Hi All, The head counter cabinet's wood has is decayed. Looks like the previous owner never fixed the counter. What would be the best may to fix or even replace the counter and the cabinet? Can you purchase the cabinet and counter anywhere? thanks, zen
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S
S. Sauer
Head sink & countertop repair
It's difficult, if not impossible to remove the countertop from the head in a 28.5, however it's relatively easy to use a paint or wall paper scraper and peel up the laminate surfacing (works on the walls also). Home Depot had a white laminate , the spray glue and a laminate roller to re-install new laminate. The fumes from the contact cement are the only real problem with this job. If you want to do wall areas and not all of a partition, such as the area directly behind the head, you can scribe a horizontal line, say at counter top height; scrape off the laminate below the line; install new laminate; and add a 3/4" wide teak trim strip across the new joint. If the counter top plywood is so bad that it won't take new laminate, you could possibly add a thin layer of 1/4" marine plywood and then the new laminate. The teak trim on the front of the countertop will conceal the extra depth but you may need to modify the re-installation of the faucets and sink for the greater thickness. Good Luck and I'm sure you'l find it's a worthwhile improvement.
It's difficult, if not impossible to remove the countertop from the head in a 28.5, however it's relatively easy to use a paint or wall paper scraper and peel up the laminate surfacing (works on the walls also). Home Depot had a white laminate , the spray glue and a laminate roller to re-install new laminate. The fumes from the contact cement are the only real problem with this job. If you want to do wall areas and not all of a partition, such as the area directly behind the head, you can scribe a horizontal line, say at counter top height; scrape off the laminate below the line; install new laminate; and add a 3/4" wide teak trim strip across the new joint. If the counter top plywood is so bad that it won't take new laminate, you could possibly add a thin layer of 1/4" marine plywood and then the new laminate. The teak trim on the front of the countertop will conceal the extra depth but you may need to modify the re-installation of the faucets and sink for the greater thickness. Good Luck and I'm sure you'l find it's a worthwhile improvement.
Z
Zen
Not a bad idea
Thanks S. Sauer... The laminate on top of the counter top is damaged and peeled, so I will try your method. Also inside the cabinet there is some mold on the corners and towards the bottom plywood. What would be the best way to fix this? Maybe scrap off the mold and use a wood hardener?
Thanks S. Sauer... The laminate on top of the counter top is damaged and peeled, so I will try your method. Also inside the cabinet there is some mold on the corners and towards the bottom plywood. What would be the best way to fix this? Maybe scrap off the mold and use a wood hardener?
K
KEN MATEJKA
REPAIR THE PROBLEM
I fixed mine 2 yrs ago. The laminate was peeling off, the fiddle board had inadvertently been pulled of by a friend, and the plywood was feeling a little spongy. On my boat this was due to the leaking head portlight. Whenever it rained the counter would always get soaking wet. If this is the case in your boat I would fix the leak first. I then went to home depot and purchased white formica--cheap. Then, I stripped all of the old laminate from the plywood with a scraper and liberally applied thin epoxy to the wood and let it soak in and harden. Then, I traced the exact shape of the counter onto a piece of wrapping paper with a pencil and transferred that to the formica and cut it out. Then I mixed epoxy with filler(to make a paste) and epoxied the formica down. Put down corner sealant and attached the fiddle board. I also backed the fiddle board with 1X1 teak stock as the origial configuration had the fiddle screwed into the edge of the plywood---not very strong or secure at all. With 1X1 teak stock behind the fiddle I could the anchor the teak stock to the upper surface of the plywood and drill through the fiddle to the stock to anchor the fiddle--much stronger. It still looks great and is very strong. I don't think you can buy a new cabinet as these were probably made as the boat was being finished out simply by measuring. You will find the the counter is not square at all. Also, I replaced the cheap, plastic, discolored, junky sink bowl with a stainless bowl which a bought at West Marine for 30 bucks. Good luck with your project and make sure you don't have a gate valve in place draining that sink.
I fixed mine 2 yrs ago. The laminate was peeling off, the fiddle board had inadvertently been pulled of by a friend, and the plywood was feeling a little spongy. On my boat this was due to the leaking head portlight. Whenever it rained the counter would always get soaking wet. If this is the case in your boat I would fix the leak first. I then went to home depot and purchased white formica--cheap. Then, I stripped all of the old laminate from the plywood with a scraper and liberally applied thin epoxy to the wood and let it soak in and harden. Then, I traced the exact shape of the counter onto a piece of wrapping paper with a pencil and transferred that to the formica and cut it out. Then I mixed epoxy with filler(to make a paste) and epoxied the formica down. Put down corner sealant and attached the fiddle board. I also backed the fiddle board with 1X1 teak stock as the origial configuration had the fiddle screwed into the edge of the plywood---not very strong or secure at all. With 1X1 teak stock behind the fiddle I could the anchor the teak stock to the upper surface of the plywood and drill through the fiddle to the stock to anchor the fiddle--much stronger. It still looks great and is very strong. I don't think you can buy a new cabinet as these were probably made as the boat was being finished out simply by measuring. You will find the the counter is not square at all. Also, I replaced the cheap, plastic, discolored, junky sink bowl with a stainless bowl which a bought at West Marine for 30 bucks. Good luck with your project and make sure you don't have a gate valve in place draining that sink.
Z
Zen
How did you fix the head portlight?
Thanks for your dtailed response Ken M. I noticed the outside gasket of the head portlight has gaps and not totally sealed. That's were the problem probably originated. How did you fix it?
Thanks for your dtailed response Ken M. I noticed the outside gasket of the head portlight has gaps and not totally sealed. That's were the problem probably originated. How did you fix it?
L
larry seib
use bleach
house hold bleach would be best if your not going to see the wood after your finished. gloves and eye shield would be a plus. Its hard to sail if your blind
house hold bleach would be best if your not going to see the wood after your finished. gloves and eye shield would be a plus. Its hard to sail if your blind
K
ken matejka
portlight fix
You must completely remove the portlight, clean it, clean the mating surfaces, and put back together using a polysulfide based sealer. I would not use 5200 as this is permanent stuff and if the leak ever starts again it will be a bear to get the portlight out agian.
You must completely remove the portlight, clean it, clean the mating surfaces, and put back together using a polysulfide based sealer. I would not use 5200 as this is permanent stuff and if the leak ever starts again it will be a bear to get the portlight out agian.
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