Hope my insurance company doesn't read this! The boats in water (by choice), the harbor is iced in with no access to haulout, the packing leak is in excess of 1 drop/second and increasing, and the packing nut will not budge either way with two grown men on pipe wrenches (well soaked with penetrant.) I'm afraid to get overly aggressive with it and cause the leak to become untenable. This is an uneasy situation and I wouldn't be too concerned if the leak was not worsening. Typically the drip has been less and would slow and stop with the boat sitting for just a short period. Any thoughts from the peanut gallery on what will get me through the winter until I can make my way to the haulout?
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Put a Sealer on it (silicone)...
...that can easily be removed (peeled off) in the spring. *Looks like lousy weather up there, Jerry.
...that can easily be removed (peeled off) in the spring. *Looks like lousy weather up there, Jerry.
Here is an idea......
Wrap a bead of DucSeal (Plumbing item for sealing sinks to countertops) around the shaft. If you can't find DucSeal use some modeling clay. Then wrap the entire area with heat-shrink tape. This is tape that will shrink when heat is applied. Heat shrink tubing is very common but a similar product is available as a tape. Shrink the tape to hold everything in place with a heat gun or a strong hair drier. I've never needed to try this solution, but it seems to me that it would work well. If you try it please let us know.
Wrap a bead of DucSeal (Plumbing item for sealing sinks to countertops) around the shaft. If you can't find DucSeal use some modeling clay. Then wrap the entire area with heat-shrink tape. This is tape that will shrink when heat is applied. Heat shrink tubing is very common but a similar product is available as a tape. Shrink the tape to hold everything in place with a heat gun or a strong hair drier. I've never needed to try this solution, but it seems to me that it would work well. If you try it please let us know.
Don't fight the threads
People try too hard to unseal the smaller lock nut, which can be difficult because the wrench keeps slipping. Better to unseal the larger nut by turning it to starboard. Once it's loose one or two flats (with negligent increase in the drip), you can turn the smaller nut down several turns to give you more room to tighten the big one. If you can turn the big one looser and quickly, you can get one layer of flax in there to actually fix the problem without hauling. Measure it carefully on the exposed shaft before doing anything, then be ready to deploy it.
People try too hard to unseal the smaller lock nut, which can be difficult because the wrench keeps slipping. Better to unseal the larger nut by turning it to starboard. Once it's loose one or two flats (with negligent increase in the drip), you can turn the smaller nut down several turns to give you more room to tighten the big one. If you can turn the big one looser and quickly, you can get one layer of flax in there to actually fix the problem without hauling. Measure it carefully on the exposed shaft before doing anything, then be ready to deploy it.
Another idea
With water on the inside of the shaft, corrosion in between, and air on the outside of the nut, you should be able to get heat to the nut while the shaft will stay cold, and use themral expansion to your advtange (nut gets bigger, shaft doesnt, breaks the corrosion bond) The only issue is..I don't know how hot the packing can get without failing. So this may not be a good idea!!
With water on the inside of the shaft, corrosion in between, and air on the outside of the nut, you should be able to get heat to the nut while the shaft will stay cold, and use themral expansion to your advtange (nut gets bigger, shaft doesnt, breaks the corrosion bond) The only issue is..I don't know how hot the packing can get without failing. So this may not be a good idea!!
Another Idea!
I bought "Atomic Tape" at the Newport Boat Show that can be used as a stop-gap in an emergency. All temperature safe. The tape stretches (by you) as it is applied and contracts as it is released and sticks to itself to form a water-tight hold on anything, even underwater. Try that instead by wrapping the whole stuffing box with it.
I bought "Atomic Tape" at the Newport Boat Show that can be used as a stop-gap in an emergency. All temperature safe. The tape stretches (by you) as it is applied and contracts as it is released and sticks to itself to form a water-tight hold on anything, even underwater. Try that instead by wrapping the whole stuffing box with it.
Using Atomic Tape is an excellent idea
but may not be readily available. Try some plastic shrink wrap or plumbers putty but whatever you do make sure you have an operational bilge pump and a reliable power supply.
but may not be readily available. Try some plastic shrink wrap or plumbers putty but whatever you do make sure you have an operational bilge pump and a reliable power supply.
Hi Jerry, pipe wrenches do not work...
at least on our boat's stuffing box they did not, nor did adjustable wrenches, etc. When I finally purchased the right wrenches, the lock nut broke right loose. Here is what I did: 1. Purchased two service wrenches of the correct size; ours was 2-1/8th and 2-1/4 inch as I recall. 2. Purchased a one foot piece of one inch SS pipe for each wrench to give me additional leverage. I had to flatten one end of the pipe some so it would slide onto the service wrench handle. On the first try I was amazed at how easy the lock nut broke loose, considering how much I struggled using the other wrenches that did not work. If the box still has stuffing material in good condition, hand tightening the box nut should stop the drip. On our box it did. Terry
at least on our boat's stuffing box they did not, nor did adjustable wrenches, etc. When I finally purchased the right wrenches, the lock nut broke right loose. Here is what I did: 1. Purchased two service wrenches of the correct size; ours was 2-1/8th and 2-1/4 inch as I recall. 2. Purchased a one foot piece of one inch SS pipe for each wrench to give me additional leverage. I had to flatten one end of the pipe some so it would slide onto the service wrench handle. On the first try I was amazed at how easy the lock nut broke loose, considering how much I struggled using the other wrenches that did not work. If the box still has stuffing material in good condition, hand tightening the box nut should stop the drip. On our box it did. Terry
Hi Jerry, pipe wrenches do not work...
