Does anyone have usable ideas on docking a Catalina 30 single-handed? I have a couple of things that work at my slip, but would like to find out what other folks do - thanks, BILL
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David Foster
Springline lasso
We have a spring line with a big (3 foot) loop on one end, and a splice on the other. I think it's a 25 foot line, but runs from a cleat at the center of the boat to a couple of feet forward of the stern when under tension. Then we have a standard aluminum telescoping boathook with two stiff rubber loops (1/2 inch wide, 1/2 inch inner diameter) that are cut so you can snap the rope into them. They are about 15 inches apart at the end of the boathook. The method requires a post, or cleat at the stern end of the dock. I make the approach at low speed, drop the loop over the cleat (or post) slowing the boat so that it approaches a stop when the line takes the strain. Then it's forward at medium low rpms on the engine. The Lillie stops on the line, and I can move out from the pier/dock be moving the toller away from the dock, and toward it by moving the tiller toward the dock. I get a stern line on the cleat. settle everything down, and then cut the engine, and step ashore with the bowline in hand. Once the bowline is fast, I'm at my liesure to complete the mooring. This is our standard technique with crew, or single handed, and it has worked just fine in 5 or 6 different marinas on Lake Erie.
We have a spring line with a big (3 foot) loop on one end, and a splice on the other. I think it's a 25 foot line, but runs from a cleat at the center of the boat to a couple of feet forward of the stern when under tension. Then we have a standard aluminum telescoping boathook with two stiff rubber loops (1/2 inch wide, 1/2 inch inner diameter) that are cut so you can snap the rope into them. They are about 15 inches apart at the end of the boathook. The method requires a post, or cleat at the stern end of the dock. I make the approach at low speed, drop the loop over the cleat (or post) slowing the boat so that it approaches a stop when the line takes the strain. Then it's forward at medium low rpms on the engine. The Lillie stops on the line, and I can move out from the pier/dock be moving the toller away from the dock, and toward it by moving the tiller toward the dock. I get a stern line on the cleat. settle everything down, and then cut the engine, and step ashore with the bowline in hand. Once the bowline is fast, I'm at my liesure to complete the mooring. This is our standard technique with crew, or single handed, and it has worked just fine in 5 or 6 different marinas on Lake Erie.
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Don Alexander
Croc Catcher
Hi Bill, I sail my 376 single handed most of the time. To come alongside a pontoon I have a loop in the end of a warp from which I previously removed 3' of the inner and fed a wire coathanger (straightened out) up inside the rope. The ends of the coathanger emerge from the rope and are then twisted together. The rope is tied into a bowline. Next I took a garden cane about 5' long and pushed the twisted wire into the end of the cane. The finished item looks like a kids fishing net, though Florida folks will recognise it as more like a crocodile catcher! It only takes about an hour to make and uses an old genoa sheet. In use I feed the warp through the base of the middle stanchion then back to a winch and thence to my hand at the steering console. Coming alongside with three fenders out I slip the loop over the middle pontoon cleat and pull the cane off. Nip back to the wheel and pull in all slack. Then, by judicious use of fwd and reverse, depending on wind and current, I pull the rope and she comes alongside. Secure the warp on the winch, leave the engine in gear and step ashore to make fast the shore lines. I can do this single handed with 20 knots blowing the boat off or with two knots of tide from ASTERN. Bad seamanship I know but I prefer to have the boat facing south. Sounds dodgy but it never seems to fail. Try it and see. Christmas tidings to all.
Hi Bill, I sail my 376 single handed most of the time. To come alongside a pontoon I have a loop in the end of a warp from which I previously removed 3' of the inner and fed a wire coathanger (straightened out) up inside the rope. The ends of the coathanger emerge from the rope and are then twisted together. The rope is tied into a bowline. Next I took a garden cane about 5' long and pushed the twisted wire into the end of the cane. The finished item looks like a kids fishing net, though Florida folks will recognise it as more like a crocodile catcher! It only takes about an hour to make and uses an old genoa sheet. In use I feed the warp through the base of the middle stanchion then back to a winch and thence to my hand at the steering console. Coming alongside with three fenders out I slip the loop over the middle pontoon cleat and pull the cane off. Nip back to the wheel and pull in all slack. Then, by judicious use of fwd and reverse, depending on wind and current, I pull the rope and she comes alongside. Secure the warp on the winch, leave the engine in gear and step ashore to make fast the shore lines. I can do this single handed with 20 knots blowing the boat off or with two knots of tide from ASTERN. Bad seamanship I know but I prefer to have the boat facing south. Sounds dodgy but it never seems to fail. Try it and see. Christmas tidings to all.
