Have all control lines brought to cockpit(except lazyjacks) When ready to raise sails, I set autohelm after heading boat into wind.I raise mainsail and then go forward to raise lazyjacks. When back in cockpit, I release autohelm and set course, trim main, unfurl genoa and trim. Sofar everything is great! Now for the difficult, time to tack(haven't tried to jibe yet) I get the genny ready and come about setting new course and locking the autohelm while trying to move the traveler over and then attempting to move the genny(a 155)over before something rips. By this time, I have lost all speed, amazed that I didn't snarl my foot in a line and cast myself overboard! There has got to be a better way? Can I adjust the autohelm to turn 90 degrees(presently 45 degrees off headwind),engage, and then tend to sails or will the autohelm be too slow for tacking? What about for jibing? Sorry for long post TIA Forrest
Single handing newbie questions
- Thread starter WindDancer
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Probably
I'm only familar with the Raymarine autohelms, but I'm sure others have a similar feature. On mine, if I push the +1 and +10 buttons at the same time, I will tack 90 degrees to starboard. If I press the -1 and -10 at the same time, it will tack 90 degrees to port. Check your manual, I bet whatever brand you have, it has something similar. BTW, I didn't "trust" that feature for the first year I had my ST2000. One day, I was bored and decided to experiment. It was proably about 10 knots, and the feature worked perfectly. It turned fast enough to ensure that I actually successfully tacked, but I still had plenty of time to tend to the jib sheets alone. I've since tried it on windier days, and more calm days, and it works very well 90% of the time.
I'm only familar with the Raymarine autohelms, but I'm sure others have a similar feature. On mine, if I push the +1 and +10 buttons at the same time, I will tack 90 degrees to starboard. If I press the -1 and -10 at the same time, it will tack 90 degrees to port. Check your manual, I bet whatever brand you have, it has something similar. BTW, I didn't "trust" that feature for the first year I had my ST2000. One day, I was bored and decided to experiment. It was proably about 10 knots, and the feature worked perfectly. It turned fast enough to ensure that I actually successfully tacked, but I still had plenty of time to tend to the jib sheets alone. I've since tried it on windier days, and more calm days, and it works very well 90% of the time.
Your Autohelm should have a tack function
Most auto helms have a tack funcion. ie push both 1+ and 10+ keys to tack 90degrees to starboard. At the very least push the 10 button 9 times. While the boat is coming about you tack the jib and adjust the traveler last. We lake sailors do a lot of tacking and the auto pilot sure makes it a lot easier. It understands directions, dosen't get an attitude or drink your beer. Have fun.
Most auto helms have a tack funcion. ie push both 1+ and 10+ keys to tack 90degrees to starboard. At the very least push the 10 button 9 times. While the boat is coming about you tack the jib and adjust the traveler last. We lake sailors do a lot of tacking and the auto pilot sure makes it a lot easier. It understands directions, dosen't get an attitude or drink your beer. Have fun.
Autohelm trick
Thanks Herb for the autohelm info. I have a ST4000 and no manual, didn't know about that feature. In your post, you said it worked well 90% of time. What about that other 10%? Also, is the turn too fast for a jibe when the main is out aways beyond the traveler limit? I don't want to break something with the boom screaming across above my head faster than I can control it.
Thanks Herb for the autohelm info. I have a ST4000 and no manual, didn't know about that feature. In your post, you said it worked well 90% of time. What about that other 10%? Also, is the turn too fast for a jibe when the main is out aways beyond the traveler limit? I don't want to break something with the boom screaming across above my head faster than I can control it.
Go to the web site
I suggest going to the manufacturer's web site and downloading the manual. Good luck.
I suggest going to the manufacturer's web site and downloading the manual. Good luck.
Traveller?