at least on our boat's stuffing box they did not, nor did adjustable wrenches, etc. When I finally purchased the right wrenches, the lock nut broke right loose. Here is what I did: 1. Purchased two service wrenches of the correct size; ours was 2-1/8th and 2-1/4 inch as I recall. 2. Purchased a one foot piece of one inch SS pipe for each wrench to give me additional leverage. I had to flatten one end of the pipe some so it would slide onto the service wrench handle. On the first try I was amazed at how easy the lock nut broke loose, considering how much I struggled using the other wrenches that did not work. If the box still has stuffing material in good condition, hand tightening the box nut should stop the drip. On our box it did. Terry
at least on our boat's stuffing box they did not, nor did adjustable wrenches, etc. When I finally purchased the right wrenches, the lock nut broke right loose. Here is what I did: 1. Purchased two service wrenches of the correct size; ours was 2-1/8th and 2-1/4 inch as I recall. 2. Purchased a one foot piece of one inch SS pipe for each wrench to give me additional leverage. I had to flatten one end of the pipe some so it would slide onto the service wrench handle. On the first try I was amazed at how easy the lock nut broke loose, considering how much I struggled using the other wrenches that did not work. If the box still has stuffing material in good condition, hand tightening the box nut should stop the drip. On our box it did. Terry
Hi Jerry, pipe wrenches do not work...
at least on our boat's stuffing box they did not, nor did adjustable wrenches, etc. When I finally purchased the right wrenches, the lock nut broke right loose. Here is what I did: 1. Purchased two service wrenches of the correct size; ours was 2-1/8th and 2-1/4 inch as I recall. 2. Purchased a one foot piece of one inch SS pipe for each wrench to give me additional leverage. I had to flatten one end of the pipe some so it would slide onto the service wrench handle. On the first try I was amazed at how easy the lock nut broke loose, considering how much I struggled using the other wrenches that did not work. If the box still has stuffing material in good condition, hand tightening the box nut should stop the drip. On our box it did. Terry
at least on our boat's stuffing box they did not, nor did adjustable wrenches, etc. When I finally purchased the right wrenches, the lock nut broke right loose. Here is what I did: 1. Purchased two service wrenches of the correct size; ours was 2-1/8th and 2-1/4 inch as I recall. 2. Purchased a one foot piece of one inch SS pipe for each wrench to give me additional leverage. I had to flatten one end of the pipe some so it would slide onto the service wrench handle. On the first try I was amazed at how easy the lock nut broke loose, considering how much I struggled using the other wrenches that did not work. If the box still has stuffing material in good condition, hand tightening the box nut should stop the drip. On our box it did. Terry
Hi Jerry, pipe wrenches do not work...
at least on our boat's stuffing box they did not, nor did adjustable wrenches, etc. When I finally purchased the right wrenches, the lock nut broke right loose. Here is what I did: 1. Purchased two service wrenches of the correct size; ours was 2-1/8th and 2-1/4 inch as I recall. 2. Purchased a one foot piece of one inch SS pipe for each wrench to give me additional leverage. I had to flatten one end of the pipe some so it would slide onto the service wrench handle. On the first try I was amazed at how easy the lock nut broke loose, considering how much I struggled using the other wrenches that did not work. If the box still has stuffing material in good condition, hand tightening the box nut should stop the drip. On our box it did. Terry
at least on our boat's stuffing box they did not, nor did adjustable wrenches, etc. When I finally purchased the right wrenches, the lock nut broke right loose. Here is what I did: 1. Purchased two service wrenches of the correct size; ours was 2-1/8th and 2-1/4 inch as I recall. 2. Purchased a one foot piece of one inch SS pipe for each wrench to give me additional leverage. I had to flatten one end of the pipe some so it would slide onto the service wrench handle. On the first try I was amazed at how easy the lock nut broke loose, considering how much I struggled using the other wrenches that did not work. If the box still has stuffing material in good condition, hand tightening the box nut should stop the drip. On our box it did. Terry
Caulking string
Old wooden boats were caulked between the planks with cotton string. Would it be possible to fit this between the packing nuts and the shaft? It can be tapped into the gap with a drift and when the cotton gets wet it swells up. Leave the tail free so it can be removed before engaging the drive.
Old wooden boats were caulked between the planks with cotton string. Would it be possible to fit this between the packing nuts and the shaft? It can be tapped into the gap with a drift and when the cotton gets wet it swells up. Leave the tail free so it can be removed before engaging the drive.
