Sliding Entry Hatch Repair/Replacement

[JaySauls]

Anyone have any links/contacts for replacing/repairing entry hatches? The one on my 1970 24' Magregor is during to more and more sawdust everytime I touch it. I searched through the forums (and around the web) but couldn't find any info. I'd be happy just replacing it with a sliding fiberglass hatch if I could find one.

If all else fails I might just attempt to build one, though carpentry is far from being one of my talents.

 

[topcat0399]

Anyone have any links/contacts for replacing/repairing entry hatches? The one on my 1970 24' Magregor is during to more and more sawdust everytime I touch it. I searched through the forums (and around the web) but couldn't find any info. I'd be happy just replacing it with a sliding fiberglass hatch if I could find one.

If all else fails I might just attempt to build one, though carpentry is far from being one of my talents.

Are you talking about the companion way triangle shape entry hatch?
The sliding hatch above the companion way?
The front deck v-berth hatch lid?
Lazerette hatch lid?

I'm thinking you are talking about the companion way hatch - maybe.
The original was likely a triangle shaped fiberglass piece.

Fabricating a series of slats to fit in there takes no special carpentry skills at all. Measure cut fit sand finish. Lots of different ways to do it.

Do you happen to have a photo of what you have now?

 

[JaySauls]

I'm talking about the hatch over the cabin that slides forward. The one I have is made of wood and is absolutely falling apart. There is a triangle-ish entry door that I can easily replace. But the sliding hatch is another story. Here's a picture of the cockpit showing the entrance hatch/door

 

[topcat0399]

I'm talking about the hatch over the cabin that slides forward. The one I have is made of wood and is absolutely falling apart. There is a triangle-ish entry door that I can easily replace. But the sliding hatch is another story. Here's a picture of the cockpit showing the entrance hatch/door

Finding a replacement stock item could take forever and be frustrating.
Having one custom built = $$$$$
You could make one out of fiberglass - slight learning curve but gets easier with practice.

If I were you: I would take that thing apart piece by piece and trace out the individual parts on new lumber - like white oak perhaps - glue and screw it and use finish of your choice.

It doesn't need to be living room perfect. You can do it!

 

[JaySauls]

Thanks, that's kind of what I thought I'd do. I definitely can't make it any worse!

 

[vizwhiz]

Just remember to take pictures as you go! (Applause is always encouraging...)

 

[ChockFullOnuts222]

JaySauls, I just sent you a PM.

 

[centerline]

with what you are working with, I would suggest that to minimize the work involved, that you remove it and clean it up, tighten any loose fastenings, and sand it very lightly.
then mix up some slow set epoxy resin and paint it.... keep tending to it for a couple of hours as the resin will soak in and you need to keep applying it as it does. working with rubber gloves on makes this task almost effortless.
it will harden in about 6 hrs and cure out in a week, but you will end up with a hard, sealed, shiney piece of wood that will probably last quite a few more years....

its about the same as will need to be done to a new one if you build it, if you want it to last.... but using the epoxy rather than a spar varnish, because it will harden up the soft rotted areas and help it all adhere together making it solid again, whereas a spar varnish will only protect wood from becoming soft and rotted.
But it would need to be painted or varnished to keep the uv rays from getting to it....

 

[JaySauls]

Thanks, I'll give that a try.

with what you are working with, I would suggest that to minimize the work involved, that you remove it and clean it up, tighten any loose fastenings, and sand it very lightly.
then mix up some slow set epoxy resin and paint it.... keep tending to it for a couple of hours as the resin will soak in and you need to keep applying it as it does. working with rubber gloves on makes this task almost effortless.
it will harden in about 6 hrs and cure out in a week, but you will end up with a hard, sealed, shiney piece of wood that will probably last quite a few more years....

its about the same as will need to be done to a new one if you build it, if you want it to last.... but using the epoxy rather than a spar varnish, because it will harden up the soft rotted areas and help it all adhere together making it solid again, whereas a spar varnish will only protect wood from becoming soft and rotted.
But it would need to be painted or varnished to keep the uv rays from getting to it....