Why are you adjusting the traveller when tacking single handed? Racers will pull it to weather to center the boom - but a cruiser can give up a bit of pointing ability for easier sailing. I would center the traveller upwind and leave it alone unless overpowered and you need to drop it to leeward some. And, Mission Bay is not usually so windy that you need to depower - So generally I would simplify by centering the traveller. Also - consider a smaller headsail - easier handling. OC
Why are you adjusting the traveller when tacking single handed? Racers will pull it to weather to center the boom - but a cruiser can give up a bit of pointing ability for easier sailing. I would center the traveller upwind and leave it alone unless overpowered and you need to drop it to leeward some. And, Mission Bay is not usually so windy that you need to depower - So generally I would simplify by centering the traveller. Also - consider a smaller headsail - easier handling. OC
tacking
sometimes when my old autopilot (st4000) was acting up, I'd just push the -/+ 10 8 or 9 times quickly and have both jib sheets in my other hand. As it goes around I'd pull tightly on the going to sheet and then wrap it around the winch. Then let it out a little until the telltails are flying and then adjust the main (always trying to get the best pointing I can). Usually though, the 1 and 10 button worked fine. Sometimes though, for just day sailing, I'd purposely turn a normal tack into a heave-to. I'd use those times to take a break and do whatever I felt like down below. Kemah can get so crowed that one doesn't leave the helm for more then a handful of seconds under full sail.
sometimes when my old autopilot (st4000) was acting up, I'd just push the -/+ 10 8 or 9 times quickly and have both jib sheets in my other hand. As it goes around I'd pull tightly on the going to sheet and then wrap it around the winch. Then let it out a little until the telltails are flying and then adjust the main (always trying to get the best pointing I can). Usually though, the 1 and 10 button worked fine. Sometimes though, for just day sailing, I'd purposely turn a normal tack into a heave-to. I'd use those times to take a break and do whatever I felt like down below. Kemah can get so crowed that one doesn't leave the helm for more then a handful of seconds under full sail.
Natural Order of Things
Good advice so far (auto-tack feature and just centering your traveller). Taking it a little further, there's a couple approachs to single handed management of your traveller. The first one is to sail as you have been using your traveller, but leave it as the last thing that you adjust after a tack. The first things that need attention in a tack are tiller (which you might be able to attend to with your autohelm), the current leeward sheet needs to be released, and the new leeward sheet needs to be hauled in and trimmed. Once you've used all 5 of your hands and one foot to get that accomplished, THEN turn your attention to the traveller. Getting the traveller back up to the new windward side might be a bit of a chore depending upon how you are rigged, but it is doable, and it doesn't have to be done in any kind of hurry. Another non-racing single handed approach to dealing with your traveller is to make it a "before you begin your course adjustment" event. Make a mental note of the position of the traveller to windward, then ease it down to leeward until it is at approximately the same position, only on the other side of the boat, and lock in both sides. Sure, you'll lose a little sail power, but it's only for a second. Now, start through the rest of your single-handed tack: Ready the current windward jib sheet and winch handle, take a wrap off the current leeward sheet and hold it in your hand. Initiate your tack (using your autohelm if you have it, or your foot on the tiller if you don't), release the current leeward sheet as the bow comes through the wind and the sail comes over, trim in the new leeward sheet and you are set to go. One last tip about using the autotack feature - take a good hard 360 degree look as you get ready to tack, and then once again, just before you push the button(s). There's no blaming the autopilot when you snap turn in front of another boat, or tack into the course of another boat and you're distracted with handling all the lines. Good Luck! Tim Brogan April IV C350 #68 Seattle
Good advice so far (auto-tack feature and just centering your traveller). Taking it a little further, there's a couple approachs to single handed management of your traveller. The first one is to sail as you have been using your traveller, but leave it as the last thing that you adjust after a tack. The first things that need attention in a tack are tiller (which you might be able to attend to with your autohelm), the current leeward sheet needs to be released, and the new leeward sheet needs to be hauled in and trimmed. Once you've used all 5 of your hands and one foot to get that accomplished, THEN turn your attention to the traveller. Getting the traveller back up to the new windward side might be a bit of a chore depending upon how you are rigged, but it is doable, and it doesn't have to be done in any kind of hurry. Another non-racing single handed approach to dealing with your traveller is to make it a "before you begin your course adjustment" event. Make a mental note of the position of the traveller to windward, then ease it down to leeward until it is at approximately the same position, only on the other side of the boat, and lock in both sides. Sure, you'll lose a little sail power, but it's only for a second. Now, start through the rest of your single-handed tack: Ready the current windward jib sheet and winch handle, take a wrap off the current leeward sheet and hold it in your hand. Initiate your tack (using your autohelm if you have it, or your foot on the tiller if you don't), release the current leeward sheet as the bow comes through the wind and the sail comes over, trim in the new leeward sheet and you are set to go. One last tip about using the autotack feature - take a good hard 360 degree look as you get ready to tack, and then once again, just before you push the button(s). There's no blaming the autopilot when you snap turn in front of another boat, or tack into the course of another boat and you're distracted with handling all the lines. Good Luck! Tim Brogan April IV C350 #68 Seattle
Thanks Guys
for all the great info. Oldcat...I have been playing with the traveller to see what effect it has other than to decrease the heel when moved leeward. I will return it to center before tacking to simplify things in the future and then play with it before the next tack. Also, a smaller headsail might be easier, but the 155 sure gets the juices going!