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Don Alexander
Further to my last
The croc catcher used to save all manner of domestic strife when 'she who must be obeyed' decided to jump on to the pontoon - or not as the situation evolved. Now your lady can occupy her ideal role and just look pretty without becoming involved in the process of mooring. They seem to prefer this on my boat as it is easier on their eardrums.
The croc catcher used to save all manner of domestic strife when 'she who must be obeyed' decided to jump on to the pontoon - or not as the situation evolved. Now your lady can occupy her ideal role and just look pretty without becoming involved in the process of mooring. They seem to prefer this on my boat as it is easier on their eardrums.
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Justin - O'day Owners' Web
Simple Long Bow Line
I simply secure a line to the cleat in the center of my foredeck and run it our through the bow chock and aft outside of lifelines etc. I run a stern line from the stern cleat around pulpit etc. I leave both coiled by the lifeline gate. On calm days, I simply run the boat along side the dock, and step off with both lines. I usually time it right so that I get the bow line on a cleat on the dock before I hit the guy in front of me. On windier days, I use my gaf to lay the loop in the bow line over the cleat, then put the boat back in gear with the tiller hard to the dock, and step off and secure the stern. Then I cut the engine and do the rest of the lines up. In the interest of being clean on the dock, the bowline is actually two lines, one splice appropriately to be a spring and one that attaches to that one with a snapshackle, so the extra length isn't messy. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
I simply secure a line to the cleat in the center of my foredeck and run it our through the bow chock and aft outside of lifelines etc. I run a stern line from the stern cleat around pulpit etc. I leave both coiled by the lifeline gate. On calm days, I simply run the boat along side the dock, and step off with both lines. I usually time it right so that I get the bow line on a cleat on the dock before I hit the guy in front of me. On windier days, I use my gaf to lay the loop in the bow line over the cleat, then put the boat back in gear with the tiller hard to the dock, and step off and secure the stern. Then I cut the engine and do the rest of the lines up. In the interest of being clean on the dock, the bowline is actually two lines, one splice appropriately to be a spring and one that attaches to that one with a snapshackle, so the extra length isn't messy. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
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Les Murray
I just step off
When docking a Cat 34, I would come into the slip, hit reverse until the boat came to a stop (just a quick bit of reverse thrust), and step off and tie off the aft line. Never had any problems. Of course this was in San Diego bay at a protected marina. Les Murray C36 Ceilidh
When docking a Cat 34, I would come into the slip, hit reverse until the boat came to a stop (just a quick bit of reverse thrust), and step off and tie off the aft line. Never had any problems. Of course this was in San Diego bay at a protected marina. Les Murray C36 Ceilidh
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Jim Cook
This beginner uses a cradle!
