Sole refinishing questions

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May 30, 2011
24
allmand 31 MD
How to strip the old finish....varnish... off the sole without lifting the veneer?

I've tried sanding, scraping, and planing......results on each method unsatisfactory.

I've heard about Biodegradable Strypeeze, which can be used indoors. Does anyone have any experience with this product?
My concern is that it could possibly lift the veneer.
 

Rick D

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Jun 14, 2008
7,204
Hunter Legend 40.5 Shoreline Marina Long Beach CA
Varnish Stripper

I have used a water-based product in the past with OK results. Usually requires more than one application. However, unless you have some discoloring or lifting, no need to strip everything off. If you can get the sole up and outside, much easier and better results.
 
Apr 8, 2010
2,238
Ericson Yachts Olson 34 28400 Portland OR
Bit of a job, but worth it!

The Teak n Holy veneered plywood sole on our present boat was originally oil finished. The prior owner had ignored it and it was literally nearly black with ground-in dirt and grime.
Since most of the sections were screwed and plugged, I removed all the plugs, pulled the screws, and took all the sections to a furniture stripping shop. They dunked 'em all, and they came out great. We smoothed them with some 150 and 220 and applied multiple coats of varnish, both sides. (I did teak plug all of the old holes, first.)

I made a new pattern for new screws, and put it back down with bronze square-drive screws, set flush (only in the teak strips where no one notices).

After that, we can and have removed any section to clean up the bilge as needed.

The original work was done in '95 and we remove them and sand and re-varnish the surface every five years or so.

If you have a factory sole that might have been glued down as well as screwed, here is a link to a thread with a lot of information on replacement or refurbishment.
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...emoval-of-glued-down-cabin-sole&referrerid=28

I will attach a picture of our boat after the refinish.

While it's remotely possible that your particular veneer might be harmed by stripping chemicals, I would doubt it since it was intended for a boat subjected to sea water/diesel/ and whatever else might flood it...

Cheers,
LB
 

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Sep 25, 2008
385
Harpoon 5.2 Honolulu, HI
I used stripping chemicals on mine with no issues. Then I used teak cleaner and brightener on the spots where the varnish was gone and it was grungy or grey. Then hand sanded certain spots. Didn't come out perfect but it's usable.

I like the idea of taking it to the furniture refinisher, I didn't think of that!
 
Jan 4, 2006
7,654
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
No Need to Completely Remove .........................

................... the old varnish down to bare teak and holly if the wood is still in good condition. Extreme care is required once you reach the wood as the veneer is about 0.020" at best. One rub too many and it's history.

A few years ago I remove the sole and sanded out all of the blemished area with #320 and was left with a pretty decent surface. From there I applied eight coats of spar varnish and then cooked the boards for three months in a hot box at 110 deg. F. for three months.

Got a little carried away with the final polishing and progressively finished the varnish to #1500, rubbed with 000 steel wool and Mohawk Liquid Wool Lube, and then polished with the Makita 9227C and Meguiars polish. Looked like the top of a grand piano. Still looks good after a few years but I may polish it again this spring as no one has slipped on it recently :eek:
 

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May 28, 2009
764
Hunter 376 Pensacola, FL
Re: No Need to Completely Remove .........................

When I want to remove some varnish or other finish from a large flat surface, I paint it with some finish remover (I have a can of Formby's that I usually use) and then scrape it off with a cabinet scraper. You can find one here:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=19725&filter=cabinet scraper
It will do a good job of taking off the coating without getting down into the surface, and they're really easy to sharpen as long as you have a bench vise to clamp it in to hold it while sharpening.
 
Feb 2, 2010
373
Island Packet 37 Hull #2 Harpswell Me
I find that careful use of a heat gun and a sharp 2 inch scraper works well for me. Just keep the heat gun moving and try not to gouge, pulling the scrapper towards you is safer.
Now i would like to know what varnish products are most durable, manufacturers names would be good, my sole only last a couple of years.
 
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