Hi! I just bought a Catalina C-25 with an outboard motor and a small battery which was previously kept in a slip with electricity. I will be keeping the boat at a mooring and using it for cruising and need to upgrade both the battery (to possibly a double battery system) and to add a solar panel charging system. Help! I know nothing about the solar panel charging systems, and would appreciate any advice on what to go for and what to avoid. Also, what is the purpose of the 1-2-On-All battery switch that I have seen on so many two-battery boats??? Thanks!!! Thanks!
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1-2-ALL-OFF Switch
When you have 2 banks of batteries (1 or 2 in each) the switch allows you to choose bank 1, bank 2 or ALL for both banks. OFF is obvious). Normally you declare on bank to be for house (lights, radios,etc.) and the other is reserved for starting only and while running. This ensures you always have one fully charged battery for starting. If you do not have enough cranking power with your starting bank you can switch to ALL and it will use both banks for starting. Do NOT use your starting bank for house use. You can switch between banks for charging purposes. I normally start on ALL and then switch to which ever bank I want the engines to charge but I never use the starting bank for house use. Normally boat owners will put in a 2 battery bank for the house use to get more hours depending on your usage. If you draw too much power from a battery between charges you can destrpy the battery. Hope this helps.
When you have 2 banks of batteries (1 or 2 in each) the switch allows you to choose bank 1, bank 2 or ALL for both banks. OFF is obvious). Normally you declare on bank to be for house (lights, radios,etc.) and the other is reserved for starting only and while running. This ensures you always have one fully charged battery for starting. If you do not have enough cranking power with your starting bank you can switch to ALL and it will use both banks for starting. Do NOT use your starting bank for house use. You can switch between banks for charging purposes. I normally start on ALL and then switch to which ever bank I want the engines to charge but I never use the starting bank for house use. Normally boat owners will put in a 2 battery bank for the house use to get more hours depending on your usage. If you draw too much power from a battery between charges you can destrpy the battery. Hope this helps.
I Have 2 Panels on my 25
Mounting these panels involved some thought as there is not a lot of deck space that is fully sun exposed. Decided to add them to the top of my bimini frame. I have 2 15 W, 2 amp collectors, and have a regulator, with built in diodes to prevent overcharging (possible if you are charging a small capacity battery), and prevent loss through the collectors at night. Ideally, I get about 15-20 amps of current during a sunny day because of inefficiencies in panel angles, cloud cover etc. This is not much, but delays running down the batts when at anchor for a weekend. I use about 80 amp hours each day, so I replace about 25% of my power needs. I have a picture of this at the odayowners.com picture section. Don
Mounting these panels involved some thought as there is not a lot of deck space that is fully sun exposed. Decided to add them to the top of my bimini frame. I have 2 15 W, 2 amp collectors, and have a regulator, with built in diodes to prevent overcharging (possible if you are charging a small capacity battery), and prevent loss through the collectors at night. Ideally, I get about 15-20 amps of current during a sunny day because of inefficiencies in panel angles, cloud cover etc. This is not much, but delays running down the batts when at anchor for a weekend. I use about 80 amp hours each day, so I replace about 25% of my power needs. I have a picture of this at the odayowners.com picture section. Don
That's a Tough Question
There are numerous factors that go into determining the best solution for this kind of a situation, so many, in fact, it would be a good idea to contact someone that sells a lot of solar panels to boaters. Just to keep the battery topped off would not require much generation capability but depending on the type of panel (for example, output drops off if there is a line shadow) more output would be needed to compensate. A blocking diode (prevents discharge at night or when there is a shadow) would probably be a good idea but this would cause a small voltage drop, perhaps enough to eliminate certain pannels. If more power is needed, to run a stereo or lights, then panel output would need to be increased and probably also battery capacity. The larger panel can be harmful to the battery(ies) if it boils off the electrolyte due to over charging. On a 25 any type of refrigeration, even one of the little 12v cooler boxes, is probably out of the question. A forum like this would probably only good to help raise more questions - but this can be good. As for something to buy - I'd like to recommend a Fluke (or equal) digital multitester for battery voltage testing (and all kinds of other stuff like testing for open circuits, testing for corrosion, etc.) on the boat or outboard, or even your car.
