Solar Charging

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Jul 24, 2006
370
Macgregor 25 Tulsa, Ok.
As part of my electrical system overhaul, I'm planning on adding a solar panel. Now the idea is, how much do I really need? The Sunsei 400 is advertised as being a battery maintainer, the Sunsei 1200 is advertised as a maintainer/charger. Usual usage will be probably no more than 5 hours on the nav lights a night, run a radio/cd player through an inverter (I've thought about it and have decided against a fixed radio/cd unit), cabin lights for maybe an hour or so. Just trying to figure out if the 400 will actually re-plenish what I'd use on an average over-night visit/sail on my boat, or will it simply suppliment leaving my boat on a trickle charger on shore power during the week? Also, the 400 seems to be more straightforward for pushpit rail mounting with their mount kit, whereas the 1200 will require a regulator and alternate mounting. I'd be curious to hear what experience other Mac owners have had. I don't care to buy something which isn't going to do more than a $70 electric trickle charger would do since I have access to shore power. I just figured if I ever take it to another lake for a weekend or week, I might not have access to shore power and I'd hate to run out all my electrical reserves. I don't have a motor with an alternator and don't intend to buy one anytime soon, so let's leave that out of the conversation.
 
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John S

Energy usage

It is advertised as a battery saver. It has a 6 watt rating. That is a 1/2 Amp available. Now what are your needs in amp- or watt-hours? What kind of battery are we charging? I think you'll find that this charger will keep your battery topped up, WHEN YOU ARE NOT USING THR BATTERY. Of course, that 6 watt rating is on a clear sunny day with the panel oriented 90 degrees to the sun with no shadowing-it goes downhill from there. A half amp is better than nothing.
 
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Ramblin Rod - SeaQuell - Mac 26D

Conservation is key

A 5 watt panel will generate about 2.5 amp-hrs on an average clear summer day. A single 12 watt bulb will consume that amount in 2.5 hours. Your best bet is to add up all the amp-hrs you will typcially consume in a week, and then figure out all the amp-hrs your panel will likely generate in a week. If your consumption is greater, the battery will eventuially be depleted. Our 11 watt panel replenishes in seven days, pretty much what we consume on a weekend, running a GPS, depthsounder, and VHF about 5 hours per day for 2 days.
 
Jul 24, 2006
370
Macgregor 25 Tulsa, Ok.
That's What I Forgot

I hadn't really thought about running a depth sounder and GPS off house power until you mentioned it. I have a depth sounder which I won't be certain works until I re-wire the boat, and a GPS is not far off in my future. Main thing is, I don't want a tinker-toy which will only do half the job. I want to come back to my boat every weekend to find a full charge. From that aspect, if we do our normal Saturday night sail for a few hours,and camp on the boat in our slip, a 6 watt unit might be questionable, but a 12 watt sounds like it would be closer to what I need. Otherwise, I can purchase a trickle charger maintainer which will run on shore power. However, there's great likelyhood we will be taking our Mac to some other lakes and setting the hook where I likely won't have the opportunity to plug her in. I was just curious what other's experience has been w/ solar. I'd like to hear more from other Mac owners who have gone with it.
 
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caguy

Charging a Mac 25

I have a 25' mac the Honda motor plugs in to the back of the boat via a Perko plug. Can I plug a solar charger into there and charge the battery? Does the main switch have to remain on? Is shutting off all of the fuse switches ok?
 
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Chris & Lenore - Mac 26S

Our experience with solar

We currently have a single 75 amp/hr deepcycle battery and a 5 watt solar panel. The OB alternator is also connected. We spend every weekend on board for the summer, usually extending each to 3 days. Also, a two week cruise in the North Channel and a week somewhere else. Running VHF, depth, speed, GPS while underway (Tiller pilot ocassionally) and limited use of cabin lights at night. Never run out of power yet. The ocasional OB use and the 5 watt panel top the battery competely up between sailings. I run a simple power monitor - the type that translates voltage to a LED display of 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% charge. Not that accurate but a good "rule of thumb" for the price. This year I plan to add one of the new 30 watt monocrystaline panels. These are smaller than the previous generation 15 watt panels, by about a third. For the Canadians, Canadian Tire has these for $350. Note that not all stores have this latest 30 watt. The previous was the size of the old 15 watt - don't buy that one. The new one will fit on the rear rail and still leave room for a stern ladder. Should be more than enough power. Chris
 

