we are planning on installing this on the forward hatch (above the vberth) as there is less glass to drill through. anyone ever done this or have any comments/suggestions? we are debating using power drill vs. handrill at this point. thanks davejdn@aol.com
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Tom Ehmke
Brittle plexiglas
Dave, I added two hinged portlights in the cabin of my 272 this Spring and had trouble with the plexiglas splitting in a couple of places. After reading some other posts at the site, I think it has to do with age and UV exposure making the plexiglas brittle. I masked off the entire area, traced the outline of the ports onto the tape where I wanted to cut, drilled at the short radii to avoid forcing the blade and used a sabersaw to finish the cuts. Everything turned out ok, but if the blade binds even slightly, the plexiglas may crack as mine did. I will live with it as the plexiglas covers the port and starboard openings the whole length of the cabin and head areas. It's a pretty large piece of plexiglas to replace. Putting the solar vent in the foreward hatch shouldn't be a problem unless you have reinforcing ribs inside the hatch cover. Then I would be concerned about weakening the hatch cover. If you decide to try to cut the holes using a sabersaw, use the thinnest, narrowest blade you can find, and go slowly. Good luck Tom
Dave, I added two hinged portlights in the cabin of my 272 this Spring and had trouble with the plexiglas splitting in a couple of places. After reading some other posts at the site, I think it has to do with age and UV exposure making the plexiglas brittle. I masked off the entire area, traced the outline of the ports onto the tape where I wanted to cut, drilled at the short radii to avoid forcing the blade and used a sabersaw to finish the cuts. Everything turned out ok, but if the blade binds even slightly, the plexiglas may crack as mine did. I will live with it as the plexiglas covers the port and starboard openings the whole length of the cabin and head areas. It's a pretty large piece of plexiglas to replace. Putting the solar vent in the foreward hatch shouldn't be a problem unless you have reinforcing ribs inside the hatch cover. Then I would be concerned about weakening the hatch cover. If you decide to try to cut the holes using a sabersaw, use the thinnest, narrowest blade you can find, and go slowly. Good luck Tom
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Les Blackwell
I didn't do this task well by any means
I installed a solar vent just like you want to do on a Vision 32 a few years back. It was not a task that I want to repeat. First, I measured everything very well--you know, measure twice; cut once. Then I drilled a pilot hole so that I could insert my saber saw blade. Then I started sawing rather fast. Did as nice job if I do say so myself. Except for one little problem--because I sawed fast, it just melted back together again. I got so mad that I hit the center of the cut out and cracked the whole plexiglass. Had to buy a new hatch and then I had a commercial outfit cut the hole. The whole idea worked well when done but I was Tim the tool man on this project.
I installed a solar vent just like you want to do on a Vision 32 a few years back. It was not a task that I want to repeat. First, I measured everything very well--you know, measure twice; cut once. Then I drilled a pilot hole so that I could insert my saber saw blade. Then I started sawing rather fast. Did as nice job if I do say so myself. Except for one little problem--because I sawed fast, it just melted back together again. I got so mad that I hit the center of the cut out and cracked the whole plexiglass. Had to buy a new hatch and then I had a commercial outfit cut the hole. The whole idea worked well when done but I was Tim the tool man on this project.
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Jim Cook
To which "glass" are you referring?
I just installed a solar day/night vent this summer. My installation went very well. However, my forward hatch is fiberglass (all one piece) not plexiglass. If you bought a day vent, I suggest upgrading to a day/night vent. The solar panel charges a battery that runs the fan at night to give much more ventilation. Jim C "Dream Chaser"
I just installed a solar day/night vent this summer. My installation went very well. However, my forward hatch is fiberglass (all one piece) not plexiglass. If you bought a day vent, I suggest upgrading to a day/night vent. The solar panel charges a battery that runs the fan at night to give much more ventilation. Jim C "Dream Chaser"
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dave
solar vent clarification
thanks for the 3 replies thus far. i should clarify it is not plexiglass. mt hatch cover is figerglass and the original vent and i planned on cutting with a hole cutter, sanding then szilicon in place then screw it secure
thanks for the 3 replies thus far. i should clarify it is not plexiglass. mt hatch cover is figerglass and the original vent and i planned on cutting with a hole cutter, sanding then szilicon in place then screw it secure
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dave
thanks
mine is fibergalss also and it will active in daylight, passive in nighttime with a cut off for heavy wayter coming
mine is fibergalss also and it will active in daylight, passive in nighttime with a cut off for heavy wayter coming
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Selden Campen
Solar Pwered Vent - Installed Well
I bought my Macgregor26 with the Solar Powered vent installed by the dealer. Power Sailing did a great job. It was installed in the forward hatch. The vent had a base that was the same size as a round portal with screw in 6" (I guess) lid. Now either the solar powered vent or the lid can be screwed in. Therefore the task reducces itself to installing a portal, which I believe is a fairly common task.
I bought my Macgregor26 with the Solar Powered vent installed by the dealer. Power Sailing did a great job. It was installed in the forward hatch. The vent had a base that was the same size as a round portal with screw in 6" (I guess) lid. Now either the solar powered vent or the lid can be screwed in. Therefore the task reducces itself to installing a portal, which I believe is a fairly common task.
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Dick Carey
Solar Powered Vent Installation
This past spring fitting out, I installed a Solar/Battery Powered vent in the hatch of the forward Vee Berth. It went very well and we are very pleased with it's outcome and operation. You need to use a hole saw in the hatch plastic, BUT use it on low speed with light pressure. Then drill the mounting holes the same way. Dick Carey S/V Puffin 1990 Hunter 33.5
This past spring fitting out, I installed a Solar/Battery Powered vent in the hatch of the forward Vee Berth. It went very well and we are very pleased with it's outcome and operation. You need to use a hole saw in the hatch plastic, BUT use it on low speed with light pressure. Then drill the mounting holes the same way. Dick Carey S/V Puffin 1990 Hunter 33.5
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Mark A.
RotoZip
I have used a RotoZip with circle attachment with great success. Just go slow and having you wife hold a shop vac to pick up the cuttings really help in clean up.
I have used a RotoZip with circle attachment with great success. Just go slow and having you wife hold a shop vac to pick up the cuttings really help in clean up.
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Greg
the hole truth
I've had the pleasure of installing both passive and active (i.e. night/day solar) vents. I will not have a boat without them, since they improve ventilation, reduce moisture/mildew, etc. For the first one, I bought a "hole saw", a little unit that goes on a 1/2 in drill that has a pilot drill bit built in, and a round cutter blade. This works VERY well, and you have the advantage of clean, straight holes every time. Because it is attached to a drill, you can control cutting speed and prevent overheating of the blade/material. They come in specific sizes, so the one that I got was also used for intalling multiple inspection ports and dorades, each time with the same satisfactory results. I just purchased a new 37 footer, and put in three vents in no time at all.
I've had the pleasure of installing both passive and active (i.e. night/day solar) vents. I will not have a boat without them, since they improve ventilation, reduce moisture/mildew, etc. For the first one, I bought a "hole saw", a little unit that goes on a 1/2 in drill that has a pilot drill bit built in, and a round cutter blade. This works VERY well, and you have the advantage of clean, straight holes every time. Because it is attached to a drill, you can control cutting speed and prevent overheating of the blade/material. They come in specific sizes, so the one that I got was also used for intalling multiple inspection ports and dorades, each time with the same satisfactory results. I just purchased a new 37 footer, and put in three vents in no time at all.
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