Single line reefing set up, tension angles

RichH · Sep 14, 2009

"There are two more cringles in the middle of the sail for the first reef, do I need to tie those down if I have the single line reefing set up to stretch the foot of the sail?"
Reply**** Tying in the reef nettles/points with any variation/choice of reefing is not absolutely necessary, but will allow the bottom of the sail to hang down below the boom, sometimes blocking your visibility. Tying-in the nettles/points however is a smart thing to do as it prevents needless chafe, and of course you will be able to see better.

"Also does the bottom part of the sail just bunch up at the boom?" - yes.

"Does it need to be flaked in some way?"
Reply**** The most common and fastest way is to 'bunch it'; however, laminate sails shouldnt be 'bunched'.
After setting the reef tack and clew, you can 'roll' the reefed portion before you tie in the points. Especially if the sail is 'filled' (resin filler in the fabric to lessen air permability - typically a racing sail made of woven dacron) ... same applies to laminate sails; rolling will help preserve the 'stiffness'. If the sail after repeated 'reefings' begins to show chafe or wear under the area where the tack and clew positions are reefed tight .... you can add sailcloth patches (sometimes just adhesive backed lightweight 'insignia cloth is 'good enough').

Scott T-Bird · Sep 14, 2009

I never tie the nettles at the reef points.

With the first reef, there is generally not enough material hanging down to be much of a bother. When you try reefing some time, you will see whether or not you think it is worth bundling and tying your sail at the reef points. Just remember that these reef points in the middle of the sail are NOT reinforced and NOT intended to withstand any stress. If you shake out your reef and forget to untie the nettles, you can easily rip your sails ... plenty of sailors have done it.

I think the knock against single line reefing is that there is a lot of friction loss induced by all the turns the line has to make. It's hard to eliminate it and many think that with all the friction, it is harder to flatten the sail. Remember, with just about every system, there are always trade-offs. I have rams horns at my gooseneck which I use to hook a strap cringle at the tack of both my reef settings. Therefore, I have single line reefing just for the clew of my sail. I like it this way but the trade off is that I have to climb forward to attach the tack to the rams horn. Others have double line reefing, which gives nice control at the cockpit but there are 2 extra lines to deal with in the cockpit, meaning that extra control blocks, deck organizers, and clutches are also being employed ... another trade-off.

Everybody has to go thru their own learning process to find their own personal preferences. While I'd agree with Rich that the second reef leaves enough sail material that you need to bundle it and tie it down, I don't think the first reef needs to have that step taken. But my perspective is different ... if I was on long ocean passages, I would be more concerned about chafe and have a different attitude about deck organization.

Joe · Sep 14, 2009

Just make sure the clew blocks are positioned to pull down AND back, because you no longer have the outhaul.

Regarding the inside reef points, they serve no function other than to tidy up the sail and improve visibility. The don't improve sail shape. I wouldn't bother with them for short term reefing... but that's up to you... the most important thing to remember is to take them out first before releasing the clew or tack. If you don't there's a huge danger the sail will rip.... not good. To help prevent that many sailors use colored sail ties (never could get used to saying "nettles"). I find the webbing strips (sail ties) I use to lash down the main works pretty well, or you can just cut a few lengths of small diameter line to do the trick. This is personal but I hate the nettles left in the main, flogging around. Out here, where we don't reef that often, it is uncool to sail with the fringe.

Prime Time · Sep 14, 2009

Simplicity has its virtues

I have 2 sets of reef points. A block on a moveable track on the boom for the reefing line on the leech cringle x 2. For the luff, I just tie a line through the cringle then around the boom. Works fine.
Lower halyard partially, tie luff, tension leech line, rehoist halyard.

Stephen K · Sep 15, 2009

lazy jacks and reefing

Hermit Scott said:
I guess lazy jacks work well while reefing with single line, to keep the sail up and out of the line of sight?

Hermit, while I have lazy jacks, I certainly don't need them for reefing. There is not a lot of sail hanging down in the line of sight from using reef #1. If you are concerned about traffic and visability while reefing, why not heave too and then make your reef.

seanshine · Sep 15, 2009

Scott, you can eliminate the bunching and chafe at the tack cringle by installing a block at the reef cringle. I just tied the block to a very short rope through the cringle. It makes it much easier to reef with no chafe on the sail. Also, make a mark on the main halyard how far to lower it. Makes it much easier to raise if you only only need to go up 6 inches. Sean

Joe · Sep 15, 2009

no big deal

Hermit Scott said:
I guess lazy jacks work well while reefing with single line, to keep the sail up and out of the line of sight?

I wouldn't use lazy jacks in that application... Why make things more complicated. If the extra material annoys you, then grab a piece of small diameter line and tie it out of the way. That said, I've never had visiblity problems with a single reef. By the way, if I plan motoring for any length of time, I'll lower the headsail and reef the main to minimize the boat's rocking, side to side, motion.

BobM · Sep 16, 2009

However, if you already have lazy jacks they will of course keep the sail under control during reefing and out of your line of site, as long as they are tightened.