A good friend (who is moored next to me) suggested making a cradle. I have ropes crossing from rear pilings to the opposite-side front pilings (the front pilings are closer together so the lines cross about 5-7 feet from the dock and a knot is tied where they cross). I just ease in and the cradle correctly guides my bow into the exact position (correct distance from the dock and centered in the slip). I pull the tiller to the dock, step off and tie-up. I can't imagine an easier, more fool-proof method for a novice. Happy Holidays, JimC
A good friend (who is moored next to me) suggested making a cradle. I have ropes crossing from rear pilings to the opposite-side front pilings (the front pilings are closer together so the lines cross about 5-7 feet from the dock and a knot is tied where they cross). I just ease in and the cradle correctly guides my bow into the exact position (correct distance from the dock and centered in the slip). I pull the tiller to the dock, step off and tie-up. I can't imagine an easier, more fool-proof method for a novice. Happy Holidays, JimC
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Robert Moretti
Bill, This was my first season with a c30, and I, too, had to get used to docking it single handed. The biggest problem for me was that my slip required a turn to starboard to enter it, and the pier itself was also on the starboard side. So, the usual advice that others give ("simply put the engine in reverse until the boat stops") did not work, because of the prop walk that pulls the stern to port when in reverse. Reversing the engine with enough RPM's to stop the boat resulted in the stern of the boat pulling away from the pier, making it impossible for me to get off, and threatening my neighbor's boat on my port side. Here's what worked: Enter the slip VERY slowly, well under 1 knot of speed. Make several changes from forward to neutral to reverse and back again to keep the boat barely moving forward. Have a line rigged to a midship cleat. It should be thin enough to stretch a bit, and of an exact length to stop the boat short of hitting the pier, once the line is looped over the sternmost cleat on the dock. As the boat glides up next to the slip pier, put the engine in neutral, grab the line, move forward to near mid-ship, and get off the boat at the sternmost portion of the slip's pier. Loop the pre-rigged line over the sternmost cleat on the pier. The line will stop the boat without it hitting anything. If you also have your bow and stern lines easily in reach, you can quickly fasten either the bow or the stern (whichever is farthest out from the pier) to its respective cleat. Then fasten the other line. Done! This has worked so well for me that observers are often surprised to see it done. Bob Moretti r-moretti@northwestern.edu
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Tom Ehmke
question for Justin
Justin, My method is very similar to yours. I have the bow spring line secured to a cleat at the bow, port or starboard, depending on my approach and led outside the lifelines aft to the cockpit. My stern line is secured to the cleat on the appropriate side of the cockpit so as to match the bow spring line, and like you I usually approach, step off the boat onto the dock. I then pull the boat into the slip using both lines and usually wrap the bow spring around a post to stop the forward motion of the boat. My question is "What about bigger boats?" Mine is a 272 and I feel comfortable muscling the boat into place under most conditions. What would you do if yours was a bigger boat, say a 30'-34' boat? As a sidelight to this discussion, I set up my permanent bow, stern, and spring lines at the slip. Once I have the boat temporarily tied off at the slip, I fasten the (properly adjusted) permanent lines to the boat and remove the temporary lines to the locker for the next trip.
Justin, My method is very similar to yours. I have the bow spring line secured to a cleat at the bow, port or starboard, depending on my approach and led outside the lifelines aft to the cockpit. My stern line is secured to the cleat on the appropriate side of the cockpit so as to match the bow spring line, and like you I usually approach, step off the boat onto the dock. I then pull the boat into the slip using both lines and usually wrap the bow spring around a post to stop the forward motion of the boat. My question is "What about bigger boats?" Mine is a 272 and I feel comfortable muscling the boat into place under most conditions. What would you do if yours was a bigger boat, say a 30'-34' boat? As a sidelight to this discussion, I set up my permanent bow, stern, and spring lines at the slip. Once I have the boat temporarily tied off at the slip, I fasten the (properly adjusted) permanent lines to the boat and remove the temporary lines to the locker for the next trip.
