I have observed a number of the smaller MacGregor/Ventures (17, 21, 22, & 24) where the hull conforms to the trailer bunk (hull slightly dented in where it sits on the bunk). Typically, there are no stress cracks. However, given the age of these boats and the length of time they have sit like that, how bad is that for the hull? I assume this could be fixed by glassing in some stringers in the specific area of concern. Note, in the picture attached, there was no evidence of overloading the boat at the point where the hull had deformed over the trailer bunk. (No heavy gear in the locker or at the rear of the boat. Motor was always removed for trailering.) With the advent of the 26 (all models) MacGregor chose to run the bunks athwart ship as opposed to the traditional bunks that parallel the length of the trailer. Has anyone bought an aftermarket trailer with longitudinal bunks? If so how well is the load distrubuted with and without water ballast. Thanks for your input/comments. Steve <>< _/)
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I have observed a number of the smaller MacGregor/Ventures (17, 21, 22, & 24) where the hull conforms to the trailer bunk (hull slightly dented in where it sits on the bunk). Typically, there are no stress cracks. However, given the age of these boats and the length of time they have sit like that, how bad is that for the hull? I assume this could be fixed by glassing in some stringers in the specific area of concern. Note, in the picture attached, there was no evidence of overloading the boat at the point where the hull had deformed over the trailer bunk. (No heavy gear in the locker or at the rear of the boat. Motor was always removed for trailering.) With the advent of the 26 (all models) MacGregor chose to run the bunks athwart ship as opposed to the traditional bunks that parallel the length of the trailer. Has anyone bought an aftermarket trailer with longitudinal bunks? If so how well is the load distrubuted with and without water ballast. Thanks for your input/comments. Steve <>< _/)
30 years old
I have a 30 year old Venture 222 and when purchased got it off its original trailer! There were no dents in the glass and today I have it actually on a newer regular adjustable boat trailer and have no problems with dents of any kind in the glass! Actually my bunks are straight! I have heard about what you are talking about, but havent actually seen it! The bunks I have run parallel to the original bracing inside the boat hull! I believe anything is fixable and certainly that problem could be taken care of! Dennis
I have a 30 year old Venture 222 and when purchased got it off its original trailer! There were no dents in the glass and today I have it actually on a newer regular adjustable boat trailer and have no problems with dents of any kind in the glass! Actually my bunks are straight! I have heard about what you are talking about, but havent actually seen it! The bunks I have run parallel to the original bracing inside the boat hull! I believe anything is fixable and certainly that problem could be taken care of! Dennis
30 years old
I have a 30 year old Venture 222 and when purchased got it off its original trailer! There were no dents in the glass and today I have it actually on a newer regular adjustable boat trailer and have no problems with dents of any kind in the glass! Actually my bunks are straight! I have heard about what you are talking about, but havent actually seen it! The bunks I have run parallel to the original bracing inside the boat hull! I believe anything is fixable and certainly that problem could be taken care of! Dennis
I have a 30 year old Venture 222 and when purchased got it off its original trailer! There were no dents in the glass and today I have it actually on a newer regular adjustable boat trailer and have no problems with dents of any kind in the glass! Actually my bunks are straight! I have heard about what you are talking about, but havent actually seen it! The bunks I have run parallel to the original bracing inside the boat hull! I believe anything is fixable and certainly that problem could be taken care of! Dennis
Macgregor bunk
Trailers and bunks have been well discussed before. The 22 usually has an indentation typically on the starboard bow for some reason, and the 25s sometimes indent at the stern like in your photo. Here are some findings. The worst case was a boat in the southwest that sat in intense heat for years; the dent has become permanent, although possibly fixable. Usually the dent dissappears when the boat is off the trailer with no apparent effect. Some feel that fiberglass is flexible and can handle this. Technically, the flexing is bad for the fglass as it is fundametally a rigid material. Despite diving boards and other flexing fglass products, there is microscopic proof that damage occurs. My 22 had a bad indentation when on the trailer. The first thing I found was that the bunkboards were rotten, and that the weight was on the 4 support posts rather than being distributed along the bunk. I decided to replace the beams as they were, but if that didn't help, to increase the stiffness (thickness). The other thing I did was to make the boards longer; they end rather close to the support post and could benefit from being cantelevered further along the hull. I think the fact that the port side did not flex was because of some internal forms that the starboard side didn't have. Stringers would have been hard to include with the lining there, but far easier under the cockpit where there is no liner. While not familiar with the 25, I have seen it on its trailer and the original trailer looks just too short for the weight hanging out back. I would be inclined to extend and reinforce the support. It is of course obvious that the weight of the keel should be on the trailer and not suspended on the hull for all models.
