Have a smelly question. We were away from the boat for a couple of weeks and when we pulled supposedly fresh water from our galley faucet, the smell about knocked us out. It has a distinctly sulfer smell that permeates the entire interior of the boat and is in the bilge when the water drained. We completely (as we could) drained both water tanks, and refilled them with fresh water and some purifier we got from a mobile home outlet. We thought we had the problem licked, but a week letter the smell was back. Anybody ever enountered this? Any ideas? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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had the same problem
cleaned the tank, rinsed and allowed to compleatly dry out. Filled with new water, waited , same problem. Found out the marina i had filled at uses non potable water on its outer docks for wash down. check your water source???
cleaned the tank, rinsed and allowed to compleatly dry out. Filled with new water, waited , same problem. Found out the marina i had filled at uses non potable water on its outer docks for wash down. check your water source???
Bad Water Smell
I've had eight boats and never had a water (smell) problem. On several of these, the water sat for most of the year, as we only day sailed.My friend has a 45 foot Morgan, and has the same problem you have. His is due to the water supply at his marina. When he "tanks up" at my marina, he has no problem.
I've had eight boats and never had a water (smell) problem. On several of these, the water sat for most of the year, as we only day sailed.My friend has a 45 foot Morgan, and has the same problem you have. His is due to the water supply at his marina. When he "tanks up" at my marina, he has no problem.
Organic Bacteria
Having been around wells for most of my life. I feel that you have an organic bacteria growing in your water system.(Stagnation) If you have running or moving water the bacteria does not get a chance to grow to the point where it is noticeable. There is bacteria in all water - more in most well systems. When the water stands for a period of time it will begin to smell as a result of the bacteria growing and can smell much like sulfur. You did not say how old your boat is, it is very possible that you have organic matter in your water tanks. (algae or dead algae) If this is the problem, a solution of water and bleach added to the tanks for two days will kill the bacteria. Do not use the water from the tanks until you have thoroughly flushed them afterwards. Sulfur smells in water usually come from very shallow well systems in areas that have a lot of minerals. Where does your water come from? I doubt if you have sulfur smells from city water.
Having been around wells for most of my life. I feel that you have an organic bacteria growing in your water system.(Stagnation) If you have running or moving water the bacteria does not get a chance to grow to the point where it is noticeable. There is bacteria in all water - more in most well systems. When the water stands for a period of time it will begin to smell as a result of the bacteria growing and can smell much like sulfur. You did not say how old your boat is, it is very possible that you have organic matter in your water tanks. (algae or dead algae) If this is the problem, a solution of water and bleach added to the tanks for two days will kill the bacteria. Do not use the water from the tanks until you have thoroughly flushed them afterwards. Sulfur smells in water usually come from very shallow well systems in areas that have a lot of minerals. Where does your water come from? I doubt if you have sulfur smells from city water.
Recommission the fresh water system
Fresh water system problems--foul odor or taste--are typically caused by allowing water to stagnate in the system. Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many people—and even some boat manufacturers—believe that keeping the tanks empty reduce the problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark home for those “critters.” There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh, but all that’s really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system—tank and plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated. Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete. Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed line; however the first two buckets of ice—the bucket generated during recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be discarded. 1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup (4 oz) Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorite solution ). With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity. 2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines 3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours. 4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat. 5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion. 6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water. Also see link below...
Fresh water system problems--foul odor or taste--are typically caused by allowing water to stagnate in the system. Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many people—and even some boat manufacturers—believe that keeping the tanks empty reduce the problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark home for those “critters.” There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh, but all that’s really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system—tank and plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated. Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete. Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed line; however the first two buckets of ice—the bucket generated during recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be discarded. 1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup (4 oz) Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorite solution ). With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity. 2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines 3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours. 4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat. 5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion. 6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water. Also see link below...
Sulfer Smells
I had the same problem with a hot water heater and talked to a local mechanic. He indicated that it comes from the heating element and that there is, in some of them, a chemical that reacts with the water and can produce a sulfer dioxide/oxide that permeates the water. This happened to me when I used the AC powered heating and then did not use the hot water very much. It was a couple of years ago, and I think I had the heating element replaced and then made a point of using the hot water more often and I never had another problem.
I had the same problem with a hot water heater and talked to a local mechanic. He indicated that it comes from the heating element and that there is, in some of them, a chemical that reacts with the water and can produce a sulfer dioxide/oxide that permeates the water. This happened to me when I used the AC powered heating and then did not use the hot water very much. It was a couple of years ago, and I think I had the heating element replaced and then made a point of using the hot water more often and I never had another problem.
Wow! Thanks for all the great feedback. I'm sure there is a solution here! Will keep you all posted. Best regards to all.
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