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Brian Pickton
Single handed docking a larger boat
Dec.12, 2000 Dear Bill, It would be helpful to me in formulating a response to know exactly what your docking situation is now and what technique you are using. I note that Bill in his post is using a variation on setting up a breast line, Bob is effectively using a spring line and Jim recommends a cradle. All of these are good ideas for their situation, but what's yours? To answer Tom's query about docking a bigger boat single handed, I use this technique on The Legend, which is a Beneteau F456, and is 46' 7" LOA and displaces about 14 tonnes in its present cruising configuration. 1) Size up the situation, in particular which way are the wind and tide running and which side will I dock on? ( In Point Roberts where we previously kept the boat docking involved a 90° turn to port followed immediately by a 90° turn to starboard, docking with the finger pier to port and another boat to starboard. There was not a lot of room for error.) 2) Rig fenders. More is better. Fenders don't do any good sitting in a locker. I always kept one fender loose and handy to use as a rover if things went sideways. 3) Rig all dock lines, bringing the forward spring line and aft spring line outside the lifelines to the departure point, ready for immediate use. We always have a breast line rigged from the center cleat of the boat, and it gets belayed first. 4) Approach the dock at the slowest possible speed at which directional control can be maintained. Sail boats with their big rudders have a definite advantage over power boats in this department. Where possible I like to approach at a slight angle, using the boats prop wash to port in reverse to complete the lineup. On a starboard approach this means using the tiller to turn the boat at the last moment away from the dock and the prop wash to stop the boat and the turn just as it comes along side. On a port approach less tiller is required. I am frequently in nuetral on the approach and apply reverse to slow the boat further as I come in. I will jockey the transmisssion between forward and reverse at low speed to use the prop wash to help line up. The trick is not to loose all way and get blown off. When wind and tide are adverse judicious use of throttle and transmission are required. In teaching sailing I found that the number one error committed in docking is approaching the dock too fast. Remember the object of the exercise is to bring the boat to a dead stop before you step off the boat, not after. Even with wind and tide causing the boat to move if you bring it to a complete stop before you step off you will have enough time to belay the breast line and the most crucial spring line quickly and then can finish the job at leisure. 5) The first line that should be belayed is always the breast line, lead from the center cleat of the boat to the nearest dock cleat. When all way is taken off the boat the breast line keeps the boat next to the dock and you can belay spring lines to stop the bow and stern from swinging out to the same cleat as the breast line initially. Whether it is a bow spring line or a stern spring line that is belayed first depends on which way the wind and tide are running. Obviously use the one that counters the motion first. The usual problem encountered with this technique is that the the dock cleat may not be conveniently placed immediately adjacent to the breast cleat. The breast line winds up acting as a short spring. In that case I still belay it first but take the spring line to the dock cleat that will do the most good immediately. Often that is the same dock cleat as the brest line, but not always. If wind and tide are on the bow that means the stern spring gets tied after the breast line and vice versa if the "push" is from the stern. I must stress that every single hander I have met with a boat over 40 feet long prefers to attach the breast line first. Having said that, I have on occasion when docking completely under sail used a forward spring line to take the final way off the boat by catching two horns on a cleat or taking a single wrap around a piling and using the friction to stop the boat's forward motion. I have seldom found it necessary to do this when under motor however. Once the breast line and the most crucial spring line are attached the rest can usually proceed at leisure. I do not use the engine to move the boat once the first two lines are belayed to the pier because I have found that even She Who Must Be Obeyed can usually muscle The Legend around. If your habitual docking pier does not have a cleat that lines up conveniently with the breast cleat of the boat I would seriously suggest adding one. They are a great convenience, especially when single handed. With all of that said, there is no answer that is entirely correct in every situation without fail, all of the time. Different docking situations may require different technigues. Obviously using a breast line will not work where you are docking bow -to with the stern tied off to posts, for example. Let's not forget that ultimately the correct answer is not a dogmatic one but rather, what works for you is in fact what works for you, and it pays to be flexible. Hope this is of some help. Brian Pickton@BeneteauOwners.net Aboard The Legend, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
