Solar Panel Size, Hookup, Etc...

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Jun 12, 2010
936
Oday 22 Orleans Marina, NOLA
I want to add a solar panel to recharge the batts.

I've got 2 batteries that came with the boat, don't know anything about them except they are they're rather smallish in size, about betwixt a motorcycle battery and a car battery in size, 12V. A friend is donating a full size deep cycle marine battery that I plan on using as my main, with the best of the two small ones as secondary, and the third as an emergency spare not hooked into the system.

I don't need to get too elaborate a system but some questions I have are:

How many solar panel watts would I need?

Can both batts be charged in some kind of automatic system (easily) or just one then the other?

Small boat, so panels need to be movable/stowable while sailing, recommendations?

Load on the batts is light, vhf, fm/cd, occasional nav lights.
 

Sailm8

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Feb 21, 2008
1,750
Hunter 29.5 Punta Gorda
Will solar be your only charge source? Are you just keeping them topped up? How often will you be using them. Do you need a battery to start your engine? (I don't think so but don't know for sure).

You might reach a point where a few cloudy days put you in the hole Amp wise and you won't be able to get out without a shore charge.
 
May 23, 2007
1,306
Catalina Capri 22 Albany, Oregon
I have a Sunsei SE-1200 panel (1.2a/hr) with a charge controller semi-permanently mounted on my aft starboard rail. It does a good job of keeping my 105ah battery charged - so good, in fact, that we spent a week on the boat this summer and never needed shore power. That's despite running the chartplotter and charging 2 computers, 2 cell phones, and one of the vhf handhelds at various times during the trip. I did change all my lights over to LED though, which made a huge difference in my power consumption.

 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Someday someone will make a solar bimini. kill two birds with one stone. Maybe even kill some gulls in the process.
 
Jun 12, 2010
936
Oday 22 Orleans Marina, NOLA
Looks like a nice chunk of info to go over. Thanks.

No electric start on motor, mainly need to keep batteries topped off I do use a laptop as a chart plotter, it draws 45W I think. Cell phone too.
 
Jun 3, 2004
298
'79 Hunter 33' HUN33190M79L Olympia
Dangerous, uncertified devices??

In another recent thread (On Demand Propane Water Heater?) Maine Sail made the point that the device we were discussing was unsafe because it was not ABYC certified. Earlier in that thread, Peggy Hall posted statistics about how many deaths were caused by electric devices on boats (I'd be curious to see how many of those devices themselves were ABYC certified). According to those statistics, the danger from electric devices dwarfs the danger from propane devices in the real world.

During that discussion it occurred to me that there seems to be a huge unjustified bias against propane devices, way out of proportion to the actual risk, compared to electricity powered devices. For example, are these solar panels and their controllers ABYC certified? The panels go outside the cabin, but the controllers don't. I am attaching the controller to wood paneling in my boat. Flammable material! I looked at the Sunforce version sold on West Marine: (Sunforce 50033 Solar Kit) and can find no evidence of ABYC or any kind of certification. Why has there been no outcry in this thread of the danger of installing these devices on boats?
 
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Feb 26, 2004
23,047
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Looks like a nice chunk of info to go over. Thanks.

No electric start on motor, mainly need to keep batteries topped off I do use a laptop as a chart plotter, it draws 45W I think. Cell phone too.
That 45W is the rating of the power pack. That'll be required if your screen is set to high and you have every device on your laptop working at full speed, like your wifi. The usual load will be much less.
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,047
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
In another recent thread (On Demand Propane Water Heater?) Maine Sail made the point that the device we were discussing was unsafe because it was not ABYC certified.

Why has there been no outcry in this thread of the danger of installing these devices on boats?
Most likely because gas kills very quietly. You just don't know about it until "you're out."

An electrical fire usually creates smoke first, very noticeable with burning insulation. One of our C34 skippers had an alternator wiring fire on his boat off the Mexican coast last year. He knew about it right away and was able to deal with it. You usually have a chance to get out, because it's so obvious. No so with gas.

Electrical "issues" is one of the reasons why many of us continue to recommend that you do NOT leave your boat plugged in when you're not there. I rarely plug our boat in when I'm away, use a small solar panel to keep up, and we have a 360 AH house bank.
 
Jun 3, 2004
298
'79 Hunter 33' HUN33190M79L Olympia
re: Dangerous, uncertified devices??

Most likely because gas kills very quietly. You just don't know about it until "you're out."

An electrical fire usually creates smoke first, very noticeable with burning insulation. One of our C34 skippers had an alternator wiring fire on his boat off the Mexican coast last year. He knew about it right away and was able to deal with it. You usually have a chance to get out, because it's so obvious. No so with gas.

Electrical "issues" is one of the reasons why many of us continue to recommend that you do NOT leave your boat plugged in when you're not there. I rarely plug our boat in when I'm away, use a small solar panel to keep up, and we have a 360 AH house bank.
But it can't be any of this, can it? The statistics show that electric caused mishaps kill far far more boaters, despite the quietness of CO and gas, despite many of you not leaving your boat plugged in.

You say you do leave the solar panel connected and functioning. Is it ABYC certified?
 
Feb 22, 2010
11
Bristol 32 Middle River, MD
Can both batts be charged in some kind of automatic system (easily) or just one then the other?

I'm looking for the same information. I have a solar panel that includes alligator clips. 2 12V batteries wired in parallel. Can I attach one clip to the positive terminal on one battery and the other clip to the negative terminal of the 2nd battery?
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,047
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
But it can't be any of this, can it? The statistics show that electric caused mishaps kill far far more boaters, despite the quietness of CO and gas, despite many of you not leaving your boat plugged in.

