Sigma drive flex coupler

NYSail

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Jan 6, 2006
3,064
Beneteau 423 Mt. Sinai, NY
Hello all

Hope the winter is keeping all busy with boat projects!

love to hear any experience with the sigma drive flexible coupling. I watched a video on the product and seems like a good thing.


thanks
Greg
s/v Souleil
 
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Dec 4, 2023
82
Hunter 44 Portsmouth
I can't recommend it enough. Everything about the Sigmadrive is extremely well thought out and it is a serious upgrade to straight couplings that are kind of lacking and can be prone to trouble (IMO).

One of the coolest things about the Sigmadrive that I don't often see advertised is that they give you extra tapped threads in the tapered coupling that allow you to take out the clamping screws and thread them into the separate holes in order to break the tapered coupling apart from the bearing housing. Again, it's all really well thought out.

If you pick one up, make sure to work with customer service when placing your order. You will need extra space behind your transmission coupling flange and your shaft gland. The Sigmadrive takes up more length than a standard straight coupler.
 
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NYSail

.
Jan 6, 2006
3,064
Beneteau 423 Mt. Sinai, NY
Did you notice less vibration/ noise?

and yes…. Looks like a hardy piece! How does it attach to the shaft? Is it just compression? I saw there was no key involved with the design.

thanks
Greg
s/v Souleil
 
Dec 4, 2023
82
Hunter 44 Portsmouth
I notice far less vibration and maybe somewhat less noise. There isn't less noise inherently due to the coupling, it's just less noise due to less vibration from the shaft coupling. The benefits you see will depend on how good your shaft is aligned currently.

1709300596494.png


There is no key, which I think tends to scare people, but the connection is very, very strong. It uses a collar that has an ~1/8" cut machined through it so that it can clamp. If you zoom into the section view above you can see the cut in the collar. The collar is machined straight on the inside bore, and fits freely (but without slop) over the prop shaft. The outside of the collar has a precision taper machined into it that mates up with a taper on the inside of the body of the Sigmadrive. Six or so machine screws are used to slowly tighten a flange on the outside of the shaft collar into the Sigmadrive body, pulling the matching tapers together and applying a very strong clamping pressure on the shaft.

The beauty of this system is that it's not only strong, but it will come apart for maintenance a whole lot easier than a straight coupling that has seized itself in place. Like I mentioned earlier, when you want to disassemble, you remove the clamp screws and install them in tapped holes that are already machined into the collar. When you tighten the screws, they apply pressure to the body which pushes the taper apart. It's a really slick system.

I spoke to the engineer that designed the system when I bought mine. He did his PhD work on hydraulic shaft clamping mechanisms for us on ice breaking ships. The Sigmadrive works on the same principle, just using screws to bring the taper together instead of hydraulics. He also mentioned that design behind the bearing itself is taken from helicopter rotor connections.

The key in a straight shaft coupling is really just there for back up in case the fit between the bore and the shaft isn't great. The key connection will eventually destroy itself with forward/reverse if there's slop in the connection. It isn't meant to be the primary load path for transmitting torque.

We had a long discussion on this forum about this a couple months ago. Some people swear by their straight coupling and that's fine. My 2 cents is that they tend to work until they don't, then they become a major pain in the ass. They are hard to do major repairs on since the bore is customed machined to the shaft in a machine shop. If you're in a remote location, you need to have access to a machine shop that specializes in this kind of work and the shaft needs to come out of the boat for fitting. You might be able to cobble something together with a local machine shop and some precision measurements of the shaft with the shaft still on the boat, but it's just kind of sketchy. Sigmadrive doesn't rely on any precision fits to clamp.
 
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Dec 15, 2019
138
Hunter 49 San Diego
How much extra space does the unit need between the transmission flange and the shaft? It looks like it might be an inch or more.
 
Jan 7, 2011
4,789
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
What do they cost? Roughly?

Website seems to need me to call to get a quote…I just want to know order of magnitude /or boat bucks needed.

Greg
 
Dec 4, 2023
82
Hunter 44 Portsmouth
if I remember right, the unit itself runs around $800. Sometimes an adapter plate is needed (I needed one) - that’s around $200.
Figure all in one boat buck.

Here’s a picture I snapped of mine installed with the adapter plate. I wouldn’t go for any less clearance than this or you won’t be able to take it apart while the boat is in the water. Mine has the bare minimum of clearance available for in-water disassembly.
 

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Oct 26, 2010
1,905
Hunter 40.5 Beaufort, SC
Thanks so much for the first had experience and picture @American_Mainsail. Price seems reasonable. I may look into this in the near future. I have plenty of room from the current flange to the PSS shaft seal. Can these be reasonably installed while in the water?
 
Dec 4, 2023
82
Hunter 44 Portsmouth
Glad I could help! I installed mine in the water, but be very, very careful. You could potentially sink your boat if the prop shaft clears the seal and slips out of the back of the boat. The clearance between the bearing and shaft seal is important because you need enough space to slide the prop shaft back in order to accommodate the installation of the Sigmadrive. For me, this meant sliding the shaft back far enough that it was exciting.

I put a rag around my prop shaft, then installed two quality hose clamps on it so that it wouldn’t slip out of the back of the boat. I used vice grips to grab the hose clamps to move the shaft back and forth. I also used a donut zinc to act as a shaft clamp to help me move the shaft around as well. I have a standard stuffing box and made sure the nut was overly tight so that it firmly gripped the shaft.

Another safety tip is to have a zinc on the shaft outside of the boat that will prevent the shaft from slipping out too far (the zinc hits the cutlass bearing tube before clearing the log). You will have to dive on the boat set the clearance right and make sure the zinc is tight before you start the job. Depending on the way your prop shaft is setup, this might not be possible.

Sizing up a wooden plug that will fit in the shaft log should you lose the worst happen and you lose the shaft might be prudent.

Be very careful and work slowly. That’s the main takeaway. Put every possible thing you can in place in order to prevent from losing the shaft during your install.
 
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Apr 5, 2009
2,819
Catalina '88 C30 tr/bs Oak Harbor, WA
Be very careful and work slowly. That’s the main takeaway. Put every possible thing you can in place in order to prevent from losing the shaft during your install.
One of the simplest ways to prevent the loss of the shaft, is to install your prop zinc close enough to the strut that it will prevent the shaft end from reaching the packing gland. In my case, as long as the anode is within 4" of the strut, the shaft will remain in the packing gland without the shaft flange. I know of several boats who avoided the loss of the shaft this way and one who lost a shaft while stopping his boat in his slip because he did not. [BTW, he now always has a zinc in front of the strut.]