Dec.12, 2000 Dear Bill, It would be helpful to me in formulating a response to know exactly what your docking situation is now and what technique you are using. I note that Bill in his post is using a variation on setting up a breast line, Bob is effectively using a spring line and Jim recommends a cradle. All of these are good ideas for their situation, but what's yours? To answer Tom's query about docking a bigger boat single handed, I use this technique on The Legend, which is a Beneteau F456, and is 46' 7" LOA and displaces about 14 tonnes in its present cruising configuration. 1) Size up the situation, in particular which way are the wind and tide running and which side will I dock on? ( In Point Roberts where we previously kept the boat docking involved a 90° turn to port followed immediately by a 90° turn to starboard, docking with the finger pier to port and another boat to starboard. There was not a lot of room for error.) 2) Rig fenders. More is better. Fenders don't do any good sitting in a locker. I always kept one fender loose and handy to use as a rover if things went sideways. 3) Rig all dock lines, bringing the forward spring line and aft spring line outside the lifelines to the departure point, ready for immediate use. We always have a breast line rigged from the center cleat of the boat, and it gets belayed first. 4) Approach the dock at the slowest possible speed at which directional control can be maintained. Sail boats with their big rudders have a definite advantage over power boats in this department. Where possible I like to approach at a slight angle, using the boats prop wash to port in reverse to complete the lineup. On a starboard approach this means using the tiller to turn the boat at the last moment away from the dock and the prop wash to stop the boat and the turn just as it comes along side. On a port approach less tiller is required. I am frequently in nuetral on the approach and apply reverse to slow the boat further as I come in. I will jockey the transmisssion between forward and reverse at low speed to use the prop wash to help line up. The trick is not to loose all way and get blown off. When wind and tide are adverse judicious use of throttle and transmission are required. In teaching sailing I found that the number one error committed in docking is approaching the dock too fast. Remember the object of the exercise is to bring the boat to a dead stop before you step off the boat, not after. Even with wind and tide causing the boat to move if you bring it to a complete stop before you step off you will have enough time to belay the breast line and the most crucial spring line quickly and then can finish the job at leisure. 5) The first line that should be belayed is always the breast line, lead from the center cleat of the boat to the nearest dock cleat. When all way is taken off the boat the breast line keeps the boat next to the dock and you can belay spring lines to stop the bow and stern from swinging out to the same cleat as the breast line initially. Whether it is a bow spring line or a stern spring line that is belayed first depends on which way the wind and tide are running. Obviously use the one that counters the motion first. The usual problem encountered with this technique is that the the dock cleat may not be conveniently placed immediately adjacent to the breast cleat. The breast line winds up acting as a short spring. In that case I still belay it first but take the spring line to the dock cleat that will do the most good immediately. Often that is the same dock cleat as the brest line, but not always. If wind and tide are on the bow that means the stern spring gets tied after the breast line and vice versa if the "push" is from the stern. I must stress that every single hander I have met with a boat over 40 feet long prefers to attach the breast line first. Having said that, I have on occasion when docking completely under sail used a forward spring line to take the final way off the boat by catching two horns on a cleat or taking a single wrap around a piling and using the friction to stop the boat's forward motion. I have seldom found it necessary to do this when under motor however. Once the breast line and the most crucial spring line are attached the rest can usually proceed at leisure. I do not use the engine to move the boat once the first two lines are belayed to the pier because I have found that even She Who Must Be Obeyed can usually muscle The Legend around. If your habitual docking pier does not have a cleat that lines up conveniently with the breast cleat of the boat I would seriously suggest adding one. They are a great convenience, especially when single handed. With all of that said, there is no answer that is entirely correct in every situation without fail, all of the time. Different docking situations may require different technigues. Obviously using a breast line will not work where you are docking bow -to with the stern tied off to posts, for example. Let's not forget that ultimately the correct answer is not a dogmatic one but rather, what works for you is in fact what works for you, and it pays to be flexible. Hope this is of some help. Brian Pickton@BeneteauOwners.net Aboard The Legend, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
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R.W.Landau
boat control
One of the biggest problems with docking a boat that I have seen and done, is basic boat control. For instance, if the boat is moving forward with right rudder and the boat is turning right. If you want to bring the stern of the boat to the port, put the boat in reverse, wait till all way is off, then turn the rudder. If the boat is still moving forward the bow will move to port. I say this not to experienced sailors but to new found sailors that have moved from power boats (outboards)where the technique is to turn the motor and power into place. It won't work on a sail boat. merry Christmas r.w.landau
One of the biggest problems with docking a boat that I have seen and done, is basic boat control. For instance, if the boat is moving forward with right rudder and the boat is turning right. If you want to bring the stern of the boat to the port, put the boat in reverse, wait till all way is off, then turn the rudder. If the boat is still moving forward the bow will move to port. I say this not to experienced sailors but to new found sailors that have moved from power boats (outboards)where the technique is to turn the motor and power into place. It won't work on a sail boat. merry Christmas r.w.landau
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Alfred
boat control
R.W.Landau wrote an interesting response, but I'm not sure I understand... Could you explain again, what if the rudder was in the same starting position and I wanted the stern to go to starboard? I have a lot of turning to port when I reverse, it would be great to be able to counteract that some how.. Any tips?? -Alf.
