Slipping topping lift woes...

[Bill Welsch]

HiApologize if there have been recent posts on this subject--have been off line for quite a while but its great to be back!The line which controls my topping lift on our '98 H240 slips terribly----at the teeth on the forward end of the boom. I suspect its because the line which came from the factory is too small which results in the slippage... Any experience out there with fixing this??? And, if my diagnosis is correct, why would the Hunter folks use the wrong size line? (Or maybe it was the local dealer who sold me the boat?)Thanks for the helpBill WelschS/V RenewalSt Louis, MO

 

[Richard Gottlieb]

Chuck the topping lift altogether . . .

and buy a boomkicker boom support. I did the same for my H270 and never regretted it. The boomkicker obviates the need for a topping lift because it provides constant support for the boom and is tensioned by use of the boom vang. the cost is relatively minimal and I found it easy to install and they have no moving parts. By losing the topping lift, you also reduce the chance of chafing the leech of the main sail (this is particularly important for Hunter because of the large amount of roach in the sail) and make the process of reefing and sail lowering that much easier.

 

[Tom M.]

I had the same problem...

when we owned our 240. Went around and around with the mast manufacturer trying different size jam cleat levers, sheeve sizes etc. they even sent me new lines. The manufacturer tried and I have no problem with their attempts at a solution. We ultimately traded up to a 260 before the problem was ever solved. I used to use a pair of small vice-grips to hold the line when needed and tied knots in the other lines. My solution was going to be to install cam cleats below the boom on the mast to completely avoid the in-boom cleats which are worthless in my opinion. That would be my suggestion.Tom M.

 

[Ron]

A Fixed Line

If you don't want to pop for a Boomkicker - which seems to work well from all reports, I suggest a simple line tied at the mast head, and brought down to the very back of the boom. You can tie two small clips at the end of the line - one higher up than the other. These clips are then snapped to a small loop of line at the end of the boom. The shortest clip is used for the "up" position when you want the boom out of the way and the sail is down. The longer clip is used when you are sailing and gives you a loose topping lift, but it is always at the end of the boom. May seem a bit "jerry-rigged",but it has worked on two different boats over 25 years and never slips or fails. Surely beats messing with a slipping line!

 

[Rick Webb]

Add a Cam Cleat to the Boom

I put a cam cleat on the end of the boom and use that to adjust the topping lift. It makes it easier to remove the boom for trailering as well.

 

[Keith Smoot]

Get a BoomKicker

I removed the factory topping lift from my '87 H-23 and installed the fiberglass BoomKicker. Cost is $130 plus shipping. Easy installation, fits into the luff groove and screws under the boom. Use the topping lift hardware for a second reef. (My wife likes a flat boat). Had to send the main to a sailmaker for about $100 worth of work to put the reefing points in the main. Net result: no topping lift worries, second reefing point, flatter boat, happier wife. Life is good.Keith and WandaS/V H-23, Gwaihir