I have a 1983 H34 that I want to sail single handed. I've not done it before and am interested in any suggestions on anchoring. In particular when it comes time to heave the anchor how do I get it aboard while still maintaining control of the boat? I don't think I can motor up on it since I can't pull in the rode from the cockpit. Setting a stern anchor seems more logical since I can control the boat while pulling it back up. What have you done?
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R DEUTSCH
anchor
we have a 450 with a windlass and a remote,this is a worth while investment if you do a lot of anchoring. I dread thinking of going into a marina for I am always doing things myself.I also have the self furling and sail this gal by myself,by the way I am 71 yrs old and this is my 2 nd year sailing. I dont mean to brag but this is something you should set your mind on,it took me awhile so take your time.mcbubba720@aol.com
we have a 450 with a windlass and a remote,this is a worth while investment if you do a lot of anchoring. I dread thinking of going into a marina for I am always doing things myself.I also have the self furling and sail this gal by myself,by the way I am 71 yrs old and this is my 2 nd year sailing. I dont mean to brag but this is something you should set your mind on,it took me awhile so take your time.mcbubba720@aol.com
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Andy Howard
Single hand anchoring
I've used three methods to retrive my anchor when alone, with little or no wind, I just go up front and pull it up. In light wind or current, I will motor forward for a few seconds, shift to nuetral, then go froward to take up slack, repeating until underway. In heavy conditions or crouded anchorages, I run the bitter end back to the cockpit around the sheet whinch and retreave from there. For me the key is to use only a 8 ft chain, that way I can bring the anchor up until its about 4 feet below the surface so I can secure and stow when convienent.
I've used three methods to retrive my anchor when alone, with little or no wind, I just go up front and pull it up. In light wind or current, I will motor forward for a few seconds, shift to nuetral, then go froward to take up slack, repeating until underway. In heavy conditions or crouded anchorages, I run the bitter end back to the cockpit around the sheet whinch and retreave from there. For me the key is to use only a 8 ft chain, that way I can bring the anchor up until its about 4 feet below the surface so I can secure and stow when convienent.
An untested idea, but it sounds good.
I have been working up a redesign of one of my dad's boats and recently came up with what I think is a very good idea for retreiving an anchor by yourself. It just requires the right hardware. 1. Have a decent anchor roller/stowing chock at the bow, into which the anchor will settle without any fuss. (On this boat it goes next to the bowsprit, ala Cherubini 44.) 2. Have some kind of turning block at the foredeck to handle the end of the rode (chain). This could simply be a big block on a bungee cord lying across the foredeck (which could be moved aside later). If you have no chain, or if it's short enough that this turning block can be mounted aft of it (at the front of the cabin?), forget it. 3. Attach several (about 3) snatch or regular blocks along the toerail and lead the anchor line all the way aft to the self-tailing jib winch. 4. Have a cleat there with which you can take the line off the winch whilst sailing. The springline cleat might make it on most boats. 5. Locate the through-deck hawser (if you want one) to dump the slimy anchor rode into the cockpit-seat locker. When bringing up the hook, start the engine, drive forward till the rode goes nearly vertical (as usual), taking up slack with the jibsheet winch (which is right next to you and the most powerful non-motorised thing on the boat). Break it loose. Then drive off (backwards?) trailing the gooky anchor right about at the waterline till the moss clears and then winch it up home onto the roller/chock (as usual). Honestly I do not know why anchoring is always such a fear/hassle/contention for many people. Using logic to think it through and then perfecting a method with practice (not just regular routine, but actual repetitive practice, as in learning to throw a softball, over and over) should result in an acceptable degree of success. If anyone has tried something like this idea, please let me know what you think. As of right now I foresee no hassles with it and am ready to specify the hardware to accommodate this at the builders'. JC 2
I have been working up a redesign of one of my dad's boats and recently came up with what I think is a very good idea for retreiving an anchor by yourself. It just requires the right hardware. 1. Have a decent anchor roller/stowing chock at the bow, into which the anchor will settle without any fuss. (On this boat it goes next to the bowsprit, ala Cherubini 44.) 2. Have some kind of turning block at the foredeck to handle the end of the rode (chain). This could simply be a big block on a bungee cord lying across the foredeck (which could be moved aside later). If you have no chain, or if it's short enough that this turning block can be mounted aft of it (at the front of the cabin?), forget it. 3. Attach several (about 3) snatch or regular blocks along the toerail and lead the anchor line all the way aft to the self-tailing jib winch. 4. Have a cleat there with which you can take the line off the winch whilst sailing. The springline cleat might make it on most boats. 5. Locate the through-deck hawser (if you want one) to dump the slimy anchor rode into the cockpit-seat locker. When bringing up the hook, start the engine, drive forward till the rode goes nearly vertical (as usual), taking up slack with the jibsheet winch (which is right next to you and the most powerful non-motorised thing on the boat). Break it loose. Then drive off (backwards?) trailing the gooky anchor right about at the waterline till the moss clears and then winch it up home onto the roller/chock (as usual). Honestly I do not know why anchoring is always such a fear/hassle/contention for many people. Using logic to think it through and then perfecting a method with practice (not just regular routine, but actual repetitive practice, as in learning to throw a softball, over and over) should result in an acceptable degree of success. If anyone has tried something like this idea, please let me know what you think. As of right now I foresee no hassles with it and am ready to specify the hardware to accommodate this at the builders'. JC 2
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Justin - O'day Owners' Web
I have a great, simple rig.