for all the great info. Oldcat...I have been playing with the traveller to see what effect it has other than to decrease the heel when moved leeward. I will return it to center before tacking to simplify things in the future and then play with it before the next tack. Also, a smaller headsail might be easier, but the 155 sure gets the juices going!
Auto Tack
I was playing with the auto tack feature recently, to reduce the "speed" of the tack, reduce the rudder gain on the autohelm.
I was playing with the auto tack feature recently, to reduce the "speed" of the tack, reduce the rudder gain on the autohelm.
Use the genny to help you turn
A couple of observations - first as a newbie, while an autopilot is useful, you should really be comfortable handling the boat w/o the autopilot engaged - that is being able to tack it back and forth in different wind conditions by yourself, w/o engaging an autopilot. That said, from a speed perspective, I read on this forum a month or so ago not to let go of the genny to fast - that is, use the genny to help you turn, only after you cross the wind, should you let go and swtich your sheets. This i believe, should improve your speed and make your turns quicker.
A couple of observations - first as a newbie, while an autopilot is useful, you should really be comfortable handling the boat w/o the autopilot engaged - that is being able to tack it back and forth in different wind conditions by yourself, w/o engaging an autopilot. That said, from a speed perspective, I read on this forum a month or so ago not to let go of the genny to fast - that is, use the genny to help you turn, only after you cross the wind, should you let go and swtich your sheets. This i believe, should improve your speed and make your turns quicker.
True even with Auto Pilot
I agree with Tony that you should be familiar with tacking the boat without the auto pilot. That said, I do use my auto pilot about 75% of the time when sailing by myself and I backwind the genny (leave it on the upwind side) briefly as the auto pilot makes the turn. The key is to get all the slack out of the genny sheet and get it on the winch before it fills with wind and puts a load on the line. Practice this a couple of times and see if you can trim the genny before it totally fills with wind. Good luck -- and wear a PFD if you are sailing alone -- I use an offhore inflatable with an integrated harness.
I agree with Tony that you should be familiar with tacking the boat without the auto pilot. That said, I do use my auto pilot about 75% of the time when sailing by myself and I backwind the genny (leave it on the upwind side) briefly as the auto pilot makes the turn. The key is to get all the slack out of the genny sheet and get it on the winch before it fills with wind and puts a load on the line. Practice this a couple of times and see if you can trim the genny before it totally fills with wind. Good luck -- and wear a PFD if you are sailing alone -- I use an offhore inflatable with an integrated harness.
Tony and Steve
I got the impression his boat is like mine where the winches are on the top of the cabin forward of the cockpit and not on the side near the helm. If that is the case, it's hard to get it right without the auto-pilot because sooner or later you have to leave the helm to lock in the sheet. Now if your using the auto-pilot, it's much easier because you just stand near the winches and reach over and hit the button and then go to work.
