Trying to move lines aft so I can sail our Hunter 26' alone. Looking at installing Spin Lock PX rope clutches for jib sheets. One of my concerns is how to properly take the sheets over the cabin area then down to the aft cockpit area. Does installing a second stantion with the eye for the sheet make any sense. That would eliminate using the winch but I am not sure how much a winch can be used when sailing alone. We are going to install a head sail furler over the winter. Thanks for the help. Sincerely, Monte Brown
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No need to move aft.
I single hand all the time. I happen to have a wheel on my 1997 H26 but the same applys with a tiller. All you have to do is have a tiller tammer or wheel lock to hold your course while you ajust the jib or any other lines or sheets. It only takde a few seconds, so the boat will go along just fine, as you trim her up. I go to the cabin top to reef the main, as well. All you need to invest in is a tiller tammer. About 20 bucks. Good sailing!!
I single hand all the time. I happen to have a wheel on my 1997 H26 but the same applys with a tiller. All you have to do is have a tiller tammer or wheel lock to hold your course while you ajust the jib or any other lines or sheets. It only takde a few seconds, so the boat will go along just fine, as you trim her up. I go to the cabin top to reef the main, as well. All you need to invest in is a tiller tammer. About 20 bucks. Good sailing!!
Spinlock PX...
...work great! Just installed mine yesterday; drilled and tapped into the same backing plate where the jam cleats were. I used the optional wedges, and mounted them as far aft as I could while still covering the forward hole for the original cleat. My jib sheets are long enough to reach the sternrail seats, and I was able to tack singlehanded from there without getting up. I have a tiller with a telescoping extension, but I would think a wheel would work as well. I rarely used my winches for the jibsheets before, and now they are even more useless. Trimming with the PX's is simple; To ease, jerk up on the line to release it; to trim in, just pull: it locks automatically. If you're well aft in the cockpit you might have to stand to release the clutch, especially if you're on the opposite side of the boat.
...work great! Just installed mine yesterday; drilled and tapped into the same backing plate where the jam cleats were. I used the optional wedges, and mounted them as far aft as I could while still covering the forward hole for the original cleat. My jib sheets are long enough to reach the sternrail seats, and I was able to tack singlehanded from there without getting up. I have a tiller with a telescoping extension, but I would think a wheel would work as well. I rarely used my winches for the jibsheets before, and now they are even more useless. Trimming with the PX's is simple; To ease, jerk up on the line to release it; to trim in, just pull: it locks automatically. If you're well aft in the cockpit you might have to stand to release the clutch, especially if you're on the opposite side of the boat.
Tom is on the money
I recommend what Tom has done as I have installed many of those critt3ers. Crazy Dave Condon
I recommend what Tom has done as I have installed many of those critt3ers. Crazy Dave Condon
Nevermind
Nevermind as Emily Latella would say. I was brain dead with that last message, but have regained some measure of life. For some reason I was thinking of the clutches already on the boat and not the cleats. Sorry. But, this was a day that I spilled oil all over myself while trying simply to add a quart of oil into my car, so . . . Michael
Nevermind as Emily Latella would say. I was brain dead with that last message, but have regained some measure of life. For some reason I was thinking of the clutches already on the boat and not the cleats. Sorry. But, this was a day that I spilled oil all over myself while trying simply to add a quart of oil into my car, so . . . Michael
agree with Tom but I would instal the rope...
...clutches foward of the winches so they can still be used. Had the opertunity to use the configuration on a fixed keel 260 and it worked well. alan.
...clutches foward of the winches so they can still be used. Had the opertunity to use the configuration on a fixed keel 260 and it worked well. alan.
reefing from cockpit
Once you've added the roloer furling, you freed up jib haylard can be run down to a block at the mast base and then up to the reef loop on the main. Also the leech reefing line coming out the front of the boom can be run down with another block at the mast base and run back via the unused horizontal block on the starboard side. With this configuration you can easily reef without going up on the deck. I've done this on our 2001 H260, I imagine it can be set up on older models...
Once you've added the roloer furling, you freed up jib haylard can be run down to a block at the mast base and then up to the reef loop on the main. Also the leech reefing line coming out the front of the boom can be run down with another block at the mast base and run back via the unused horizontal block on the starboard side. With this configuration you can easily reef without going up on the deck. I've done this on our 2001 H260, I imagine it can be set up on older models...