Caulking string
Old wooden boats were caulked between the planks with cotton string. Would it be possible to fit this between the packing nuts and the shaft? It can be tapped into the gap with a drift and when the cotton gets wet it swells up. Leave the tail free so it can be removed before engaging the drive.
Old wooden boats were caulked between the planks with cotton string. Would it be possible to fit this between the packing nuts and the shaft? It can be tapped into the gap with a drift and when the cotton gets wet it swells up. Leave the tail free so it can be removed before engaging the drive.
Caulking string
Old wooden boats were caulked between the planks with cotton string. Would it be possible to fit this between the packing nuts and the shaft? It can be tapped into the gap with a drift and when the cotton gets wet it swells up. Leave the tail free so it can be removed before engaging the drive.
Old wooden boats were caulked between the planks with cotton string. Would it be possible to fit this between the packing nuts and the shaft? It can be tapped into the gap with a drift and when the cotton gets wet it swells up. Leave the tail free so it can be removed before engaging the drive.
Caulking string
Old wooden boats were caulked between the planks with cotton string. Would it be possible to fit this between the packing nuts and the shaft? It can be tapped into the gap with a drift and when the cotton gets wet it swells up. Leave the tail free so it can be removed before engaging the drive.
Old wooden boats were caulked between the planks with cotton string. Would it be possible to fit this between the packing nuts and the shaft? It can be tapped into the gap with a drift and when the cotton gets wet it swells up. Leave the tail free so it can be removed before engaging the drive.
You guys are thinking outside the (stuffing) box!
Lots of great feedback here, thanks very much. I'm going to try the low impact approach first to avoid any large issues. I'll try the shrink tape first since I have access to the good Raychem "nuclear" brand. I saw the Atomic Tape in Newport as well but thought, why would I ever need that (dooh)? Next will be the putty or even epoxy putty. The last thing I want to do now is start hauling on it with wrenches, cheaters and heat with no place go but down (the thought makes me pucker)! As for the insurance company, I have no "seasonal" limitations just geographical. Keep the ideas comming, sailors can be the most ingenious people! I'll report back soon.
Lots of great feedback here, thanks very much. I'm going to try the low impact approach first to avoid any large issues. I'll try the shrink tape first since I have access to the good Raychem "nuclear" brand. I saw the Atomic Tape in Newport as well but thought, why would I ever need that (dooh)? Next will be the putty or even epoxy putty. The last thing I want to do now is start hauling on it with wrenches, cheaters and heat with no place go but down (the thought makes me pucker)! As for the insurance company, I have no "seasonal" limitations just geographical. Keep the ideas comming, sailors can be the most ingenious people! I'll report back soon.
You guys are thinking outside the (stuffing) box!
Lots of great feedback here, thanks very much. I'm going to try the low impact approach first to avoid any large issues. I'll try the shrink tape first since I have access to the good Raychem "nuclear" brand. I saw the Atomic Tape in Newport as well but thought, why would I ever need that (dooh)? Next will be the putty or even epoxy putty. The last thing I want to do now is start hauling on it with wrenches, cheaters and heat with no place go but down (the thought makes me pucker)! As for the insurance company, I have no "seasonal" limitations just geographical. Keep the ideas comming, sailors can be the most ingenious people! I'll report back soon.
Lots of great feedback here, thanks very much. I'm going to try the low impact approach first to avoid any large issues. I'll try the shrink tape first since I have access to the good Raychem "nuclear" brand. I saw the Atomic Tape in Newport as well but thought, why would I ever need that (dooh)? Next will be the putty or even epoxy putty. The last thing I want to do now is start hauling on it with wrenches, cheaters and heat with no place go but down (the thought makes me pucker)! As for the insurance company, I have no "seasonal" limitations just geographical. Keep the ideas comming, sailors can be the most ingenious people! I'll report back soon.
You guys are thinking outside the (stuffing) box!
Lots of great feedback here, thanks very much. I'm going to try the low impact approach first to avoid any large issues. I'll try the shrink tape first since I have access to the good Raychem "nuclear" brand. I saw the Atomic Tape in Newport as well but thought, why would I ever need that (dooh)? Next will be the putty or even epoxy putty. The last thing I want to do now is start hauling on it with wrenches, cheaters and heat with no place go but down (the thought makes me pucker)! As for the insurance company, I have no "seasonal" limitations just geographical. Keep the ideas comming, sailors can be the most ingenious people! I'll report back soon.
Lots of great feedback here, thanks very much. I'm going to try the low impact approach first to avoid any large issues. I'll try the shrink tape first since I have access to the good Raychem "nuclear" brand. I saw the Atomic Tape in Newport as well but thought, why would I ever need that (dooh)? Next will be the putty or even epoxy putty. The last thing I want to do now is start hauling on it with wrenches, cheaters and heat with no place go but down (the thought makes me pucker)! As for the insurance company, I have no "seasonal" limitations just geographical. Keep the ideas comming, sailors can be the most ingenious people! I'll report back soon.
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