to get it moving astern at about 0.5-knot.
  • Walk to the front and lower anchor and chain, gradually as it begins to drift back (I summarize). Obvious, the anchor will have been made ready during the approach.
  • Attach snubber and power set.
Though I sometimes have someone help at the helm, it is mostly to make them feel useful. There is no actual need.
 
  • Like
Likes: brazenarticle

Gunni

.
Mar 16, 2010
5,937
Beneteau 411 Oceanis Annapolis
Gee Warren, that sounds like a lot of effort. Once you have the anchorage figured out (depth, wind, clearance to others, scope, set location) and have your anchor free of it's lock, windlass ready, and everything ready to go; stall the boat into the wind, shift to neutral and walk forward, quickly get the anchor on the bottom, wait for the boat to begin a downwind drift and pay out the rode. You should have your rode well marked so that you know how much is out and where you scope set will be. Don't be in a hurry, you don't want a pile of chain on the bottom, or a hard snatch on your rope to pull the anchor. Drift and feed out the rode to your calculated scope. Don't be in a hurry. When the boat pulls up snug on the rode...let it work the anchor in. Don't be in a hurry. Give it 5 minutes or so, less if you have lots of wind. When you are ready to set the anchor, return to the helm, position the wheel or tiller at dead center and slowly bring the motor up to slow astern (2000 RPM on my boat). Let the boat pull a steady load on the anchor. Check your position for drift. A boat under power that is not moving feels different. On last pull, take the power up a bit to confirm set. I will often shorten my scope from 7:1 down to 5:1 or even 3:1 after I have a set if in a crowded anchorage.

If at any time you don't feel good about your situation be prepared to bring the anchor up and start over. No shame in that. Solo anchoring is the best reason to have a powered windlass. Solo anchoring is a great reason to have a modern spade-type anchor. I typically anchor the boat myself unless I have a knowledgeable mariner aboard who know what she is doing.
 
Feb 17, 2006
5,274
Lancer 27PS MCB Camp Pendleton KF6BL
I kind of like that process, Warren. Mine is to motor to the spot, drop the anchor and all the chain. Once I know it is on the bottom I head back to the helm and back down the boat until it stops. Then back to the bow to let out the correct scope. Either way it requires maybe two trips to the bow and back.
 
Mar 1, 2012
2,182
1961 Rhodes Meridian 25 Texas coast
I normally figure where I want to anchor, pass over the area to see what depth is really there then go out where I have sea room. Let the boat drift while I flake out enough chain on deck- I lay it out along the side deck, usually in two runs. This normally results in about 40 feet of chain flaked out, Secure to the cleat, then sail, or motor back to where I want the anchor. Take the boat out of gear, or let fly sheets . Walk to bow and lower the anchor and as the boat drifts back, gently snub to begin the set.. Once I feel it set fairly hard,, I set harder. once I reach the end of what has been flaked, I adjust as needed, and back down hard on the anchor.

Then I fill out the log, while watching to be sure I'm anchored for real

Sometimes UN anchoring solo is a bigger problem, particularly with little clearance astern. Then I set up the tiller pilot on whatever seem the best course,crank the engine, engage it in slow ahead, and go begin hauling in rode. I pile it on deck til the anchor hits the roller,, go back and take over the helm until I'm in clear water, then go stow the rode. HOWEVER, if I'm running the ICW I usually just leave the chain piled on deck, so should I need to anchor quickly, I can just go drop.

Technique worked well for me on a single hand from Mobjack Bay to here on Matogorda Bay on the Texas coast, and a round trip here to Pensacola Fla and return
 

capta

.
Jun 4, 2009
4,766
Pearson 530 Admiralty Bay, Bequia SVG
Sounds like you have it well in hand.
For us, it really doesn't make any difference if we are one or two doing the anchoring. Once the boat is appropriately placed, either someone on the bow can release the windlass brake, or I can put on the wheel brake and walk up there and do it myself. As we only back down on the anchor if there's no wind at all or Med moor, no one needs to be at the helm once the boat is appropriately placed.
 
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
While two can make the process prettier, one can do just as well.

Going upwind, coast and/or power back to get the bow to stop over the anchor point. Go to the bow.
Once the boat naturally starts to drift back, drop anchor to the bottom.
After the anchor is on the bottom and some reasonable scope is paid out, brace the rode to help set the anchor and straighten the boat back into the wind.
Pay out the rest of the rode while the boat drifts back to the final scope. Secure.
Go back to the helm and back down to set.

Bad combinations of wind, tide, and current can mess this up, but with forces working together its pretty foolproof.
 
Nov 22, 2011
1,192
Ericson 26-2 San Pedro, CA
While two can make the process prettier, one can do just as well.

Going upwind, coast and/or power back to get the bow to stop over the anchor point. Go to the bow.
Once the boat naturally starts to drift back, drop anchor to the bottom.
After the anchor is on the bottom and some reasonable scope is paid out, brace the rode to help set the anchor and straighten the boat back into the wind.
Pay out the rest of the rode while the boat drifts back to the final scope. Secure.
Go back to the helm and back down to set.