JVB

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Jan 26, 2006
270
Schock Wavelength 24 Lake Murray, SC
Solar charger

The magic formula is: Watts = Volts x Amps Under prime conditions a 6 watt solar panel will produce (6 watts / 15 volts) or 0.4 amps of charging current. That will only make up for very light power usage. One way to figure out how much solar panel you need is by using the spreadsheet at this website: http://www.rpc.com.au/reindex.html?http://www.rpc.com.au/products/services/faq-info/calc/calculator.html Note that inverters are power hogs. You will probably need a 75 watt (75/15 = 5 amps) or so solar panel to recharge your 70 amp-hour battery in 14 hours (70 AmpHour / 5 Amps = 14 Hours) of prime sunlight. In practice I would expect to average 4 days to recharge an almost fully discharged deep cycle battery. Or you can do some experimentation using the table below to find out how much power you typically use. You will need a digital voltmeter to get the accuracy required. Be careful that you are not just measuring the surface charge. To properly check the voltages, the battery should sit at rest for a few hours after charging, or you should put a small load on it, such as a small automotive bulb, for a few minutes. The voltages below apply to ALL Lead-Acid batteries, except gelled. For gel cells, subtract .2 volts. Note that the voltages when actually charging will be quite different, so do not use these numbers for a battery that is under charge. Here are no-load typical voltages vs state of charge: 100% 12.7 volt 90% 12.5 80% 12.42 70% 12.32 60% 12.20 50% 12.06 40% 11.90 30% 11.75 20% 11.58 10% 11.31 0% 10.50
 
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Chris & Lenore - Mac 26S

Not hard to keep everything running...

It's really lighting and various toys that are a problem. Our current 5 watt panel produces between 300 and 350ma for (typically) 9 hours on a reasonably clear summer day (works same in haze). VHF on receive, gps, depth/speed draw 250ma. This is all measured - and we the devices were selected with curent draw in mind. We only use the autotiller when under power (sailing = fun, motoring = BORING)so the 3 amp engine alternator takes care of it. Same with navigation lights - typically only when motoring as we rarely sail in the dark (I may BE in the dark however...). That gives us a little charging when sailing and more when not - and a lot more with the occasional use of the OB. This has to equal what you use when the sun is low and overnight. Our homemade anchor light only draws 50 ma/hr - and is 10+ times brighter than a Mega in apparent brightness. If it runs for 10 hours, thats 500ma. The main cabin light is a small single tube florescent with a 55ma draw and is used no more than 2 hours (hey, that takes you to almost 11pm in the summer). That's 110ma. Head uses a "dot it" LED and the kids up front use LED booklights but generaly turn in before dark (yes, sailing actually tires them out!). It's easy to replace the 610 ma in a typical day, especially if you use the OB at all. The killers are "powerboat" marine sound systems (can drain a battery in 4 hours), conventional lights, laptops, DVP players and 12 volt blenders (OH NO!). The latter item is what's prompting us to install the 30 watt micro-panel. Chris
 
May 4, 2005
4,062
Macgregor 26d Ft Lauderdale, Fl
did you say blender???

quote: " 12 volt blenders " anyone seen this??? http://www.boatblender.com/ I hear you can 'hard-wire' old 12v - 18v drills directly to the battery... (when the battery no longer holds a charge, toss the battery and sodder wires to the drills terminals... and a cigarette lighter plug - I think read that one on practical-sailor.com the Black & Decker battery powered rechargable blenders stink... maybe 1 or 2 batches with tiny cubes... or for the 'over the top' set: 2 stroke gas powered! they work! http://www.totallygross.com/ http://www.totallygross.com/specs.html
 
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Chris & Lenore - Mac 26S

Yes blender!