I'm not sure I agree with reefing from the cockpit
Call me overly cautious if you will, but I take reefing very seriously. As a result, I see several drawbacks with reefing from the cockpit with two lines as suggested. For this method to work, the topping lift also has to be run back to the cockpit, or a solid vang has to be fitted. Otherwise the boom will fall into the cockpit when the main halyard is eased to reduce sail area. The two-line approach relies entirely on the integrity of the reef lines. If either of these lines breaks inside the mast or boom (which of course can only happen while you're reefed) then you'll lose the reef just when you need it most. At this point, your only choice may be to drop the main completely. The other option is to leave the cockpit and wrestle the main back under control, which I wouldn't suggest to anyone who wasn't used to leaving the cockpit in deteriorating weather. To be properly reefed, the reef cringle at the luff of the main must be slipped over the ram's horn. Since you have to be at the mast to do this (and work the topping lift), you may as well reef the sail from there. Practice builds confidence and speed, which come in handy when you really need them. Besides, you really shouldn't wait for conditions to deteriorate before starting to reef. I don't rely 100% on the reefing line in the boom. Once the reef is tied in, I run a short piece of line through the leech cringle and tie it down to the boom, then I ease the reefing line a hair. That way, the second line takes all the strain. If it wears or breaks, the reefing line will hold the reef securely in place until I can replace the damaged line. Just some food for thought. Peter H23 "Raven"
Call me overly cautious if you will, but I take reefing very seriously. As a result, I see several drawbacks with reefing from the cockpit with two lines as suggested. For this method to work, the topping lift also has to be run back to the cockpit, or a solid vang has to be fitted. Otherwise the boom will fall into the cockpit when the main halyard is eased to reduce sail area. The two-line approach relies entirely on the integrity of the reef lines. If either of these lines breaks inside the mast or boom (which of course can only happen while you're reefed) then you'll lose the reef just when you need it most. At this point, your only choice may be to drop the main completely. The other option is to leave the cockpit and wrestle the main back under control, which I wouldn't suggest to anyone who wasn't used to leaving the cockpit in deteriorating weather. To be properly reefed, the reef cringle at the luff of the main must be slipped over the ram's horn. Since you have to be at the mast to do this (and work the topping lift), you may as well reef the sail from there. Practice builds confidence and speed, which come in handy when you really need them. Besides, you really shouldn't wait for conditions to deteriorate before starting to reef. I don't rely 100% on the reefing line in the boom. Once the reef is tied in, I run a short piece of line through the leech cringle and tie it down to the boom, then I ease the reefing line a hair. That way, the second line takes all the strain. If it wears or breaks, the reefing line will hold the reef securely in place until I can replace the damaged line. Just some food for thought. Peter H23 "Raven"
I Dunno, Peter, Maybe You Are Cautious
..but I once converted a 26' T-Bird to single line reefing and it worked just great for me, and saved many a trip forward. I also had a 32 Vision for nine years and now a 40.5, both with single-line slab reefing, and I'll take it any day. Having said that, it is more stuff going on and potential for jamming, etc. The prior owner of my boat had preferred the traditional reef rig and modified it accordingly. I restored it to single. Dealer's choice! Rick D.
..but I once converted a 26' T-Bird to single line reefing and it worked just great for me, and saved many a trip forward. I also had a 32 Vision for nine years and now a 40.5, both with single-line slab reefing, and I'll take it any day. Having said that, it is more stuff going on and potential for jamming, etc. The prior owner of my boat had preferred the traditional reef rig and modified it accordingly. I restored it to single. Dealer's choice! Rick D.
Guilty as charged, Rick
However, rather than holding me back, caution allows me to proceed with confidence when things turn sour, because I know I'm prepared. I'm a big believer in John Vigor's "black box" principle. Peter H23 "Raven"
However, rather than holding me back, caution allows me to proceed with confidence when things turn sour, because I know I'm prepared. I'm a big believer in John Vigor's "black box" principle. Peter H23 "Raven"
nonsense!
Double-line reefing systems have been used for years on offshore boats. If you're that concerned about the lines actually parting, buy spectra or something similar. The blocks will pull out of the deck before that line breaks. I'll bet a a lot more people have been injured or lost walking around on the foredeck in bad weather than have ever been inconvenienced by a parting reef line. Reef from the cockpit.
Double-line reefing systems have been used for years on offshore boats. If you're that concerned about the lines actually parting, buy spectra or something similar. The blocks will pull out of the deck before that line breaks. I'll bet a a lot more people have been injured or lost walking around on the foredeck in bad weather than have ever been inconvenienced by a parting reef line. Reef from the cockpit.
reefing is a serious thing
Peter, I think we all take reefing seriously. I've used this method numerous times without having to touch my topping lift that runs to the mast end of the boom. The way I have my boat rigged, I spincleat the jib haylard so that the reef cringle stays right where it needs to be (level with the ram's horn). I feel that the likelyhood of my jib haylard or my reefing line breaking is very very low. I also tie down the reef cringle on the leech to the boom. That's a great point you made in this regard!
