I have peeling bottom paint and would like to clean to gel coat and repaint. Does anyone have experience with Soda Blasting? Potential gel coat damage, how to recoat the keel, cost... Any information/suggestions will be appreciated.
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Why?
Gerry: Why do you want to take it down to the gel coat? Power washing usually gets most of the flaking paint off. If you are going to go ahead with the total paint removal, be sure to do like Honeyman suggested and put on a barrier coat before repainting. Their are very explicit instructions on the attached web site on how to prep and coat the keel too.
Gerry: Why do you want to take it down to the gel coat? Power washing usually gets most of the flaking paint off. If you are going to go ahead with the total paint removal, be sure to do like Honeyman suggested and put on a barrier coat before repainting. Their are very explicit instructions on the attached web site on how to prep and coat the keel too.
Done my Research
I have a 1984 h31. It has sat in a yard for many years. I was about to do the same and have had 3 reputable yards tell me that the best and only way they will strip a hull of bottom paint is with stripper. The EBA has all but disallowed any type of sand or other types of blasting. It all surrounds the removal of the waist. You will need a complete tent system and water recovery system...... on and on and on. The yards all say that the new types of paint removers are quite effective and allow for controlled removal of the paint. They also are very gental on the gel coat. Also if you do go down to bare gel coat a barrier coat is a must.
I have a 1984 h31. It has sat in a yard for many years. I was about to do the same and have had 3 reputable yards tell me that the best and only way they will strip a hull of bottom paint is with stripper. The EBA has all but disallowed any type of sand or other types of blasting. It all surrounds the removal of the waist. You will need a complete tent system and water recovery system...... on and on and on. The yards all say that the new types of paint removers are quite effective and allow for controlled removal of the paint. They also are very gental on the gel coat. Also if you do go down to bare gel coat a barrier coat is a must.
Oceansail
why is a barrier coat a must? I know they are good to have, but you make it sound like an absolute requirement. Why?
why is a barrier coat a must? I know they are good to have, but you make it sound like an absolute requirement. Why?
Why
It is called blisters. You do not want to get these and you will if you do not put a barrier coat on. Once you get a blister you have a much bigger porblem.
It is called blisters. You do not want to get these and you will if you do not put a barrier coat on. Once you get a blister you have a much bigger porblem.
Another blasting post recently
but primarily focused on blistering. You can find it here http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums/pviewall.tpl?sku=2007059161136.50&fno=441#2007060072027.8 To recap my comment there - I had my bottom soda blasted for about $30/ft and that uncovered (and popped) a fair amount of small blisters that were hidden by several coats of paint. I repaired the blisters, then barrier coated and VC-17'd the bottom myself. Painting/repair time was just over 1.5 hours per foot. The paints totalled about $10/ft (3-coats barrier, 2-ablative). The yard offered to do the whole thing, blasting, repair, barrier and ablative, for $55/ft - probably a fair price. Best of luck.
but primarily focused on blistering. You can find it here http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums/pviewall.tpl?sku=2007059161136.50&fno=441#2007060072027.8 To recap my comment there - I had my bottom soda blasted for about $30/ft and that uncovered (and popped) a fair amount of small blisters that were hidden by several coats of paint. I repaired the blisters, then barrier coated and VC-17'd the bottom myself. Painting/repair time was just over 1.5 hours per foot. The paints totalled about $10/ft (3-coats barrier, 2-ablative). The yard offered to do the whole thing, blasting, repair, barrier and ablative, for $55/ft - probably a fair price. Best of luck.
Great results with less work
I've gone through this a couple of times and done well with a lot less work. I take twice as long with a pressure washer which can greatly lessen the amount of sanding. Then, using a grinder, I grind out any blisters, making sure to taper the edges in all directions. I scrub out the blister craters with soapy water and wait until I'm sure they're dry. I then coat these ground-out areas with a water barrier, sand lightly when dry, fill with an epoxy filler made for this purpose, then paint the bottom. Using this process, I only end up hauling the boat every three years and only have about a dozen or two small blisters. A couple of tips about blisters. - They contain acid, which can be under high pressure. Use eye protection and poke them from a direction away from you. - They will shrink after a few days on-the-hard, so mark them the first day. The last time I hauled the boat, the keel was very pitted. I tried grinding the metal smooth, but this proved too laborious. I applied two coats of special metal primer. Then, I ended up fairing the entire keel with epoxy resin (West System) mixed with a strong structural silicone filler. I sanded it all smooth, then applied the bottom paint. Details and photos can be viewed at the following web page: Scott Key West
I've gone through this a couple of times and done well with a lot less work. I take twice as long with a pressure washer which can greatly lessen the amount of sanding. Then, using a grinder, I grind out any blisters, making sure to taper the edges in all directions. I scrub out the blister craters with soapy water and wait until I'm sure they're dry. I then coat these ground-out areas with a water barrier, sand lightly when dry, fill with an epoxy filler made for this purpose, then paint the bottom. Using this process, I only end up hauling the boat every three years and only have about a dozen or two small blisters. A couple of tips about blisters. - They contain acid, which can be under high pressure. Use eye protection and poke them from a direction away from you. - They will shrink after a few days on-the-hard, so mark them the first day. The last time I hauled the boat, the keel was very pitted. I tried grinding the metal smooth, but this proved too laborious. I applied two coats of special metal primer. Then, I ended up fairing the entire keel with epoxy resin (West System) mixed with a strong structural silicone filler. I sanded it all smooth, then applied the bottom paint. Details and photos can be viewed at the following web page: Scott Key West
dry ice instead
if you are going to have it done. use dry ice in stead of soda. the ice blasting leaves no residue and allows you to not have to reclean the hull after blasting.
if you are going to have it done. use dry ice in stead of soda. the ice blasting leaves no residue and allows you to not have to reclean the hull after blasting.
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