Smelly “fresh” water

GWG

.
May 3, 2010
53
Beneteau 40 LI Sound
Seeming all of a sudden my fresh water turned putrid. There’s grit, the water is cloudy and stinks.
I’m thinking that I have to empty the tanks and somehow disinfect them before refilling them. Oddly I didn’t have a probl when I first refilled the tanks.
 
Jun 14, 2010
2,105
Robertson & Caine 2017 Leopard 40 CT
The following is copied from one of Peggie Hall‘s old posts: I saved it in my “notes” app and may have edited portions.

“FRESH WATER MAINTENANCE
Fresh water system problems--foul odor or taste--are typically caused by allowing water to stagnate in the tank and especially the lines, creating the ideal environment for molds, fungi and bacteria that thrive in damp dark places. Here's the recommended method for recommissioning fresh water systems; this should be done at least annually:

Fill the water tank with a solution of 1 cup (8 oz) of household bleach per 10 gallon tank capacity. Turn on every faucet on the boat (including a deck wash if you have one), and allow the water to run until what's coming out smells strongly of bleach. Turn off the faucets, but leave the system pressurized so the solution remains in the lines.

Let stand overnight--at least 8 hours--but NO LONGER THAN 24 hours. Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, 'cuz what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat, repeating till the water runs clean and smells and tastes clean.

Remember: cleaning out the tank addresses only the least of the problem...most of the problem occurs in the lines, so it's very important to leave the system pressurized while the bleach solution is in the tank to keep the solution in the lines too.

People have expressed concern about using this method to recommission aluminum tanks. While bleach (chlorine) IS corrosive, the effect of an annual or semi-annual "shock treatment" is negligible compared to the cumulative effect of holding chlorinated city water in the tank for years. Nevertheless, it's a good idea to mix the total amount of bleach in a few gallons of water before putting it into either a stainless or aluminum tank.

People have also expressed concern about the potential damage to rubber and neoprene water pump parts. Again-the cumulative effect of carrying chlorinated water is more damaging than the occasional "shock treatment." Occasionally, a water pump has been known to fail immediately after recommissioning, but it's always been an older pump in which the diaphragm and/or valve were already "on their last legs" and would have failed soon anyway. Far better to "push it over the edge" during spring recommissioning than have it fail a month later at sea with no replacement parts aboard.

To keep the water system cleaner longer, use your fresh water...keep water flowing through system. The molds, fungi, and bacteria only start to grow in hoses that aren't being used. Before filling the tank each time, always let the dock water run for at least 15 minutes first...the same critters that like the lines on your boat LOVE the dock supply line and your hose that sit in the warm sun, and you don't want to transfer water that's been sitting in the dock supply line to your boat's system. So let the water run long enough to flush out all the water that's been standing in them so that what goes into your boat is coming straight from the water main.

Finally, while the molds, fungi and bacteria in onboard water systems here in the US may not be pleasant, we're dealing only with aesthetics...water purity isn't an issue here--or in most developed nations...the water supply has already been purified (unless you're using well-water). However, when cruising out of the country, it's a good idea to know what you're putting in your tanks...and if you're in any doubt, boil all water that's to be drunk or used to wash dishes, and/or treat each tankful to purify. It's even more important in these areas to let the water run before putting it in the tank-wash the boat, whatever it takes...'cuz any harmful bacteria will REALLY proliferate in water hoses left sitting on the dock.”
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,735
- - LIttle Rock
Those directions haven't changed much since I first found 'em in 1989. I've included 'em in both my books and you'll also find 'em on just about every RV site.

--Peggie
 
Apr 8, 2011
768
Hunter 40 Deale, MD
That's gold right there from the expert - Peggy Hall. Full stop.

Two other tips, FWIW:
1. Let the dock hose run 5 min before putting its water in your tanks
2. Use an inline water filter on the hose as you fill. Camco makes several for RVs/boats that are high flow and range from 100 to 20 micron, and Clear2O makes a 1 micron high flow filter. In Virginia I can get them at Walmart. The Camco filters are ~$20, and the Clear2O is ~$30. They have charcoal activation in them as well. I use them after shocking at the start of the season every time I fill my tank. And as Peggy says - every time you're on the boat use EVERY water outlet.
 
May 17, 2004
5,092
Beneteau Oceanis 37 Havre de Grace
2. Use an inline water filter on the hose as you fill. Camco makes several for RVs/boats that are high flow and range from 100 to 20 micron, and Clear2O makes a 1 micron high flow filter. In Virginia I can get them at Walmart. The Camco filters are ~$20, and the Clear2O is ~$30. They have charcoal activation in them as well.
I have a question about that - The charcoal will remove chlorine from the water before it goes into the tank. Does that increase the chances of anything growing in the tank? Or does the tap water chlorine not provide any significant benefit in the tank anyway?
 
