I followed everyone's advice and found that it was a gate valve( the only one left on the boat)It continually turned in either direction so we assumed that the stem was broken. We dismantled it and routed the pipe to the bilge temporarily. My question is this....do we have to pull the boat to change this valve or is this something we can do while in the water?
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
D
Dennis
Got Guts?
You could get a cork, dive under the boat, and plug the hole. Then hope it holds and change the valve.
You could get a cork, dive under the boat, and plug the hole. Then hope it holds and change the valve.
D
David Foster
Safer to leave the pipe on the valve.
With the pipe in the bilge, a failure of the (broken) valve means a flooded boat. (Until you replace the valve.) With the sink drain fastened to the valve and the drain if the sink with a couple of hose clamps, both the valve and the pipe must fail to cause flooding. I think you will want to haul the boat to do the right job replacing the valve - but others have more expertise than me on that issue. David Lady Lillie
With the pipe in the bilge, a failure of the (broken) valve means a flooded boat. (Until you replace the valve.) With the sink drain fastened to the valve and the drain if the sink with a couple of hose clamps, both the valve and the pipe must fail to cause flooding. I think you will want to haul the boat to do the right job replacing the valve - but others have more expertise than me on that issue. David Lady Lillie
I'd pull it.
Robin: I'd pull the boat. Don't know if you just had her painted or not but you might as well if it been over a year. Be sure to lubricate all of the seacock when you are out of the water too. If you try to do it in the water and you have bad threads, corrosion etc. you will need to pull it anyway. Besides a Hunter is a terrible thing to loose! Check around, its usually about $5/ft for the pull and the splash with a power wash. Did the surveyor catch this on the survey? If not call him and ask him why he did not point it out. You could ask him if he wants to contribute to the pull.
Robin: I'd pull the boat. Don't know if you just had her painted or not but you might as well if it been over a year. Be sure to lubricate all of the seacock when you are out of the water too. If you try to do it in the water and you have bad threads, corrosion etc. you will need to pull it anyway. Besides a Hunter is a terrible thing to loose! Check around, its usually about $5/ft for the pull and the splash with a power wash. Did the surveyor catch this on the survey? If not call him and ask him why he did not point it out. You could ask him if he wants to contribute to the pull.
R
Robin
Thanks
We Agree.......we are going to put another pipe on the valve temporarily and have the boat pulled in a month or so as we have to do some other things that our surveyor mentioned. We haven't received the written survey yet as we just purchased the boat but were very happy with the surveyor we had. Apparently he is a brokers nightmare because he is so picky. When we get it that will be the first thing we look for. Thanks Again
We Agree.......we are going to put another pipe on the valve temporarily and have the boat pulled in a month or so as we have to do some other things that our surveyor mentioned. We haven't received the written survey yet as we just purchased the boat but were very happy with the surveyor we had. Apparently he is a brokers nightmare because he is so picky. When we get it that will be the first thing we look for. Thanks Again
A
Alan
If you need H'31 help
Robin: If you need help with your H'31, get ahold of my friend Larry Morrow. He has a H'31 in your harbor and is quite a swell fellow. s/v two morrows 1985 H31 Hull# 450 Herrington Harbour South K-8
Robin: If you need help with your H'31, get ahold of my friend Larry Morrow. He has a H'31 in your harbor and is quite a swell fellow. s/v two morrows 1985 H31 Hull# 450 Herrington Harbour South K-8
L
Les Andersen
Water-water everywhere
Robin, If you can locate a spare section of canvas about 3 feet square. Tie lines to the corners and work the canvas down the hull and over the thru hole. Hold it in place and then remove the valve. The canvas will block the flow of water into the boat while you replace the valve. It will still allow some water to enter but the amount will be seriously reduced. Les s/v Mutual Fun
Robin, If you can locate a spare section of canvas about 3 feet square. Tie lines to the corners and work the canvas down the hull and over the thru hole. Hold it in place and then remove the valve. The canvas will block the flow of water into the boat while you replace the valve. It will still allow some water to enter but the amount will be seriously reduced. Les s/v Mutual Fun
D
Don
Haul it...
When I bought my former 31 4 years ago, I had the same dilema. I pulled the boat and we replaced all thru hulls with the ball type shut offs. With two of the replacements, the actual thru hull worked loose when we removed the valve. We resealed it and it held when we launched the boat. (Search this site, someone gave helpful comments about using an oversize socked (?) to hold the thru hull from the underside to prevent loosening.) Point is that's something you would not want to deal with in the water. You'd have a potentially serious leak and would have to head to the marina for an emergency lift ($$$), or have a great bilge pump with lots of battery power. If you search this site, you will find many postings on the compression post problem. If you did not do it at survey, have the mast lifted/removed and reseal the hole with the wires running into the compression post. DO NOT DELAY DOING THIS! If it has not done so, it will probably leak and the damage is far greater than the simple repair. $150 or so now will save a lot of time and concern later. Don
When I bought my former 31 4 years ago, I had the same dilema. I pulled the boat and we replaced all thru hulls with the ball type shut offs. With two of the replacements, the actual thru hull worked loose when we removed the valve. We resealed it and it held when we launched the boat. (Search this site, someone gave helpful comments about using an oversize socked (?) to hold the thru hull from the underside to prevent loosening.) Point is that's something you would not want to deal with in the water. You'd have a potentially serious leak and would have to head to the marina for an emergency lift ($$$), or have a great bilge pump with lots of battery power. If you search this site, you will find many postings on the compression post problem. If you did not do it at survey, have the mast lifted/removed and reseal the hole with the wires running into the compression post. DO NOT DELAY DOING THIS! If it has not done so, it will probably leak and the damage is far greater than the simple repair. $150 or so now will save a lot of time and concern later. Don
- Status
- Not open for further replies.