slow leak

[bmorr]

In contrast of our policy to keep people in and water out of our water ballast 26 Hunter, we have been finding water in the bilge. It was small enough I thought it was from rain, but yesterday (we have had no rain) after a nice sail my wife noticed water in the bottom of a cabinet and when I checked the bilge under the bed more water. Since the only holes in the haul are the sensor for the depth finder and the paddle wheel for speed I am assuming it is from one of those areas. After cleaning up the water I pulled the paddle wheel and replaced it with the plug. I couldn't see a leak but am worried. Have any of you had similar problems?
If the plug doesn't solve the problem, any experience out there on reseating the through halls? Any ideas on other leak sources? Any sharing of experience would be appreciated.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

possible culprits can be in the transom area. Look with flashlight in hand and of course folks standing in the cockpit at:

Lower rudder gudgeon or lower rudder attachment

Hull to deck at bottom of transom.

Feel with your hand. Also look at the rear berth support under the berth to see if there is any flow of water coming from the rear. Please report what you find.

 

[bmorr]

Thanks Dave, will report back

 

[John23883]

Water entry

See the entry in "water in bilge while heeling" in the smaller boats forum for my solution.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

John;

More information is needed which is why I asked the questions. I sold too many and fixed many over the years.

 

[bmorr]

Dave, interesting- setting in the slip for 8 days and still dry, mild sail, little heal- no water, week later still dry, wild ride and upon return found water in the bilge. I did crawl around with a flash light and checked the areas you suggested and they seemed dry. I am comfortable that the Tortuga is not heading to the bottom while in the slip, but would like to solve this. Any help you can give is appreciated.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Both the hull to deck joint and bottom rudder connection are out of the water during no sailing and not enough people on board. Reporting water under the bed I am assuming you are referring to the rear berth. That would be the first place to look but sitting at the dock, you will need 3 to 4 folks in the rear of the cockpit to duplicate the rear of the boat under water when the boat is sailing and or under motor. Water will migrate under the rear berth and the galley.

Next, check forward the area between the cabin floor and the top of the water ballast tank by looking thru the rear berth floor lid. If dry, that is not an issue. The next area is the gasket under the large washer with the air vent bailer to see if water is coming thru there when under way or put those folks standing over it where the last step is. Air vent can be rectified by enlargening the drain bail plug by turning it. If gasket is shot, replace it with neophrene but make darn sure when you take off the wing nut to get the large washer off, you could loose that threaded rod if not careful.

hopes this helps you.

 

[cephius (Dave)]

The most common cause of this is the vent plug on the water ballast fill. Make sure you have seated this plug. (under wood step)

 

[Dave O.]

leak

I just had the very same problem on my 260. I would only get water in the bilge after sailing or motoring. It turns out the culprit was the compression post. The compression post fits into a metal fitting (under the cover of the raised area on the floor) which is also hollow all the way down to the water so the centerboard line can exit the boat. This fitting originally had 3m 5200 but had since degraded. When the boat moved through the water, water is forced up the hole and if the joint was not watertight water would spill out going under the floor and eventually draining to the bilge under the aft berth.My fix was I put 3m 5200 liberally on the area, let dry and then made a flexible joint cover for the area. I cut a piece of bicycle tube into a strip, wrapped the strip of tube around the joint, sealed the overlapping ends with the adhesive you get in a bicycle repair kit then put a hose clamp on the bottom and top of the tube/flexible joint so to straddle the compression post-hull fitting joint. Then sealed the flexible joint with 5200 also just to be sure. That way if the 5200 inside the original joint comes compromised again, which it will over time, the outer flexible joint will contain the water. When I did this fix the bilge is always dry once again. Happy times

Dave

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Dave;

You are correct but based on the info given, the first is to look at the transom, then compression post and other. Sometimes when too much information is given, many will not divulge it properly or have a hard time with it. I find my approach easier.

As for the compression post, the compression post plate rests on top of the fiberglass housing and 5200 sealant is used. The centerboard housing plate is held up in place by the big bolt seen. On the 26 and intial 260's, there were small holes in the base of the compression post pipe and #10 bolts were used to keep the upper pipe from twisting. The reason the later 260's did not have those holes, it was not needed.

If the seal is broken between the top of the fiberglass CB housing and the steel plate, simply cut some of the sealant away where the leak is and use your finger to put more 5200 in pressing it in and that too care of that problem. As for the bolt, I put a little 5200 around the edges of the bolt and plate to keep water from coming in only when loaded with folks, under sail or motoring. Sitting at the dock, water never came in thru there.
As for the two holes in the compression post, insert two #10 bolts with caulking and that takes care of that. Like I said, I know these boats too well and encountered quite a bit as a dealer and for other reasons as well.

dave condon