I got the impression his boat is like mine where the winches are on the top of the cabin forward of the cockpit and not on the side near the helm. If that is the case, it's hard to get it right without the auto-pilot because sooner or later you have to leave the helm to lock in the sheet. Now if your using the auto-pilot, it's much easier because you just stand near the winches and reach over and hit the button and then go to work.
Jibing on Auto
Forrest, In theory, the auto-pilot should be able to auto-jibe as well. 90 degrees is 90 degrees no matter where the wind is coming from. That said, I'm not sure I'd do it. If you're so overpowered you can't manually handle the boat, you're too overpowered to do a safe jibe. The advice to learn to sail without the autopilot is a good advice. Notice I had my autopilot a year before I tried it. The autopiolog can only do what you tell it to do. YOU have to know what to do. The first year and half that I had my O'Day 25, I always used the 150. I never reefed. One day when the wind was blowing 25 regulary, and gusting up to 30, one of the seams let loose. We switched to the 110, and sailed better and faster. Since then, I've become a believer. I've reinstalled the jiffy-reef, and we sail almost as much with the 110 as we do the 150. Don't get me wrong, I understand the thrill of running at 35 degrees for hours on end, but you need to learn to sail the boat right. Then "extreme sailing" will be more fun because you'll be more confident.
Forrest, In theory, the auto-pilot should be able to auto-jibe as well. 90 degrees is 90 degrees no matter where the wind is coming from. That said, I'm not sure I'd do it. If you're so overpowered you can't manually handle the boat, you're too overpowered to do a safe jibe. The advice to learn to sail without the autopilot is a good advice. Notice I had my autopilot a year before I tried it. The autopiolog can only do what you tell it to do. YOU have to know what to do. The first year and half that I had my O'Day 25, I always used the 150. I never reefed. One day when the wind was blowing 25 regulary, and gusting up to 30, one of the seams let loose. We switched to the 110, and sailed better and faster. Since then, I've become a believer. I've reinstalled the jiffy-reef, and we sail almost as much with the 110 as we do the 150. Don't get me wrong, I understand the thrill of running at 35 degrees for hours on end, but you need to learn to sail the boat right. Then "extreme sailing" will be more fun because you'll be more confident.
Not a thrillseeker
Herb, I hear what you are saying,I have sailed many times with someone to handle the wheel when I trim the sails ( or vice versa), I am only trying to find an enjoyable way to singlehand. I can do it all without the autohelm, but it is not much fun. More like a lot of work with "some" risk. My last concern is jibing with the autohelm fearing that it will come about too fast and the boom will swing out of control resulting in damage to the equipment, especially when the mainsheet has been let out for a broad reach downwind. Thanks again to everyone for all the good info, This forum has a wealth of knowledge.
Herb, I hear what you are saying,I have sailed many times with someone to handle the wheel when I trim the sails ( or vice versa), I am only trying to find an enjoyable way to singlehand. I can do it all without the autohelm, but it is not much fun. More like a lot of work with "some" risk. My last concern is jibing with the autohelm fearing that it will come about too fast and the boom will swing out of control resulting in damage to the equipment, especially when the mainsheet has been let out for a broad reach downwind. Thanks again to everyone for all the good info, This forum has a wealth of knowledge.
single hand setup
Franklin, I have a Lancer 36 with two winches on top of cabin at forward end of cockpit for the halyards, reef lines,cunningham and outhaul. I have two more winches on each side of the wheel(aft) to control the fairleads(sp) through an adjustable track on each side. The traveller has a 4-1 purchase on both sides mounted just forward of the wheel. It is very difficult to jump from behind the wheel over the traveller to the forward section of the cockpit where it is much easier to handle the winches for the genoa fairleads. The control for the autohelm is located behind the traveller to the port side of the wheel. Herb, the San Diego coast rarely has any wind above 15-20 knots, but am always ready to reef if necessary. If I am more than 20 degrees, I will loosen the vang to spill air if the traveller is already to leeward.