There are numerous factors that go into determining the best solution for this kind of a situation, so many, in fact, it would be a good idea to contact someone that sells a lot of solar panels to boaters. Just to keep the battery topped off would not require much generation capability but depending on the type of panel (for example, output drops off if there is a line shadow) more output would be needed to compensate. A blocking diode (prevents discharge at night or when there is a shadow) would probably be a good idea but this would cause a small voltage drop, perhaps enough to eliminate certain pannels. If more power is needed, to run a stereo or lights, then panel output would need to be increased and probably also battery capacity. The larger panel can be harmful to the battery(ies) if it boils off the electrolyte due to over charging. On a 25 any type of refrigeration, even one of the little 12v cooler boxes, is probably out of the question. A forum like this would probably only good to help raise more questions - but this can be good. As for something to buy - I'd like to recommend a Fluke (or equal) digital multitester for battery voltage testing (and all kinds of other stuff like testing for open circuits, testing for corrosion, etc.) on the boat or outboard, or even your car.
C25 Electrics
Karen, I have a C25, too, and have redone a fair amount of the electrical system. I plan to finish my modifications this winter. Question: Is your engine electric or pull start? Mine is pull started so I don't have to worry about a starting battery. My system will consist of two group 27 deep cycle batteries mounted in the stock battery tray in the starboard settee. These will be connected to an on/off/both switch wired so that the 'both' option is disabled. Your local marine supplier should have the switch and should know how to wire it so that you can turn both batteries off, or either one on, but not both on at the same time. I will use a low amperage battery combiner to allow the engine to charge both batteries simultaneously without linking their outputs. Each battery will have a voltimeter to act as a charge state gauge. The power lead from the engine will come into a switch that will distribute power to the combiner. The switch will also provide the option of accpeting power from a solar panel. The switch will be wired so that only one power source at a time can charge the battery. CHECK YOUR OUTBOARD TO MAKE SURE IT CAN RUN WITH NO LOAD ON THE ALTERNATOR WITHOUT DAMAGE. My 2001 Johnson will safely run without load. Some alternators will be destroyed if you don't give them an output. If yours is one of them, install a zapstop diode to protect it. The solar panel will mount to the sliding companionway hatch. It is a Siemen's high output type. I will run it through a charge controller to avoid cooking the batteries. I am not going to use a blocking diode because the panel I am using loses less power to reradiation than the diode wastes. Confused yet? I was too, but after a bunch of research, this it the plan. Hit me with specific questions and I'll help you out if I can. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
Karen, I have a C25, too, and have redone a fair amount of the electrical system. I plan to finish my modifications this winter. Question: Is your engine electric or pull start? Mine is pull started so I don't have to worry about a starting battery. My system will consist of two group 27 deep cycle batteries mounted in the stock battery tray in the starboard settee. These will be connected to an on/off/both switch wired so that the 'both' option is disabled. Your local marine supplier should have the switch and should know how to wire it so that you can turn both batteries off, or either one on, but not both on at the same time. I will use a low amperage battery combiner to allow the engine to charge both batteries simultaneously without linking their outputs. Each battery will have a voltimeter to act as a charge state gauge. The power lead from the engine will come into a switch that will distribute power to the combiner. The switch will also provide the option of accpeting power from a solar panel. The switch will be wired so that only one power source at a time can charge the battery. CHECK YOUR OUTBOARD TO MAKE SURE IT CAN RUN WITH NO LOAD ON THE ALTERNATOR WITHOUT DAMAGE. My 2001 Johnson will safely run without load. Some alternators will be destroyed if you don't give them an output. If yours is one of them, install a zapstop diode to protect it. The solar panel will mount to the sliding companionway hatch. It is a Siemen's high output type. I will run it through a charge controller to avoid cooking the batteries. I am not going to use a blocking diode because the panel I am using loses less power to reradiation than the diode wastes. Confused yet? I was too, but after a bunch of research, this it the plan. Hit me with specific questions and I'll help you out if I can. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
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