Trailers and bunks have been well discussed before. The 22 usually has an indentation typically on the starboard bow for some reason, and the 25s sometimes indent at the stern like in your photo. Here are some findings. The worst case was a boat in the southwest that sat in intense heat for years; the dent has become permanent, although possibly fixable. Usually the dent dissappears when the boat is off the trailer with no apparent effect. Some feel that fiberglass is flexible and can handle this. Technically, the flexing is bad for the fglass as it is fundametally a rigid material. Despite diving boards and other flexing fglass products, there is microscopic proof that damage occurs. My 22 had a bad indentation when on the trailer. The first thing I found was that the bunkboards were rotten, and that the weight was on the 4 support posts rather than being distributed along the bunk. I decided to replace the beams as they were, but if that didn't help, to increase the stiffness (thickness). The other thing I did was to make the boards longer; they end rather close to the support post and could benefit from being cantelevered further along the hull. I think the fact that the port side did not flex was because of some internal forms that the starboard side didn't have. Stringers would have been hard to include with the lining there, but far easier under the cockpit where there is no liner. While not familiar with the 25, I have seen it on its trailer and the original trailer looks just too short for the weight hanging out back. I would be inclined to extend and reinforce the support. It is of course obvious that the weight of the keel should be on the trailer and not suspended on the hull for all models.
Macgregor bunk
Trailers and bunks have been well discussed before. The 22 usually has an indentation typically on the starboard bow for some reason, and the 25s sometimes indent at the stern like in your photo. Here are some findings. The worst case was a boat in the southwest that sat in intense heat for years; the dent has become permanent, although possibly fixable. Usually the dent dissappears when the boat is off the trailer with no apparent effect. Some feel that fiberglass is flexible and can handle this. Technically, the flexing is bad for the fglass as it is fundametally a rigid material. Despite diving boards and other flexing fglass products, there is microscopic proof that damage occurs. My 22 had a bad indentation when on the trailer. The first thing I found was that the bunkboards were rotten, and that the weight was on the 4 support posts rather than being distributed along the bunk. I decided to replace the beams as they were, but if that didn't help, to increase the stiffness (thickness). The other thing I did was to make the boards longer; they end rather close to the support post and could benefit from being cantelevered further along the hull. I think the fact that the port side did not flex was because of some internal forms that the starboard side didn't have. Stringers would have been hard to include with the lining there, but far easier under the cockpit where there is no liner. While not familiar with the 25, I have seen it on its trailer and the original trailer looks just too short for the weight hanging out back. I would be inclined to extend and reinforce the support. It is of course obvious that the weight of the keel should be on the trailer and not suspended on the hull for all models.
Trailers and bunks have been well discussed before. The 22 usually has an indentation typically on the starboard bow for some reason, and the 25s sometimes indent at the stern like in your photo. Here are some findings. The worst case was a boat in the southwest that sat in intense heat for years; the dent has become permanent, although possibly fixable. Usually the dent dissappears when the boat is off the trailer with no apparent effect. Some feel that fiberglass is flexible and can handle this. Technically, the flexing is bad for the fglass as it is fundametally a rigid material. Despite diving boards and other flexing fglass products, there is microscopic proof that damage occurs. My 22 had a bad indentation when on the trailer. The first thing I found was that the bunkboards were rotten, and that the weight was on the 4 support posts rather than being distributed along the bunk. I decided to replace the beams as they were, but if that didn't help, to increase the stiffness (thickness). The other thing I did was to make the boards longer; they end rather close to the support post and could benefit from being cantelevered further along the hull. I think the fact that the port side did not flex was because of some internal forms that the starboard side didn't have. Stringers would have been hard to include with the lining there, but far easier under the cockpit where there is no liner. While not familiar with the 25, I have seen it on its trailer and the original trailer looks just too short for the weight hanging out back. I would be inclined to extend and reinforce the support. It is of course obvious that the weight of the keel should be on the trailer and not suspended on the hull for all models.
