Here is a tricky one that has me stumped. I have a H 40 with a Link 2000R regulator/charger/inverter setup. The altenator is a Nielson 100 amp number. Problem is when the engine runs the alt (in charge or bulk phase) is putting out around 30 amps total. In time as the voltage rises it gets to 14.1 volts (gel cells) and switches to the accept phase. Out put amps in then increase to around 45 and gradually ramp down whilst holding to 14.1 volts as should be the case. Once charged parameters are met the float stage works fine. So the problem is it takes too long to get a full charge. I have had the altenator overhauled and no change. I have bought a new Xantrek smart reg and it does the same thing! I have changed the wiring harness. The altenator puts out full charge when the regulator is by passed by jumping the field wire with 12 volts. Any ideas?
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JC
I, too have a Link 200R on my 420. (With a Balmar 110amp alternator) Sounds like your charging system is operating normally. You say that the problem is it takes too long to get a full charge. Why do you think that it takes too long? Smart regulators, by the nature of how they regulate charging, cause longer charging times than "straight regulated" charging. Depending on how discharged my (AGM) batteries are, it can take many hours of engine running to reach "float". I have assumed that this is normal... If not, I would be interested in hearing other people's comments
I, too have a Link 200R on my 420. (With a Balmar 110amp alternator) Sounds like your charging system is operating normally. You say that the problem is it takes too long to get a full charge. Why do you think that it takes too long? Smart regulators, by the nature of how they regulate charging, cause longer charging times than "straight regulated" charging. Depending on how discharged my (AGM) batteries are, it can take many hours of engine running to reach "float". I have assumed that this is normal... If not, I would be interested in hearing other people's comments
how charged is charged?
Most of us sailors don't get a full charge while cursing. While at the dock all week sure the batteries get topped off but the nature of sailing precludes running the engine long enough to get more than about 85% charge on the batteries. There are several solutions to this: 1. buy a bigger bank of batteries 2. throw away your smart charger and cook your batteries for the small time you do motor. 3. buy a motor boat. Landsend solution does have merit and will help but will not solve the problem.
Most of us sailors don't get a full charge while cursing. While at the dock all week sure the batteries get topped off but the nature of sailing precludes running the engine long enough to get more than about 85% charge on the batteries. There are several solutions to this: 1. buy a bigger bank of batteries 2. throw away your smart charger and cook your batteries for the small time you do motor. 3. buy a motor boat. Landsend solution does have merit and will help but will not solve the problem.
Test procedure
The critical question is how much is your battery discharged when you start charging. If your house battery is down about 50%, then your regulator should start off putting in current at about a 85-90 amp rate. It will hold about there as the voltage rises. Then the amp rate will slowly taper down. If you do this test and you still see an initial 30 amp rate, run the sense wire directly to the house battery and try again. A temporary direct sense wire is simple to do. Often stuff in between, in the circuit, has the regulator misreading the battery's state of charge thru the sense wire. (Explaining what underlies this would take many pages) The sensing is done at the house battery because this is the one that goes down and needs to be charged. The start battery only loses a few amps on start and recovers them immediately. If that does not give you the answer, and your batteries are good, I would suspect a bad regulator for it could fail with these symptoms. The next step would be to follow the regulator mfg's test procedure. Allan
The critical question is how much is your battery discharged when you start charging. If your house battery is down about 50%, then your regulator should start off putting in current at about a 85-90 amp rate. It will hold about there as the voltage rises. Then the amp rate will slowly taper down. If you do this test and you still see an initial 30 amp rate, run the sense wire directly to the house battery and try again. A temporary direct sense wire is simple to do. Often stuff in between, in the circuit, has the regulator misreading the battery's state of charge thru the sense wire. (Explaining what underlies this would take many pages) The sensing is done at the house battery because this is the one that goes down and needs to be charged. The start battery only loses a few amps on start and recovers them immediately. If that does not give you the answer, and your batteries are good, I would suspect a bad regulator for it could fail with these symptoms. The next step would be to follow the regulator mfg's test procedure. Allan
How many Amp Hours Capacity?
In reading the responses, some of the authors seem to have a lot more knowledge than I have. I am, however, pretty sure that your battery bank amp hour capacity and battery type and configuration are necessary to answer your question. For instance, my AGM's came with a chart for charging time but it is a direct function of regulator charger type, output size, battery type and amp hours. I had a long standing issue caused by different battery sizes. Even though they were on separate circuits on the charger, they were combined during the alternator / engine charging stage. The larger battery would not top off. I think one of the advatages of AGM is that they can take a charge faster than a Gel. Does your regulator have a setting for battery type and is it set properly? I know our Link 2000 has settings for Heart Interface and our Balmar regulator has a magnetic switch to control all of these. Once you get all of your data and settings you can usually find a graph for approximate charging time. I have found Xantrex support to be both knowledgable and helpful. Good luck, Mike D
In reading the responses, some of the authors seem to have a lot more knowledge than I have. I am, however, pretty sure that your battery bank amp hour capacity and battery type and configuration are necessary to answer your question. For instance, my AGM's came with a chart for charging time but it is a direct function of regulator charger type, output size, battery type and amp hours. I had a long standing issue caused by different battery sizes. Even though they were on separate circuits on the charger, they were combined during the alternator / engine charging stage. The larger battery would not top off. I think one of the advatages of AGM is that they can take a charge faster than a Gel. Does your regulator have a setting for battery type and is it set properly? I know our Link 2000 has settings for Heart Interface and our Balmar regulator has a magnetic switch to control all of these. Once you get all of your data and settings you can usually find a graph for approximate charging time. I have found Xantrex support to be both knowledgable and helpful. Good luck, Mike D
Sense leads
Thanks for the feedback. All is set up according to the specs concerning amp hours etc. The sense lead tip is a good one however the shore power charger works fine and is monitored through the same sensing wires as the alt regulator so I would be surprised if this was the case but for the five minutes it takes to try I'm at it. Thanks.
Thanks for the feedback. All is set up according to the specs concerning amp hours etc. The sense lead tip is a good one however the shore power charger works fine and is monitored through the same sensing wires as the alt regulator so I would be surprised if this was the case but for the five minutes it takes to try I'm at it. Thanks.
calder
I suggest you buy & read Calder's book 'Boatowners Mechanical & Electrical Manual'. This is a complex subject. One of the many variables is temperature of the battery. A chart in this book gives examples of one manufacturers AGM charge acceptance rate based on temp. At 120 deg, max fast charge voltage is 14.1 v but at 40 degrees it is 15.1 v. Have you checked with the battery manufacturer to see what they recommend for charging voltages?
I suggest you buy & read Calder's book 'Boatowners Mechanical & Electrical Manual'. This is a complex subject. One of the many variables is temperature of the battery. A chart in this book gives examples of one manufacturers AGM charge acceptance rate based on temp. At 120 deg, max fast charge voltage is 14.1 v but at 40 degrees it is 15.1 v. Have you checked with the battery manufacturer to see what they recommend for charging voltages?
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