- Status
Reefing set-up
In my experience with my 33, two line reefing works much better. There is too much friction created running that line through all those openings. With two line, one line controls the tack, the other controls the clew. You end up with much better, controllable sail shape. Grab a free copy of the Harken catalog at West Marine. There are several diagrams there that will get you started. Simple description: At the mast you want to pull the tack down and forward so it tucks into the goose-neck. Bullseye fairleads and cheek blocks work for this. At the aft end my reefing line ties around the boom, goes up through the clew cringle, around the sheave at the end of the boom, inside the boom, out via the hole right by the jam stopper. Open up and smooth the hole to reduce friction. You can use the jam stopper or move the little white nylon sheave up, and bring the line around it to lead it down and aft to a winch and clutch at the cockpit. I can't offer you pictures right now because the mast and boom are down and in pieces.
In my experience with my 33, two line reefing works much better. There is too much friction created running that line through all those openings. With two line, one line controls the tack, the other controls the clew. You end up with much better, controllable sail shape. Grab a free copy of the Harken catalog at West Marine. There are several diagrams there that will get you started. Simple description: At the mast you want to pull the tack down and forward so it tucks into the goose-neck. Bullseye fairleads and cheek blocks work for this. At the aft end my reefing line ties around the boom, goes up through the clew cringle, around the sheave at the end of the boom, inside the boom, out via the hole right by the jam stopper. Open up and smooth the hole to reduce friction. You can use the jam stopper or move the little white nylon sheave up, and bring the line around it to lead it down and aft to a winch and clutch at the cockpit. I can't offer you pictures right now because the mast and boom are down and in pieces.
Steve, on my web site are some pictures of my
single line reefing setup for Joe, a sailor here. The pictures are #123-#127. Kenyon rig too. Maybe it'll help.
single line reefing setup for Joe, a sailor here. The pictures are #123-#127. Kenyon rig too. Maybe it'll help.
Fred
Fredster: Somehow I knew those Camaro snaps would eventually show up on your web site. She looks as good as "Epitome." You are a legend and set standards we all can only dream of. John Richard s/v Jack's Place
Fredster: Somehow I knew those Camaro snaps would eventually show up on your web site. She looks as good as "Epitome." You are a legend and set standards we all can only dream of. John Richard s/v Jack's Place
Thanks John, and you know we have one of
those 'mutual' clubs going. But one more thing. Would you tell that to my wife?
I only get passing grades, and then only after I vacuum.
those 'mutual' clubs going. But one more thing. Would you tell that to my wife?
I only get passing grades, and then only after I vacuum.
Single reeefing friction
Fred As I understand your pictures, you have inserted sheaves at the reefing points close to the mast. I have been wondering about that, but up to now i have been looking for sheaved which I would sew onto my sail, (or maybe have in a pocket on the sail) to prevent wear. Your pictures does not indicate such a solution. Does this mean that wear on the sail is not a problem, or have I misunderstood your solution?
Fred As I understand your pictures, you have inserted sheaves at the reefing points close to the mast. I have been wondering about that, but up to now i have been looking for sheaved which I would sew onto my sail, (or maybe have in a pocket on the sail) to prevent wear. Your pictures does not indicate such a solution. Does this mean that wear on the sail is not a problem, or have I misunderstood your solution?
Kjell
I think I understand your question. My main was built with bails sewn into the luff at the reef points. Those bails are intended to be placed into the original Kenyon hooks at the gooseneck. I cut the hooks off. Then I placed turning blocks on the bails for the reefing lines. The line is lead from the cockpit to below the gooseneck and then up to the block. (one on each side of the main) Then the line goes down to the gooseneck and into a hole in the top of the gooseneck that I made. Then it turns via the block seen below the hole and goes to the aft part of the sail as a normal and original reef line. To reef, the main halyard is lowered to a spot that is pre-marked on the halyard in the cockpit. The reefing line is pulled until it doesn't pull anymore. That's it. I have to make sure lines are fair. I take up on the second reef too because it is now slack, but everybody has to do that. It works well and the gooseneck only has one extra hole on each side. It's still going strong after, lets see,,,,18 years.
I think I understand your question. My main was built with bails sewn into the luff at the reef points. Those bails are intended to be placed into the original Kenyon hooks at the gooseneck. I cut the hooks off. Then I placed turning blocks on the bails for the reefing lines. The line is lead from the cockpit to below the gooseneck and then up to the block. (one on each side of the main) Then the line goes down to the gooseneck and into a hole in the top of the gooseneck that I made. Then it turns via the block seen below the hole and goes to the aft part of the sail as a normal and original reef line. To reef, the main halyard is lowered to a spot that is pre-marked on the halyard in the cockpit. The reefing line is pulled until it doesn't pull anymore. That's it. I have to make sure lines are fair. I take up on the second reef too because it is now slack, but everybody has to do that. It works well and the gooseneck only has one extra hole on each side. It's still going strong after, lets see,,,,18 years.
Thank you, Fred
It was the turning block mounted on your bail I was interested in. The D-ring often used here creates a lot of friction when pulling the reefing line. The chafing on the sail due to the blocks then seem to be of little practical concern. This is an interesting solution, which I will look closer into. Thank you.
It was the turning block mounted on your bail I was interested in. The D-ring often used here creates a lot of friction when pulling the reefing line. The chafing on the sail due to the blocks then seem to be of little practical concern. This is an interesting solution, which I will look closer into. Thank you.
- Status