Looks familiar
Your photo looks exactly like my '84 Mac 25. I'm sure the bunk boards are way too flexible, but when I replace them (maybe with 2x8 instead of 2x6 and a bit longer) how do I recreate the curve of the hull? If I just cover some treated lumber with carpet and bolt it onto the trailer will the bolts prevent it from curving or should one of the mounting bolts be in a slot rather than a round hole so it can elongate?
Your photo looks exactly like my '84 Mac 25. I'm sure the bunk boards are way too flexible, but when I replace them (maybe with 2x8 instead of 2x6 and a bit longer) how do I recreate the curve of the hull? If I just cover some treated lumber with carpet and bolt it onto the trailer will the bolts prevent it from curving or should one of the mounting bolts be in a slot rather than a round hole so it can elongate?
Bunk slots
You are quite right, the holes on the V-222 trailer are slots that allow the bunk to stretch into a curve. I think the slots were in the mounting bracket rather than the wood; using large washers and locknuts will allow the board to slide. The boards for this boat are straight, the boat creates the curve and the bend is limited by the bunk touching the trailer at max. The resistance of the board bending is what distributes support along its length, instead of at the mounting points. Not as familiar with the M25 trailer.
You are quite right, the holes on the V-222 trailer are slots that allow the bunk to stretch into a curve. I think the slots were in the mounting bracket rather than the wood; using large washers and locknuts will allow the board to slide. The boards for this boat are straight, the boat creates the curve and the bend is limited by the bunk touching the trailer at max. The resistance of the board bending is what distributes support along its length, instead of at the mounting points. Not as familiar with the M25 trailer.
Bunks on a Mac 22 trailer
I noticed a "dent" in my hull shortly after I bought my boat and trailered it a ways (wasn't there before I started my journey). I launched the boat ASAP and discovered that one of the 2X6s had started to rot and most of the weight at that part of the hull was over the 2in x 3in piece of channel iron that my bunk board was bolted to. I replaced my 8 ft 2x6 bunks with 12 ft 2x8s. I also added 6 in square "spreader" plates of 1/4 in thick steel on top of the tiny channel iron to spread the boat's weight to a larger area of the bunk board. I slotted the holes in the boards to enable them to "give" a little. So, now I have the weight of the boat spread over a larger area (8 in wide vs 6 in and about 10 ft long instead of 8, on both bunks). The bunk boards conform to the shape of the hull simply due to the weight of the boat but there is no "oil canning" of the hull due to the hull weight being spread over the larger area. I'm happy with the set up.
I noticed a "dent" in my hull shortly after I bought my boat and trailered it a ways (wasn't there before I started my journey). I launched the boat ASAP and discovered that one of the 2X6s had started to rot and most of the weight at that part of the hull was over the 2in x 3in piece of channel iron that my bunk board was bolted to. I replaced my 8 ft 2x6 bunks with 12 ft 2x8s. I also added 6 in square "spreader" plates of 1/4 in thick steel on top of the tiny channel iron to spread the boat's weight to a larger area of the bunk board. I slotted the holes in the boards to enable them to "give" a little. So, now I have the weight of the boat spread over a larger area (8 in wide vs 6 in and about 10 ft long instead of 8, on both bunks). The bunk boards conform to the shape of the hull simply due to the weight of the boat but there is no "oil canning" of the hull due to the hull weight being spread over the larger area. I'm happy with the set up.
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