R.W.Landau wrote an interesting response, but I'm not sure I understand... Could you explain again, what if the rudder was in the same starting position and I wanted the stern to go to starboard? I have a lot of turning to port when I reverse, it would be great to be able to counteract that some how.. Any tips?? -Alf.
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Rob Rich
Great Responses
Bill - First off - you have a wealth of responses. If you do nothing else, please, go out with a friend and practice singlehanded docking in different positions. Dock at least 20 times without crew assistance before you consider doing it yourself. Practice is the only way you will master this technique. Also - I didn't hear anyone mention this, but if someone is on the dock - ask for assistance. I have docked my boat singlehanded more times than I can count, but never if one of my neighbors or harbor hands is around. I will always ask for help if it is available - it makes everyone feel better. Brian Pickton's response has the most info in it - he seems to have mastered docking a very large boat, and that's no easy task. I'll give you two simple pointers. First, directional control and speed will be the single most important thing that you have to master. Without firm control of the vessel at low speed, you will (regardless of lines and their positions) hit something. Factors that should be considered when you approach a dock include wind direction and speed, current, tide, dock configuration, and you boat's steerage speed. In my C-27, I like to approach at 2 mph in neutral, and then drop into reverse to slow to a stop. I advocate dropping into reverse in advance, rather than slamming on reverse with a high throttle setting. Slamming into reverse will only aggrivate prop walk. Secondly, the breast line is the way to go. Make it fast on your mid-ship cleat and hold it firmly as you jump onto the dock. Secure it quickly to the cleat furtherst from the bow. Of course, you will need your fenders out for this excercise. That's it bud. I can't advocate practice and speed enough. Boats are like airplanes - when they go too slow, they lose control and crash. The good news is, your boat won't crash as hard as an airplane. Know your steerage speed, stay slightly above it, and steer well. Soon people will be asking you how you learned to dock so well singlehanded. Rob
Bill - First off - you have a wealth of responses. If you do nothing else, please, go out with a friend and practice singlehanded docking in different positions. Dock at least 20 times without crew assistance before you consider doing it yourself. Practice is the only way you will master this technique. Also - I didn't hear anyone mention this, but if someone is on the dock - ask for assistance. I have docked my boat singlehanded more times than I can count, but never if one of my neighbors or harbor hands is around. I will always ask for help if it is available - it makes everyone feel better. Brian Pickton's response has the most info in it - he seems to have mastered docking a very large boat, and that's no easy task. I'll give you two simple pointers. First, directional control and speed will be the single most important thing that you have to master. Without firm control of the vessel at low speed, you will (regardless of lines and their positions) hit something. Factors that should be considered when you approach a dock include wind direction and speed, current, tide, dock configuration, and you boat's steerage speed. In my C-27, I like to approach at 2 mph in neutral, and then drop into reverse to slow to a stop. I advocate dropping into reverse in advance, rather than slamming on reverse with a high throttle setting. Slamming into reverse will only aggrivate prop walk. Secondly, the breast line is the way to go. Make it fast on your mid-ship cleat and hold it firmly as you jump onto the dock. Secure it quickly to the cleat furtherst from the bow. Of course, you will need your fenders out for this excercise. That's it bud. I can't advocate practice and speed enough. Boats are like airplanes - when they go too slow, they lose control and crash. The good news is, your boat won't crash as hard as an airplane. Know your steerage speed, stay slightly above it, and steer well. Soon people will be asking you how you learned to dock so well singlehanded. Rob
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Ron
All by Myselffffff
I tie one end of a long line to the bow of the boat and the other end to the stern. When I get the boat into the slip and step onto the dock I use the line to control both the bow and the stern from one place instead of running back and forth between bow and stern. Be sure the line isn't so long it can drag in the water and hang up. I use this method reguardless of who, if anyone, is at the helm... Good Luck... Ron
I tie one end of a long line to the bow of the boat and the other end to the stern. When I get the boat into the slip and step onto the dock I use the line to control both the bow and the stern from one place instead of running back and forth between bow and stern. Be sure the line isn't so long it can drag in the water and hang up. I use this method reguardless of who, if anyone, is at the helm... Good Luck... Ron
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Charles Duhon
Non-Slip Tips eliminate propwalk!