I have a smaller boat but carry an oversized anchor. This ought to work for an achor appropriate for you 34, but not for a boat that was much bigger. My Claw and its rode live in a canvass sack in the lazarette. When I prepare to anchor I lay the hook and chain on a mat in the cockpit. Then I carry the bag forward outside the lifelines, go under the pulpit, clip into a heavy carabeaner attached to the pulpit above the chocks and back aft to the primary winches. I use a carabeaner at midship to help get a fair lead. Then I just chuck the anchor over the side from the cockpit and lay scope as I back down. To retrieve it I just crank on the primary until the rope to chain shackle is at the forward beaner, then go recover the anchor. It sounded like it would be really cumbersome but it works really well and all it cost was the tote bag - about 5% of a windlass. Those of us doing this on a grad school budget like cheap solutions. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
I have a smaller boat but carry an oversized anchor. This ought to work for an achor appropriate for you 34, but not for a boat that was much bigger. My Claw and its rode live in a canvass sack in the lazarette. When I prepare to anchor I lay the hook and chain on a mat in the cockpit. Then I carry the bag forward outside the lifelines, go under the pulpit, clip into a heavy carabeaner attached to the pulpit above the chocks and back aft to the primary winches. I use a carabeaner at midship to help get a fair lead. Then I just chuck the anchor over the side from the cockpit and lay scope as I back down. To retrieve it I just crank on the primary until the rope to chain shackle is at the forward beaner, then go recover the anchor. It sounded like it would be really cumbersome but it works really well and all it cost was the tote bag - about 5% of a windlass. Those of us doing this on a grad school budget like cheap solutions. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
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Tim Schaaf
What works for me
on my H33, and would probably work on your H34, is a good roller where the anchor lives, a HEAVY pair of gloves and the following procedure: When anchoring, I simply lower the anchor, and then back down to set scope. If the wind or the tide are sufficient, I will lay out all the desired scope before returning to the cockpit. Otherwise, I do it in stages. To retrieve the anchor, I simply open the anchor locker, and SIT on the back edge, with my feet braced on the aft legs of the pulpit. I lean forward and grab the chain or the line with both hands, and then just lean back.The pull is horizontal, not vertical. Up comes a little more than two feet. I lean forward and reposition my hands, and up come two more. This has worked in quite strong wind and current, and I anchor on mostly chain, now 1/4 inch HT, but 5/16 PC, previously. And, I frequently anchor in fifty feet, with my chain and 33 pound Bruce. If you use rode, it HAS to be at least 5/8 inch to get a good grip. Anything smaller makes this routine job pretty difficult. But this rocking forward and backward motion is like rowing, and quite easy and very strong. If I have a problem, such as in breaking out a really stuck anchor, I lead a line back to my mast mounted halyard winch and proceed. If the wind is really high, I put my engine in gear at the lowest idle possible, engage my autopilot and take its remote forward. I don't need the remote to control the direction while raising the anchor. The engine takes the load off the rode, but there is enough to keep the boat going straight. But, once the anchor is off the bottom (remember, I might be in 50 feet of water), I need a way to control the boat while I bring the anchor aboard and square things away. In fourteen years of really serious and constant anchoring, I can only remember one occasion where I was near my limits, and that was with breaking waves around me. Usually, I have the anchor up quicker than those with a windlass. For what it is worth, I am in better than average, but by no means great, shape for a 52 year old. If you have an anchor locker, a good roller, and gloves, give this a try. Your reward will not only be savings, but a nice uncluttered foredeck that is nice to sleep on. Oh, if the anchor is really slimy, I do let it out and back up to rinse it off. I have to go pretty fast with the Bruce 33, though!
