Shurflo 2.8 gal fresh water pump not working

[Hermit Scott]

http://www.amazon.com/SHURflo-2088-422-444-Classic-Potable-Water/dp/B0006GK5NA

That is the link to the pump I have that stopped working. I took it apart, it looks clean no burns, brushes still plenty left. Bearings are fine, pump still pumps by hand, but the motor won't spin. There is a little postage stamp sized board hooked up to one of the brushes. Is this some kind of fuse that I can replace?
I installed the 3.5 gallon pump, bolted right up hoses hooked right up. But I nicked a pressurized water line with a sanding wheel when I installed new through hulls 3 years ago. The lower pressure pump didn't bust it but since I installed a higher pressure pump...I now have a nice leak to repair.

 

[Don12364]

You didn't say, but did you use a voltmeter to verify that power is getting to the pump and again, with the pump disconnected, if there is any continuity through the motor?

The small square box on the front of the pump contains a microswitch operated by a plunger and return spring to switch the motor off when the pressure reaches the setting on the label. Did you check the continuity of this with the meter, operating it by hand? The plunger may be stuck in the full pressure position, i.e. off. Or the microswitch could be duff. Mine developed a crack so I now carry a spare.
If yours is US you will need a V3 micro switch - no need for the lever or roller version but these will do if you unclip the actuator. Get the one with a 16 amp rating.

 

[Steve Dion]

Some of the pump mfg. will check out the pump and rebuild them for you for a very reasonable price. I would call the mfg to see what they change. You can sometimes have money by having them check them out before you spend any money and then having a failure within a short period of time.

 

[Hermit Scott]

I bypassed the pressure switch. I was hooking the pump wires coming off of the armature directly to the battery.
I saw that little postage stamp sized card in there and thought it might be a common thing that breaks. It is the only thing that could stop voltage from getting to the brushes.

 

[Don12364]

If you are sure that both brushes were in contact with the commutator then it sounds like a burned out armature.
Some armatures have a non resettable thermal cutout within the windings.
Either way the motor has had it.
As a double check it is still worth putting a meter on ohms with the probes across either side of the commutator and working round the various segments. Any open circuits will confirm it is dead.

 

[Hermit Scott]

If you are sure that both brushes were in contact with the commutator then it sounds like a burned out armature.
Some armatures have a non resettable thermal cutout within the windings.
Either way the motor has had it.
As a double check it is still worth putting a meter on ohms with the probes across either side of the commutator and working round the various segments. Any open circuits will confirm it is dead.

I left this pump at the boat. Next time I go down I will pick it up and we can revisit this. Thanks