Franklin, I have a Lancer 36 with two winches on top of cabin at forward end of cockpit for the halyards, reef lines,cunningham and outhaul. I have two more winches on each side of the wheel(aft) to control the fairleads(sp) through an adjustable track on each side. The traveller has a 4-1 purchase on both sides mounted just forward of the wheel. It is very difficult to jump from behind the wheel over the traveller to the forward section of the cockpit where it is much easier to handle the winches for the genoa fairleads. The control for the autohelm is located behind the traveller to the port side of the wheel. Herb, the San Diego coast rarely has any wind above 15-20 knots, but am always ready to reef if necessary. If I am more than 20 degrees, I will loosen the vang to spill air if the traveller is already to leeward.
IF I Were Going to Auto-Jibe
When I jibe my O'Day 25, I always grab the mainsheet between the traveller and boom, and help "ease" it over. I suspect though, your 36 has too much sail to do that safely. Were I going to "auto-jibe" a boat that size, I'd sheet the boom almost all the way in (so it won't go over so hard). I'd sheet the jib in so that it would be set about equal to a close reach, and load and cleat the lazy jib sheet. Then I'd hit the auto buttons to do my 90 degree turn. As the boat jibed, I'd help ease the boom over, then eaze the now working jib sheet out. Finally, I'd ease the main back out. It wouldn't be pretty, and certainly wouldn't win any races, but I think that's about the smoothest you could do a jibe on auto. In reality, I'd probably do a "chicken jibe"
When I jibe my O'Day 25, I always grab the mainsheet between the traveller and boom, and help "ease" it over. I suspect though, your 36 has too much sail to do that safely. Were I going to "auto-jibe" a boat that size, I'd sheet the boom almost all the way in (so it won't go over so hard). I'd sheet the jib in so that it would be set about equal to a close reach, and load and cleat the lazy jib sheet. Then I'd hit the auto buttons to do my 90 degree turn. As the boat jibed, I'd help ease the boom over, then eaze the now working jib sheet out. Finally, I'd ease the main back out. It wouldn't be pretty, and certainly wouldn't win any races, but I think that's about the smoothest you could do a jibe on auto. In reality, I'd probably do a "chicken jibe"
Single Handed Jibe
In my Beneteau 373, when winds are above about 15 kts it is hard to manage a safe jibe by myself. Herb is correct that bringing the boom in towards the middle is much safer and prevents undo stress on the rig, but its hard work doing all that cranking with the sail loaded up. A slow but safe alternative is the 270 degree tack. Instead of jibing, just bring the boat up to the wind, through and around to a deep reach on the other side. The boom can be easily controlled, the jib will slide naturally over to the new leeward side and there is no stress on the rig. Best of all, you can do this easily by yourself from the cockpit since you only have to deal with the jib sheets and the wheel. It won't win any races, but it also won't kill someone with a boom flying across the cockpit at 100 mph.
In my Beneteau 373, when winds are above about 15 kts it is hard to manage a safe jibe by myself. Herb is correct that bringing the boom in towards the middle is much safer and prevents undo stress on the rig, but its hard work doing all that cranking with the sail loaded up. A slow but safe alternative is the 270 degree tack. Instead of jibing, just bring the boat up to the wind, through and around to a deep reach on the other side. The boom can be easily controlled, the jib will slide naturally over to the new leeward side and there is no stress on the rig. Best of all, you can do this easily by yourself from the cockpit since you only have to deal with the jib sheets and the wheel. It won't win any races, but it also won't kill someone with a boom flying across the cockpit at 100 mph.
Never thought of a 270 tack
but it sure sounds a lot easier. Might confuse any power boat in the area, but I am not in any hurry. I just love the feel of approaching hull speed with a 15-20 heel and the only sound is the shushing of the water against the hull and some saltwater spray on my face. Thats when I feel attuned with mother nature.
but it sure sounds a lot easier. Might confuse any power boat in the area, but I am not in any hurry. I just love the feel of approaching hull speed with a 15-20 heel and the only sound is the shushing of the water against the hull and some saltwater spray on my face. Thats when I feel attuned with mother nature.
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