Sinking?

[capta]

Once again it has come to my attention that a vessel was lost due to an influx of water and insufficient pumping capability.
In this case I'm writing about the Bounty, (I just read; http://edition.cnn.com/interactive/2013/03/us/bounty/?hpt=hp_c3) but just a few months ago a very good friend had his boat sink out from under him with both engines running full bore, heading for shallow water to beach the boat, almost costing him his life.
Bounty had two main engines and two 20 kw generators from what I understand. That's possibly four diesel engines running at full capacity and just exactly what is keeping those engines cool? Water!
If you ever find yourself in this situation, close the seacock (s) and take the intake hose (s) off the thru hull and drop it (them) in the bilge! There should be a sea strainer to catch debris which is very easy and quick to clean, unless you have sea chests, in which case a cloth or colander or even your fingers will minimize the clogging.
I'm not saying that in the case of the Bounty that it would have made a difference, but they may have had a better chance with less water in the engine room, and engines and generators running. It definitely would have made a difference (all the difference) in my friend's case.
On some boats I have even Y-ed the intake and carried enough hose to reach anywhere aboard.
Throwing a sail over a hole in the hull can give you enough time to get a mattress inside with something (a door, the table whatever) to push against the hole from the inside, further slowing the influx of water. Then, when the weather abates (if that's a problem) maybe you can arrange a more permanent solution and sail yourself back to safety.
Some friends of mine were holed by a log a thousand miles SW of Hawaii and after doing the above, sailed safely back to Honolulu, certainly not without problems, but again they lived AND saved the boat.
So in those unwanted moments of catastrophe, do not lose your head and your boat; think. There may be a simple, easy, if temporary, solution to your immediate problem.

 

[JohnS]

My Atomic 4's water pump doesn't move a hell of a lot of water, but yeah, I guess every little bit helps. I think a manual bilge pump would be faster, though.

 

[PaulK]

Hooking up an electric pump to a diesel generator or ship's power will move a LOT more water than the cooling system of the diesel. Besides the risk of clogs, there's also the risk of perhaps moving enough water out of the bilge at some point that the intake goes dry - and your diesel overheats and grinds to a halt while you're on deck trying to frother a sail into a leaky garboard or stove plank. John S's suggestion to carry extra pumps is a good one.

 

[Skipper]

Also:
Remove the intake hose from the fresh water tank top, drop it into the bilge, open the faucets. Or directly from the pump intake.
Remove the intake from the macerator, engage.
Turn on the sump pump.
Yes, the engine intake.
Generator intake as well, if you have one.
Electric Bilge pumps, of course.
Ship's manual pump, which every sailboat should have.
Washdown pump - same process, if you have one.
Head intake, especially if it's electric. But if not and you have the crew, set them up pumping by hand. This will only work if you have Y-valve. Many West Coast boats don't, and if the macerator is discon, then skip this.
Portable hand pump, which everyone should have.

There are many pumps on a sailboat. If you're taking lots of water, let 'em run.

 

[anchorclanker]

Just to clarify, engine "water" intake, not air intake. Water sucked into the engine will stop it dead. I'm sure everyone would know better, but i thought it was a good idea to clarify, just in case

There are a lot of good ideas suggested here that could be utilized and set up before hand with proper planning. Wye's and ball valves could be installed, and pick ups put in place, ready and operational, hopefully never to be needed. I doubt it would have saved the bounty, though we'll never know. But its certainly some food for thought.

It is true though, too, that an engine wont run very long if the coolant stops flowing.

 

[centerline]

as anchorclanker has said, PROPER PLANNING.... it will get you farther to being completely self sufficient and staying as safe as possible than any other thing you can do.
part of that is knowing your boat and the possible and most probable causes of your boat filling with water and what to do if it starts happening. (as well as other scenarios that could turn into disaster)
if you are equipped with this knowledge, you will more than likely have the tools and equipment readily at hand to prevent the problem from turning into a life threatening emergency... or worse.

 

[capta]

If you are going to lose your engine(s) anyway as the water rises, what could it hurt to try to save the vessel with the raw water pump? If you have the Y-valve system w/ a hose then I assume (and we all know that one) there would be a proper strainer on the suction end?
On a larger vessel, with a proper engine room (water resistant if not watertight) it should be possible to keep the water level, in the engine room at least, at a manageable level, while repairing pumps or whatever, though in the end it may not be enough. But you've gotta try, don't you?
In one hurricane in the SoPac we bailed a 1909 wooden 65' ketch with buckets for 5 hours, in addition to what pumps were functioning. After capsizing a total of three times, the batteries had lost most of their water or had filled w/ sea water and without the engine to power the systems, I doubt we would have survived.
Again, please understand that in the case of the Bounty, I am NOT saying it would have made any difference, but I have saved boats with this system, so I thought I'd throw it out there.