Bad combinations of wind, tide, and current can mess this up, but with forces working together its pretty foolproof.
This is exactly the way I do it. The only thing I'd add is that when I back down using the engine, I back down *hard*--or at least as hard as my little 1GM can do!
 
  • Like
Likes: Jackdaw
Jan 1, 2006
7,040
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
Going upwind, coast and/or power back to get the bow to stop over the anchor point. Go to the bow. Once the boat naturally starts to drift back, drop anchor to the bottom.
After the anchor is on the bottom and some reasonable scope is paid out, brace the rode to help set the anchor and straighten the boat back into the wind.
Pay out the rest of the rode while the boat drifts back to the final scope. Secure...
This is it. It's not that complicated. I don't usually back down on the rode. Maybe if there isn't any wind at all. I see soooooo many anchorers rip their anchors out of the bottom by backing down. That was the Rx for plows a generation of anchoring ago. If I do back down it's pretty gentle. A breeze and a few hours and that anchor will be well set.
On clorox bottle boats, whats causes the anchor to drag is the extreme sailing around on the anchor that these boats do. Work on that.
 
  • Like
Likes: capta
Nov 22, 2011
1,192
Ericson 26-2 San Pedro, CA
This is it. It's not that complicated. I don't usually back down on the rode. Maybe if there isn't any wind at all. I see soooooo many anchorers rip their anchors out of the bottom by backing down. That was the Rx for plows a generation of anchoring ago. If I do back down it's pretty gentle. A breeze and a few hours and that anchor will be well set.
On clorox bottle boats, whats causes the anchor to drag is the extreme sailing around on the anchor that these boats do. Work on that.
I would say that the problem is not with backing down, but with the fact that some people back down before initially setting the anchor with sufficient scope. Or, with having an inadequate anchor in the first place.

With my Rocna, I get the anchor to set, lay out lots of scope and then, only after backing down hard on the anchor, take up on the scope to an appropriate level. (7:1 is ideal though not always attainable.) If you can pull that anchor out with the engine then if the conditions get ugly it will pull out also. Better to find that out beforehand.
 

Gunni

.
Mar 16, 2010
5,937
Beneteau 411 Oceanis Annapolis
What Alan said. You have to give the rode a chance to stretch out, the anchor orient and a slow penetration into the bottom. Then a hard set. If you don't give your anchor a hard set you run the very high risk of finding yourself having to reset at O-dark-thirty. And that will totally shave the the fun off the cruise.
 
Dec 25, 2000
5,704
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
I've been solo anchoring for years and hundreds of times. I wrote an article awhile back about our system that has worked for us over the years, here: https://hunter.sailboatowners.com/mods.php?task=article&mid=45&aid=8270&mn=42

Coming into an anchorage I first check the tide state then select a spot that fits my depth needs, usually 25 to 30 feet. I always drop from the bow, with the anchor followed by 50 feet of chain, snap the kellet onto the last chain link, then let out at least 60 feet of rope unless there is a blow. In that case I will increase the scope to 80 or 100 feet of rope.

If the wind is blowing, it will swing the bow away, which will force a hard set on the anchor followed by the stern swinging in line. No need to set the anchor; the boat has stopped. If no wind I will back down on the anchor to ensure a good set.
 

Gunni

.
Mar 16, 2010
5,937
Beneteau 411 Oceanis Annapolis
I thought the kellet had gone the way of the RDF. With "years and hundreds" of anchorages on a 42' boat swinging a Danforth and kellet ground tackle system you should buy a few lottery tickets Terry!
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Likes: Gene Neill
Jul 27, 2011
4,990
Bavaria 38E Alamitos Bay
It seems that techniques vary depending on the ground tackle. For example, I doubt one would use a kellet if deploying all chain rode. Also, you just couldn't drop all of that chain off the stern and then haul the end of it up to the bow, etc. So, all or mostly chain with windlass requires a drop from the bow as Gunni described it; which is basically identical to what I, or we, do. My "issue" with solo anchoring is more along the lines of what next if you don't set properly, or you're not happy with how or where you come to lay? Standing on the bow, windlass remote in hand & engine idling, hauling in the chain and anchor for another pass is no big deal on a yacht so equipped. Make a couple of tries if necessary!! It's fast and it does not wear you out. But still--careful selection of the spot to drop is paramount. I think I've said that here before; not terribly profound I admito_O. Leaving extra space around you to recover from solo error is something always to do.:pray:
 
Last edited:
Nov 22, 2011
1,192
Ericson 26-2 San Pedro, CA
It seems that techniques vary depending on the ground tackle. For example, I doubt one would use a kellet if deploying all chain rode. Also, you just couldn't drop all that chain off the stern and then haul the end of it up to the bow, etc. So, all or mostly chain with windlass requires a drop from the bow as Gunni described it; which is basically identical to what I, or we, do. My "issue" with solo anchoring is more along the lines of what next if you don't set properly, or you're not happy with how or where you come to lay? Standing on the bow, windlass remote in hand & engine idling, hauling in the chain and anchor for another pass is no big deal on a yacht so equipped. Make a couple of tries if necessary!! It's fast and it does not wear you out. But still--careful selection of the spot to drop is paramount. I think I've said that here before; not terribly profound I admito_O. Leaving extra space around you to recover from solo error is something always to do.:pray:
All excellent points.