Peter, I think we all take reefing seriously. I've used this method numerous times without having to touch my topping lift that runs to the mast end of the boom. The way I have my boat rigged, I spincleat the jib haylard so that the reef cringle stays right where it needs to be (level with the ram's horn). I feel that the likelyhood of my jib haylard or my reefing line breaking is very very low. I also tie down the reef cringle on the leech to the boom. That's a great point you made in this regard!
Hey Al
Reefing is definitely serious business. I lost a reef once (the line in the boom broke) and it was no joke. Also, bluewater sailing on larger boats over the years has definitely made me more conservative than a 23 ft Hunter might ordinarily warrant. I agree that leading lines back to the cockpit offers significant safety advantages. I was just pointing out that this can create a false sense of security for less-experienced sailors because there are more things that can jam or break, and being forced to go forward to fix a problem when you're not used to being out of the cockpit can be dangerous, especially in bad weather. Of course, with proper maintenance these kinds of problems can be avoided. I was also thinking...rather than using the jib halyard as a reefing line (which goes up the mast and back down to the turning block at the base of the mast before going back up to the reef cringle), how about running a line (not the halyard) from the rope clutch on the cabin top to the turning block at the mast base and up to the cringle (like a cunningham)? Also, I'm no expert on roller furling but how's the upper swivel kept aloft without a jib halyard? Peter H23 "Raven"
Reefing is definitely serious business. I lost a reef once (the line in the boom broke) and it was no joke. Also, bluewater sailing on larger boats over the years has definitely made me more conservative than a 23 ft Hunter might ordinarily warrant. I agree that leading lines back to the cockpit offers significant safety advantages. I was just pointing out that this can create a false sense of security for less-experienced sailors because there are more things that can jam or break, and being forced to go forward to fix a problem when you're not used to being out of the cockpit can be dangerous, especially in bad weather. Of course, with proper maintenance these kinds of problems can be avoided. I was also thinking...rather than using the jib halyard as a reefing line (which goes up the mast and back down to the turning block at the base of the mast before going back up to the reef cringle), how about running a line (not the halyard) from the rope clutch on the cabin top to the turning block at the mast base and up to the cringle (like a cunningham)? Also, I'm no expert on roller furling but how's the upper swivel kept aloft without a jib halyard? Peter H23 "Raven"
Peter...
...I like the idea for the forward reef control line. It could also be done that way by mounting a block at the base of the mast. As to the jib halyard, I suspect the roller reefer is a CDI, which has its own internal halyard. Many trailer sailors use this system so they can leave the jib on the foil while trailering.
...I like the idea for the forward reef control line. It could also be done that way by mounting a block at the base of the mast. As to the jib halyard, I suspect the roller reefer is a CDI, which has its own internal halyard. Many trailer sailors use this system so they can leave the jib on the foil while trailering.
Luff reef line...
My jib haylard is freed up cause my boat came with a CDI furler that, as Tom pointed out, has an internal haylard. I use this line for reefing the main as described in a previous post for a couple of reasons; it was not being used for anything, it strong enough for the task at hand, and the "blocks/pulleys" at the top of the mast and the one I placed on the mast foot allow for easier tensioning. If I didn't have this line available, I would have done it as Peter and Tom suggest.
My jib haylard is freed up cause my boat came with a CDI furler that, as Tom pointed out, has an internal haylard. I use this line for reefing the main as described in a previous post for a couple of reasons; it was not being used for anything, it strong enough for the task at hand, and the "blocks/pulleys" at the top of the mast and the one I placed on the mast foot allow for easier tensioning. If I didn't have this line available, I would have done it as Peter and Tom suggest.
No wonder CDI furlers are so popular
I don't trailer my boat all that much and I still hank my sails on the old-fashioned way so I've never had the opportunity to look at the CDI furler up close. However I've heard people speak very highly of it. Peter H23 "Raven"
I don't trailer my boat all that much and I still hank my sails on the old-fashioned way so I've never had the opportunity to look at the CDI furler up close. However I've heard people speak very highly of it. Peter H23 "Raven"
Any pics?
I have a freed up halyard and wondered if anyone had any pictures of the setup for reefing described here? thanks so much David (sea monkeys)
I have a freed up halyard and wondered if anyone had any pictures of the setup for reefing described here? thanks so much David (sea monkeys)
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