Any good references for small engine carburetor repairs. My 3.5 hp Nissan 2 stroke decided not to start yesterday on a lake at 5500 ft altitude. It was always hard to start since given to me. Changed plug, used carburetor spray, but always 10-30 pulls to start. I figure that gas turned to varnish inside. Rather than drop it off at a small engine repair shop, this problem reminds me that i have several small engines, from yard equip, snowmobiles, go-kart for kids, pressure washer, and 3 other outboards that get intermittent use and can be hard to start occ. The snowmobiles and outboards were gifts and they are 10 years old or more. They make me want to buy new for reliability, but i would rather learn how to fix them for the perverse pleasure of winning this battle with carburetors. I admit i don't winterize, but i do start the motors every other month and let them heat up their oil to get rid of moisture. I try to keep the tanks full of gas to keep out moisture. I'm trying to get the manuals, but would appreciate any references on the overall subject. Older jet skis, atvs, toys of every kind become cheap when they don't start on the second pull. I'll tackle diesel repair later. Thanks, Dan
Small engine carburetor repair
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Hello Dan...
...the iboats furums have a very good section for just this type of problems. Try here, then find the one for your motor. I have found the one on Evinrudes to be manned by some of the folks that used to work in the factories! http://forums.iboats.com/ Good luck Dan. Jack
...the iboats furums have a very good section for just this type of problems. Try here, then find the one for your motor. I have found the one on Evinrudes to be manned by some of the folks that used to work in the factories! http://forums.iboats.com/ Good luck Dan. Jack
Dan...
...about the manuals for these small motors...one of the guys on the iboat forums says that working on a boat moter without a manual for it...is ...well... Seriously get the manual. I think I got mine from Barnes and Noble or Amazon, one of those...I remember shipping was free which cheapened the cost by a bunch over getting it at a dealer. Jack
...about the manuals for these small motors...one of the guys on the iboat forums says that working on a boat moter without a manual for it...is ...well... Seriously get the manual. I think I got mine from Barnes and Noble or Amazon, one of those...I remember shipping was free which cheapened the cost by a bunch over getting it at a dealer. Jack
Bad Gas
The E-10 (Ethanol gas) has wreaked havoc in the 2-stroke outboard world. Be cautious with it since it causes most 2-cycles to foul. It only has a 2-month shelf life. So if it's older than that - get new fuel for it and put the older stuff into your car, even if it is already mixed with oil. Otherwise, tune up the engine the best that you can. Mfgr's say there is no problem using it, but speak to any motor repairman and they will tell you the same except that many, many engines are now requiring carburator repairs - for some reason - mine did, last year!
The E-10 (Ethanol gas) has wreaked havoc in the 2-stroke outboard world. Be cautious with it since it causes most 2-cycles to foul. It only has a 2-month shelf life. So if it's older than that - get new fuel for it and put the older stuff into your car, even if it is already mixed with oil. Otherwise, tune up the engine the best that you can. Mfgr's say there is no problem using it, but speak to any motor repairman and they will tell you the same except that many, many engines are now requiring carburator repairs - for some reason - mine did, last year!
TRY THIS SITE
DAN, SEARCH AROUND THE INTERNET. I FOUND AN ONLINE MANUAL FOR MY 1987, 5HP NISSAN. I WAS THEN ABLE TO CALL THE LOCAL MARINAS.THEY WERE ABLE TO ORDER THE PART FOR ME. FOR A START TRY THE NISSAN WEB SITE. RAY K.
DAN, SEARCH AROUND THE INTERNET. I FOUND AN ONLINE MANUAL FOR MY 1987, 5HP NISSAN. I WAS THEN ABLE TO CALL THE LOCAL MARINAS.THEY WERE ABLE TO ORDER THE PART FOR ME. FOR A START TRY THE NISSAN WEB SITE. RAY K.
Many thanks
for getting me started. Great to have a manual now Ray. I've got some fuel stabilizer and will put in fresh gas with it. I've read about fogging oil. Anyone used that? I know you are all commissioning rather than decommissioning, but i'll post the link from my research anyway to help me more than you if i lose it.
for getting me started. Great to have a manual now Ray. I've got some fuel stabilizer and will put in fresh gas with it. I've read about fogging oil. Anyone used that? I know you are all commissioning rather than decommissioning, but i'll post the link from my research anyway to help me more than you if i lose it.
fogging oil
Dan, you use the fogging oil only when you store the engine for extended periods-it coats the inside of the combustion chamber with a film of oil to prevent rusting and sticking over the winter
Dan, you use the fogging oil only when you store the engine for extended periods-it coats the inside of the combustion chamber with a film of oil to prevent rusting and sticking over the winter
The carb is very simple
I have cleaned the carb on my 2.5 Nissan several times with no manual, as it is very simple. I am somewhat familiar with simple carbs and don't know your experience. If you have ever rebuilt an auto carb - these are a piece of cake. Just be careful you put the needle and float back the way they came out and used compressed air on all the ports. For the needle valve, just count how many turns until it comes out and put it back the same. On the other hand, you could probably have that carb cleaned for an hour labor from a pro. Take off and put on the cowling yourself -as that is, on a Nissan, probably 1/3 of the job right there. At least if a pro does it the needle valve and other adjustments should be right on. Before storage, all you really need to do is close off the gas cock and run the engine dry. Empty the gas tank and let it dry out. That should be it.