Apr 8, 2011
768
Hunter 40 Deale, MD
I have a question about that - The charcoal will remove chlorine from the water before it goes into the tank. Does that increase the chances of anything growing in the tank? Or does the tap water chlorine not provide any significant benefit in the tank anyway?
No idea - my thought is it removes bacteria and other nasties via the filter, and impurities in the water introduced between the purification plant and my boat that any chlorine in the water hasn't already killed. Shocking, then filtering, and using all taps regularly work great to keep my boat fresh water drinkable and odor free. NOT using a filter has DEFINITELY resulted in stinky water, and required shocking with bleach to get rid of it.

YMMV
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,735
- - LIttle Rock
I have a question about that - The charcoal will remove chlorine from the water before it goes into the tank. Does that increase the chances of anything growing in the tank? Or does the tap water chlorine not provide any significant benefit in the tank anyway?
The answer to both questions is yes. And adding a "little" bleach to each fill does more harm than good because bleach is corrosive. Using high "doses" of it to recommission the tank does no harm because it only remains in the tank for a few hours. If you must filter, a faucet filter on the galley sink is really all you need.

Tfox's suggestion to let the water run for 5 minutes is a good one...although whether 5 minutes is long enough depends on the length of the dock supply line. Water should not only be run long enough ahead of filling the water tank to purge your own hose, but more importantly all the water that's been sitting in it "simmering" the summer heat. If a bunch of people on the dock are already using water, you may only need to clean out your own hose. You'll know how long to let water run 'cuz water directly from the main is a lot colder than water that's been in the dock supply line.

One more thing: USE your water! The faster it "turns over," the better it will smell and taste.

--Peggie
 
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Jan 7, 2011
4,810
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
One more thing: USE your water! The faster it "turns over," the better it will smell and taste.
--Peggie
My problem is that I don’t use my 60 gallons fast enough...so I always add a splash of bleach to the tanks when I fill them. Even then I have had a tank get “skunky” in the warm summer...

I don’t drink from the tanks...I keep some gallon jugs for drinking or coffee.

Greg
 
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Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
My problem is that I don’t use my 60 gallons fast enough...so I always add a splash of bleach to the tanks when I fill them. Even then I have had a tank get “skunky” in the warm summer... I don’t drink from the tanks...I keep some gallon jugs for drinking or coffee.
You don't have to "use" your water. If you are coming back from a weekend cruise or whatever, turn the faucets on at the dock and pump all the water out, save maybe enough to use at the dock. Before the next cruise, open the faucets and run the tanks till dry. THEN fill them before departure, perhaps with the suggested dosage on the bottle(2 oz per 20 gal, I think). I do this all summer and it keeps the water fresh. I do take bottles, each premeasued to make a pot full of coffee, and a small jar premeasured with enough coffee to make the pot. No measuring, so any of the slaves crew can make it... the way the skipper prefers!
 
Jan 7, 2011
4,810
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
I am too lazy to do that. I do rotate the tanks, and try to use as much as I can when on the boat, but when it is hot and humid (no a/c on my boat yet), it can get skunky. And I do use Peggy’s commissioning routine. But I don’t have a filter on my hose,..maybe that would help....

Greg
 
Nov 21, 2007
633
Beneteau Oceanis 34 Kingston, WA
Suggested dosage of what? If bleach, 2 oz/20 gal water will leave it smelling and tasting like a swimming pool!

--Peggie
Peggie, I was going to question the first reply. It uses a dosage of 8 oz. per 10 Ga. :yikes:. I've used a spreadsheet which calculates how much bleach to use, can't remember if I found that through one of your posts or somewhere else... I'll look up the dosage that my spreadsheet recommends, but since you were the last post on here, I thought I'd ask you for clarification.

Edit; I found my spreadsheet. It says that it's used to calculate the shock treatment of storage tanks, and refers to a chlorine concentration of 10 mg/L of water. I plug in my 34 ga. capacity, and it tells me that I should use a little more than an 1/8 cup of bleach for that tank (0.16 cups). Does that sound familiar (or reasonable)? That level of concentration is for a 6 - 24 hour time period, there is a higher level of concentration for a shorter treatment period.
 
Last edited:
Dec 2, 1997
8,735
- - LIttle Rock
You didn't get that from me. The directions I've always published are "Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup (4 oz or 50 ml) Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorite solution ). With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity. (Those are the “official” directions. They work out to 1 quart or litre of bleach/50 gallons of water tank capacity , which is MUCH easier to calculate!) I've also always recommended that the quarts of bleach be in buckets of water to add it to the tank instead of pouring straight bleach into the tank.

That would make the correct dosage for your 34 gal tank about 2/3 quart. Since it will only remain in the tank a few hours, I don't think it would hurt to use a whole quart. It's also important to follow the directions for keeping the solution in the plumbing.

That's for recommissioning the system. Adding 2 oz (1/4 cup) bleach/20 gals water to every fill would put a whole cupful of bleach into an 80 gal tank...enough, as I said above, to make the water taste and smell like a swimming pool. I don't use that much to bleach white towels in the washer!

--Peggie
 
Nov 21, 2007
633
Beneteau Oceanis 34 Kingston, WA
Thank you, Peggy, for the clarifications! And for the emoji suggestion to the forum!