sliding gooseneck

[katana750]

Thanks to everybody for all the help with my electrical questions. Now I have one about a sliding goose-neck. I went to Dwyer and have a choice of between 1/2" and 5/8 or 4100,4101. I am not quite sure how to measure my mast or how tight the goose-neck should be. I have measured the inside slide and came up with 3/4" so I think 5/8 is the answer. It looks like I have a standard 93 s mast. (3x4) Just thought I would see if somebody else has bought these sliders before and what size worked for them.

https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=17&familyName=Goosenecks

Thanks

Dave

 

[finding41]

I have either 4100 or 4101 on my boat. Not sure of the size. Mine is held to the mast by two worm clamps. Someone wasn't thinking when they installed it... I am going to get a stopper for under it.
I plan a down haul installation this spring to actualy use it properly.

 

[oreana123]

If you care about mainsail shaping, the sliding gooseneck will avoid the wrinkle along the foot of the main as you tension the luff, that a normal cunningham setup would cause.

I use a sliding gooseneck stopper to keep the gooseneck in the mast slot when the main halyard is loosened. I also have a set of holes that cross the mast slot for a quick release pin. After losing both bits, I now use 1/16 inch SS wire to tether the slider stoppers.

As I posted before, and when you have a sliding gooseneck, it is possible to square off the head of the mainsail and thereby gain some room along the luff of the mainsail. Having that room allows you to position the main up and down the mast, moving the mainsails center of pressure, or getting the boom out of the cockpit when you so desire.

I found that the tackle I used for my cunningham before these mods, works perfectly to now tension the sliding gooseneck, which has a ring welded on its bottom surface.

 

[katana750]

If you care about mainsail shaping, the sliding gooseneck will avoid the wrinkle along the foot of the main as you tension the luff, that a normal cunningham setup would cause.

I use a sliding gooseneck stopper to keep the gooseneck in the mast slot when the main halyard is loosened. I also have a set of holes that cross the mast slot for a quick release pin. After losing both bits, I now use 1/16 inch SS wire to tether the slider stoppers.

As I posted before, and when you have a sliding gooseneck, it is possible to square off the head of the mainsail and thereby gain some room along the luff of the mainsail. Having that room allows you to position the main up and down the mast, moving the mainsails center of pressure, or getting the boom out of the cockpit when you so desire.

I found that the tackle I used for my cunningham before these mods, works perfectly to now tension the sliding gooseneck, which has a ring welded on its bottom surface.

Thanks....I plan to square off the main sail if a have to, hopefully i might just have enough room in the mast that I don't have to. I was just hoping somebody had already bought a sliding gooseneck from dwyer and I could copy. I'll give them a call next week and see what they suggest. I can see three from their list that I have to choose from

Dave

 

[katana750]

I have either 4100 or 4101 on my boat. Not sure of the size. Mine is held to the mast by two worm clamps. Someone wasn't thinking when they installed it... I am going to get a stopper for under it.
I plan a down haul installation this spring to actualy use it properly.

Hi
How is your gooseneck connected to the boom? Right now I have an aluminum dowel that is through bolted into the boom. The other end of the dowel connects to the mast with a horse shoe and pin. I noticed the sliding gooseneck has a bolt the somehow connects to the boom. The problem I see is that my end cap has a pretty large elongated hole in it (so the boom can pivot up and down i guess) and it will probably be much larger than the bolt on the gooseneck. I could put a washer on the bolt but then the boom would slide up and down on the bolt instead of pivot. I doubt the bolt would have a large enough diameter to through bolt it like current aluminum dowel/pin. My boom doesn't mesh with dwyers boom sizes so I just can't buy a new end cap.

Thanks

Dave

 

[finding41]

Hey Dave.
I'm not sure how mine connects to the boom. (I mean in the boom.) I'm almost sure there is a slot that allows the boom to pivot up and down. On the 4100-4101 there is a pin that connects what would be two pieces together. I have a bolt. Don't now why...
I will check how it's rigged tomorrow and post pictures. I'll get measurements too.

 

[katana750]

Hey Dave.
I'm not sure how mine connects to the boom. (I mean in the boom.) I'm almost sure there is a slot that allows the boom to pivot up and down. On the 4100-4101 there is a pin that connects what would be two pieces together. I have a bolt. Don't now why...
I will check how it's rigged tomorrow and post pictures. I'll get measurements too.

That would be great. I really appreciate it.

Dave

 

[finding41]

Here we go. Yes my goose neck pivots inside the boom on a bolt. This allows up and down movement. (For lowering the mast part way while going under bridges. etc.)
Here are the pictures.
4-5= You will see the clams holding the sliding thing in place. The loop is on the bottom when set up. The white tape was a quick fix while racing because the Genoa sheet kept getting caught by the tail end of the worm clamps on tacks...
1-2= The pivot on the tack end of the boom.
3= boom length

 

[katana750]

Here we go. Yes my goose neck pivots inside the boom on a bolt. This allows up and down movement. (For lowering the mast part way while going under bridges. etc.)
Here are the pictures.
4-5= You will see the clams holding the sliding thing in place. The loop is on the bottom when set up. The white tape was a quick fix while racing because the Genoa sheet kept getting caught by the tail end of the worm clamps on tacks...
1-2= The pivot on the tack end of the boom.
3= boom length

Thanks.....those pictures are perfect. I see what I have to do know. I use my existing gooseneck pivot, and ditch the one that comes with the gooseneck so much easier to see that with your pictures. I now see I pretty much the same set up as you. I wasn't sure if what I had was standard or not. When I was looking at slidding goose neck pictures I couldn't tell if I could get it to mesh with what I have.

Thanks again for the help

Dave