I have cleaned the carb on my 2.5 Nissan several times with no manual, as it is very simple. I am somewhat familiar with simple carbs and don't know your experience. If you have ever rebuilt an auto carb - these are a piece of cake. Just be careful you put the needle and float back the way they came out and used compressed air on all the ports. For the needle valve, just count how many turns until it comes out and put it back the same. On the other hand, you could probably have that carb cleaned for an hour labor from a pro. Take off and put on the cowling yourself -as that is, on a Nissan, probably 1/3 of the job right there. At least if a pro does it the needle valve and other adjustments should be right on. Before storage, all you really need to do is close off the gas cock and run the engine dry. Empty the gas tank and let it dry out. That should be it.
Carb rebuild 101
I have built many carbs from Holly and Rockchester for cars and drag racers to lawn mores and weedwhackers, small engines are a walk in the park. Higgs is right on. just a word of caution. If you are not familiar with carbs be very careful taking it apart. get a beach towel or something like that and lay it out on a clean table, those little screws like to role all over the place .As you take the carb apart set the peaces on the cloth in the order you take them of so it is easer to go back together P.S. there is nothing wrong with taking pics as you take it apart for later reference ,also if you have a breakdown of the carb it will be very helpfull if you forget or get stopped for one reason or another. Like if you get a rebuild kit and the gaskets don't match and have to waite another two days for the right ones to come in. Been there done that. Deffinetily use compressed air to clean out every orfis. if you don't have a compressor use a can of air like for your computer.If you need to soak it,you should only have to soak for about an hour.and don't leave any rubber on the parts because the rubber will swell and then you have to replace it. Than wash off with water, use gloves if your hands are tender. blow dry with compressed air. your local parts store should have a gallon can of carb cleaner and it usually has a small metal basket in side to put the parts in. If you want to do it the cheap way get a can of oven cleaner wear gloves if your hands are tender and spray them down, let the foam do the work fore a few min. than wash of with water. blow it dry with the air, remember to blow every orfis they all go some where so you can feel the air as it exits its corresponding hole.repeat if necessary .Once every thing is clean and dry reassemble .A few terns of th air fuel screw and and idle screw for fine tunning and that kicker will be kickin.
I have built many carbs from Holly and Rockchester for cars and drag racers to lawn mores and weedwhackers, small engines are a walk in the park. Higgs is right on. just a word of caution. If you are not familiar with carbs be very careful taking it apart. get a beach towel or something like that and lay it out on a clean table, those little screws like to role all over the place .As you take the carb apart set the peaces on the cloth in the order you take them of so it is easer to go back together P.S. there is nothing wrong with taking pics as you take it apart for later reference ,also if you have a breakdown of the carb it will be very helpfull if you forget or get stopped for one reason or another. Like if you get a rebuild kit and the gaskets don't match and have to waite another two days for the right ones to come in. Been there done that. Deffinetily use compressed air to clean out every orfis. if you don't have a compressor use a can of air like for your computer.If you need to soak it,you should only have to soak for about an hour.and don't leave any rubber on the parts because the rubber will swell and then you have to replace it. Than wash off with water, use gloves if your hands are tender. blow dry with compressed air. your local parts store should have a gallon can of carb cleaner and it usually has a small metal basket in side to put the parts in. If you want to do it the cheap way get a can of oven cleaner wear gloves if your hands are tender and spray them down, let the foam do the work fore a few min. than wash of with water. blow it dry with the air, remember to blow every orfis they all go some where so you can feel the air as it exits its corresponding hole.repeat if necessary .Once every thing is clean and dry reassemble .A few terns of th air fuel screw and and idle screw for fine tunning and that kicker will be kickin.
Pride is more important than money
in this for me, I hope i'm not going down for a fall. Back in college when the budget was so tight, i bought retreads for $10, replaced brakes, water pumps, head gaskets, valves, piston rings, timing chains, etc., and knew the guy at the junkyard. A digital camera sure would have been nice back in the 80s. Some guys didn't need a car to get dates. I was smart enough to have a service manual with a lot of grease on it. Not that i'm so smart, got scars from every job it seemed, and seized an engine and had a fire after replacing the oil- forgot to tighten the drain plug. That was a girl friend's car. ex-girlfriend. School of hard knocks. But i was desperate then, and now i'm not. Now, it's pride, and i want to feel young again. Of course, if i'm ever going to get my wife out in the boat, maybe i'd better let the pro do it. I'm so over the hill....
in this for me, I hope i'm not going down for a fall. Back in college when the budget was so tight, i bought retreads for $10, replaced brakes, water pumps, head gaskets, valves, piston rings, timing chains, etc., and knew the guy at the junkyard. A digital camera sure would have been nice back in the 80s. Some guys didn't need a car to get dates. I was smart enough to have a service manual with a lot of grease on it. Not that i'm so smart, got scars from every job it seemed, and seized an engine and had a fire after replacing the oil- forgot to tighten the drain plug. That was a girl friend's car. ex-girlfriend. School of hard knocks. But i was desperate then, and now i'm not. Now, it's pride, and i want to feel young again. Of course, if i'm ever going to get my wife out in the boat, maybe i'd better let the pro do it. I'm so over the hill....
had the same problem
I had the same problem. Drained the fuel bowl and a couple grains of sand came out. Sprayed carburetor cleaner into the bowl from the drain screw. Engine started on first pull.
I had the same problem. Drained the fuel bowl and a couple grains of sand came out. Sprayed carburetor cleaner into the bowl from the drain screw. Engine started on first pull.
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