After the past weekend's wild sailing here on Long Island Sound, I have come to a couple of conclusions: 1. Single-Line Reefing only works well when done at the dock. 2. I don't want it. Saturday was a case in point... the breeze went from Force 3 to Force 6, then back to Force 3. I was so exhausted from grinding in reefs (and grinding the main back up to shake them out) that it tarnished what should have been a great day of hull-speed sailing. The friction of the single line system in both directions (installing and shaking out the reef) is ridiculous. So, I went to WM and bought a couple of ramshorns, bolted them to the gooseneck, and unrigged the reefing line from the luff cringle. Now, I'll have to go forward to hook the luff cringle to the horns. Big deal, I did that for years until these single-line systems came along. The weak point of this arranglement--now just a simple jiffy reefing system-- is that I have to uncleat the main halyard from inside the cockpit before I go forward, then tighten it after I return. I think I can solve this by carefully marking the reef points on the halyard so I can lower it precisely, then re-cleat it before I go up to hook on the tack cringle. Maybe some whipping twine. I go forward all the time in crummy conditions. I have jacklines and a good harness. So, I guess I don't see the big deal as long as I'm clipped on. Paul sv Escape Artist h336
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Not the Perfect System
Yea, it can get frustrating. I take my sails off every winter and when reinstalling the mainsail sometimes I rig it with jiffy reefing and sometimes I don't, and it's usually latter. Kinda like get round to it but never do. However, reefing early before the sail gets heavily loaded works much better. Frankly, I think the rams horns give a better sail shape at a time when you need it the most and with slab reefing I can get the mainsail as flat as a board. Agree that marking the main halyard makes the operation go much smoother.
Yea, it can get frustrating. I take my sails off every winter and when reinstalling the mainsail sometimes I rig it with jiffy reefing and sometimes I don't, and it's usually latter. Kinda like get round to it but never do. However, reefing early before the sail gets heavily loaded works much better. Frankly, I think the rams horns give a better sail shape at a time when you need it the most and with slab reefing I can get the mainsail as flat as a board. Agree that marking the main halyard makes the operation go much smoother.
Welcome back
I still raise my sails and reef the main the old-fashioned way...from the foot of the mast. Peter the Dinosaur H23 "Raven"
I still raise my sails and reef the main the old-fashioned way...from the foot of the mast. Peter the Dinosaur H23 "Raven"
Single Line Reefing...
...is a very poor system. Paul, You just can't get the higher tension you need on the clew when the same line goes through the tack. Look for a Mainsheet article next time about double line reefing. Stu
...is a very poor system. Paul, You just can't get the higher tension you need on the clew when the same line goes through the tack. Look for a Mainsheet article next time about double line reefing. Stu
Reefing
See the discussion a couple of weeks ago about leading halyards to the cockpit. Better to keep them on the mast so that you don't need both hands one foot and your teeth to get a reef in.
See the discussion a couple of weeks ago about leading halyards to the cockpit. Better to keep them on the mast so that you don't need both hands one foot and your teeth to get a reef in.
Winchless
To control the halyard from the mast, I'd have to install a winch up there! That's the main reason why boatbuilders are so happy to lead all lines back to the cockpit: fewer winches. Besides, being able to blow the halyard from the cockpit is a very good thing, I think.
To control the halyard from the mast, I'd have to install a winch up there! That's the main reason why boatbuilders are so happy to lead all lines back to the cockpit: fewer winches. Besides, being able to blow the halyard from the cockpit is a very good thing, I think.
Paul, how big is your boat?
