Sick of cam cleats

Paul Brinkley · May 28, 2009

If your cam cleats are not holding, or you have to fiddle with them to get them to work, perhaps they are just worn out. One of mine got to where I had to wiggle the sheet from side to side to get it to grab (spring tension about gone). I replaced it with a new one, and it works fine. They are not very expensive. -Paul

Justin_NSA · May 28, 2009

When all else fails, I replace the existing (Schaefer?) cleats with Harken. I just did the mainsheet and it works so much better.
I still need to install a 6"-8" extension cable from the deck to the cleat but that's another story.

HEINZIR · May 28, 2009

I have never had a problem with the Harken 150 cam cleats that I use for all of my sheets -- main, staysail, jib. I have the "extreme" fairleads that let me sheet from anywhere in the cockpit. Perhaps yours are not mounted with enough of a vertical angle to allow easy cleating?

I do not care for clam cleats for lines that are frequently adjusted. They are hard to release when under load. The plastic ones slip and wear out quickly under any load as well. I use aluminum clam cleats for my topping lift and Cunningham controls.

An alternative to regular cam cleats is the Spinlock PXR cleat. It is kind of a cross between a rope clutch and a cam cleat. I use PXRs for my halyards that are led to the cockpit.

MrBill_FLL · May 28, 2009

cam cleats, not rope cluches? right...

I do have clutches and teak 'risers' on my cam cleats, no problems, other than the spring wearing out, so I replaced them.

maybe its the line....what type and thickness line are you using?

my setup:
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h169/ftldiver2/ElliotKeySailing/P1000548.jpg

(the clutches are for the halyards - (only) -The lazy jib sheet is in the cam cleat)

Sumner · May 28, 2009

HEINZIR said:
I have never had a problem with the Harken 150 cam cleats ...........

I googled the 150 Harken's and found a couple different types. Is there a particular one you are using or does is depend on the situation.

The other problem we are having is that the cleat on the main sheet block slips sometimes..........

.............It will usually set the first time we snap the line into it, but sometimes you have to play with it a little. Either the rope is worn or the cleat or both. From the picture what do you guys think.

Thanks,

Sum

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walt · May 28, 2009

I only have trouble with the sheet poping out on the port side and its mostly when using the Genoa. Ive seen a few boats with the cam cleats raised like Mr. Bills picture.

I just recently replaced my port side cam cleat with a larger Ronstan cleat. It sits higher than the Harken one that was on there so Im hoping this solves my poping out problem. Havent tried it out yet however.. Some pain to install as the mounting holes were wider than stock so had to drill a new hole (including the inside liner for the nut and backing washer access).

Sumner, I cant tell if your main sheet cleat is bent up but my boom vang cleat was and taking it apart and straightening the metal helped mine considerably.

MrBill_FLL · May 28, 2009

Sum, I'd flip the line end for end as a start. (hows you're knots? lol! )

you can also adjust the cam angle farther down... a little.,
-But I'd not make it level, too hard to release when you really need it. you can also look at the internal springs, and you may also be able to buy just the cam cleat..

often its just not getting a good bite on the line. raising the cam on the cabin is a well worth the effort. west marine sells the teak...I have the harken's, and one metal one on the daggerboard, I want to replace it but its not leaking and works...

caguy · May 28, 2009

I with plastic cams like that they get worn. I was able to fix my slippage by sharpening the teeth with small triangular file.

Here is the set up for my genoa track, that I which I am very pleased.

HEINZIR · May 28, 2009

I had thought there was only one Harken 150 cam cleat

but now I see they have a double spring model. Haven't tried that. Harken sells several kinds of wedges and risers to facilitate line entry angles. You can double up on the wedges to get an even steeper angle, or make your own teak risers.

The Harken cleats don't usually wear on the bearing surfaces. The triple row of ball bearings make them much easier to engage and release than most other brands. They can and will bind if the mounting screws are too tight -- make sure that is not your problem. Weak springs or missing ball bearings can also cause problems. You can buy replacement parts here:
http://www.apsltd.com/c-308-harkencamcleatsaccessories.aspx

APS is a great source for hard to find small boat hardware.

Sumner · May 28, 2009

MrBill_FLL said:
............... (hows you're knots? lol! )...........

Hey I was in the Navy and the Boy Scouts, so I have some of the knots mastered :dance:.

I'll try reversing the line and maybe also the filing of the teeth. If I wanted new line exactly what kind of line am I looking for for this application?

Thanks,

Sum

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Gregg9020 · May 28, 2009

Re: I see one difference

For my cleats, I use a couple of spinlocks. They are great!!!! I have only one issue, and that is my port one is not always ready to pop out. I use it mainly for the furler, so not a huge issue. Try Spinlocks. They are pretty good and not too much doe$$$$$

Timo42 · May 29, 2009

I agree with Oreana, new sheets make everything work better. Sum, that line looks worn out, it's not too expensive to replace the sheets and halyards, especially if you learn to splice the eyes yourself. New line feels better to the hand, works better in any type of cleat, and you can get different colors for each line, important for inexperienced crew. I used solid color lines for everything but halyards, you don't want those released by accident, and it's far easier for a novice to "pull on the green line" than to "Harden up the main sheet" and better than "No, not that one!!!"

I would recommend Sta-Set, from New England Ropes, that's what I have, and am happy with it, I have Sta-Set X for the main halyard, but that's overkill, and not as easy to use, Samson makes good line, the stuff at Home Depot may look the same, but it's not!! I have 5/16" line for everything but the mainsheet (3/8", cause you handle that one all the time), the jib downhaul (1/8", doesn't need to be any larger), and the spinnaker sheets (1/4", to cut the weight) Tim

Sumner · May 29, 2009

Timo42 said:
I agree with Oreana, new sheets make everything work better. Sum, that line looks worn out, it's not too expensive to replace the sheets and halyards, especially if you learn to splice the eyes yourself. New line feels better to the hand, works better in any type of cleat, and you can get different colors for each line, important for inexperienced crew. I used solid color lines for everything but halyards, you don't want those released by accident, and it's far easier for a novice to "pull on the green line" than to "Harden up the main sheet" and better than "No, not that one!!!"
I would recommend Sta-Set, from New England Ropes, that's what I have, and am happy with it, I have Sta-Set X for the main halyard, but that's overkill, and not as easy to use, Samson makes good line, the stuff at Home Depot may look the same, but it's not!! I have 5/16" line for everything but the mainsheet (3/8", cause you handle that one all the time), the jib downhaul (1/8", doesn't need to be any larger), and the spinnaker sheets (1/4", to cut the weight) Tim

Thanks that is what I was looking for. I'll follow up on that,

Sum

Sick of cam cleats

GregS

Paul Brinkley

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Justin_NSA

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GregS

HEINZIR

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MrBill_FLL

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Sumner

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walt

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