We had Kilian Propellers in San Leandro Ca. put non-silp tips on our propeller and it really reduced the amount of propwalk in reverse! We had terrible propwalk but now the boat stops on a dime (increased pitch 2 inches) and hardly pulls the stern at all. It's great that the boat goes where the rudder tells it to! Only about $150 ! Highly reccommended!!! Charles & Lynn Duhon "Artistry"
We had Kilian Propellers in San Leandro Ca. put non-silp tips on our propeller and it really reduced the amount of propwalk in reverse! We had terrible propwalk but now the boat stops on a dime (increased pitch 2 inches) and hardly pulls the stern at all. It's great that the boat goes where the rudder tells it to! Only about $150 ! Highly reccommended!!! Charles & Lynn Duhon "Artistry"
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warren feldstein
How about single handed docking stern to?
Any comments here. I have never tried it. Going in forward is pretty straight forward. I would love to hear peoples comments on this approach.
Any comments here. I have never tried it. Going in forward is pretty straight forward. I would love to hear peoples comments on this approach.
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Miles
Stern to is easy...
At least on my 340. I just back all the way down the dock, turn into the slip, and step off the walk-thru transom onto the dock. Cleat a sternline, shut off the engine, and start looking for a beer ;.) The 340 backs very nicely which makes the whole thing possible. With lots of prop walk it might be a different matter...
At least on my 340. I just back all the way down the dock, turn into the slip, and step off the walk-thru transom onto the dock. Cleat a sternline, shut off the engine, and start looking for a beer ;.) The 340 backs very nicely which makes the whole thing possible. With lots of prop walk it might be a different matter...
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Tom Ehmke
Thanks to Brian
The Oday 272 has no midship cleat. I see the track-mounted types in the catalogs. Before I add this piece of hardware, one question. Would securing the breast line at the base of a stanchion work? (Don't tell me I'm cheap, I know that already)
The Oday 272 has no midship cleat. I see the track-mounted types in the catalogs. Before I add this piece of hardware, one question. Would securing the breast line at the base of a stanchion work? (Don't tell me I'm cheap, I know that already)
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John J
Stanchion Base
Stanchions are meant to help keep people on the boat, not hold the boat. In most situations this is probably not an issue, but if you come in hot and have to put undue stress on the stanchion, you may have a problem. If you don't want to buy the cleats, secure a temporaty line around your cabin top winch until you get the rest of the lines secured.
Stanchions are meant to help keep people on the boat, not hold the boat. In most situations this is probably not an issue, but if you come in hot and have to put undue stress on the stanchion, you may have a problem. If you don't want to buy the cleats, secure a temporaty line around your cabin top winch until you get the rest of the lines secured.
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jkleid
single handed- stepping off??
although this is the most commonly described, consider the many dangers that lerk in holding lines and stepping off. I have used, very successfully, a cleat hook (practical Sailer just did a review), which "secures" a line to the dock cleat, through my mid-ship cleat, use a winch if necessary, and pull in the boat to the dock.... no risk to life or limb, and no chance the boat will ever "get away" 9should you accidently slip or fall and let go the line(s). I also put (jamb) an 1.25 I.D. plastic pipe extension -30"on my outboard handle to make it so much easier to coordinate the whole process, after throwing the motor into neutral
although this is the most commonly described, consider the many dangers that lerk in holding lines and stepping off. I have used, very successfully, a cleat hook (practical Sailer just did a review), which "secures" a line to the dock cleat, through my mid-ship cleat, use a winch if necessary, and pull in the boat to the dock.... no risk to life or limb, and no chance the boat will ever "get away" 9should you accidently slip or fall and let go the line(s). I also put (jamb) an 1.25 I.D. plastic pipe extension -30"on my outboard handle to make it so much easier to coordinate the whole process, after throwing the motor into neutral
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