My H23 has a winch on the mast for the halyards but I rarely use it. However, having been there I can definitely see the need for a winch to raise the mainsail on anything over 40 feet. Peter H23 "Raven"
My H23 has a winch on the mast for the halyards but I rarely use it. However, having been there I can definitely see the need for a winch to raise the mainsail on anything over 40 feet. Peter H23 "Raven"
Big Main
My boat is 33.6 ft LOA, with 575 sq feet of sail area. I can get the main to the top with just my arms and body weight, but the winch is necessary to get the luff tight. Still, I think having the halyard cleat in the cockpit will be OK with if I mark it well. The only things that concern me are: - Arriving at the mast only find that I didn't ease the halyard enough for the cringle to reach the horn. - Easing the halyard too much so that the cringle won't stay on the horn. We'll try it out this weekend and see how it goes. Good chance for another weekend of fresh northwesterlies here in New England. Paul sv Escape Artist h336
My boat is 33.6 ft LOA, with 575 sq feet of sail area. I can get the main to the top with just my arms and body weight, but the winch is necessary to get the luff tight. Still, I think having the halyard cleat in the cockpit will be OK with if I mark it well. The only things that concern me are: - Arriving at the mast only find that I didn't ease the halyard enough for the cringle to reach the horn. - Easing the halyard too much so that the cringle won't stay on the horn. We'll try it out this weekend and see how it goes. Good chance for another weekend of fresh northwesterlies here in New England. Paul sv Escape Artist h336
Lube the System
My previous boat a Hunter Legand 37 had all lines leading to the cockpit. Reefing never was that much of a problem. Lube the turning blocks to make them run free. Lube the sail track to make the main easy to hoist. Completely ease the mainsheet and vang. Why go up on deck when the wind pipes up to reef when you can do it from the safety of your cockpit? Bill
My previous boat a Hunter Legand 37 had all lines leading to the cockpit. Reefing never was that much of a problem. Lube the turning blocks to make them run free. Lube the sail track to make the main easy to hoist. Completely ease the mainsheet and vang. Why go up on deck when the wind pipes up to reef when you can do it from the safety of your cockpit? Bill
Why not have 2 lines for each reef...
...all led back to the cockpit? Safer than going forward, better control of sail shape, and the friction problem is halved at least. My boat's small, but if I had a larger one I'd seriously consider a system like the one linked to below. It's a double line system, and each reef can be achieved at the mast OR from the cockpit.
...all led back to the cockpit? Safer than going forward, better control of sail shape, and the friction problem is halved at least. My boat's small, but if I had a larger one I'd seriously consider a system like the one linked to below. It's a double line system, and each reef can be achieved at the mast OR from the cockpit.
Heave to to reef
We heave to when we need to reef under way. Everything calms down. It's much easier and safer to move the the mast to set the reef point on the rams horn, and to tighten the clew with the jiffy reefing line. We have winches there if needed. The halyard runs back to the cockpit, and I need to mark it as suggested. Although the main loads up occasionally when hove to, it is eased enough to get the main down. Working on a calm boat also makes us more deliberate, and makes it easier to gather the main in the reefing lines. By the way, this also works just fine when single handing. Of course the other good guidance is to reef the minute we think of it, before the wind increases further. David Lady Lillie
We heave to when we need to reef under way. Everything calms down. It's much easier and safer to move the the mast to set the reef point on the rams horn, and to tighten the clew with the jiffy reefing line. We have winches there if needed. The halyard runs back to the cockpit, and I need to mark it as suggested. Although the main loads up occasionally when hove to, it is eased enough to get the main down. Working on a calm boat also makes us more deliberate, and makes it easier to gather the main in the reefing lines. By the way, this also works just fine when single handing. Of course the other good guidance is to reef the minute we think of it, before the wind increases further. David Lady Lillie
Single Line Reefing
Out here in San Francisco, a typical afternoon can have us setting and shaking out a reef several times, so I know what a PITA it can be, especially when you're double handing with your spouse (and you get to do all the grinding). I like single line reefing. It works so well for me that I do it on the fly, fisherman style. I haven't "heaved to" in years. I think that the secret is a combination of reducing friction and proper procedure. We reduced friction by keeping all the shive wheels and turning blocks clean and grime free. We flush them after every sail. Likewise, we rinse the reefing lines and halyards to keep them from getting stiff. You may need to replace a block if a bearing is shot at it won't spin freely. Another way of taking out friction is to install lightweight 1" blocks at the reef cringle and tack (backed by a 1" stainless ring). Running the reefing lines through ball bearing blocks instead of SS cringles will greatly reduce friction. We marked the reef setting on the main halyard to speed up the reefing process. This is how we reef. First, we point the boat up into a close reach and trim the jib, then we ease out the main fisherman style. We release any vang tension and then drop the main below the halyard's reef mark. Take in the reefing line. We do not have to use the winch to take in the reef, because with the halyard below the reef setting, all the tension is taken off the leech. Set the boom strop. Reset main tension by grinding to the mark on the halyard. Trim mainsheet and off you go. Unfortunately, you still have to grind on the halyard to shake out the reef, but you'll have to do that in a two line reefing system also. One of the things I learned from the "go fast" guys is using a boom strop to hold the cringle against the boom. I had my local sailmaker sew velcro on both sides of a 2-3 foot length of 1" specta webbing. I weave the webbing through the cringle a couple of times before I tension the leach with the halyard. Velcro is amazing stuff, a couple of wraps around the boom is all it takes. The cringle lays on the boom and all (well, most) of the tension on the reefing line is devoted to maintaining a tight leech. And it will not inadvertently come undone. There are confirmed jiffy reefers out there that will remain unconvinced, but if you have an open mind, try it - It works for me and should work for you. In fact, I heartily encourage Stu not to try this as we frequently race against each other and I'd prefer that he sticks with jiffy reefing.