You say you do leave the solar panel connected and functioning. Is it ABYC certified?
No, it's not. You've made your point.

Your boat, your choice. Just like Maine Sail said. If you read that entire topic, you'll see I changed my mind about it, post #60. I DO believe in obtaining input, then using it based on what I can find out.

It's not that everything on our boats are ABYC certified. For instance, I have a 1986 electrical panel with fuses and only the hot wire breaker on my AC. I have a Freedom 15 inverter charger, a Link 2000, a Blue Circle alternator, and I'm not sure if it or the Seaward hhw heater is certified either. I did, however, fuse my battery banks.

There's obsession and then there's prudence. I can live without a gas fired hot water heater. The OP on that other thread was looking for something that worked for him.

He can choose to install it and be very careful with it. I simply have chosen not to after thinking some more about it.

YB, YC. :)

All the best.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
If that's true, then electrical appliances are far more difficult to install safely than gas appliances, right?
Not necessarily. You simply may get a better warning about a bad gas installation. Electricity is not known for advance warnings before killing you. Gas is a little better.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,709
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
In another recent thread (On Demand Propane Water Heater?) Maine Sail made the point that the device we were discussing was unsafe because it was not ABYC certified. Earlier in that thread, Peggy Hall posted statistics about how many deaths were caused by electric devices on boats (I'd be curious to see how many of those devices themselves were ABYC certified). According to those statistics, the danger from electric devices dwarfs the danger from propane devices in the real world.

During that discussion it occurred to me that there seems to be a huge unjustified bias against propane devices, way out of proportion to the actual risk, compared to electricity powered devices. For example, are these solar panels and their controllers ABYC certified? The panels go outside the cabin, but the controllers don't. I am attaching the controller to wood paneling in my boat. Flammable material! I looked at the Sunforce version sold on West Marine: (Sunforce 50033 Solar Kit) and can find no evidence of ABYC or any kind of certification. Why has there been no outcry in this thread of the danger of installing these devices on boats?
Stepehen,

Your argument is based on a misunderstanding of how the standards work. The ABYC is not a "certification" organization, they are a safety standards organization. They create the standards which in turn can and should guide construction and manufacturing which "meet" or exceed the safety standards. For example Blue Seas builds nearly all their products to meet or exceed the ABYC E-11 electrical standard. Even their ANL fuses are ignition protected! Wire manufacturers will make wire to meet UL1426/ABYC E-11 etc. etc. on and on. The ABYC does not "certify" it but manufacturers build to the standard and can then say things like "Meets ABYC A-16" or "ABYC E-11 Compliant" if their products do indeed meet the standards. In the case of ABYC H-27 Forespar has this to say: "We are the only manufacturer to offer motorized Marelon® seacocks (ROV systems) that meet and exceed all Marine U.L. & ABYC"

Even the USCG does not certify nav lights. This is done by an external laboratory that tests the lights to ensure that they "meet" the minimum COLREG requirements. After independent testing nav lights can then wear the USCG or ABYC A-16 embossed "certification" stamp on the housing. The COLREGS and ABYC A-16 have guided the manufacturing and testing process for "certified" nav lights but neither the ABYC nor the USCG, who's stamp would be on the light, conducted the testing. If the light passed the requirements it would then be allowed to be considered a "certified" light. Nav lights are one of the few items that I know wear the actual "certified" label, everything else either meets the minimum requirements or does not.


Maine Sail made the point that the device we were discussing was unsafe because it was not ABYC certified
Please lets not take my writings out of context. I never said the unit needed to be ABYC "certified" but I did say about 100 times, perhaps that's an exaggeration, that it should meet the minimum safety standards, which the Excel does not. No "vent-free" water heater does. It also does not meet ANSI standards for combustion which A-26 is guided by.

The ABYC is often guided by and takes into account other industry standards such as SAE, ASME, NSF, UL, CSA, ANSI and a slew of others. It is the collaboration of a bunch of existing safety and design standards that help build the ABYC standards as they apply to te marine industry.

ABYC E-11, which a solar panel installation would fall under, suggests safe installation practices and such things as ignition protection, wire termination, wire gauge etc. etc. on and on. Microwaves, as you brought up in the other thread, would already meet UL or CSA standards which the ABYC accepts as reasonable safety measures for a device like a that. It should also be plugged into a proper GFCI outlet as laid out in E-11 and have proper OCPD protection.

The solar panel should also be installed with proper OCPD (over current protection devices) with the proper rating, and AIC rating, if connected directly to a bank of batteries. It should also include proper wire chafe protection, strain relief, wire support, correct wire termination and gauge etc. etc. and E-11 covers all this.

None of this changes the fact that the Excel does not meet the minimum safety standards under A-26, which you seem upset over.

As for the OP's question:

*Solar panels don't like any shading. Even a little can cut output dramatically. The shadow from my radar pole can cut my panels output by up to 50% even though it takes up less than 5% of the panel!!!

*If using a very small panel with no charge controller, blocking diodes should be used if the panel does not come with them.

*Proper fusing/OCPD should be used at the battery to protect the wire and if connected directly to a bank should meet the minimum AIC (Amperage Interrupt Current) of the banks capacity. If your bank can do 2000 MCA then the AIC rating of the fuse should be 2000 AIC at a minimum.

*There should be a fuse to protect the charge controller and it never hurts to install one at the panel junction box provided it can be kept dry..

*The Flex Charge PV-7 is one of the better "shunting" controllers but shunting controllers as a whole are not the best fit on a sailboat. The money would be better spent on a quality PWM controller like those from Morningstar.


Sorry for the thread drift...
 

Benny

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Sep 27, 2008
1,149
Hunter 320 Tampa, FL
I have an ABYC certified electric macerator. I'm I in the right thread?
 
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