on my H33, and would probably work on your H34, is a good roller where the anchor lives, a HEAVY pair of gloves and the following procedure: When anchoring, I simply lower the anchor, and then back down to set scope. If the wind or the tide are sufficient, I will lay out all the desired scope before returning to the cockpit. Otherwise, I do it in stages. To retrieve the anchor, I simply open the anchor locker, and SIT on the back edge, with my feet braced on the aft legs of the pulpit. I lean forward and grab the chain or the line with both hands, and then just lean back.The pull is horizontal, not vertical. Up comes a little more than two feet. I lean forward and reposition my hands, and up come two more. This has worked in quite strong wind and current, and I anchor on mostly chain, now 1/4 inch HT, but 5/16 PC, previously. And, I frequently anchor in fifty feet, with my chain and 33 pound Bruce. If you use rode, it HAS to be at least 5/8 inch to get a good grip. Anything smaller makes this routine job pretty difficult. But this rocking forward and backward motion is like rowing, and quite easy and very strong. If I have a problem, such as in breaking out a really stuck anchor, I lead a line back to my mast mounted halyard winch and proceed. If the wind is really high, I put my engine in gear at the lowest idle possible, engage my autopilot and take its remote forward. I don't need the remote to control the direction while raising the anchor. The engine takes the load off the rode, but there is enough to keep the boat going straight. But, once the anchor is off the bottom (remember, I might be in 50 feet of water), I need a way to control the boat while I bring the anchor aboard and square things away. In fourteen years of really serious and constant anchoring, I can only remember one occasion where I was near my limits, and that was with breaking waves around me. Usually, I have the anchor up quicker than those with a windlass. For what it is worth, I am in better than average, but by no means great, shape for a 52 year old. If you have an anchor locker, a good roller, and gloves, give this a try. Your reward will not only be savings, but a nice uncluttered foredeck that is nice to sleep on. Oh, if the anchor is really slimy, I do let it out and back up to rinse it off. I have to go pretty fast with the Bruce 33, though!
J
Jim Ewing
Ditto on Tim's method
I've got a h37.5 with my working anchor being a 44lb Delta on 50' of chain and a couple of hundred feet of 5/16 nylon. I use a similar method to Tim's (although I'm usually in shallower water...). One thing to remember though is that you're not going to be in a hurry (at least in most situations) until the anchor breaks free. I'll bring the boat up to the anchor (Usually by hand unless there's a really whipping wind or strong current) then get ready to break it free and sail off. Once the anchor's off the bottom I get it up to near the surface ASAP (With the windlass usually) and then go get the boat going the direction I want. This gives the muck a chance to wash off. Once I'm happy with my course I set the AP and go finish up stowing the anchor. Jim "Propsect"
I've got a h37.5 with my working anchor being a 44lb Delta on 50' of chain and a couple of hundred feet of 5/16 nylon. I use a similar method to Tim's (although I'm usually in shallower water...). One thing to remember though is that you're not going to be in a hurry (at least in most situations) until the anchor breaks free. I'll bring the boat up to the anchor (Usually by hand unless there's a really whipping wind or strong current) then get ready to break it free and sail off. Once the anchor's off the bottom I get it up to near the surface ASAP (With the windlass usually) and then go get the boat going the direction I want. This gives the muck a chance to wash off. Once I'm happy with my course I set the AP and go finish up stowing the anchor. Jim "Propsect"
Justin's idea.
Justin's idea sounds like mine except I recommend several blocks and not carabeeners as line leads (less friction). These could even be cheap-- they do not have to hold the true load of the anchor and don't get used much. If they break it is no catastrophe. Thanks for the confirmation, Justin. JC 2
Justin's idea sounds like mine except I recommend several blocks and not carabeeners as line leads (less friction). These could even be cheap-- they do not have to hold the true load of the anchor and don't get used much. If they break it is no catastrophe. Thanks for the confirmation, Justin. JC 2
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