Out here in San Francisco, a typical afternoon can have us setting and shaking out a reef several times, so I know what a PITA it can be, especially when you're double handing with your spouse (and you get to do all the grinding). I like single line reefing. It works so well for me that I do it on the fly, fisherman style. I haven't "heaved to" in years. I think that the secret is a combination of reducing friction and proper procedure. We reduced friction by keeping all the shive wheels and turning blocks clean and grime free. We flush them after every sail. Likewise, we rinse the reefing lines and halyards to keep them from getting stiff. You may need to replace a block if a bearing is shot at it won't spin freely. Another way of taking out friction is to install lightweight 1" blocks at the reef cringle and tack (backed by a 1" stainless ring). Running the reefing lines through ball bearing blocks instead of SS cringles will greatly reduce friction. We marked the reef setting on the main halyard to speed up the reefing process. This is how we reef. First, we point the boat up into a close reach and trim the jib, then we ease out the main fisherman style. We release any vang tension and then drop the main below the halyard's reef mark. Take in the reefing line. We do not have to use the winch to take in the reef, because with the halyard below the reef setting, all the tension is taken off the leech. Set the boom strop. Reset main tension by grinding to the mark on the halyard. Trim mainsheet and off you go. Unfortunately, you still have to grind on the halyard to shake out the reef, but you'll have to do that in a two line reefing system also. One of the things I learned from the "go fast" guys is using a boom strop to hold the cringle against the boom. I had my local sailmaker sew velcro on both sides of a 2-3 foot length of 1" specta webbing. I weave the webbing through the cringle a couple of times before I tension the leach with the halyard. Velcro is amazing stuff, a couple of wraps around the boom is all it takes. The cringle lays on the boom and all (well, most) of the tension on the reefing line is devoted to maintaining a tight leech. And it will not inadvertently come undone. There are confirmed jiffy reefers out there that will remain unconvinced, but if you have an open mind, try it - It works for me and should work for you. In fact, I heartily encourage Stu not to try this as we frequently race against each other and I'd prefer that he sticks with jiffy reefing.
do you have a block at the reef grommet?
on the 272 we use a system that runs that single line from the turning block at the base of the mast to a block attached to the reef grommet at the mast to a block in the boom to a block near the end of the boom to the aft reef grommet. Is this about what you are having a problem with? Vic "Seven"
on the 272 we use a system that runs that single line from the turning block at the base of the mast to a block attached to the reef grommet at the mast to a block in the boom to a block near the end of the boom to the aft reef grommet. Is this about what you are having a problem with? Vic "Seven"
Single Line Reefing II
I second George B's approach. The only difference is when lowering the main I (or my mate)hauls in the appropriate reefing line at the same time. The key is having the various points clearly marked on the halyard and the reefing lines as well as on the mast. There is no question that raising the main when one or both of the reefing lines have been pulled through the system is a bear. That's when I appreciate the electric winch the most. Normally we do not pull the reefing lines through the system when we drop the main. Leave them lying in a heap and the main goes up a great deal easier the next time. I can get great sail shape with a single reef. When I have a double reef, I find the sail fuller than I would like, but I think it is a problem with the large roached main rather than single line reefing compared to jiffy reefing. It has taken a couple of years of practice, but we can put in and shake out a reef in less than a minute on most points of sail in most weather, thanks largely to the electric winch. Peter Milne S/V Blue Heron
I second George B's approach. The only difference is when lowering the main I (or my mate)hauls in the appropriate reefing line at the same time. The key is having the various points clearly marked on the halyard and the reefing lines as well as on the mast. There is no question that raising the main when one or both of the reefing lines have been pulled through the system is a bear. That's when I appreciate the electric winch the most. Normally we do not pull the reefing lines through the system when we drop the main. Leave them lying in a heap and the main goes up a great deal easier the next time. I can get great sail shape with a single reef. When I have a double reef, I find the sail fuller than I would like, but I think it is a problem with the large roached main rather than single line reefing compared to jiffy reefing. It has taken a couple of years of practice, but we can put in and shake out a reef in less than a minute on most points of sail in most weather, thanks largely to the electric winch. Peter Milne S/V Blue Heron
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