Yes – “blender’! I laughed when I heard someone call the proposed LEER cruise (Like BEER, only Lake Erie) a “daiquiri cruise”. Then I started thinking that something other than beer and wine might be an idea. Maybe we could rig a flex shaft (like on a Dremel) between the outboard and that “Boatblender”!!! Chris
 
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Greg

Blenders

I got this blender/salsa maker from an As Seen On TV store that makes great frozen margaritas. You power it by cranking it. No gas, no batteries, and it helps work up a thirst for the next margarita. Now as far as solar battery charging goes, 5 watts or less doesn't have to have a voltage regulator. But won't recharge your batteries after a good draw down either. Great for keeping your batteries topped up for the next weekend, and maybe get a few extra amp hours out of the system over the weekend. Any larger and you will need a regulator so you don't over charge your batteries. It would take a bunch of cells to keep up with what I use some days. There's not enough room on these small boats for all the cells I'd need. So I got a small, cheap 2 cycle generator that gives me 1000 watts 110 while charging the batteries at 10 amps. Gets the batteries charged up while I make coffee. I'd just add another battery if you have shore power available most of the time.
 
Jul 24, 2006
370
Macgregor 25 Tulsa, Ok.
YY

I saw a mod like that on the Mac sailor site, only downside I could see is the boom shading it. However, by adding a topping lift and no longer securing the boom to the backstay pig tail, I could tie off to one side of the pushpit or the other so that it's not shaded completely down the middle. It would also simplify my wiring it into my system.
 
Oct 26, 2004
321
Macgregor 26X Denton Co. TX USA
Solar charging specs

I've used solar panels since 1997. Currently have 331 watts of panels installed going to six Optima batteries in boat and travel trailer. Here are some things to know. Lead acid batteries wet cell open or sealed or AGM or require a minimum of 14.4 volts and 10 amps to fully recharge properly in a reasonable length of time. Two amps will work if steady for 48 hours or more in a multistage charger that tapers and adjusts the charge and voltage as necessary per time. Best done with shore power 3 or 4 stage charger or alterator with regulator rated for more than 10 amps running coninuously. Anything less than 10 amps or done in starts and stops like motor use will refresh, or replace some capacity but not fully recharge and will shorten your battery's life by reducing the number of cycles with which it can be recharged due to lead sulphate buildup on the plates. If you only want to keep a fully charged battery at or near maximum charge, then the total of solar sources plus engine operations should be more than your actual draw down. Your energy budget should include engine start, navigation lights, cabin lights, spotlights. Be especially aware of many things that draw phantom current because although turned off, they are still on to retain memory or have instant on features. Cell phone recharging, VHF, weather and FM radios, TVs, laptops,ipods, etc. If your solar charging panel, in amps, is more than 1% of your battery's capacity in amps, then you need a solar regulator to avoid overheating, overcharging the battery which also shortens battery life and boils off fluid. Solar panels are best wired directly to the battery terminals with a fuse in the positive lead. Do not lead the panel to a switch that can be turned off. The impedance of the switch reduces your throughput and leads to a situation where the batter is not being charged if the switch off is forgotten or overlooked. In figuring the effectiveness of your charging system, only figure in 5 hours per day of solar panel maximum output due to sun angle through the atmosphere and angle of incidence reducing the output of the panel.Keeping the surface of the panel clean is important. Face it toward the sun if at all possible. Hazy or overcast, or heavy pollution days wil reduce the effectiveness of the panels. Maximum rated output is seldom achieved during the high heat of summer or the extreme cold of winter as temperature affects the charging capacity of the solar panels. Some panels are still sold that have only a 10 or 11% efficiency. The current best have efficiencies of 15% or better. My first panel was a Unisolar flexible 11 watt panel for the boat which stil functions well for it's intended purpose of keeping a battery charged while the battery is not being used,that has already been fully charged with a 3 stage AC charger. For serious use of active systems I use Kyocera multicrystalline rigid panels because they are 15% efficient, guaranteed for 25 years, and can be found for less cost than others that are not guaranteed for as long and are less efficient. High cost does not mean high quality, but may only reflect local demand and supply or seller's greed. A decent price currently for a efficient solar panel is between $5.15 and $5.50 per watt. Hope this helps.
 
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